Builds Cara the white '84 FJ60! (1 Viewer)

kenavt

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I've never owned a big SUV before, but something about the wonderfully square and '80s wagon look, Instagram, and overlanding just kept FJ60s in my mind. Due to how expensive they've gotten in the last few years plus living in dense San Francisco, I thought I wouldn't own one for a long time. But that didn't stop me from aggressively looking at Craigslist all year (when work wasn't keeping me extremely busy). To my surprise in mid-October, an old white '84 was listed about a mile from me in San Francisco. Within three hours, I had reached out to the owner's friend who had listed it... while tracking down the car's location and biking up to take a look at it, street-parked, myself. The next morning I took a look at it for a few hours with the owner/old lady's old lady friend, and she told me a sad story of how it was the owner's husband, who had died a few months previously of a six-month terminal illness.

The truck itself was in a bit of rough shape. Mechanically it seemed okay (4-wheel-drive high and low worked, would do 65mph on 280), but there are so many other issues - the clearcoat is gone, rust around the windshield, interior was surprisingly filthy, tailgate didn't open, driver's seat belt didn't work, some window cranks didn't work, steering had a lot of play in it (~4 inches), and a lot more. So I told the owner's friend (and the owner who had joined us at this point) that I would sleep on it. I couldn't get it out of my mind - the truck is all I thought about for the next few days. The owner reached out a few days later to say someone else was interested so I needed to jump on it ASAP if I wanted it... and so I did.

Like I said, it mechanically seems somewhat okay. It's a 1984, ~172k miles, no big mods other then a NMO mount, a mysterious red LED on the dash, foglight that don't work, and possibly aftermarket shocks (no lift). The short-term goal is to feel comfortable driving it ~50 miles each way to a safer parking area for storage during weeks that I don't have time to work on it (that's not street-parking in San Francisco). After that, clean up the interior (the seats are absolutely gross, I don't know if they're salvageable) and do enough maintenance to feel comfortable going camping with the girlfriend in Big Sur or Mendocino. By next winter, I want to do the weekend ski run to Tahoe in the cold and wet, sort out the rust, and do a re-paint.

I've done a few odds and ends around the truck in the two months I've owned it, those'll be follow-up when I get around to them this week.

The name Kara doesn't particularly come from anywhere - just a good solid name for a fun truck 😁

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Joined
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I’ve tackled a few nasty seats like that. One with a hot water power wash, and another by taking the seat cover off the frame and running it through the washing machine.
 

OSS

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A new adventure awaits you!
As for that back seat back, it can be cleaned rather easily to look almost like new if you've got a strong wet-dry shop vac available. I got a second bench that I purchased that looked almost like yours and after scrubbing it with soap and water with a brush and vacuuming the fabric as I went along, slowly but surely it looked sparkly clean again. I was amazed. I used Bronner's peppermint Castile soap and water and a scrub brush and worked a small area at a time. Gets tedious- but you CAN clean it up to look nice. Same technique works well for the headliner too, just be gentler with the brush.
 

kenavt

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One of the things I've gotten to is taking the rear bench seats out to give them a wash. I used OxyClean and this carpet spot cleaner from Home Depot, pictures below. I'm not that happy with the results... it was an improvement, but they're still rather gross.

I'm not sure what you mean by a wet-dry shop vac, or how that compares to the carpet spot cleaner I used. I'm considering taking the seat cover off the frame to throw it in the washing machine too, but haven't done that yet (I also want to replace the foam myself at the same time).

First before, then after with the carpet spot cleaner:

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Clip the hog rings off, remove the seat cover and take the wires out that are slid around the bottom perimeter - You’ll need to pull and twist on them with some pliers, but they do come out.

Hand sew up that loose seam before you put it through the laundry. Wash on cold. Run another empty cycle on the machine before you put any clothes back in!
 

John Staton

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Those are disgusting seats. I would buy new covers. Your GF is never going to feel too comfortable sitting on those nasty things, even with slip covers. Looks like a homeless person lived out of the truck for years. Strip out the inside, buy a new carpet kit from DNP (@$300), replace the seat covers....will feel like a new truck. Those couldn't smell good either.
 

kenavt

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I'm way behind on posting in this thread (since I bought the truck in mid-October), so I'm trying to catch up over the holiday break.

Current goals:
My rough goals right now that I need to break down into more achievable smaller chunks:
  • Since I'm gone for the holidays, be able to drive the car ~50 miles to my friend's place for free and safe parking.
    • This didn't end up happening... I managed to find free and safe local parking over the holiday, was a bit worried about making that drive anyway after a local shop discovered oil contamination under the valve cover (more on that in my next post.)
  • Continue working on the interior and mechanicals, and be able to do a short camping trip in February or March.
  • Be able to do a Tahoe ski trip (4+ hours each way driving, plus high elevation and temperature) next winter.

In October and November, I did small bits and ends:
  • Replaced front right headlight that was out with a basic Sylvania bulb from Autozone.
  • Put an OEM gas cap on (from SOR), which nicely cut down on the awkward gas smell around the truck (Page 168 Land Cruiser 60, 62, 80 & 100 Series Factory Gas Tanks)
  • Replaced rear left taillight lens, since it is cracked (I later realized the right one is also, but it's not as bad) with a part from CruiserCorps (Tail Light Lens - Drivers Side - OEM - FJ60, FJ62, BJ 1980-1990).
  • Cleaned up the interior a bit (not just the seats), to no real avail.
    IMG_0234.jpeg
  • Did a bit more looking and poking around, and made a few fun realizations:
    • The muffler has holes in it
    • The tailpipe isn't even attached to the muffler, there's daylight between them
    • The rear handbrake cable looks rusty
    • The transfer case or transmission is leaking like crazy... it's rather gross in there (a bit more on that in the next post, see pic to the right)
  • Changed the oil and oil filter.
    • Only drained about 5.5 liters of oil when i'm pretty sure it'll take 8+ since that's what I put in, so this was rather concerning to me. (next post to talk more about this)
  • Picked up a cheap 3.5mm headphone jack to casette tape adapter from Autozone.
    • The Blaupunkt radio looks original (or at least from the '80s or '90s, contemporary third-party replacement). Looks cool, I want to keep it. [picture here]
    • It looks like the front door speakers work alright! The rear speakers most definitely don't, so that'll be a low-priority project at some point.
  • There's no cap on my coolant reservoir tank! I knew that when I bought it, so I bought an OEM replacement cap from CityRacer (OEM Coolant Overflow Hose with Cap for '78 to '87 Land Cruiser FJ40 and FJ60), only to find out... it's an aftermarket tank with the hoses integrated into the tank, not the cap. Ordered a new aftermarket tank from CruiserCorps (almost the same price as an OEM replacement cap) to swap in at some point when I can do the coolant flush.
    IMG_0308.jpeg
    (Large Coolant Overflow Bottle / Tank with Bracket FJ40, FJ45, FJ55, Fj60, FJ62, FJ80, FJ Cruiser, BJ 1958-2009)
    • Solution in the meantime... is not ideal at all (see pic to the right)
  • Replaced the original door mirrors (one of which wouldn't adjust anymore, both were small by my taste) with a set of nice OEM FJ70 black ones from CityRacer. (OEM 70 Series Black Mirrors, Fits FJ60 - Set of 2)
    • I wanted black, square mirrors. But I read a lot of reviews of the aftermarket FJ62 mirrors on here and elsewhere that complained about rattling and coming loose (almost all of them...) so I sprung for the OEM ones.
  • Took white lithium grease to the door hinges. No more squeaking! They open and close great.
  • The rearview mirror came off in my hand when I was adjusting it. Replaced with a used beige FJ80 one off eBay to move away from the gross crumbly decaying plastic, and to match with the tan/brown interior.
  • Replaced gas shocks on the back tailgate with the Tuff Support aftermarket ones off Amazon (Amazon links don't seem to play nice here).
  • The tailgate wouldn't open, and I couldn't tell why (unlocking/locking it made a solid noise, and so did playing with
    IMG_1184.jpeg
    the handle, but nothing would happen). I took the carpet and access panels off the interior, spent 20 minutes looking around inside the tailgate, and things seemed to be moving ok - but somehow the rod pushing the tailgate latch was not being moved enough to actually allow the tailgate to fall. I played around with that rod with my hand while playing with the handle... and then suddenly the tailgate dropped! Since that, it has reliably unlocked and locked and worked properly. Not sure what the issue really was, but going to keep an eye on it [pic of success]. Also gave it the lithium grease treatment.
    • Combined with the gas shocks, the rear now opens nice and wide, ready for camping 😁
  • Driver's door window crank did nothing to move the window (would make a grinding noise). Took out the regulator, couldn't see what was wrong, ordered the Doorman 749-820 aftermarket part off Amazon, and installed it.
    • Still have an issue where the window doesn't really want to move up. It tends to start rubbing and running over the black rubber on the track. Not sure what to do for that one yet, maybe it needs to get re-seated. Wasn't an issue moving the old window by hand.
    • This also means the truck is now rainproof, instead of always having the driver's window always a couple inches ajar!
  • Tried taking apart the front passenger's seatbelt retractor to see what was wrong (the front passenger has really week retracting force, the driver's no force at all). Accidentally opened the white plastic case with all the springs... so just went ahead and ordered new front belts off SeatBeltPlanet. [link here]
    • Does anyone have an install guide for the SeatBeltPlanet front belts? I'm not sure what to do with them, starting with how to remove the short parts of the belt in the middle of the car (the female ends).
    • I'll re-do the rear ones as well, but first want to investigate the three-point shoulder belt location on the C-pillar and see if mine is threaded or not.
  • Ordered new carpets from DNP as per what John Staton said I should do. The GF is very excited by this 😂 They arrived last week and look great - can't wait to install them in the new year!
    • Only complaint so far that I didn't see documented anywhere on the forums is that I'm pretty sure they had a pretty bad offgassing smell after an hour... so I moved them from my bedroom into the garage.
 
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When I get home I’ll drop some photos of installing the new front belts in my 84. It’s all pretty straight forward. Do one side at a time so you can use the other for reference if you forget something. The only trick is that you have to use the old mounting bracket and bend a tab as I recall. Simple though.
 

kenavt

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Second half of the update...

The valve cover is leaking oil pretty badly. I was wondering (hoping) that this is why the engine oil level was so low when I drained and re-filled that, so replacing the valve cover gasket was next on my list. It's becoming increasingly clear that the PO was poor with maintenance because of the lack of documentation give to me (the only maintenance receipt I was given was for an engine rebuild in 2001 at ~102k miles), missing emissions hoses, no cap on the coolant reservoir... and as I would discover, more.

I needed to drive the car down to San Jose (~50 miles) to park at a friend's place while I am out of town for the holidays, had little time to do it, and wanted to get familiar with a local shop in case of emergencies or other work I'd like to offload. Plus I figured the truck could use a valve adjustment while the valve cover was off, and the last time I did that (on a BMW E30) I butchered it. So I made an appointment with Toy Shop on Geary in SF (recommended on IH8MUD LC shop in San Jose/Santa Clara areas) for a valve cover gasket and valve adjustment. Based on my one experience, I'd recommend the place and will probably use them for more work - they are unreliable about answering the phone and are always booked 2-3 weeks out, but really treated me well per the story I'll tell below.

I made an appointment, but had to push it out a couple of times due to personal planes. The appointment I actually made was for a Tuesday morning, looking to pick up the truck Wednesday morning. Tuesday at lunch one of the folks calls me and tells me that when he took the valve cover off, he saw milky oil/likely coolant in the oil 😬. Tells me that the head gasket will probably need to get replaced, but also that I was suprisingly low on coolant and he wants to check some more things out first. I say okay, thinking I would hear back from him later that day after he checks those things out - and I don't. I call back the next morning around 8:15am, 10am, and 12pm - and he calls back around 12:30pm. I call back again at 2pm and get him, and he explains more. Specifically that I was low on coolant, they found a pinhole leak in a hose (thanks to a pressure test) that they replaced, and that they've noted engine oil leaks (surprise) and other issues with the truck, but nothing seems too urgent. I arrange to pick it up the next morning at opening (Thursday morning) since I need to park it for the holidays, and the man says he'll point out the issues to me.

I show up the next morning at opening, and when I arrive the truck it's on a lift. The person from over the phone spends half an hour with me pointing out issues, and advises a "wait-and-see" approach on the oil contamination and any possible coolant leaks. They did quite a few things for me:

  • Ran a pressure test on the coolant system to find the pinhole leak in the hose
    • From the test, didn't see evidence of an internal leak or head gasket leak despite the oil contamination under the valve cover
  • Took off the tailpipe
    • It had disconnected from the muffler and was bouncing against the rear diff. Put it in the back of the truck.
  • Routed a few emissions hoses that they said were routed wrong 😬
  • Put in a few emissions hoses (including PCV hose and the three hoses I asked about in this thread Missing hoses (worried about smog)). Didn't charge me for this!
  • Didn't bother doing the adjustment, said that the adjustments look fine
  • Replaced the valve cover gasket as originally asked
  • Topped off transmission oil
The shop also gave me a nice fun list of things that they had noticed that'll need to get sorted out eventually (of which I'll try to do as many myself as possible). They said that in general the Cruiser seems solid and worth working on - both engine and body! That was nice and validating to hear. Here's the list:
  • Advised replacing all cooling system hoses
  • Engine oil leaks
    • Timing chain cover gasket, side cover gasket, oil pan gasket, rear engine seal
  • Transmission and transfer case leaking oil (see picture in my previous post)
    • Topped off the transmission oil
  • Steering knuckle seals leaking (the normal problem)
  • Front stabilizer bar left side end link bent
  • Suspension leaf spring bushings worn
  • Tail pipe no longer connected to the muffler, which they removed
  • Replace worn and missing hoses remaining in the emissions system
    • They replaced a few for me, but I suspect there's more
  • And by far the weirdest one: they think the thermostat may not be working - engine always reports to be cold. I thought the instrument cluster dial wasn't working, but the shop pointed out that after running for 20-30 minutes it'll move slightly up from cold (no more then 5mm), still at the bottom of the range. I know there's a thermostat guide around here somewhere (in-depth on how the thermostat behaves, resistances, the dial moving) so once I find that again that's my highest-priority mechanical item.
One last fun thing: about six weeks after I bought it from them, the PO also dropped a small bag of goodies at my apartment when I was out. It includes the original owner's manual (in decent shape!), an "oil drain gauge" (will put the exact part number, I don't recognize the part).

Questions for folks...
  • Does anyone know where these wheels/rims are from in my pictures above? I want to replace the tires, and so was thinking about putting on new rims (ideally black). If the rims have any relation remotely to OEM I would reconsider that (or instead would consider plastidipping or powercoating).
    • Alternatively, is there a good guide for choosing tire sizes with and without a lift? Considering a longer-term project of putting in a 1" or 2" lift from OME shocks.
  • Is there good documentation for the SeatPlanet seat belt install? The FSM doesn't really detail the seat belt assembly install/removal instructions, just the parts.
  • I will replace the seat covers as FJACS and John Staton said, but I love the OEM plaid pattern... is there a way to get OEM seat covers from somewhere, even if they're a bit expensive? I know there are lots of modern-material seat covers available, and CruiserCorp has one that has the right color scheme (Brown Seat Covers / Front & Rear Kit - FJ60, FJ62 1980-1990), but I really love that original pattern.
 

kenavt

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When I get home I’ll drop some photos of installing the new front belts in my 84. It’s all pretty straight forward. Do one side at a time so you can use the other for reference if you forget something. The only trick is that you have to use the old mounting bracket and bend a tab as I recall. Simple though.

Thanks Seth, I'd really appreciate it ☺️
 
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Thanks Seth, I'd really appreciate it ☺

Here’s my thread. First page goes over seatbelts.




The first and second page on the link I show the steps I did to swap the front belts. you will need to remove the sill plates in both the front and back doors so that you can peel back the body trim from the door opening and then carefully pull out the plastic B pillar trim. Once that trim you can see the reel mount bolts. The floor mount and B pillar mount bolts are also straight forward. The only thing I had to do was use the old mount bracket from the original reel to mount the new reel:

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The only modification you have to do is either cut off that little nub on the top...or like i did straighten it out like this:

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I also replaced the mounting bolts with shorter ones:

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And the tools I used for the job. I used the copper anti-seize for the bolts that thread into the body in the floor and B pillar...but definitely for the floor as those are exposed to the elements under the truck.

1577719986656.png
 
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Under the hood
I had nasty seat covers as well (not as bad as yours, but stained and smelled musty and gross.) I removed the covers, stitched up a blown seam and bent new rods.

I sprayed the covers with Shout and let it sit. Then I threw them in the wash with some oxi-clean. They came out looking and smelling like new. It also allowed me to treat rust on the seat frame. It was a bit of work (ih8hog rings) but the result was awesome.
 

kenavt

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The first and second page on the link I show the steps I did to swap the front belts. you will need to remove the sill plates in both the front and back doors so that you can peel back the body trim from the door opening and then carefully pull out the plastic B pillar trim. Once that trim you can see the reel mount bolts. The floor mount and B pillar mount bolts are also straight forward. The only thing I had to do was use the old mount bracket from the original reel to mount the new reel:

View attachment 2169073

The only modification you have to do is either cut off that little nub on the top...or like i did straighten it out like this:

View attachment 2169074

Thanks a ton, Sean! This is really helpful!

Did you have any trick for loosening the original bolts (the 2 T30 Torx) on the original reel's mount bracket? Mine are apparently on really tight, but don't show any signs of rust. I am going to let them sit with PB Blaster overnight and give it another shot tomorrow, maybe pick up some sort of T30 right-angle screwdriver.

Additionally, I don't see you talk about this in your thread but... is there also a trick to removing the female end of the seat belts (the shorter plastic pieces by the center console)? I'm pretty sure mine are original, and there doesn't seem to be any nut or anything to grab on to - looks riveted.

Thanks for talking about your wheel bearing rebuild in your thread! That's also on my list... eventually.
 
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Yoooo wassup SF/Bay Area! Go Dubs/Niners/Traiders!

I’ve had to do most, if not all of that work you listed. I hope your dotcom app went public cause paying someone to do all of that is going to cost a pretty penny. Time to move to the burbs and get a garage and a driveway and a good tool set.

I cover a lot of that work you listed needing above in my build thread (in my signature). Check it out if you’re bored. I also did a carpet swap write up here. @Seth_O has the right idea on cleaning that back seat. Stick it in the wash. If you don’t want to do that, I own one of those Safeway style carpet cleaners with the hand attachment you can borrow.

There are a bunch of us Bay Area 60 guys lurking around here. There is a thread going now on the 60 page about us all getting together. Jump on it and intro yourself.

Oh and those are not OEM wheels. Here is the master list...

@Hojack also just installed the Seat Belt Plamet Seat belts like yesterday. He can share some insight as well.

Welcome to your new friends and internet club house. Your old friends won’t understand... :flipoff2:

joe
 
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g-man

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Really, I wouldn't do any more work on this truck if I were you until the head/gasket is sorted. coolant mixed with oil sitting on a cylinder head is a bad head gasket or more likely a cracked head. Coolant mixing with oil to the point that it becomes milky is going to cause havoc with your internal bearings. Read over my build thread in my sig. line. Thought I had a head gasket leak but turned out to be hairlike cracks in the head.

Leaking oil from the areas you mentioned can wait. Just keep checking the dip stick and topping it off. Look at what is pooling on the ground. If were talking teaspoon or tablespoons... just put it off. If it looks like quarts leaking on the ground like several sq ft of oil...then it becomes a priority.

The side plate is relatively easy, next easiest is the oil pan. Harder still the front timing gear seal and most hardest...the rear main seal because you have to pull the transmission. But none of the leaking oil is hurting anything but the asphalt as long as you keep the oil topped off.

This is a typical old 60 with lack of maintenance. Did the shop check the spark plugs? Make sure they are not becoming fouled with milky oil or soot from an internal exhaust leak...this can happen if you have a crack in the head between exhaust passages and oil. The oil fill cap may have some soot on it as well. If this happens you will soon have a miss because of fouled plugs along with vibrations from the engine and lack of power on the hills.
 
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Those aren't stock wheels, for any land cruiser, and do not look at home.

Stock steel wheels and hubcaps, or stock 60/62 wagon wheels can be found used pretty easy, especially on the west coast. Or you could get the 70 series 16" wheels, new. This would open up more tire size options.
 
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@kenavt i wasn’t sure what you meant. But I happen to have my old belt in hand. You don’t touch the rivet. Just unbolt the whole thing and use the new parts. The new belt comes with new bolts and brackets that mount to the floor where the old one mounted.

AD86C96B-C54B-408C-A9A5-CFFA49D973B8.jpeg
 
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kenavt

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Yoooo wassup SF/Bay Area! Go Dubs/Niners/Traiders!

I’ve had to do most, if not all of that work you listed. I hope your dotcom app went public cause paying someone to do all of that is going to cost a pretty penny. Time to move to the burbs and get a garage and a driveway and a good tool set.

I cover a lot of that work you listed needing above in my build thread (in my signature). Check it out if you’re bored. I also did a carpet swap write up here. @Seth_O has the right idea on cleaning that back seat. Stick it in the wash. If you don’t want to do that, I own one of those Safeway style carpet cleaners with the hand attachment you can borrow.

There are a bunch of us Bay Area 60 guys lurking around here. There is a thread going now on the 60 page about us all getting together. Jump on it and intro yourself.

Oh and those are not OEM wheels. Here is the master list...

@Hojack also just installed the Seat Belt Plamet Seat belts like yesterday. He can share some insight as well.

Welcome to your new friends and internet club house. Your old friends won’t understand... :flipoff2:

joe

Thanks Joe! Unfortunately I'm wrenching just in a borrowed garage on the weekends and occasionally in the street on the weekdays... maybe 2020 will be real, real nice to me and I'll get the space in east Bay or south Bay that I need 😂 I think I can pull off most of the work, just not the harder mechanical stuff - the head gasket or dropping the tranny are beyond me and my current setup.

Your thread is awesome! Great bedtime reading for me, especially your carpet install - I'll have to check out that place in east Bay that sells jute by the yard. Thanks for the wheels and Bay Area thread too - looking forward to all this!

Really, I wouldn't do any more work on this truck if I were you until the head/gasket is sorted. coolant mixed with oil sitting on a cylinder head is a bad head gasket or more likely a cracked head. Coolant mixing with oil to the point that it becomes milky is going to cause havoc with your internal bearings. Read over my build thread in my sig. line. Thought I had a head gasket leak but turned out to be hairlike cracks in the head.

Leaking oil from the areas you mentioned can wait. Just keep checking the dip stick and topping it off. Look at what is pooling on the ground. If were talking teaspoon or tablespoons... just put it off. If it looks like quarts leaking on the ground like several sq ft of oil...then it becomes a priority.

The side plate is relatively easy, next easiest is the oil pan. Harder still the front timing gear seal and most hardest...the rear main seal because you have to pull the transmission. But none of the leaking oil is hurting anything but the asphalt as long as you keep the oil topped off.

This is a typical old 60 with lack of maintenance. Did the shop check the spark plugs? Make sure they are not becoming fouled with milky oil or soot from an internal exhaust leak...this can happen if you have a crack in the head between exhaust passages and oil. The oil fill cap may have some soot on it as well. If this happens you will soon have a miss because of fouled plugs along with vibrations from the engine and lack of power on the hills.

Yeah... I'm coming around to needing to do the head gasket ASAP as well, maybe check out the thermostat first. I'm pretty sure I've lost a bit of coolant in the last ten miles of driving and it hasn't been from leaks...

The oil is in the tablespoons category, so I'm not too fussed about that either. I have new plugs, I'll pull the old ones after checking the thermostat and take a look.

@kenavt i wasn’t sure what you meant. But I happen to have my old belt in hand. You don’t touch the rivet. Just unbolt the whole thing and use the new parts. The new belt comes with new bolts and brackets that mount to the floor where the old one mounted.

OH this makes so much more sense! Thanks Seth.
 

kenavt

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After struggling with it for a while including buying a Torx bit for my socket... does anyone happen to have extras of the reel mount brackets on the B-pillar? Happy to pay + shipping. If no one sees this thread then I'll buy an impact driver, that probably won't work, and then I'll start hitting up pick-n-pulls.
 

kenavt

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Long time, no see update... personal life has been pretty busy so haven't done much, only put about 25 miles on the truck since (<3 mile drives just going around town). That totals ~75 miles since I bought it in October, so I don't think any long-term damage has been done despite whatever condition the engine is in. There only have really been two big new developments:

- Finally installed those new front seatbelts after failing to get those Torx bolts off and getting new brackets from ClassicCruisers (thanks @Seth S for the help!).
- Based on the advice from @g-man and just thinking about it, swapped in new spark plugs to look at the old ones. I have no idea how many miles are on them but they don't look pretty; looks like a lot of carbon buildup on most of them. And most of them had wet threads when I pulled them out (pics are from a few weeks since they were pulled, so they've become a little bit more dry). So I'm assuming I'm burning at least a little bit of oil. Worst offenders are below, a bit of variance among the set (pics attached at the bottom of the post)

Next things I want to work on:
- Figure out if my thermostat is working properly, as the temperature gauge never moves more then a couple of hairs from the bottom (need to find that amazing PDF on here where someone goes in depth on the thermostat and debugging).
- Decide whether or not I think coolant is actually mixing with the oil. A knowledgeable person I talked to recently said that frequently a bit of condensation will get inside the oil filler cap and make oil in the valve head look a bit milky; not sure if I buy that but it makes me feel good right now.

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