Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Any progress on the "other" axle now that it's March?
Cam's FJ60 Gets Sprung
- Thread starter FJ60Cam
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #742
Not really. I've collected all the parts for it though. I just practiced tearing down the other "other" axle last night, so I know what I'm up against.
I want to have it done this month so I'll only have the front axle left to do the front in April.
- Thread starter
- #743
Huge thanks to the gang at 49Tire for squeezing me in at the end of a busy day.
First, the $$$ shot - I went with the 315 BFG KO2s on a set of 40th wheels I got from @jrob
These are so much smoother @ quieter on the interstate. I got it up to about 90 and they were super smooth. Super glad I went with the ATs.
On to the nerd stuff...
Even with the caster plates, she's still a little squirrelly. Not so much on the street, but it is a little hairy on the interstate. So I had Chris throw it on the alignment machine.
It has about zero degrees of caster. I think spec is 2-4 degrees, so I'll need to do something about that.
They have a really fancy 4 wheel alignment machine with wireless cameras and sh!t. They checked it all the way around and it looks like we got the axles lined up & welded on pretty square. Which is great news, because that would be a b!tch to fix!!!
I'm not really sure what all of these fancy stuff means, but I think some of it can be improved by adjusting the rear panhard (it's still a little off). Rocky, the tech, really liked the numbers.
Since the new tires are so much smoother, I'm now picking up what I'm guessing is a grumpy rear driveshaft (unless it's the donor pinion). I'll need to mess with the UCAs to change the pinion angle.
I've got a few more things to tweak before its just totally bitchen, but it's still not too bad considering that this is just a giant Frankenstein lab experiment.
First, the $$$ shot - I went with the 315 BFG KO2s on a set of 40th wheels I got from @jrob
These are so much smoother @ quieter on the interstate. I got it up to about 90 and they were super smooth. Super glad I went with the ATs.
On to the nerd stuff...
Even with the caster plates, she's still a little squirrelly. Not so much on the street, but it is a little hairy on the interstate. So I had Chris throw it on the alignment machine.
It has about zero degrees of caster. I think spec is 2-4 degrees, so I'll need to do something about that.
They have a really fancy 4 wheel alignment machine with wireless cameras and sh!t. They checked it all the way around and it looks like we got the axles lined up & welded on pretty square. Which is great news, because that would be a b!tch to fix!!!
I'm not really sure what all of these fancy stuff means, but I think some of it can be improved by adjusting the rear panhard (it's still a little off). Rocky, the tech, really liked the numbers.
Since the new tires are so much smoother, I'm now picking up what I'm guessing is a grumpy rear driveshaft (unless it's the donor pinion). I'll need to mess with the UCAs to change the pinion angle.
I've got a few more things to tweak before its just totally bitchen, but it's still not too bad considering that this is just a giant Frankenstein lab experiment.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Nice PIG!!! Your truck looks OK too. How about more pics of the 55?
That caster is going to be squirrely, the bigger the tires, the more squirrels you get. I know the budget is already on life support, but maybe some Slee arms? Temporary solution, plates plus caster bushings?
That caster is going to be squirrely, the bigger the tires, the more squirrels you get. I know the budget is already on life support, but maybe some Slee arms? Temporary solution, plates plus caster bushings?
That's what I did plates+ caster bushings.
Im going with Slee arms next....
The rear DS noise could a lot of things.
Over time I did; U-joints, LCA bushings, rebuilt rear axle and still had that lil annoying sound, until I went DC on the DS..
Looking good Cam..!!
- Thread starter
- #748
I'm thinking of doing the caster knuckle bearings that Kurt sells. That would put me at 3 degrees. I've got to rebuild the front anyway. Thoughts?
How boutcha @cruiseroutfit ? How do those hold up long term? Is this a good application?
How boutcha @cruiseroutfit ? How do those hold up long term? Is this a good application?
- Thread starter
- #749
NOW you tell me it took all that
The plates made a huge difference - a few degrees more would be $$$. A cut 'n turn would be free but time consuming. The bearings would be the easiest, but are kinda expensive.
For the rear, can I just point the rear pinion at the t-case, or is it more involved than that?
- Thread starter
- #750
That would be @wct49 's, the proprietor of 49Tire (great folks btw) and it's a super user grade PIG specimen.
PIG THREAD
- Thread starter
- #753
That's why I was considering the knuckle bearings, since it would only rotate the knuckle.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Slee arms. They are great. By the time you do the janky for awhile, you could have been 100% with Slee arms the whole time. I think because the 60 is lighter than an 80, especially with a much lighter motor, you have the equivalent of a 5-6 inch lift. Thus, you need caster correction that would only normally be needed with a big lift.
The problem I see with the CC knuckle bearings, is that it forces the use of a smaller bearing (that's how it works, the race is eccentric with a smaller bearing). That's OK for street driven trucks, but this one is going to tackle some difficult terrain.
The rear geometry is tougher(well actually, easier). Most 80's are good with parallel flanges, so you don't need a DC driveshaft. If you point the pinion at the t-case (minus 1-2 degrees to account for wrap under power) you will absolutely need a DC driveshaft.
Nice to have a Cruiser friendly tire shop!
The problem I see with the CC knuckle bearings, is that it forces the use of a smaller bearing (that's how it works, the race is eccentric with a smaller bearing). That's OK for street driven trucks, but this one is going to tackle some difficult terrain.
The rear geometry is tougher(well actually, easier). Most 80's are good with parallel flanges, so you don't need a DC driveshaft. If you point the pinion at the t-case (minus 1-2 degrees to account for wrap under power) you will absolutely need a DC driveshaft.
Nice to have a Cruiser friendly tire shop!
Wish someone had stated this to me back when.....
Im running 5" of lift between coils and spacers, but Im sure its more like 6",
Thus, after going full circle Im going with slee arms....
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Good call. I messed around with caster bushings, plates, and barely adequate caster for a long time. The minute I did the Slee arms, I got to relax. In retrospect, I should have done that first.
- Thread starter
- #758
Looks I need to get a short term sugar-girlfriend on the side to supplement my allowance.