Builds Cara the white '84 FJ60! (2 Viewers)

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Been in Seattle about two months now. Hanging out in various groups IRL and online has showed me Seattle has a pretty great Cruiser community 😊

In the last month, I tackled lots of small things that had been on my to-do list for a long time:

Here's my new antenna at a jaunty angle in my tiny garage:

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A pool of water siting behind the quarter panel, and the gap there... pretty annoying.

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Also ran over to Mr @NookShneer's wonderful shop to get his assistance replacing my battery terminals and wires with much thicker, built stuff (1/0 gauge wire and military terminals). My electrical engineering self had been bothered by the old junky OEM terminals for so long, having nicely built and shielded stuff feels so much better. I did consider replacing the fusible link, but mine seemed in decent shape. If I ever go down the dual-battery route though, then it'll go and be replaced with some resettable breaker.

In total, replaced:
  • Positive wire from battery to starter
  • Positive wire from battery to fusible link
  • GND wire from battery to frame
  • GND wire from block/starter to frame
  • GND wire from engine mount to frame
Love having the local folks... can't wait to help out others and pay it forward ☺️

Brought to you by Yota Oil Filters - https://yotaoilfilters.com!

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(Also if anyone wants to buy @NookShneer's old Suburban, I think he's still looking for takers 😉)
 
Scored a deal on 33" tires (33x10.5r15 KO2s, replacing 31"s) from a local Cruiserhead and had them mounted on the truck today! I think they look great (other then my already-present rear sag), just need to get a 2" OME lift to really round things out. Haven't put too many miles on yet, but really liking the rubber overdrive on the interstate, and need to get used to the clutch engagement/movement in first gear mall-crawling again.


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Here's a before from when the 31"s went on six months ago:

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And here's an after (lacking the roof rack):

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Finally finished this project, which I don't think I have posted about on here yet. I started working on these new wood interior panels in May 2020, and got distracted by blowing my piston rings, moving, the pandemic, etc... but finally finished them over the last two weeks.

They're pieces of plywood . I tried a variety of mounting techniques, and ended up just going with screws going into U-nuts (including some experiments with glaring the plastic rivets onto the plywood (which didn't hold), and magnets that didn't pan out... although I still think it's possible). The designs were first drawn in pencil by projecting images onto the plywood, then burned into the panel using a wood-burning pen, then a few coats of polycrylic. They were California-inspired, ironic since I have since left. Also put in Rockford Fosgate R1525x2 speakers for my eventual head unit install.

The first is of course a take on the Great Wave Off Kanagawa, and the second is a view of the Golden Gate Bridge from Baker Beach.

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kenavt said:
Finally finished this project, which I don't think I have posted about on here yet. I started working on these new wood interior panels in May 2020, and got distracted by blowing my piston rings, moving, the pandemic, etc... but finally finished them over the last two weeks.

They're pieces of plywood . I tried a variety of mounting techniques, and ended up just going with screws going into U-nuts (including some experiments with glaring the plastic rivets onto the plywood (which didn't hold), and magnets that didn't pan out... although I still think it's possible). The designs were first drawn in pencil by projecting images onto the plywood, then burned into the panel using a wood-burning pen, then a few coats of polycrylic. They were California-inspired, ironic since I have since left. Also put in Rockford Fosgate R1525x2 speakers for my eventual head unit install.

The first is of course a take on the Great Wave Off Kanagawa, and the second is a view of the Golden Gate Bridge from Baker Beach.

View attachment 2982653


View attachment 2982652
Click to expand...
Gorgeous work man
 
kenavt said:
Finally finished this project, which I don't think I have posted about on here yet. I started working on these new wood interior panels in May 2020, and got distracted by blowing my piston rings, moving, the pandemic, etc... but finally finished them over the last two weeks.

They're pieces of plywood . I tried a variety of mounting techniques, and ended up just going with screws going into U-nuts (including some experiments with glaring the plastic rivets onto the plywood (which didn't hold), and magnets that didn't pan out... although I still think it's possible). The designs were first drawn in pencil by projecting images onto the plywood, then burned into the panel using a wood-burning pen, then a few coats of polycrylic. They were California-inspired, ironic since I have since left. Also put in Rockford Fosgate R1525x2 speakers for my eventual head unit install.

The first is of course a take on the Great Wave Off Kanagawa, and the second is a view of the Golden Gate Bridge from Baker Beach.

View attachment 2982653


View attachment 2982652
Click to expand...
Those are beautiful! Almost makes me add something similar to my drawer fronts (like I don’t already have a 100 projects too many!)
 
I did two quick, easy things I did the last couple of weeks. The first was putting in new parking lamp lights, since I realized one was out. Just swung by O'Reilly's and picked up new generic bulbs. Feel better at night with all of my lights working now. 😂

The second was fixing my rheostat (interior light dimmer) by swapping out the printed circuit board with another one from a 1989 Camry from a pick-n-pull for $10 (per Dimmer switch / Rheostat repair - cheap - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dimmer-switch-rheostat-repair-cheap.628006/, which is a great writeup). And I even have a knob instead of just the metal from the potentiometer sticking out! That combined with the LED interior light upgrade means my interior lighting situation feels just about done.

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changingground said:
Those are beautiful! Almost makes me add something similar to my drawer fronts (like I don’t already have a 100 projects too many!)
Click to expand...
You should if you have the time! It was lovely and fun to do, and I get a lot of compliments on it. But it is time intensive.
 
My big project the last week has been rebuilding the rear drums. The rear left wheel cylinder has been leaking badly the last month, and probably before that in hindsight, as occasionally I would have to top off brake fluid, although that could have been the master cylinder. Seemed like a good opportunity to learn how drum brakes work, learn more about wrenching and the truck, and improve it all at the same time.

I started with ordering lots of parts off RockAuto. I went with OEM (Advics) wheel cylinders, and non-OEM everything else (shoes, hardware, adjusters). Specific part numbers at the end. Then I borrowed a floor jack (thanks @red66toy!) to cram my truck into the small garage space I have... lost my passenger mirror driving in forwards, and barely enough room to take off those 10.5" tires! I highly recommend ChrisFixIt's video on rebuilding drums, I followed that religiously and its quite good even if the 60-series drum spring arrangement is different. I didn't use any special brake tools, although I would consider investing in some for the big main upper spring and for hitting the starwheel on the adjuster through the small window.

Rather worryingly, all four of my brake shoes were cracked like this. That can't have been good.

IMG_2220.jpeg


I first tore apart the rear passenger drum one day, then went to put it back together the next day and realized... the brake shoe hold-down pin as part of the AC Delco RockAuto kit was too short. I went to O'Reilly's, Autozone, NAPA (closed), Advanced: everyone's FJ60 drum hardware kits had shoe hold-down pins that were too short! I eventually measured the pre-existing one (it was 2 21/64", whereas the AC Delco one was 1 47/64", see pic below), did a lot of Googling, and managed to track down Duralast H1108 as a compatible correct part. Was able to chase that to NAPA UP80708, which is included as part of NAPA UP80412 which also had new shoe hold-down springs. Ran out to NAPA, picked up that kit, and threw the shoes and springs back on without thinking... only to realize that I left the adjuster for last after springs which doesn't work at all! If you're doing this for the first time, be careful about what order you go in!

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After the rear passenger drum took a few days, the rear driver drum took ~90 minutes.

IMG_2246 3.jpeg


Then I figured I might as well get the drums re-machined (the shop ended up saying one side was a tad warped), had that done, bled the wheel cylinders while that was happening, then threw the drums and the tires on. For the adjusters, I think I followed the FSM process (Adjusting the rear drum from the back, need help. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/adjusting-the-rear-drum-from-the-back-need-help.1222217/#post-13303705). I loosened them fully so the shoes didn't drag at all whatsoever, which I'm pretty sure took more then five notches). The rear driver's side self-adjuster was definitely tighter on the star wheel then the passenger side, for whatever reason. Trying to poke the star wheel to get them loose took me ages to get the feel for... if/when I have to do this again, I'm going to look into buying the right tools if I can get them from Harbor Freight for under $10. I got lucky searching YouTube and found this video of someone doing it on an indentical drum brake, and just copied their screwdriver position through the window and eventually got it. https://youtu.be/vPiJHIMWvIA

I then set the truck down and went for a test drive. I was worried I may have loosened them too much, which was somewhat validated by the test drive as my e-brake had no real resistance. I also noticed my brake pedal was pretty spongey and I just didn't have that much brake force, which was more worrying. Pumping the brakes brings some pressure back, so I was hoping it was air int he lines. I've done more bleeding since then (went through half a liter of brake fluid), and I think it has improved marginally, but.... My e-brakes also don't really work either. I'm going to go for a longer drive today (more then 5 min/1 mile) and maybe the adjusters will settle/tighten in and things will sort themselves out 🤞🏻


Parts I ordered:
  • 2x Advics WCT011 wheel cylinders (I assumed these were OEM since they are Advics)
  • 1x AC Delco 18K655 (CANNOT recommend this kit since the brake shoe hold-down pins were way too short, although otherwise the kit was good)
  • 1x FVP FH12548, 1x FH12549 self-adjusters (left/right). These seemed fine.
  • 1x Bosch BS549 brake shoes, these also seem fine. They have the pin pushed it already which is a nice touch, one less thing to do.
  • 1x NAPA UP 80412 brake shoe hold-down hardware kit, which had the correct length brake shoe hold-down pins. It also came with extra springs and hardware just in case.
 
Last edited:
kenavt said:
My big project the last week has been rebuilding the rear drums. The rear left wheel cylinder has been leaking badly the last month, and probably before that in hindsight, as occasionally I would have to top off brake fluid, although that could have been the master cylinder. Seemed like a good opportunity to learn how drum brakes work, learn more about wrenching and the truck, and improve it all at the same time.

I started with ordering lots of parts off RockAuto. I went with OEM (Advics) wheel cylinders, and non-OEM everything else (shoes, hardware, adjusters). Specific part numbers at the end. Then I borrowed a floor jack (thanks @red66toy!) to cram my truck into the small garage space I have... lost my passenger mirror driving in forwards, and barely enough room to take off those 10.5" tires! I highly recommend ChrisFixIt's video on rebuilding drums, I followed that religiously and its quite good even if the 60-series drum spring arrangement is different. I didn't use any special brake tools, although I would consider investing in some for the big main upper spring and for hitting the starwheel on the adjuster through the small window.

Rather worryingly, all four of my brake shoes were cracked like this. That can't have been good.

View attachment 2990852

I first tore apart the rear passenger drum one day, then went to put it back together the next day and realized... the brake shoe hold-down pin as part of the AC Delco RockAuto kit was too short. I went to O'Reilly's, Autozone, NAPA (closed), Advanced: everyone's FJ60 drum hardware kits had shoe hold-down pins that were too short! I eventually measured the pre-existing one (it was 2 21/64", whereas the AC Delco one was 1 47/64", see pic below), did a lot of Googling, and managed to track down Duralast H1108 as a compatible correct part. Was able to chase that to NAPA UP80708, which is included as part of NAPA UP80412 which also had new shoe hold-down springs. Ran out to NAPA, picked up that kit, and threw the shoes and springs back on without thinking... only to realize that I left the adjuster for last after springs which doesn't work at all! If you're doing this for the first time, be careful about what order you go in!

View attachment 2990849

After the rear passenger drum took a few days, the rear driver drum took ~90 minutes.

View attachment 2990850

Then I figured I might as well get the drums re-machined (the shop ended up saying one side was a tad warped), had that done, bled the wheel cylinders while that was happening, then threw the drums and the tires on. For the adjusters, I think I followed the FSM process (Adjusting the rear drum from the back, need help. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/adjusting-the-rear-drum-from-the-back-need-help.1222217/#post-13303705). I loosened them fully so the shoes didn't drag at all whatsoever, which I'm pretty sure took more then five notches). The rear driver's side self-adjuster was definitely tighter on the star wheel then the passenger side, for whatever reason. Trying to poke the star wheel to get them loose took me ages to get the feel for... if/when I have to do this again, I'm going to look into buying the right tools if I can get them from Harbor Freight for under $10. I got lucky searching YouTube and found this video of someone doing it on an indentical drum brake, and just copied their screwdriver position through the window and eventually got it.

I then set the truck down and went for a test drive. I was worried I may have loosened them too much, which was somewhat validated by the test drive as my e-brake had no real resistance. I also noticed my brake pedal was pretty spongey and I just didn't have that much brake force, which was more worrying. Pumping the brakes brings some pressure back, so I was hoping it was air int he lines. I've done more bleeding since then (went through half a liter of brake fluid), and I think it has improved marginally, but.... My e-brakes also don't really work either. I'm going to go for a longer drive today (more then 5 min/1 mile) and maybe the adjusters will settle/tighten in and things will sort themselves out 🤞🏻


Parts I ordered:
  • 2x Advics WCT011 wheel cylinders (I assumed these were OEM since they are Advics)
  • 1x AC Delco 18K655 (CANNOT recommend this kit since the brake shoe hold-down pins were way too short, although otherwise the kit was good)
  • 1x FVP FH12548, 1x FH12549 self-adjusters (left/right). These seemed fine.
  • 1x Bosch BS549 brake shoes, these also seem fine. They have the pin pushed it already which is a nice touch, one less thing to do.
  • 1x NAPA UP 80412 brake shoe hold-down hardware kit, which had the correct length brake shoe hold-down pins. It also came with extra springs and hardware just in case.
Click to expand...

Timmy is a great resource. Cheesy at times, but there’s a ton of great info on his channel. He started with 3rd gen 4runners, which my son drives, so I’ve spent more than my share of time looking at his processes. He’s a FD engineer, I think, so is steeped in the practice of doing it right.
 
changingground said:
Timmy is a great resource. Cheesy at times, but there’s a ton of great info on his channel. He started with 3rd gen 4runners, which my son drives, so I’ve spent more than my share of time looking at his processes. He’s a FD engineer, I think, so is steeped in the practice of doing it right.
Click to expand...
I'm going to have to watch more of his videos, only started with this one. But I really liked this one and it came clutch just as I needed it! What is a FD engineer?
 
Also the slack adjusters on the rear drums gets tightened to the correct position by simply cranking up and down on the emergency brake several times. If your emergency brake isn't working the good news is that the cable is still available from toyota. Check your bell cranks first though to make sure they aren't sticking.

Also there is an issue with some aftermarket brakes where because of their dimensions they move the position of the brake adjuster lever and cause it to OVERTIGHTEN the adjusters. They can do this to the point that your drum brakes will drag hard and overheat. this will cause vibrations during your drive at a certain speed to the point that you may feel like you just hit a washboarded road! There is a thread about this here:

rear brakes over adjusting..... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-brakes-over-adjusting.327957/page-4 the solution is on pg 3 post 44.
 
g-man said:
Also the slack adjusters on the rear drums gets tightened to the correct position by simply cranking up and down on the emergency brake several times. If your emergency brake isn't working the good news is that the cable is still available from toyota. Check your bell cranks first though to make sure they aren't sticking.

Also there is an issue with some aftermarket brakes where because of their dimensions they move the position of the brake adjuster lever and cause it to OVERTIGHTEN the adjusters. They can do this to the point that your drum brakes will drag hard and overheat. this will cause vibrations during your drive at a certain speed to the point that you may feel like you just hit a washboarded road! There is a thread about this here:

rear brakes over adjusting..... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-brakes-over-adjusting.327957/page-4 the solution is on pg 3 post 44.
Click to expand...
I think my e-brakes have improved a bit since I posted about this last week. Still not quite as good as they were before though. Maybe I should have looked at replacing my bell cranks.

I spent a while talking to @ntdb about this problem while I was doing the brakes and he pointed me to that thread. Fingers crossed that I don't run into the issue and have to open up the drums again 🤞🏻 Thanks for the info about how it manifests, that was unclear to me.
 
Tackled a bogeyman of mine and adjusted my valves yesterday. Previous times I've adjusted valves on other vehicles have went poorly, so I was determined to take my time and do it right this time. The engine's PO told me they needed adjustment and I gave it a shot last May but felt like they had been pretty loud. I don't have a good point of comparison and I know these trucks sound like old sewing machines, but... they seemed pretty loud still to me.

It seems like there's a few schools of thought on how to do them. I really enjoy @BenjaminCA's video with @orangefj45 just bumping the engine and doing the valves in turns https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mT3z3BxsSyg, but I wanted to minimize the number of crankshaft revolutions I had to do.

So I went with the method and chart explained by @2mbb in right way to do it wrong - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/right-way-to-do-it-wrong.276106/#post-4300965. I went on a test drive to warm things up and pick up a paint marker to mark valves. Then I set TDC on compression stroke from a suggestion and photos below from @HemiAlex by rotating the flywheel (pulled the flywheel cover), and pulling the distributor cap off and seeing when the rotor was pointing to cylinders 3/4. Then I went through and did group A, then group B. Then rotated the flywheel/crankshaft 360 degrees to get the distributor to rotate 180 degrees to have it on TDC on exhaust stroke, and did group C, then group D. Most of my exhaust valves were good. My intake valves were a bit loose, for reasons I'll explain below.

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I thought I would need a buddy for this, since you kinda need three hands to operate the wrench, flathead, and feeler gauges. But I was able to do it with just two hands by balancing the feeler gauge on the AI rail, and the flathead keeping the wrench roughly pinned on the jam nut. A delicate balancing act, made even worse by the yoga I needed to do to get to the rear valves (ended up putting my left foot on the passenger-side fender and my knee on the radiator support).

IMG_2270.jpeg


I think last time I set my intake clearances at 0.014", based on a blurry picture I got from the engine PO, saying it was from the car's PO, that the engine builder ground the cams to set the lash differently. Since they were loud, I figured they were loose, and it was unclear to me why you'd want to open up the intake valves... so I went with 0.008" (OEM/stock) this time instead, figuring that if it was too tight I would notice and loosen them back up again. It took me a while to get to the second set of B, so then I went 0.001" or 0.002" over since the valves had cooled down.

custom-cam-grind 2.PNG


I put everything back on and went for a test ride, and I have a bit less valve noise and I think a bit more power 🎉🎉🎉 Doing this so soon after I put on 33"s makes it a bit harder to tell (same with the brake changes). I have always had 1-2 less MPG with this engine then I did with the original 2F (before tire diameter changes, and even after changing tires and re-calculating mileage), which has been bothering me, so hopefully this helps with that too.
 
kenavt said:
I think my e-brakes have improved a bit since I posted about this last week. Still not quite as good as they were before though. Maybe I should have looked at replacing my bell cranks.

I spent a while talking to @ntdb about this problem while I was doing the brakes and he pointed me to that thread. Fingers crossed that I don't run into the issue and have to open up the drums again 🤞🏻 Thanks for the info about how it manifests, that was unclear to me.
Click to expand...
Ironically, while driving new people around and over the harsh bumps on I-5 in SoDo that confused me originally, the washboarding started happening on my left side. Went away under throttle, or if the weight of the truck was more to the right side. I tried loosening the adjusters on the spot, but still don’t have the hang of that and it only helped a little bit. Time to do my homework and read that thread and tear into the drums again.

Interestingly, the side that started washboarding - the self-adjuster lever was less loose then the other side. It didn’t feel loose at all, whereas the not problematic one feels rather loose.
 
kenavt said:
Ironically, while driving new people around and over the harsh bumps on I-5 in SoDo that confused me originally, the washboarding started happening on my left side. Went away under throttle, or if the weight of the truck was more to the right side. I tried loosening the adjusters on the spot, but still don’t have the hang of that and it only helped a little bit. Time to do my homework and read that thread and tear into the drums again.

Interestingly, the side that started washboarding - the self-adjuster lever was less loose then the other side. It didn’t feel loose at all, whereas the not problematic one feels rather loose.
Click to expand...

I went to tear into the drums today and realized that the lugnuts on the rear left side were very, very loose. Borrowed a torque wrench and tightened up the lug nuts to 101 ft-lbs per the FSM I have, went for a test drive and... all seems fine. Time to add a 1/2" drive torque wrench to my shopping list, and not just trust an electric impact 🙄

I'll keep an eye out for the drums misbehaving still. I probably have about 60 miles on the truck since the drums rebuild.

@red66toy commented the truck seems pretty quiet at idle with the hood up. The valve noise has definitely went down a bit. Thinking I might have a small exhaust leak somewhere now, maybe EGR.
 
@kenavt
What is a FD engineer?
The individual who drives and operates the engine on scene among many other things.
 
kenavt said:
I'm going to have to watch more of his videos, only started with this one. But I really liked this one and it came clutch just as I needed it! What is a FD engineer?
Click to expand...
Fire Department position responsible for the upkeep of the engines, or so I’ve been told.
 
Noticed two odd things going on in my engine bay... the alternator pulley was wobbling slightly and making a small noise, and the smog pump pulley was wobbling even more. I tightened up the alternator belt a bunch, and noise and wobble went away there. I tightened up the smog pump/water pump pulley, then that started squealing and wobbling even more and I couldn't get it to stop. I figured at some point the smog pump might go because my power steering pumps seemed leaky, so... going to blame it on that. (cracking it open later showed a lot of debris and dust and presence of liquid, so I think this hypothesis is right. means a power steering pump rebuild is in my future, although it has not leaked meaningfully since January when I last topped the cylinder off).

Smog pump rebuild time! I spent a while investigating various resources, took me a while to piece things together. Seems like two options: rebuilding the OEM pump yourself seems possible if you order the right bearings (no carbon vane sources sadly); or, there is at least one shop in SoCal (B-Z Rebuilders | Auto Parts Rebuilt - https://bzrebuilders.com) that will rebuild them for you by mail. I really want the truck running this weekend, so opted to try and start the rebuild myself. Figured I'd tear down the smog pump, pick up bearings from somewhere, throw it back in the truck. If the vanes were broken or looked bad, I'd just pull them out and get around to figuring that out at some future point. Thank goodness for moving from California five months ago and not having to worry about getting correct smog performance come smog time.

I was worried getting the smog pump out would be tricky, but didn't end up being too bad - just had to pull a bunch of air hoses and the belt adjustment bracket.

IMG_2389.jpeg


IMG_2390.jpeg


Rotating the pulley by hand revealed a serious resistance at the same point in every rotation, to the point where I could not rotate it by hand if I took the pulley off. I suspected the front bearing, as I would think a broken vane would prevent 360 degree rotation which was still possible with effort. I impacted off the bolts, cracked it open, and... eventually realized I was not looking at an OEM smog pump. It was missing the bolt holes to make it easy to pull off the plate the bearing is mounted to, to service the vanes. I pulled the big bearing off anyway (the pilot bearing puller rental from O'Reilly is just big enough to do the job for what it's worth), and it shows no boltholes or way to pull off the chamber around the vanes to further tear things down. Also there are only two vanes, whereas I would have expected to see three in an OEM unit.

IMG_2395.jpeg


At that point did some googling and turns out it's a Cardone unit, possibly (probably?) not even the one marked for compatibility with 2F FJ60s. This guy with a C4 Corvette has the same part number markings that I do (Buyer Beware: Reman Smog Pump - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion - https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-tech-performance/3786539-buyer-beware-reman-smog-pump.html#post1591767140), and even documented the procedure for rebuilding it (pictures lost to time), but I don't have presses and his pictures aren't attached and it seems like a s*** unit anyway honestly.

Now I have a big decision! Seems like my choices are either to run a new OEM reman smog pump at the cost of hundreds ($700 from SOR for a top-end quote), hack something together, or run a smog pump delete idler pulley (>$100+), not use my air injection system, and kill my catalytic converter a bit faster. And if I'm going to run a smog pump idler pulley... at that point I feel like I should probably consider doing a full desmog, why not? Ironically I had an idler pulley from the engine PO and gave it away as part of my move to WA.

I am in a cheap mood as of recent, so I'm inclined to run the smog pump idler pulley, sacrificing the long-term catalytic converter health, but not go down the desmog route. Although I did just pass smog nine months ago, throwing it all away now feels like a waste when everything else is running well, plus getting my distributor re-curved. And if the cat goes, I don't have to replace it this time.
 
kenavt said:
and it seems like a s*** unit anyway honestly.
Click to expand...
I have been on this forum for years and didn't realize MUD automatically censors curse words. I'll watch my potty mouth more from now on. 🙂
 
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