For me, I experimented with a combination of different sockets, wobbler, and extensions. It was not easy. I'm not sure how I'm going to torque it back down when I reinstall the assembly.
Can we make a exhaust/intake manifold sticky? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Zack1978
- Start date
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For me, I experimented with a combination of different sockets, wobbler, and extensions. It was not easy. I'm not sure how I'm going to torque it back down when I reinstall the assembly.
I'm not 100% on a 62, but on the 2F FJ60, leaking intake and exhaust gasket should not cause oil leaking. I would expect you have either a valve cover leak or a head gasket. Time for some degreaser to clean it all up, then watch to see where the new oil is coming from.
I'm not sure how many
for the intake and exhaust. I'll have a better idea once I finish and see how it runs. I always add at least one if I have to pull it apart and redo something after my first attempt.Bump for the torque #'s. Where is replacement and separation of the manifolds covered in the factory service manuals?
Should the intake and exhaust always be separated to replace the other 2 gaskets when replacing the intake/exhaust gasket?
When I did my head gasket I was able to pull the assy out far enough to drop another gasket in there, its a pretty tight fit, you may need someone pulling out a little while you concentrate on the gasket.
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Anyone know where this info is in the FSM?
Looks like I'm flying solo. I'm trying to reinstall my manifold. Used Copper high temp gasket sealant and blue locktite on the bolts and nuts. 2 pieces of advice:
1. Might as well remove the back power steering pump mounting bolt and cut it off as described in other threads while the exhaust manifold is off. Should make removal of the pump easier in the future.
2. Make sure you clean the bolt holes in the head for the exhaust manifold bolts before you install the manifold. I did not, and I'm having a very difficult time starting the back 2 bolts- they will not thread. I'm going to get 2 new bolts and try that first. If that doesn't work, I'll find a tap and try to rethread the holes. If that doesn't work, I think I'm screwed.
Any other thoughts?
1. Might as well remove the back power steering pump mounting bolt and cut it off as described in other threads while the exhaust manifold is off. Should make removal of the pump easier in the future.
2. Make sure you clean the bolt holes in the head for the exhaust manifold bolts before you install the manifold. I did not, and I'm having a very difficult time starting the back 2 bolts- they will not thread. I'm going to get 2 new bolts and try that first. If that doesn't work, I'll find a tap and try to rethread the holes. If that doesn't work, I think I'm screwed.
Any other thoughts?
i ran a tap in the holes first. bolts hand-threaded in. the tap is a 10mmx1.25.
I am running a MAF ceramic header (2 pc) . didn't do any research on MUD before i installed it. What I didn't realize was the intake and exhaust flanges were different thicknesses. AND the MAF header doesn't use all the holes the OEM exhaust does. SO, what i am doing now is having to go back and install bolts and washers in those holes, even though they don't actually go through the headers or intake flanges. just holding pressure on the header.
I used the MAF gasket they recommended. "You won't have any trouble." whatever. Use all the holes to hold pressure on the headers in as many places as possible.
and make sure the flanges are the same thicknesses. I will have to shim a couple. If I would have cone some research and known all this while it was on the engine stand, I would have shaved alittle off the back side of the bolt holes on the intake so they matched the slightly thinner MAF header flange thickness.
I am running a MAF ceramic header (2 pc) . didn't do any research on MUD before i installed it. What I didn't realize was the intake and exhaust flanges were different thicknesses. AND the MAF header doesn't use all the holes the OEM exhaust does. SO, what i am doing now is having to go back and install bolts and washers in those holes, even though they don't actually go through the headers or intake flanges. just holding pressure on the header.
I used the MAF gasket they recommended. "You won't have any trouble." whatever. Use all the holes to hold pressure on the headers in as many places as possible.
and make sure the flanges are the same thicknesses. I will have to shim a couple. If I would have cone some research and known all this while it was on the engine stand, I would have shaved alittle off the back side of the bolt holes on the intake so they matched the slightly thinner MAF header flange thickness.
I'm not quite sure what you're asking...
If you mean can you remove the plate and just use the gaskets, I suppose so... But you probably want something there to deflect the hot exhaust away from the intake.
I did not know that the SS plate acts as an insulator for the intake. Thanks for the help as I'm a noob and the learning curve is large.
Thanks
John
Thanks
John
Torque Specs
Here's the torques!!!
Here's the torques!!!
There's a factory plate in there already, in addition to the butterfly heat riser. That plate is usually broken in a couple pieces as it's thin tin. The SOR one is a little thicker and SS. It's really made as a block off plate if you use header. Only problem with it, as stated, is you will have to lock the heat riser in the open (hot) position. If you're in a cold area, could delay cold weather starts.. The stock plate is convex, to allow for movement of the flap.
Some people just cut their own plate... Don't have to use SS.
If your stock plate is good, just reuse it.
I took a gasket and used it as a template and made my as close to the stock plate as possible using a dremel with a cut-off wheel. Now she runs a whole lot better. Now its on to the next issue.
Thanks
John
Thanks
John
oh wait, those weren't the torques you were looking for. Sorry.
No problem. I'll post some pictures of my rebuilt manifold later. I just torqued the 2 manifolds down "good and tight." Tightening a bolt into the threaded aluminum intake made me nervous.
Apologies for the dredge, but I'm wondering if anyone knows the answer to this question? I've got my manifolds off and have a new Fel-Pro gasket set that includes the manifold to head gasket, and the intake to exhaust manifold gasket. Should I separate the two and replace the gasket?
Thanks.
If those gaskets seem to be in good condition, and the insulator between them is still in one piece, then leave it alone. If you separate the two manifolds, you'll open up another can o' worms trying to get the mating surfaces level again. However, if you plan to get the manifold resurfaced, then I would take it apart make sure all is working order in there, since you live in MI and I'm guess it gets kinda cold where you are...
Also, good time to check to see if your intake is cracked - If it is, then you'll have to separate to fix.
Also, good time to check to see if your intake is cracked - If it is, then you'll have to separate to fix.
Ok, got it. Thanks. While we're at it, is it recommended to replace the gaskets in the two horns on either end of the exhaust manifold? One swivels pretty easily; the other moves just a tad.
Where am I looking for cracks on the intake? Is there an area that typically cracks?
Appreciate it.
Ring gaskets in the horns are surprisingly expensive: something like $90 for the set. You can gently swivel out the horns and clean everything, and replace the rings that are broken, if any. You can use some Hi-temp Orange RTV on the rings when you put them back in, if you like. I did on mine and it seems to have held up ok.
This is your manifold on crack:
Looking down thru throat of intake manifold. That crack is extreme. Even if you have a hairline crack, you should get it welded at a good machine shop, or replace with good used one.
This is your manifold on crack:
Looking down thru throat of intake manifold. That crack is extreme. Even if you have a hairline crack, you should get it welded at a good machine shop, or replace with good used one.
Thanks, SpikeStrip. I'll poke around inside the manifold tomorrow.
