Builds CAMPTEQ's 80 Series Pop top Prototype

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I don't plan on having a sink in mine, just two water taps, one inside and one on the outside .
Shower access will be through the second passenger door where the heat exchanger will be located.
A 12v diaphragm water pump will supply pressure for the system.
 
Also looking at a Front Runner behind the seat floor board 10 gallon water tank for our water needs.
In the past we have been just fine with six gallons but with having a shower system we are going to a total of fifteen
10.5 in water tank and 4.2 in hot water heater. Mixing valve will draw from hot and cold water sources plus I will add a
second valve to draw from an exterior cold water source like a bucket!

Footwell Water Tank - by Front Runner

Hopefully this tank fits!!!!
 
Also looking at a Front Runner behind the seat floor board 10 gallon water tank for our water needs.
In the past we have been just fine with six gallons but with having a shower system we are going to a total of fifteen
10.5 in water tank and 4.2 in hot water heater. Mixing valve will draw from hot and cold water sources plus I will add a
second valve to draw from an exterior cold water source like a bucket!

Footwell Water Tank - by Front Runner

Hopefully this tank fits!!!!

7 gals of my water uses the same floor space and it stays warm just because of its placement.:eek: It my secondary water so its not an issue.

For your hot/cold adjustable needs this is an excellent water efficient set up with many uses.
https://www.amazon.com/Bullfinch-Sh...ocphy=9061153&hvtargid=pla-584105977169&psc=1
 
After spending many of nights in a Maltec cabin its a game changer over any RTT. I look forward to cutting my roof after my doors get installed.
Phil I believe that the barn doors dont' fit exactly on the USA 80s and also require some strengthening. Be interested to see when you start
 
for the "goose" layout - is that your truck or someone elses. Looks good. Any more links/pics?
Thanks
 
reply to wrong post, deleted
 
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for the "goose" layout - is that your truck or someone elses. Looks good. Any more links/pics?
Thanks

Here is the link for that build/adventure

 
Phil I believe that the barn doors dont' fit exactly on the USA 80s and also require some strengthening. Be interested to see when you start

Is your info first hand? If so what exactly does not fit?
From my research I do agree 100% the backing is not in place for the hinges and will need to provided
 
Is your info first hand? If so what exactly does not fit?
From my research I do agree 100% the backing is not in place for the hinges and will need to provided
From Craddock (UK TLC 80 owner/workshop) that has taken in Aussie 80s into UK
 
From Craddock (UK TLC 80 owner/workshop) that has taken in Aussie 80s into UK
What does he say? I'm listening, my research and pictures say they fit but will require some bracing.

I have 60+ pictures of installed doors with details and measurements I have personally done. Almost ever Land Cruiser in Tunisia had barn doors. Because all the hinges on the doors Im getting are new with part numbers still attached it has been speculated they replaced a lift gate/hatch.

1898036


1898040


1898041


1898042
 
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Phil, sounds like you have better info with all that R&D. If find anything specific will let u know
 
Reviving an old thread here. I'm in the middle of Campteq/Troopy-style 80 conversion and I'm looking at different ways to insulate the top.

I saw the LCP had used a high density foam board and that DirtSunrise voted that the most effective heat protection was white RV roof paint on the top.

Any other ideas out there? Anyone had any success in the 2.5yrs this thread has been slumbering?

IMG_2898.jpg
 
We run ours without paint or insulation on an uncut roof and its fine. We travel in deserts in winter and high country in summer, not hotter than 90s by day or colder than teens by night. Once the sun goes down the aluminum cools quickly, so I find it's fine for sleeping at night.
 
Reviving an old thread here. I'm in the middle of Campteq/Troopy-style 80 conversion and I'm looking at different ways to insulate the top.

I saw the LCP had used a high density foam board and that DirtSunrise voted that the most effective heat protection was white RV roof paint on the top.

Any other ideas out there? Anyone had any success in the 2.5yrs this thread has been slumbering?

View attachment 2773750

@c2dfj45 is using this as a headliner (along with some second skin products) in his troopy:

He has very positive things to say about it, and If it helps insulate the troopy it must work all right. You can see the install in his thread:
 
We run ours without paint or insulation on an uncut roof and its fine. We travel in deserts in winter and high country in summer, not hotter than 90s by day or colder than teens by night. Once the sun goes down the aluminum cools quickly, so I find it's fine for sleeping at night.
With the cut roof it will definitely increase temps when driving slowly and parked. NE US, 80 deg & sunny and it was radiating heat after 30min in the grocery store.


@c2dfj45 is using this as a headliner (along with some second skin products) in his troopy:

He has very positive things to say about it, and If it helps insulate the troopy it must work all right. You can see the install in his thread:
I used some Second Skin Spectrum on my floor/walls. Moderate sound deadening but I don't think much for thermal insulation based on my floor over the muffler. A bit but not enough.

Reading up on the rest. Thanks!
 

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