Can in install a 78 2F motor in a 65 45LV?

[merbesfield]

I know this is a double post, but i am not sure it will get noticed in the 40-45 tech section, plus you guys know so much about these LV's. I have a 2F motor with factory PS and 4 spd with Aisin hubs and disc brakes on front with converted disc brakes on the rear out of a 1978 FJ55 that is very rusty. All the running gear is in great shape. Can I swap all this running gear into a 1965 FJ45LV? If so how hard will it be? How well will it work and power the truck? How dificult is it to cut the floor etc. to allow for the 4 spd? Will the PS convert over? What motor mounts could I use? Thanks

 

[warrior_1515]

For sure you can do this swap. Can't imagine that this will be extremely hard. Haven't done it, but I have heard of it being done before.

Couple things to search under: 2f engine swap. I know that the early 55's carry the same drive train as 40's and the 45's are the same as 40's. However might want to search to see if a '78 FJ55 is the same as 40/45.

All you questions are easily answered under a search of 2f engine swap.

Cutting the floor is as easy as owning Harbor Freight cutting wheel and a bunch of disks. Welding things back together and having it look extremely clean is another story, but all body work questions can be answered in this section. Matt's thread covers reconstructing the floor in amazing detail.

Did you ever get to drive the '78 FJ55. I would race that one with the 45 you own and that would be your power comparison. I know my 45LV would loose that race.

Hope this helps.

Dave

I know this is a double post, but i am not sure it will get noticed in the 40-45 tech section, plus you guys know so much about these LV's. I have a 2F motor with factory PS and 4 spd with Aisin hubs and disc brakes on front with converted disc brakes on the rear out of a 1978 FJ55 that is very rusty. All the running gear is in great shape. Can I swap all this running gear into a 1965 FJ45LV? If so how hard will it be? How well will it work and power the truck? How dificult is it to cut the floor etc. to allow for the 4 spd? Will the PS convert over? What motor mounts could I use? Thanks

 

[fogblanket]

I am putting an 87 2f in my 64 lv. it is half in and is very doable.ther eis a great list that i used that someone compile (cruiser Brett maybe) I will find it or someone else will and post it up butjust trying to thing what you will need vs what i had to get in that I used an 87' vs your 78'
while your motor mounts will work fine up fronti would recomend newmounts (the part that goes between the frame part and the engine ans has the rubber isolator)
the lv engines had 2 sets of engine mounts where as the fj55 doesn't it has a transission cross member. you will need it and harvest as much of the mounting hardware aas you can from the fj55. there will have to be some fab work to get it mouted right. if you can't use the mounting hardware from the fj55 some angle iron for the crossmember mount shoul work fine.
unless you plan on reusing your 3 on the tree which i don't think will work with a 4 speed tranny 9 I could be wrong) you will need to remove all of that stuff. i decided it was easier to use a 78 steering colum so you should harvest the whole steering colum from the fj55 as well.
hth Jason

 

[SteveH]

This is a relatively easy swap, and will nicely power the truck, but it won't be a road rocket. I would use a minitruck PS gearbox on an adaptor pedestal and use whatever factory pump you have. You will need custom driveshafts and exhaust.

Keep the '55 as long as you can, as you'll find lots of handy Toyota parts on it that will work on your '45 - stuff like clips that hold brake lines down, and small things like that. Don't ditch the '55 carcass until you're really all done.

Steve

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I put an '84 2F in my '67 pick-up. Pretty simple swap. Front mounts lined right up. I welded some 3x3 angle to the frame and used the FJ60's tranny-cradle for the rear. I'm not sure how a '78 transmission is supported, I think it isn't. You should be able to use the bellhousing ears off the LV and/or the 4spds may line up as well...

You'll need to either get a booster spacer, remote mount your booster or hack the firewall rib off to fit your booster.

Axles will bolt right in, not sure about shock mounts, they might not be the same?

Power steering, you may need to modify your driver's front shock tower for this? And you'll have to modify your steering column and remove your manual gear box. If it's in good shape and you pull it off without cutting the column, I may be interested in it for my '63 FJ40.

Good luck,

Dan

 

[mallred]

Brakelines

I have done this axel swap with my 63 SWB with the frame off, you might as well figure on just ripping out the old brake lines and replacing them, my 69 fj40 had the old 9 mm fittings when I did the mini and dual mc change out and I fought the different fittings and it would have been easier to put in new lines.

I think when you are done you will be very happy.

Good luck, Myrle

 

[SteveH]

A '78 2F Bellhousing (FJ40/55 style) lines up perfectly with the '65 LWB FJ45 frame. The FJ60 bellhousing, as noted, will require a rear support of some type. I ran the clutch fork on the pass. side, but you could do it on the driver's side.

I second the notion of swapping all the brake lines. I installed '77 FJ40 brake lines and bought a section of new line ($8) with metric fittings that was just the right length to extend the rear brake line to the back of the truck. Worked like a charm.
Final brake note: I used an '84 Toy PU master cylinder (power brake type) bolted directly to the firewall without a booster, and the truck stops very well. A booster/MC combo will have a tough time clearing a carb on a 2F in a '65 body configuration, I learned. YMMV. (The pedals were moved in the later power-brake trucks to provide this clearance. )

 

[merbesfield]

A '78 2F Bellhousing (FJ40/55 style) lines up perfectly with the '65 LWB FJ45 frame. The FJ60 bellhousing, as noted, will require a rear support of some type. I ran the clutch fork on the pass. side, but you could do it on the driver's side.

I second the notion of swapping all the brake lines. I installed '77 FJ40 brake lines and bought a section of new line ($8) with metric fittings that was just the right length to extend the rear brake line to the back of the truck. Worked like a charm.
Final brake note: I used an '84 Toy PU master cylinder (power brake type) bolted directly to the firewall without a booster, and the truck stops very well. A booster/MC combo will have a tough time clearing a carb on a 2F in a '65 body configuration, I learned. YMMV. (The pedals were moved in the later power-brake trucks to provide this clearance. )

Ok, i am starting to get confused. I really appreciate all the replies, but understand you are dealing with a newbie here, sorry. I am confused, ie. don't know all the differences between various models and years. To clarify and simplify, i have a 78 fj55 and want to install the running gear from it into my 65fj45lv wagon. so from what i gather, from most of the replies is that the motor will bolt in easily, the trany will require some rear support, not clear on the factory PS that is included with my 78 fj55? would it be better easier to convert to saginaw or something? would it be worth considering swaping the 4 spd for the 5 spd that is now available? don't want to confuse the main issue here tho. thanks for the help. when i get rid of the 3 on tree steering colum, should i plan on using a GM tilt or will the 78 fj55 go into the 45lv? and do i want to use it? as for speed, how slow/fast will the 45 be? no i have never driven the 55 yet, still working on the brake system, but should have it up and running soon. so i guess once i drive it i will have an idea how it would be in the 45? but the 45 is heavier i think so could be slower? thanks

 

[warrior_1515]

as for speed, how slow/fast will the 45 be? no i have never driven the 55 yet, still working on the brake system, but should have it up and running soon. so i guess once i drive it i will have an idea how it would be in the 45? but the 45 is heavier i think so could be slower? thanks

Yes, your 45LV with a 2F will be slow. Like a Volvo 240 pulling a trailer. Infact I think even that will be faster off the line and at top speed.

But you will deffinately be looking good going slow and most people will be thinking..."what on earth is that thing". While they get a nice long slow look at your cruiser.

Dave

 

[merbesfield]

Yes, your 45LV with a 2F will be slow. Like a Volvo 240 pulling a trailer. Infact I think even that will be faster off the line and at top speed.

But you will deffinately be looking good going slow and most people will be thinking..."what on earth is that thing". While they get a nice long slow look at your cruiser.

Dave

Dave, thanks for the descriptive image of how slow this rig will be. i was laughing last night when i saw on root45 the specs showing the orig. 45lv 0-60 was 22.3 seconds. man is that slow. what do you think the 0-60 was for the 55? can't seem to find those specs. maybe a V8 is the way to go even thou it will not be orig. i am just such a type A personality that when a vehicle is too slow it drives me crazy and i usually hate it. just being honest. it's just that the 2f swap seems so easy compared to a V8 conversion.

 

[1tontoy]

A buddy and I did this swap last night into my '66 fj45 in about 4 hours. It will bolt right in. The accel. linkage will take a little work to setup for the 2F carb.

 

[merbesfield]

A buddy and I did this swap last night into my '66 fj45 in about 4 hours. It will bolt right in. The accel. linkage will take a little work to setup for the 2F carb.

Have you driven it yet? I was referring to swaping into a 45LV not a lpb, although i do have a lpb i could put the 78 stuff into rather than the 65 45LV. Let me know how it runs?

 

[warrior_1515]

Dave, thanks for the descriptive image of how slow this rig will be. i was laughing last night when i saw on root45 the specs showing the orig. 45lv 0-60 was 22.3 seconds. man is that slow. what do you think the 0-60 was for the 55? can't seem to find those specs. maybe a V8 is the way to go even thou it will not be orig. i am just such a type A personality that when a vehicle is too slow it drives me crazy and i usually hate it. just being honest. it's just that the 2f swap seems so easy compared to a V8 conversion.

I am similar in that regard. But to tell you the truth...I like driving all slow. Also I personally would give up the speed any day for having a Toyota engine in my LV. If you plan on doing mild offroading the 2F will have enough power to push your LV.

I have done a couple hill climbs with my LV F135 engine and it was totally fun. Engine making a bunch of noise and cruised right up the hill.

Stick with the 2F is my .02

Dave

 

[merbesfield]

It sounds like the "easy" and "smater" engine swap and improvement would be to go with the 2F and 4 spd. Does anyone know what the 0-60 time was/is for a 1978 FJ55? That would be a starting point.

 

[SteveH]

At high elevation (7000'), my '78 FJ40 with a worn out engine did a 0-60 in 40 seconds. A new 2F chopped 14 seconds off - now a 26 second 0-60. So, in a grand sense, I think you're looking at 20-25 second 0-60 times at sea level.

I chuckle as Dodge Caravans go screaming past me at redline - let 'em go. Relax. You're 'cruising in your 'cruiser - not racing a lowered Civic with a VTEC.
You don't have to drive b*lls-out all the time!

You do have a lot of questions - but you're talking about significant mods to the entire truck - you don't need ALL the answers now - a '78 FJ55 drivetrain is just about the perfect swap gear - save the power steering, but that's an easy fix.

It is safe to say you can easily get a nice running FJ45 with power steering and disk brakes, etc. with much of what you have now. Whether you still want a 350 is up to you, but I'd vote against it.

Steve

 

[merbesfield]

At high elevation (7000'), my '78 FJ40 with a worn out engine did a 0-60 in 40 seconds. A new 2F chopped 14 seconds off - now a 26 second 0-60. So, in a grand sense, I think you're looking at 20-25 second 0-60 times at sea level.

I chuckle as Dodge Caravans go screaming past me at redline - let 'em go. Relax. You're 'cruising in your 'cruiser - not racing a lowered Civic with a VTEC.
You don't have to drive b*lls-out all the time!

You do have a lot of questions - but you're talking about significant mods to the entire truck - you don't need ALL the answers now - a '78 FJ55 drivetrain is just about the perfect swap gear - save the power steering, but that's an easy fix.

It is safe to say you can easily get a nice running FJ45 with power steering and disk brakes, etc. with much of what you have now. Whether you still want a 350 is up to you, but I'd vote against it.

Steve

Steve, just to clarify, when you say FJ45 your are talking about the LV? Ok so you and everyone else has talked me into keeping my cruiser a cruiser and going with my 78 running gear and 2F motor. now next question, if the FJ55 PS will not work, what is the way to go. i have been told that a Saginaw will feel like i am driving a Cadilac as far as responsiveness? Also, do you know if the steering column from my 55 will work in the LV or will i have to go with aftermarket, ie GM tilt, but i know, keep it a cruiser. so i just asking. I could turbo the motor and get some more power, just kidding.

 

[SteveH]

I have a '78 FJ40 and a '65 FJ45 longbed pickup. My 'FJ40 has a PTO winch and ConFerr tank and rings in at 4550 lbs - so pretty close to an LV in porkyness. If you're worried about a couple of seconds in the 0-60 department, you're in the wrong 'hood. They're all gas guzzling slugs. I run 33x9.5 tires on my trucks just so I can drive 70 without feeling like I'm going to blow the engine.

In your '45, I would run minitruck power steering, which is defined as using the steering box from a '79-85 4x4 Toyota minitruck (Hi-Lux) and a adaptor pedestal to replace your OEM steering box mounting casting. You will need to do some fab/cutting/welding. I would not recommend Saginaw/GM steering, but some would. No power steering is going to give you exquisite road feel, but some (Toyota) typically feel less boosted than others (GM). You will find plenty of info on minitruck steering conversions all over Mud and the web.

I cut and modifed a '71 FJ55 steering column to work in my '65 FJ45 pickup, and while it works fine, it's not optimal in every way. In a perfect world, I would have used the original '65 column, but it had some issues. Any steering column mods will involve welding/fabbing/eyeballing and fiddling to get the wiring, horn, and dimensions correct. It may be the toughest part of the conversion, actually. Using the Toyota minitruck box does involve using all the OEM linkage parts and center arm, which some people abhor. So, there's no super-obvious 'best way' to do any of this.


Steve

 

[merbesfield]

I have a '78 FJ40 and a '65 FJ45 longbed pickup. My 'FJ40 has a PTO winch and ConFerr tank and rings in at 4550 lbs - so pretty close to an LV in porkyness. If you're worried about a couple of seconds in the 0-60 department, you're in the wrong 'hood. They're all gas guzzling slugs. I run 33x9.5 tires on my trucks just so I can drive 70 without feeling like I'm going to blow the engine.

In your '45, I would run minitruck power steering, which is defined as using the steering box from a '79-85 4x4 Toyota minitruck (Hi-Lux) and a adaptor pedestal to replace your OEM steering box mounting casting. You will need to do some fab/cutting/welding. I would not recommend Saginaw/GM steering, but some would. No power steering is going to give you exquisite road feel, but some (Toyota) typically feel less boosted than others (GM). You will find plenty of info on minitruck steering conversions all over Mud and the web.

I cut and modifed a '71 FJ55 steering column to work in my '65 FJ45 pickup, and while it works fine, it's not optimal in every way. In a perfect world, I would have used the original '65 column, but it had some issues. Any steering column mods will involve welding/fabbing/eyeballing and fiddling to get the wiring, horn, and dimensions correct. It may be the toughest part of the conversion, actually. Using the Toyota minitruck box does involve using all the OEM linkage parts and center arm, which some people abhor. So, there's no super-obvious 'best way' to do any of this.


Steve

Steve, do you know which PS conversion is it that reduces some of the linkage? I remember reading about some conversion that removes one or two pieces of the linkage which supposedly increases the responsiveness of the truck. Another thought, if Saginaw is a GM part, i have seen on one of the web sites that sells Cutlass resto parts an Olds 442 PS box that is sold with a modified ratio (i think they said something like a late model camaro, 2.5/1?) so that the responsiveness is better and lock to lock is quicker. excuse my ignorance here, going from memory and i definately do not know what i am talking about, but i am learning.

 

[SteveH]

Generally, the Camaro box is avoided on FJ40s because of the short wheelbase. A 2.5 box makes the steering too twitchy. On an FJ45 long bed, it wouldn't be so bad. The Toyota minitruck box is very slow on an FJ45, but that doesn't bother me. The 4-turn box that many folks seek was used on 1970ish Impalas, etc.

Any GM conversion will eliminate linkage parts. Do some Google searches and look at what vendors are selling. Study the current steering and figure out that the bell crank will go away and the new GM box (or Scout, whatever) will go directly to the tie rod from the steering box. The Chevy Astro van box is another conversion that is gaining in popularity, but I'm not that familiar with it. The more 'Chevy' you go, the more cutting and fabbing you'll be doing.

Steve

 

[merbesfield]

Generally, the Camaro box is avoided on FJ40s because of the short wheelbase. A 2.5 box makes the steering too twitchy. On an FJ45 long bed, it wouldn't be so bad. The Toyota minitruck box is very slow on an FJ45, but that doesn't bother me. The 4-turn box that many folks seek was used on 1970ish Impalas, etc.

Any GM conversion will eliminate linkage parts. Do some Google searches and look at what vendors are selling. Study the current steering and figure out that the bell crank will go away and the new GM box (or Scout, whatever) will go directly to the tie rod from the steering box. The Chevy Astro van box is another conversion that is gaining in popularity, but I'm not that familiar with it. The more 'Chevy' you go, the more cutting and fabbing you'll be doing.

Steve

ok, i can see that the 2.5 box would be a bad idea, but what i am trying to figure out is what will work best, ie easiest, and most factory like. if the whole reason for going with the 2F is to keep the truck stockish and all TLC, what is the better PS install which is the least hack job. it sounds like the engine, axels and trany are not too dificult, but the PS sound difficult.