Can I use Delo 400 LE 15w40 in my 2F? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

yes....
 
Yes, but there's not enough of the right stuff in it. I'd add some zddp plus...

Unless you run the Delo 400 Multigrade SAE 15W-40 (API CI-4 PLUS), if you can find it.
 
Yes, but there's not enough of the right stuff in it. I'd add some zddp plus...

Unless you run the Delo 400 Multigrade SAE 15W-40 (API CI-4 PLUS), if you can find it.

I have the zinc additive that I can pour in. The head is getting rebuilt, so I need some new oil. The Delo 400 LE with the additive should be fine then?


Thanks,

Zack
 
I do not recommend using it.
you shoud not save money on oil buy good stuff or it can cost you your engine
 
I have the zinc additive that I can pour in. The head is getting rebuilt, so I need some new oil. The Delo 400 LE with the additive should be fine then?


Thanks,

Zack

Delo 400 LE is excellent oil, just not optimal for your 2F ... but if you add the zddp, according to the concentration formula posted on the web and somewhere 'round here, it will be fine.

The initial conc of zddp, I think, is around 900ppm, now, in that oil, but you'll wanna check.

Personally, sale or no sale, I'd run Rotella T 15w-40 w/ additive or buy a CI rated diesel oil or sparker oil rated for obsolete engines.

This has been hacked to death....

:meh:
 
Just went out to check the last qt of Delo 400 LE 15w40 in my garage that I've been using in my 3FE.
Its ratings on the label include CI-4, CI-4 Plus. I know close to nothing about this, just going off what SpikeStrip mentioned.
 
It's the LE that means it's not an optimal flat- tappet oil, in this case...


t
 
Amsoil makes a 10w-40 with lots of zddp specifically for older, flat-tappet engines.


Too Spendy for us cheap (CHEAP!) cruiser owners ...

:grinpimp:

:hillbilly:
 
Too Spendy for us cheap (CHEAP!) cruiser owners ...

:grinpimp:

:hillbilly:

I was looking to go that route, however that would mean a $90.00 oil change! At some point I may use the Amsoil in the 2F, but since the head is getting redone I will change the initial oil fairly quickly.

I use the Amsoil Z-Rod in my Karmann Ghia, but that car only takes 2 1/2 quarts.

I am now thinking about the Quaker State Defy oil for the FJ-60.


Zack
 
Yeah Castrol has made a new Syntec that is specifically a 5w50 made for flat tappet engines. The PPM was supposed to be somewhere in the 1400s if I remember correctly for ZDDP. However, the cheapest I have found that stuff is $8.99.

Seems like the cheapest route to go is to get one that is a decently high PPM for ZDDP and then do the additive.
 
The VOAs on "Defy" oil, if accurate, are a joke. 900 ppm. Less than Rotella T rated as an SN/CJ oil. It's all marketing Bull-shizzle. A mediocre SM oil, at best.

Really, this had been beaten to death. Unless you're gonna run the expensive high-zinc boutique oils, there just isn't any mass-produced FNAPS-stocked oil that is right for your 2F.

Rotella T + additive + top quality oil filter is about the best you're gonna do if you want to keep your oil change costs down, around $40 per.
 
how many people have had hard parts failure due to engine oil type?

Running a good filter and changing the oil on a regular interval is about the best method of attack I've found. Of course running a modern multi-viscosity oil is part of that too.
 
Honestly, my experience has been that it only really mattered on break- in with a new
engine with a high- lift cam. Older, well- worn- in cams and lifters don't seem to mind
so much.
The trick, as always, is to maintain it properly, that is, reasonable oil change intervals
with a half- decent proper- weight oil.

If the low ZDDP was going to immediately grenade all flat tappets, they wouldn't have
been able to get away with it. It just leads to slightly higher cam and lifter wear levels on already-
built motors.

The only time it's really worth getting your knickers in a twist is with a fresh cam, and then probably
only for the first 10k or so miles.
Afterwards, it's more about ultimate longevity (200k vs 300k miles) and peace of mind...

IMHO, of course- this HAS been done a few times...

heh

t
 
Is this the Rotella that I want?

Zack

image.jpg
 
Yes. Good stuff.
 
So here is a question for the group. When I got BeBe the guy had no maintenance history really on it, a few scribbled OCIs and that was about it. I changed the oil with a good 5w30 in February and when I pull the dipstick it is just starting to change from that nice "new oil" light amber to a little darker honey color. I have been considering changing the oil again in a fairly quick OCI, I have maybe 1000 miles on the oil, to see if I have anything funky in my oil (the old stuff had been in there for quite a while). Plus I want to change to something heavier as I know that I don't need the 5w30.
 
So here is a question for the group. When I got BeBe the guy had no maintenance history really on it, a few scribbled OCIs and that was about it. I changed the oil with a good 5w30 in February and when I pull the dipstick it is just starting to change from that nice "new oil" light amber to a little darker honey color. I have been considering changing the oil again in a fairly quick OCI, I have maybe 1000 miles on the oil, to see if I have anything funky in my oil (the old stuff had been in there for quite a while). Plus I want to change to something heavier as I know that I don't need the 5w30.


What's your question?
I say change it now, new oil filter and Rotella 15W40 and she'll be good to go.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom