Have been having the out of phase/balance issue on my front driveshaft, removed it to test if it was only the front, and got no vibrations. Am wondering if I would be able to do a roadtrip of around 800 miles all highway.
Can I drive 800 miles without my front Driveshaft? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Tetratkys
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Not sure. So I will bump for you.
Lock the center diff and drive. Will not harm anything with the center diff locked.
Saddletramp
GOLD Star
^^^^what he said^^^^
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I just recently did this when I blew a u-joint on a trip. Worked fine for hundreds of miles. CDL locked.
Good to know!
- Thread starter
- #7
Since I don’t have the triple locker, isn’t mine already locked as “full time AWD?”
It’s full time. You may need to trick the transfer into locked HI range.
To be very clear: if you don't have the center diff lock switch (on the dash above the climate controls), the center diff isn't locked when in high range (it automatically locks in low range in factory configuration). You should have the center diff locked for your trip. Adding the switch is a 10 minute plug-n-play project that any 80 should have. The boys at Cruiser Outfitters or Valley Hybrids can set you up. Read here on 'mud on how to install.
AussieHJCruza
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If you don't have the CDL switch, read up on the forum about locking the CDL by putting the vehicle into low range and removing a fuse. You will need to do this to drive without the front driveshaft.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
- Thread starter
- #12
What does that mean for my vehicle? Did the PO activate it somehow? The light on my dash works normal when I switch in/out of 4L, but it wasn't on when I was driving with just the rear DS.
AgentOrange
TLCA #28372
No. You have a viscous coupler in your transfer case. You're able to drive around town for testing a little because it is sending torque to the front axle since it sees the rear slipping because there is no rear drive shaft. If I remember right, doing that on a long drive can cook the VC. The center diff has an actuator that locks it when you shift into low range, or when told to for those of us with the switch. To do what you want to do, shift into low range and let the center lock, then pull the fuse. Then you can shift back into high range and the center diff will remain locked until you put the fuse back
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
You have a lot of reading to do I think. As in reading various faqs and tech sources, not just asking questions and chatting in the forums.
There ain't no such thing as a "triple locker". "Triple locked" is a slightly misleading phrase that has kinda blossomed in the forums.
All full time 4 wheel drive rigs have a center diff. And they all have the capability to lock that center diff. They are all "single locked" if you will. Guys just think that it sounds cooler to say "triple locked" than saying "I have the locking axle differentials". I guess.
What you do not have are the axle differential lockers.
IIRC from scanning through your previous thread, you have a 95-97 FZJ80. This means that you have a viscous coupler in the center diff. Think of it like a limited slip. Sort of. In factory configuration, your center diff is never locked in high range. It is always locked in low range.
If you drive in high range with no front driveshaft and the (factory norm) center diff unlocked, you will be loading (and heating) the viscous coupler. It will slip and feel like your tranny is dying at low speeds. It will adversely effect fuel consumption and power. More importantly, over a long distance like this is will damage your viscous coupler. Possibly to the point of failure.
If you do the simple mods to enable locking the center (transfercase) differential, then (with it locked) you can drive with no front driveshaft for as far as you chose.
I would have though that this was all discussed in that other thread when removing your DS for diagnosis came up. It should have been.
For a quick and dirty field expedient solution to get you home when you need to drive without a front DS and you have not done anything to enable locking the enter diff in high range.... Pop your hazard switch out of the dash and unplug it. Find the foam wrapped plug behind the dash in the same area (probably off to the left an inch or three. The is the factory wiring harness for a center differential lock switch. As it happens, it shares the same pattern as the hazards lights switch. If you plug the hazard lights switch into this harness, it becomes a center diff lock switch. You may or may not need to put the hazard switch into the slot next to it (intended for the OEM enter diff lock switch) in order for the wires to reach.
Now you can take your road trip with the center diff locked and the front driveshaft removed if you need to.
Mark
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #15
Yep, that's definitely true. And I think part of my format for learning is through chatting, so kudos to the kind individuals who take the time to answer beaten down horse questions.
For now, I've used the fuse "trick" to keep the CDL engaged, while I drive with only the rear DS, until I can get and install the CDL switch.
I HATE the term Triple locked! Makes my skin crawl!
TP? lol!
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as someone who rocks "TRPLOK" on my plates this made me chuckle
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Would your skin even be able to crawl if it weren't triple locked?
