Can I Avoid Removing The Cables When Replacing the Throttle Body Coolant Line?

[bicycleagent003]

Hey Team,

I am replacing the throttle body coolant line on my 1FZ-FE engine (which I should have done when I cleaned the throttle body last summer, but got lazy and did not want to get under the engine...bad choice in hindsight) and I'm trying to budget my weekend time. Can I get away with lifting up the throttle body a little and getting the old hose off and new one on without removing the cables attached to the rear of the throttle body? I find those things to be a real PITA and I'd like to avoid dealing with them again. I just can't remember if I really have to remove the throttle body or if I can just move it around a bit and get to that hose and clamp on the throttle body end of the hose.

Thanks
Russ

 

[NLXTACY]

Are you talking about the kickdown and accel cables? Those are pretty easy to remove/replace.

Edit: but a direct answer to your question is I don't recall off hand.

 

[Cruiser Ed]

Yup. Just did this last weekend. If I recall correctly, you undo one front coolant line, 3 electrical connectors and a couple vacuum plugs. Then undo the 4 bolts and the thing moves over.

 

[blkprj80]

Take good close up pictures from above before you remove any cables, if you decide to remove them.
The nice part about removing them is that you can get your T-body on a bench and give it a good cleaning while you have it out.

Unless yours happens to be clean for some strange reason... Mine was't.

 

[Cruiser Ed]

Oh yeah, and here's a tip that might save you time. Before you yank the rear coolant hose out of the engine, remember how it is threaded towards the bottom. I had to fish mine down about 4 times because I forgot to take notice how it was positioned in regards to the fuel rail and other wires and hoses.

 

[bicycleagent003]

Thanks, guys. I'm hoping to take some pics before I pull the hose to get mine fished down there the right way the first time (thanks for that tip), and based on the advice you've given me I think I can do it without removing the cables. If not, I'll use the tape trick on the threads.

 

[Tredwards]

Very easy to do without removing cables. I prefer to do it that way. Also I had to use a small pair of vice grips to hold the hose clamp on the coolant line while sliding it on the nipple under the intake plenum. Once in place just release.

 

[bicycleagent003]

Here's my after action report on replacing this hose, for other who might read this post later.
It's not too hard to replace this hose with the TB in place, though you must unbolt the TB and remove some vacuum hoses, and a couple electrical connections. As another poster stated above, the route the hose takes can be unclear if you've already removed your old hose. My suggestion is to route your new hose while the old one is still in place, so they're next to each other. Once you confirm the route looks good, detach the hose one end at a time and get the clamps on, and you're done. I like the clamps from the dealer because they fit perfectly, and they have a little red clip you pop off to release tension once you have the clip where you want it. That's worth a few bucks to me.
Finally, I suggest getting your truck up on jack stands and removing the driver's side wheel to get to the bottom side of the hose. I think it would be pretty tough to get the bottom side of the hose without taking that wheel off.
This job took me about two hours and I was taking my time, fiddling with other stuff along the way.

 

[Surfdc]

Sorry to resurrect this thread but do you have to drain coolant first?
thanks in advance as I now have to do this!

 

[Tedward]

Not really. I remember not much loss at all. That hose is up near the top.

 

[Rwhat]

Sorry to resurrect this thread but do you have to drain coolant first?
thanks in advance as I now have to do this!

No, don’t need to drain coolant.

 

[JohnVee]

Sorry to resurrect this thread but do you have to drain coolant first?
thanks in advance as I now have to do this!

I did not, but I was already low from a rupture in the line I was replacing! I wouldn't think it would be necessary anyway.

 

[Surfdc]

Excellent. Thanks guys. Less mess on garage floor is always nice! What style clamp do you all recommend for the block end?

 

[bicycleagent003]

Excellent. Thanks guys. Less mess on garage floor is always nice! What style clamp do you all recommend for the block end?

I only use the spring steel constant tension style clamps (which I prefer even over the Breeze clamps, which I find too pricey and cumbersome). Often an OEM one I am reusing (they often still seem to be good), and it it's not in a tricky spot where going back in is going to suck (think PHH), I'll just reuse the original clamp. Failing that, or if I am replacing the original hose a Gates version or other non-OEM, I usually find the outside diameter is different enough that I need a new clamp. I have bought several sizes of these clamps on Amazon and they are fantastic, as good as OEM in my opinion.
Amazon product ASIN B0040CYVOK

 

[Rwhat]

Replace it with a longer hose. Makes throttle body removal easier in the future.

 

[Surfdc]

I only use the spring steel constant tension style clamps (which I prefer even over the Breeze clamps, which I find too pricey and cumbersome). Often an OEM one I am reusing (they often still seem to be good), and it it's not in a tricky spot where going back in is going to suck (think PHH), I'll just reuse the original clamp. Failing that, or if I am replacing the original hose a Gates version or other non-OEM, I usually find the outside diameter is different enough that I need a new clamp. I have bought several sizes of these clamps on Amazon and they are fantastic, as good as OEM in my opinion.
Amazon product ASIN B0040CYVOK

Excellent. Thanks for that link. I too am starting to move away from breeze clamps for same reasons.

 

[lp2k]

Ditto: do not need to remove the cables. just be careful and take your time. those bolts (2 of them) under the throttle you better have a magnet on the socket because it can fall into the abyss. spend more time looking for the bolt then the whole job.

bonus points: that other PHH #2, use the OEM clamp so you can set it and yank the clip off and set it perfect. no need to wrestle on setting that dumb clamp right. you will see it and set it from the driver side wheel well.

 

[Surfdc]

For those that have done this hose, is it a pre-formed hose I have to get from Toyota? Or can I use a length of strait hose?
Thanks is advance!

 

[lp2k]

they are preformed and yes from toyota.

 

[Surfdc]

For those that have done this hose, is it a pre-formed hose I have to get from Toyota? Or can I use a length of strait hose?
Thanks is advance!

Thank you!!