Can't remove outer tie rod end (1 Viewer)

[djgonzo007]

I'm in the middle of replacing the outer tie rod ends on my '99 LX 470 and I can't get the tie rod end to unseat.

I've loosened the retaining/alignment bolt and removed the pin and castle nut bolt. I've tried hitting it lightly with a mallet, but that didn't work. I went to Autozone and checked out a tie rod end puller and even that isn't working. I've pounded the tie rod puller all the way in and the tie rod is still firmly in place.

Thoughts/ideas?

Thanks,
DJG

 

[JunkCrzr89]

2-jaw Pitman arm puller + torch.

 

[socalmtbiker]

If you have your rig on jack stands on the frame, jack up the A arm on the side your doing a little bit. Enough to almost lift the side up. Then use a sledge hammer right on where the tie rod end is connected. Be sure to have the castle nut on. Don't be bashful.

 

[FxFormat]

A couple good whacks on the knuckle's side and it'll pop out, some will say not to do this but you're not hurting anything. Balljoint separator will work too but you gotta crank the crap out of it, and let it sit there for a bit then i'll pop out and sound like a gun shot.

 

[jammingator]

Get a kit with multiple sizes of pullers like this from Advance Auto Parts Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance One of these will work. Jack up the lower control arm first like was suggested above and maneuver the parts to take the tension off the tie rod end. I didn't use a hammer to get them out.

They loan them for free (actually they charge you but refund in full when you return).

 

[Somebodyelse5]

these things seem to take some "wah" to get them off. Some combination of a puller and some heat, plus some impulse persuasion. Also, talk dirty to it, they seem to respond well to cursing. At least mine does.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Also, talk dirty to it, they seem to respond well to cursing. At least mine does.

He’s right. Mine only cooperate after a minimum of four F-bombs per nut/bolt.

 

[djgonzo007]

20 good whacks (seriously) with a sledge hammer did the trick! Tried multiple sizes of the tie rod end/ball joint separators, which didn't work.

Another 30 min job that took all day, thanks to seized bolts and that stuck tie rod end! Off to get an alignment tomorrow morning.

 

[Cola]

20 good whacks (seriously) with a sledge hammer did the trick! Tried multiple sizes of the tie rod end/ball joint separators, which didn't work.

Another 30 min job that took all day, thanks to seized bolts and that stuck tie rod end! Off to get an alignment tomorrow morning.

Had to do the same during my axle replacement.

Highly suggest investing in a brass hammer for this reason alone. Allows you to beat them free while not worrying about damaging the knuckle since the brass will give first

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Had to do the same during my axle replacement.

Highly suggest investing in a brass hammer for this reason alone. Allows you to beat them free while not worrying about damaging the knuckle since the brass will give first

been meaning to pick one of for a while now. Got a recommendation on one you like? I use my brass drift for everything it seems... might have stirred coffee with with it a time or two....

 

[chudly]

whack the area surrounding where the TRE goes in with a sledge/hammer.
and make sure there's room for the knuckle to drop when it loosens

 

[Cola]

been meaning to pick one of for a while now. Got a recommendation on one you like? I use my brass drift for everything it seems... might have stirred coffee with with it a time or two....

I just grabbed mine from Amazon, good quality and seems like it'll last. Beaten on it a little and it does the job and seems like real brass

Amazon product ASIN B00U1F0JXM

 

[chudly]

harbor freight has them cheaper for sure too if there's one local

 

[ramangain]

I do believe, in this instance, the Clarkson approach is in order.

Shouting and hammers.

 

[rally roo]

Bumping this thread instead of starting a new one:

castle nuts were remarkably easy to get off, given how much rust there was, but I’m having no luck getting the tie rod end separated from the knuckle. Tried lifting at the lower control arm, whacking with a hammer (didn’t have brass, but put a block of wood between), and heat - car parts place was closed so couldn’t get a puller. By some combination of rust/force, it looks like I messed up the threads on the castle nut and tie rod bolt; the nut is easy enough to replace, but is the tie rod bolt itself replaceable, or do I need a whole new tie rod? I may be able to chase the threads with the correct die, anyone know the size/pitch?

thanks!

 

[hoser]

Bumping this thread instead of starting a new one:

Good on you there. I'd only try removing the TRE with a puller. And it should be a large puller for 4wd vehicles. You put tension on the bolt and then you tap/wack the arm on the side with a maul.

What job are you doing? If swapping CV's, you can also unbolt the steering arm from the spindle and not need to unfasten the TRE's. The bolt on the TRE is not replaceable in itself.

 

[rally roo]

Good on you there. I'd only try removing the TRE with a puller. And it should be a large puller for 4wd vehicles. You put tension on the bolt and then you tap/wack the arm on the side with a maul.

What job are you doing? If swapping CV's, you can also unbolt the steering arm from the spindle and not need to unfasten the TRE's. The bolt on the TRE is not replaceable in itself.

I’m in the midst of a wheel bearing replacement, and figured it would be an opportune time to inspect the needle bearing and seal as well. Given the condition of everything else the bearing and bushing may need replacement. I will try to source a puller this week, but sounds like I may need a new TRE if my threads are shot too. Thanks for the input!

 

[Bisho]

I have always had luck hitting the side of the arm the TRE goes into. Kind of like hitting the side of the ketchup bottle, it seems counterintuitive, but a few good whacks with a Big hammer and the TRE will drop out.