142k on my cruiser. Almost certain no work has been done on the Birfields. No leaking, no discolored diff fluid, grease in knuckes looks new under the cap. I may regret it, but I ain't doing anything to it until it starts leaking or clicking. From owning a 60 and a 62 in the past I can tell you this front end is in good shape.
Can't Service Birfields ????? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter doctorJ
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Pit,
Your logic escapes me.
I heard of a guy that never changed his oil or filter and had 90k miles on it when he sold it. Added a quart every now and then. Lets see.... that's about 30 oil changes at $50 per change. He saved $1,500 by not following his mechanic's advice. Brilliant.
-B-
Your logic escapes me.
I heard of a guy that never changed his oil or filter and had 90k miles on it when he sold it. Added a quart every now and then. Lets see.... that's about 30 oil changes at $50 per change. He saved $1,500 by not following his mechanic's advice. Brilliant.
-B-
Fun? No that would be landing a 20 lb. steelhead on the Clearwater river or shooting my limit of pheasant on a sunny autumn afternoon.
Personally I am doing it as "preventative" because I would rather pay the $400 now at a time of MY choosing rather than let Mr. birf pick the time, which would probably be at the most inopportune time i.e . stranded, towing bill. Coupled with the fact that waiting until it NEEDS attention invariably costs much more.
Remember I mentioned that the front of my knuckles are dry. Up until recently they were in excellent condition with 95,000 on them and I have upwards of 200,000 as Pitbull stated.
Vince
Personally I am doing it as "preventative" because I would rather pay the $400 now at a time of MY choosing rather than let Mr. birf pick the time, which would probably be at the most inopportune time i.e . stranded, towing bill. Coupled with the fact that waiting until it NEEDS attention invariably costs much more.
Remember I mentioned that the front of my knuckles are dry. Up until recently they were in excellent condition with 95,000 on them and I have upwards of 200,000 as Pitbull stated.
Vince
I did mine at 48700 miles the first time 
and at 49500 miles the second time :whoops:
because I changed everything to synthetic.
That is anal, or ?
Mike
and at 49500 miles the second time :whoops:
because I changed everything to synthetic.
That is anal, or ?
Mike
- Thread starter
- #26
Obviously a HOT topic 8) .
For what it's worth the front diff fluid was really clean looking when I switched all the fluids to synthetic a few weeks ago. The knuckles are pristine compared to my 60 - which has 150K and the birfs haven't ever seen the light of day - though I did a front diff service last summer after water go into it.
I guess I'll just put it on the back burner for a few months while I look for an experienced mechanic. My most pressing problem continues to be the leaking drain tube from the sun roof - Saturday is already set aside just for that.
Jay
For what it's worth the front diff fluid was really clean looking when I switched all the fluids to synthetic a few weeks ago. The knuckles are pristine compared to my 60 - which has 150K and the birfs haven't ever seen the light of day - though I did a front diff service last summer after water go into it.
I guess I'll just put it on the back burner for a few months while I look for an experienced mechanic. My most pressing problem continues to be the leaking drain tube from the sun roof - Saturday is already set aside just for that.
Jay
There is one other factor in this mess and that is trailside repairs. those of us who abuse (not flaming anyone) our trucks off road want to know how to repair anything that happens while on the trail. the cdl button will maybe get you out if you drop the front drive line and drive to your freindly garage. however, I would rather know how to do it so if ro when I really NEED to know how to tear down the knuckle to make it driveable I will be able to in record time. well maybe not record time I think Christo pretty well has that dialed.
as far as being single you can do what I did and send the wife and kid to disneyland on the weekend I redid mine. just think no whining about being in the garage to 2:00 am and then you can go to the strip club after and no one is the wiser.
Dave
as far as being single you can do what I did and send the wife and kid to disneyland on the weekend I redid mine. just think no whining about being in the garage to 2:00 am and then you can go to the strip club after and no one is the wiser.
Dave
Dave has an excellent point and he has identified the #1 reason that I did the service, in my garage, on my time schedule. (i.e. not -5[sup]o[/sup] outside!) I wanted to be confident that a trail failure could be handled without assistance.
-B-
-B-
[quote author=Beowulf link=board=2;threadid=10391;start=msg93304#msg93304 date=1074700292]
Pit,
Your logic escapes me.
But your "Brilliant".
-B-
[/quote]
Thank you
Let me help you out on this, look in the Toyota service manual it tells you what is serviced and when to do the service and what should be replaced only when it leaks or fails. Based on your logic you should change the headgasket on all FZJ80's because they could fail, and you should change all of your light bulbs on a certain interval because they will eventually fail. I bet you wear a belt and suspenders at the same time. That's cool, if that works for you. But I bet there are more 80's running around with 150K plus miles and no axle service ever done and will keep going many more miles with no problem. This is one area where the answer is based on the vehicle useage/owner skill level and desire/cost of service versus cost of repair. It's not a black or white issue. Damn I know this post has now doomed me to a failed axle seal in the near future :
Pit,
Your logic escapes me.
But your "Brilliant".
-B-
[/quote]
Thank you
Let me help you out on this, look in the Toyota service manual it tells you what is serviced and when to do the service and what should be replaced only when it leaks or fails. Based on your logic you should change the headgasket on all FZJ80's because they could fail, and you should change all of your light bulbs on a certain interval because they will eventually fail. I bet you wear a belt and suspenders at the same time. That's cool, if that works for you. But I bet there are more 80's running around with 150K plus miles and no axle service ever done and will keep going many more miles with no problem. This is one area where the answer is based on the vehicle useage/owner skill level and desire/cost of service versus cost of repair. It's not a black or white issue. Damn I know this post has now doomed me to a failed axle seal in the near future :
TennCrusher, you need to compare apples to apples. The 60 and 62 are parttime systems. The front is only driven when engaged in 4 wheel drive. The 80's front axle is driven all the time. If you drove your 60 in 4 wheel drive 5% of the time you would need to have driven 1,200,000 miles to equal the same use as an 80 at 60,000 miles. I would imagine that 5% could be a little generous also. That would be 5 miles out of ever 100.
Mike that does seem a little extreme. We are taliking about a complete knuckle service aren't we?
Mike that does seem a little extreme. We are taliking about a complete knuckle service aren't we?
Pitbull, do you add grease to the steering knuckle when you grease the u-jionts? You do grease them don't you?
The owners manual says:
Schedule A 7.5mi 15mi 22.5 etc R= replace,change or lubricate
Steering knuckle grease R R R etc
I thought R = replace so I replaced the grease in the steering knuckle every 7.5 mi
The owners manual says:
Schedule A 7.5mi 15mi 22.5 etc R= replace,change or lubricate
Steering knuckle grease R R R etc
I thought R = replace so I replaced the grease in the steering knuckle every 7.5 mi
I think everybody should go til they need both birfs.
>> look in the Toyota service manual it tells you what is serviced and
>> when to do the service and
>> what should be replaced only when it leaks or fails.
FSM page reference, please.
-B-
>> when to do the service and
>> what should be replaced only when it leaks or fails.
FSM page reference, please.
-B-
[quote author=tobascofish link=board=2;threadid=10391;start=msg93754#msg93754 date=1074741885]
Ahh yes, the Gold Club!
juane
[/quote]
Don't forget the Cheetah III Hell I could pay cash for an 80 if I could get back the money that I spent in though places over the 14 years that I lived there. 
Ahh yes, the Gold Club!
juane
[/quote]
Don't forget the Cheetah III
Hell I could pay cash for an 80 if I could get back the money that I spent in though places over the 14 years that I lived there. 
When I find a weekend during the summer that I am not pressed for time, I'll be old enough to be in a care home grabbing the nurse's butt (while she changes my diaper).
My company says you're welcome for the; 
<-- replace wine with . Now, where again should that laser mount to one's bumper?
[quote author=Beowulf link=board=2;threadid=10391;start=msg93148#msg93148 date=1074660817]
Kenton,
>> B and others would maybe suggest service between 1 and 2 <<
I recommend 60k miles; possibly pushing it to 90k miles for the first one. I don't recommend doing it when you're pressed for time and I don't recommend doing it in the dead of a brutal Chicago winter in an unheated and unventilated garage. That was kinda dumb on your part.
As for the mess you made... well I guess we could have someone update the Birf repack procedure and offer up tips and tricks for keeping clean. Would you like to volunteer?
Just curious, what would your bearings have looked like had you waited until 4 or 5?
Oh yeah, I forgot to thank you for the while you were in town.
-B-
[/quote]
My company says you're welcome for the
; <-- replace wine with . Now, where again should that laser mount to one's bumper? [quote author=Beowulf link=board=2;threadid=10391;start=msg93148#msg93148 date=1074660817]
Kenton,
>> B and others would maybe suggest service between 1 and 2 <<
I recommend 60k miles; possibly pushing it to 90k miles for the first one. I don't recommend doing it when you're pressed for time and I don't recommend doing it in the dead of a brutal Chicago winter in an unheated and unventilated garage. That was kinda dumb on your part.
As for the mess you made... well I guess we could have someone update the Birf repack procedure and offer up tips and tricks for keeping clean. Would you like to volunteer?
Just curious, what would your bearings have looked like had you waited until 4 or 5?
Oh yeah, I forgot to thank you for the
while you were in town. -B-
[/quote]
[quote author=landtank link=board=2;threadid=10391;start=msg93613#msg93613 date=1074728015]
TennCrusher, you need to compare apples to apples. The 60 and 62 are parttime systems. The front is only driven when engaged in 4 wheel drive. The 80's front axle is driven all the time. If you drove your 60 in 4 wheel drive 5% of the time you would need to have driven 1,200,000 miles to equal the same use as an 80 at 60,000 miles. I would imagine that 5% could be a little generous also. That would be 5 miles out of ever 100.
Mike that does seem a little extreme. We are taliking about a complete knuckle service aren't we?
[/quote]
Yes, a complete front axle service. I just wanted to be sure of the front axle at the time when I purchased the rig and the second time I didn't want to miss out on synthetics at any place.
So now it should be fit for another 60000 miles
Mike
TennCrusher, you need to compare apples to apples. The 60 and 62 are parttime systems. The front is only driven when engaged in 4 wheel drive. The 80's front axle is driven all the time. If you drove your 60 in 4 wheel drive 5% of the time you would need to have driven 1,200,000 miles to equal the same use as an 80 at 60,000 miles. I would imagine that 5% could be a little generous also. That would be 5 miles out of ever 100.
Mike that does seem a little extreme. We are taliking about a complete knuckle service aren't we?
[/quote]
Yes, a complete front axle service. I just wanted to be sure of the front axle at the time when I purchased the rig and the second time I didn't want to miss out on synthetics at any place.
So now it should be fit for another 60000 miles
Mike
R
robbie
Guest
Hey Pitbull when was the last time you put diff fuild in your front diff? If it is the same as the service on the knucles or the others that have high miles on their trucks you will make dan happy. Full time trucks need the extra care. Not only will you wreck the Birfields (cost is around 375 a piece). the bushing in the spindle will be toasted(bushing if you can get them about 45 apiece). O yea the ring and pinion and the diff bearing, cost several hundred. not counting the labor. And if you are lucky and not take car of the wheel bearing, Koyo cost about 35-40 apiece. If you trash the spindle because the wheel bearing are loose then add a spindle at cost 175 apiece. Lots of money down the drain. The 80 in the US is not like the 60-62 US spec. lots more to go wrong if you do not take care of it. All that will put dan boat in the water. Later Robbie
[quote author=robbie link=board=2;threadid=10391;start=msg94084#msg94084 date=1074804254]
Hey Pitbull when was the last time you put diff fuild in your front diff? If it is the same as the service on the knucles or the others that have high miles on their trucks you will make dan happy. Full time trucks need the extra care. Not only will you wreck the Birfields (cost is around 375 a piece). the bushing in the spindle will be toasted(bushing if you can get them about 45 apiece). O yea the ring and pinion and the diff bearing, cost several hundred. not counting the labor. And if you are lucky and not take car of the wheel bearing, Koyo cost about 35-40 apiece. If you trash the spindle because the wheel bearing are loose then add a spindle at cost 175 apiece. Lots of money down the drain. The 80 in the US is not like the 60-62 US spec. lots more to go wrong if you do not take care of it. All that will put dan boat in the water. Later Robbie
[/quote]
I change the diff fluids every 30K miles, I use Mobil synthetic 75w90 and repack the wheel bearings every 30K miles. The diff fluid alway looks good. Knuckes are clean and don't leak and there is no noise from the birfields. I have almost 135K miles with no repack of the birfields. Like I said before I will do what several of the members recommend and that is if it starts to leak or make noise I will repair the frontend. I agree that if you had an owner that was not knowledgeable that some damage could be done before the leak or noise was dianosed. But here is the other side for an owner that would not personally do this service. Around $1200 every 60K miles. If I would of followed this recommendation I would already be out $2400. That money is still in my pocket. If I used my LC off road or needed it to make a living my decision might be different, but I'm retired and have other transportation so if I need to put it in the shop for repair it's not a problem. I listen to all of the members expertise and then try to make the right decision that fits my circumstance. Robbie if you lived in my area and were here to help me wrench I would then do it myself. I'm good at taking stuff apart but my wife yells at me when I get mad and try and fix everything with a hammer
Hey Pitbull when was the last time you put diff fuild in your front diff? If it is the same as the service on the knucles or the others that have high miles on their trucks you will make dan happy. Full time trucks need the extra care. Not only will you wreck the Birfields (cost is around 375 a piece). the bushing in the spindle will be toasted(bushing if you can get them about 45 apiece). O yea the ring and pinion and the diff bearing, cost several hundred. not counting the labor. And if you are lucky and not take car of the wheel bearing, Koyo cost about 35-40 apiece. If you trash the spindle because the wheel bearing are loose then add a spindle at cost 175 apiece. Lots of money down the drain. The 80 in the US is not like the 60-62 US spec. lots more to go wrong if you do not take care of it. All that will put dan boat in the water. Later Robbie
[/quote]
I change the diff fluids every 30K miles, I use Mobil synthetic 75w90 and repack the wheel bearings every 30K miles. The diff fluid alway looks good. Knuckes are clean and don't leak and there is no noise from the birfields. I have almost 135K miles with no repack of the birfields. Like I said before I will do what several of the members recommend and that is if it starts to leak or make noise I will repair the frontend. I agree that if you had an owner that was not knowledgeable that some damage could be done before the leak or noise was dianosed. But here is the other side for an owner that would not personally do this service. Around $1200 every 60K miles. If I would of followed this recommendation I would already be out $2400. That money is still in my pocket. If I used my LC off road or needed it to make a living my decision might be different, but I'm retired and have other transportation so if I need to put it in the shop for repair it's not a problem. I listen to all of the members expertise and then try to make the right decision that fits my circumstance. Robbie if you lived in my area and were here to help me wrench I would then do it myself. I'm good at taking stuff apart but my wife yells at me when I get mad and try and fix everything with a hammer
