Cammed 2uz-fe With Clutch & Flywheel Issues (H151F Tranny)

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Joined
May 1, 2013
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1
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Location
Doha, Qatar
Hi everyone,

Im relatively new here, but i have been reading threads like crazy trying to figure out some issues with my car.

I have a 2001 Land Cruiser with a 2uz-fe engine. first step i did was change the transmission from auto to manual. I installed a used H151F tranny, with stock clutch. ECU and harness still belonging to the auto tranny setup.

Second step i did after several years was add TTC Performance 218 Camshafts :D, TTC Performance Valve Springs, Ported heads, Ported Intake Manifold, a custom fitted Q45 throttle body with an Airdaid intake, along with a full custom headers and exhaust system. I added an Exedy clutch (single) from Exedy Middle East in Dubai to handle the power, but a stock flywheel. We decided to remove the clutch fan and put two electrical fans against the radiator for more hp and better cooling. Lastly, for tuning, I used a Unichip piggyback, and added a small chip to increase redline to 6000rpm to finish the project off.

The car is powerful with more torque than the car can handle. I only race and put up with 5.7L Land cruiser, Sierra pickups and the 400hp Nissan Patrol. But mostly I take it to the desert for some fun on the dunes.


The Problem.........:mad:


The Stock flywheel im running right now is giving me noises and WILL NOT handle the current power. It couldn't even handle the power when i had a stock clutch when i first installed the H151F. With that, the Exedy clutch is running on hopes and dreams with this retarded stock flywheel. I have notices some slipping noise when i start the car in 2nd gear too.


I need a proper clutch and a proper flywheel. I have been searching for this combination for years and have yet to find actual VERIFIED answers regarding fitment, what clutch from what car goes on which car etc etc... Now I have done research on clutches used on the FZ 4.5L and found out through Toyota part numbers that they are the same size as the ones used on the 2uz-fe (Stock Clutch), but the flywheel is where its different as it is bigger on the 2uz. Does someone have any information on who supplies a clutch and flywheel for my car to handle the power?????
 
What problem exactly are you having with the stock flywheel? The factory flywheel should be able to handle the power no problem. Are you sure it is not the clutch that is going bad?
 
i don't have any input on your issues, but your engine sounds badass.
 
yes, all comments reserved until I see some pictures!!!! ;)
 
Actually I would love to see video. Especially of the racing. Wonder how it sounds.
 
I drive this car like a maniac on steroids. And with that comes some harsh gear changes. Sometimes I feel that the flywheel or clutch do not engage fast enough when i let the pedal go. when i installed the new Exedy clutch, and didn't put in a new flywheel. Maybe that's the issue. I doubt its the clutch, because if it was, with my driving, it would have failed already.

I just don't know what to do...
 
I'll post some videos up soon of the car, engine bay and some short accelerations. Dont have videos of races though, I dont have a b4 and after video :)
 
I'd like to replace my auto transmission with a manual one!
Can you speak about the transformation issues you had (if somes... I did not have a look under the dashboard, but my bigger interogation is about the clutch pedal)
 
The process was very easy and took about 3 days to complete. The least of your worries is the clutch pedal. There is enough space for it to go under the dash without any issues.

If you choose to change your transmission, the mechanic will have to change your brake pedal as well. I believe your automatic brake pedal is long diagonally, where as the brake pedal for a manual transmission is smaller for the clutch pedal to fit.

Another thing, the chassis/body where the gear leaver and the low/hi gear are, the spacing of the chassis (fitment of the transmission for you to access) is smaller for the auto than the manual. Your mechanic needs to shave off the edges of the chassis/body where your gear is for you to access the manual transmission, and basically for it to fit and for the leaver to move through gears freely.

The harness for the automatic gear will need to be taped and hidden away as you will not need them, all you will need is the speed sensor plug which is a direct fit to the manual transmission, and to wire the reverse so your reverse lights work. You will also need to change the cover of the gear inside the car as you just changed trannys.

THIS MESSAGE BELOW IS FOR EVERYONE WHO WISH TO DO A CONVERSION:

AS YOU KNOW, THE 2UZ-FE ONLY COMES IN AN FULL TIME ALL WHEEL DRIVE SYSTEM. WHAT I DID TO DELETE THAT WAS CHANGE THE CENTER DIFF WITH A 1FZ-FE 4.5L DIFF (1998-2007) SINGLE DIFF. SO BASICALLY YOU WILL END UP WITH ALL TIME RWD, AND WHEN YOU HIT THE 4WD SWITCH, IT WILL BECOME 4X4. FOR YOU TO USE ON THE DUNES AND SUCH.

BELIEVE ME WHEN I SAY THIS, ONE OF THE BEST MOVES I DID. THAT FULL TIME 4X4 SYSTEM FOR THE 2UZ-FE IS BS AND VERY ANNOYING. OF COURSE YOU WILL HAVE TO CHANGE THE DRIVE SHAFT (DS) DEPENDING ON CENTER DIFF AND YOUR LUCK. FOR ME, THE FRONT DS DID NOT CHANGE, HOWEVER THE BACK DS WAS CHANGED TO A 2011 LAND CRUISER MODEL AND IT FIT + WORKS GREAT. yOU MIGHT ALSO ENCOUNTER A PROBLEM WITH THE 4X4 SWITCH AS I DID, WHERE YOU MIGHT HAVE TO CHANGE THE RELAY SWITCH FOR THE 4X4 BUTTON.

This is exactly what i went through with the transmission change and Diff change.

Hopes this is helpful.

O.H.
 
Awesome info! That should be stickied....


For your flywheel, I don't see how changing that would result in a quicker engagement. A high performance one would only increase your throttle response while the clutch is engaged or disengaged. Sounds like a clutch issue or play in your drivetrain? Maybe sticky clutch cable? Or a hydraulic issue if its hydraulic. My old 350z would engage slowly when the hydraulic line had debris from the master cylinder failing. Maybe try a hydraulic flush?
 
So your AT ECU didn't care you were running a manual transmission? Didn't throw any codes?
 
Thanks for the info.
Next step is to find a tranny...
 
So your AT ECU didn't care you were running a manual transmission? Didn't throw any codes?

As with most Toyotas, you can run a manual trans with an automatic ECU.
 
Thanks, good to know.
 
krnnerdboy

Thanks for you feedback.

I will try and look into the clutch issue as this used to happen as well with the stock clutch. The throttle response is very limited when ever i disengage the clutch pedal. but when it starts moving and mid range rpm, then it start to pull hard...
 
So your AT ECU didn't care you were running a manual transmission? Didn't throw any codes?


The only codes that will appear in a OBD scanner is that your harness for the auto tranny are disconnected... Other than that, you're good to go!!
 
Any estimates on horsepower increase?

Pictures and video?
 
Last edited:
The process was very easy and took about 3 days to complete. The least of your worries is the clutch pedal. There is enough space for it to go under the dash without any issues.

If you choose to change your transmission, the mechanic will have to change your brake pedal as well. I believe your automatic brake pedal is long diagonally, where as the brake pedal for a manual transmission is smaller for the clutch pedal to fit.

Another thing, the chassis/body where the gear leaver and the low/hi gear are, the spacing of the chassis (fitment of the transmission for you to access) is smaller for the auto than the manual. Your mechanic needs to shave off the edges of the chassis/body where your gear is for you to access the manual transmission, and basically for it to fit and for the leaver to move through gears freely.

The harness for the automatic gear will need to be taped and hidden away as you will not need them, all you will need is the speed sensor plug which is a direct fit to the manual transmission, and to wire the reverse so your reverse lights work. You will also need to change the cover of the gear inside the car as you just changed trannys.

THIS MESSAGE BELOW IS FOR EVERYONE WHO WISH TO DO A CONVERSION:

AS YOU KNOW, THE 2UZ-FE ONLY COMES IN AN FULL TIME ALL WHEEL DRIVE SYSTEM. WHAT I DID TO DELETE THAT WAS CHANGE THE CENTER DIFF WITH A 1FZ-FE 4.5L DIFF (1998-2007) SINGLE DIFF. SO BASICALLY YOU WILL END UP WITH ALL TIME RWD, AND WHEN YOU HIT THE 4WD SWITCH, IT WILL BECOME 4X4. FOR YOU TO USE ON THE DUNES AND SUCH.

BELIEVE ME WHEN I SAY THIS, ONE OF THE BEST MOVES I DID. THAT FULL TIME 4X4 SYSTEM FOR THE 2UZ-FE IS BS AND VERY ANNOYING. OF COURSE YOU WILL HAVE TO CHANGE THE DRIVE SHAFT (DS) DEPENDING ON CENTER DIFF AND YOUR LUCK. FOR ME, THE FRONT DS DID NOT CHANGE, HOWEVER THE BACK DS WAS CHANGED TO A 2011 LAND CRUISER MODEL AND IT FIT + WORKS GREAT. yOU MIGHT ALSO ENCOUNTER A PROBLEM WITH THE 4X4 SWITCH AS I DID, WHERE YOU MIGHT HAVE TO CHANGE THE RELAY SWITCH FOR THE 4X4 BUTTON.

This is exactly what i went through with the transmission change and Diff change.

Hopes this is helpful.

O.H.
I actually have a thread posted about converting a land cruiser or a Lexus LX470 your input would be much appreciated.
I was wondering about H151F mating with the transfer case on the US spec VX models, also 2000 and up came with A-Trac, not sure if Middle East came with A-Trac since that year or if you had the locking diff option. Also 2005 onwards it had electronic throttle and the fuel tank pressure was also monitored via ECU, so not changing the ECU was even possible...? Automatic ECU may or may not be efficient with a manual transmission? On 4 runner swaps changing to manual ECU had positive results compared to Auto ECU, am I correct to assume the same with Land Cruisers?
Lastly can one person do this? I am not a mechanic I don’t quite have all the tools necessary but enough to pull it off (I think), do you think I could stay in touch at the time of the build Incase I run into something?

Here is my thread:
 

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