- Thread starter
- #21
Well, its official, even at smart shopper prices, it would be over $110 to create this harness from new parts.
Can I buy OEM connectors? Installing remote starter...
- Thread starter firetruck41
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #23
Yes, I'm sure it is possible, and it would be next step, except I have a PM into 96r50 about his offer in a post above. If it weren't for the splices/terminals it would be no problem to buy OEM. Its hard to believe a 6" piece of wire with an uninsulated terminal is so expensive ($4-5).
Ben,
I'm sure many readers here have the port-installed RS3000 alarm system in their rigs but would be interested in upgrading to a more modern system like the Viper 5701. So please be sure to post up once your install is completed.
I'm sure many readers here have the port-installed RS3000 alarm system in their rigs but would be interested in upgrading to a more modern system like the Viper 5701. So please be sure to post up once your install is completed.
- Thread starter
- #26
I intend to do a write up. The alarm part was tough to figure out how to wire the door locks, door triggers, and parking lights. I think the starter harness will be easier to figure out. One thing that may be a problem, is that 96r50 is sending me part of his rs3000 harness that tied into the ignition, but my rs3000 harness did not tie into the ignition at all. So, the LX450 (mine) may be different than the LC. I will do a writeup when I am all done, and hopefully others can use it, or compare it to what they have. I am hopeful that my writeup will be very helpful, even if the harnesses are slightly different.
I have tested the two way communication of the alarm/fob to check arm/disarm status from about 1/2 mile away, in downtown Portland, with all kinds of midrise building in the way. In fact, I have not been out of range from it yet, that includes in a costco, and in the bombshelter basement of a building a block away from the truck. It is just a tad better than the 6 ft radius of the RS3000
, heck, half the time I couldn't unlock while standing at the tailgate with my hand on the handle, with the RS3000.
I have tested the two way communication of the alarm/fob to check arm/disarm status from about 1/2 mile away, in downtown Portland, with all kinds of midrise building in the way. In fact, I have not been out of range from it yet, that includes in a costco, and in the bombshelter basement of a building a block away from the truck. It is just a tad better than the 6 ft radius of the RS3000
, heck, half the time I couldn't unlock while standing at the tailgate with my hand on the handle, with the RS3000.
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How is your install coming?
I realized after removing some panels to wire up my sub-tank that Best Buy used the "T" connectors on my alarm. I want to reconnect each connection to ensure connection security and free up some space in the kick panel.
Those "T" connectors take up too much space and require stuffing the harnesses into the openings.
How were you connecting all? Solder or factory style clamp splices. IMHO either are better than the "T" connectors.
I realized after removing some panels to wire up my sub-tank that Best Buy used the "T" connectors on my alarm. I want to reconnect each connection to ensure connection security and free up some space in the kick panel.
Those "T" connectors take up too much space and require stuffing the harnesses into the openings.
How were you connecting all? Solder or factory style clamp splices. IMHO either are better than the "T" connectors.
- Thread starter
- #28
I finished it up about a week and a half ago, works great. I ended up soldering most connections, I think that was the best way to go, especially with the ignition/starter connections. I wouldn't worry too much about the T-taps, if they were just the alarm/keyless wires.
There are drawbacks to soldering too, especially on connections that a t-tap crimp connector would be used. This style connection usually has to be insulated with electrical tape if you solder. Electrical tape can get hot and peel of leaving the connection exposed. If your just doing one wire to another then yeah solder and heat-shrink it. Just my two cents.
I use heat shrink like condoms. Always.