Cam's FJ60 Gets Sprung

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Just for the record, I run my Slee arms with a 4 inch lift. So I may have too much caster but it steers and tracks great on the freeway.

Coming with the OE bushings is nice, you receive the arms and bolt them in in about an hour. Done.
 
Maybe I just need to drop some height and get the stock height
Cruiserdrew said:
Just for the record, I run my Slee arms with a 4 inch lift. So I may have too much caster but it steers and tracks great on the freeway.

Coming with the OE bushings is nice, you receive the arms and bolt them in in about an hour. Done.
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Yours felt good when I drove it. I like to drive fast on the interstate. While I'm texting. So I need it to be pretty stable and not trying to change lanes on me when I'm not looking at the road.

The Slee arms are definitely sexy. And fresh bushings is a big plus. Had you already hacked up your brackets for plates? I'm thinking I'd need to reinforce the front bolt hole.

I'm also looking around at softer springs F/R. I rode back from MS with my old tires & wheels and didn't quite get the Cadillac ride I was after. Softer springs would squeeze a little more articulation out of it too.

I may be back in the 4" lift territory when it's done.
 
Not sure how it would affect everything else, but since your front arms are bolted to the frame, could you install a spacer plate or shim to work the angles from that end? Kind of like the drop brackets, but you can shim it to get what you need for the interim and that way if you drop it down you can just pull you shims.

Am I missing something else?
 
FJ60Cam said:
The Slee arms are definitely sexy. And fresh bushings is a big plus. Had you already hacked up your brackets for plates? I'm thinking I'd need to reinforce the front bolt hole.
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I'm on front axle #2 and so have a brand new housing with unmolested brackets. Axle #1 met an unfortunate end in the Mojave Desert when I wasn't there.
 
jynx said:
Not sure how it would affect everything else, but since your front arms are bolted to the frame, could you install a spacer plate or shim to work the angles from that end? Kind of like the drop brackets, but you can shim it to get what you need for the interim and that way if you drop it down you can just pull you shims.

Am I missing something else?
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I thought about that, but it would need to be a 2-4" drop, which means introducing extra leverage, two more welds and another set of bolts into the failure equation. I would feel as confident about hammering it on things.

Cruiserdrew said:
I'm on front axle #2 and so have a brand new housing with unmolested brackets. Axle #1 met an unfortunate end in the Mojave Desert when I wasn't there.
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You are very generous when it comes to letting other people tear up your trucks!
 
FJ60Cam said:
I thought about that, but it would need to be a 2-4" drop, which means introducing extra leverage, two more welds and another set of bolts into the failure equation. I would feel as confident about hammering it on things.
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Gotcha, I didn't know what that distance would need to be on the other end to gain a couple degrees.
 
Cam i love my slee arms as well! I know they are $$ but in retrospect all the time and $$ you are going to spend trying to get good castor, in the end these are the real solution.

NOTICE: i have said to the slee guys that they are false advertising the "OE" bushing. When i got mine with "OE" bushings they were polly and not OE. I called them and kind of got the glazed over response that they should of been OE and that they haven't had any problems with them... Anyways, make sure if you want OE bushings you order them from Beno and get the arms without the bushings.
 
concretejungle said:
Cam i love my slee arms as well! I know they are $$ but in retrospect all the time and $$ you are going to spend trying to get good castor, in the end these are the real solution.

NOTICE: i have said to the slee guys that they are false advertising the "OE" bushing. When i got mine with "OE" bushings they were polly and not OE. I called them and kind of got the glazed over response that they should of been OE and that they haven't had any problems with them... Anyways, make sure if you want OE bushings you order them from Beno and get the arms without the bushings.
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That's what I did with my slee arms. Ordered blank and installed my own OEM rubber bushings.
 
The Slee arms are definitely the only way to roll. If I add more with bushings or the bearings, I'll have tie rod/arm interference (wasn't thinking clearly about that earlier).

For now, and I expect to catch even more hell from y'all than I already have from Andy ;), I am going to try a set of the OME stock height springs.

That should put me more in line with a 3-4" lift. It should put the caster right in spec, and make the driveshafts happy.

The spring rate on those is between a med & heavy, so that should be better as well.

I never expected to get the springs right on the first try, but got pretty excited when it looked like they would.
 
desertdude said:
What are you running for a front DS ?
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A 60/80 frankenshaft :evil laugh:

The main tube is an 80 (lucked out and it is EXACTLY the same length as my modified front shaft) to mate with the pinion flange, the slip end is the FJ62 to mate with the t-case (the slip splines are the same).

When I get the front locker installed, I will get a dual-drilled pinion flange for the front diff that will allow me to run both the 60 & 80 main tube. I will carry a spare main tube, which is the most likely to pretzel.
 
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wngrog said:
The way you like to run heavy on trips go ahead and get 866 rears.

Trust me on this.
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dnp said:
I agree w/ Nolen. VERY good all-around spring for lift/load/ride.
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I'll take your words for it that it is a good spring, but looking at the CO OME spring table, those have a 240-300 lb/in rate. I'm guessing they are progressive. But I'll think they'll be too stiff and/or not flex.

Cruiser Outfitters

The 250 lb/in rate of these 863s is more than enough. I had it loaded down with over 400 lbs of tires/wheels/diffs/tools (measured after) and it did not ride like a caddy like I was expecting nor sink down much at all.

The ones I've ordered are 240 lb/in, but shorter. I still think I'll end up with a 4" lift off of these.

There's also some 220 lb'ers in a variety of heights if the new ones are too firm.

I'm thinking a 220-250 progressive would be the ideal range for how I use it.

I'm measuring 6" of lift over stock 60 height compared to some (possibly wrong) hub to fender measurements I found in the main 60 page. Based on my caster numbers & bumstop heights, it's around 6" compared to an 80 as well.
 
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It looks cool as sh!t though!

image.webp
 
Cruiserdrew said:
My avatar picture is not me driving...I think @beno has the full size shot. Some old guy was driving it then.
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Didn't some European dudes blow the motor in NV?
 
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