Camber 2018 LC200?
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Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Factory camber value is 0.13±0.75
If you have more wear on one side of your tire than the other, it could be any possible combination of your truck out of it’s acceptable range of caster, camber, or toe. An excessive cross-caster and toe’ed in situation with a perfect camber will also cause outer tire tread wear.
Unless you know how to do your own alignment, take it to a shop and have them confirm your truck’s is aligned.
If you have more wear on one side of your tire than the other, it could be any possible combination of your truck out of it’s acceptable range of caster, camber, or toe. An excessive cross-caster and toe’ed in situation with a perfect camber will also cause outer tire tread wear.
Unless you know how to do your own alignment, take it to a shop and have them confirm your truck’s is aligned.
I bought a 3 year unlimited alignment and tire balancing package from NTB not long after getting my 2016 in 2018. It would pull to right. I have had alignment checked every 10K miles since and seems they have to correct the alignment with each visit. I am about 5 to 10k from new tires and will renew the alignment package when that expires. Currently I have shudder when braking from high speed and I think it just tires are out of balance and getting worn out. Will find out in 2K miles at next oil change.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Post your alignment specs, maybe I can see a trend
also, the only way to get a perfect alignment is to reset the truck off, and back on the rack to confirm bind was not stored in components.
The problem is, that takes time, and very few shops care. Run it fast, get it done, get it out, gotta make more money.
also, most kids that sit on alignment racks know little more than, “make it green.” But you could still have a poor alignment.
also, the only way to get a perfect alignment is to reset the truck off, and back on the rack to confirm bind was not stored in components.
The problem is, that takes time, and very few shops care. Run it fast, get it done, get it out, gotta make more money.
also, most kids that sit on alignment racks know little more than, “make it green.” But you could still have a poor alignment.
Sorry to necropost, but is that "factory camber" spec for the front or the rear? Are they the same?
I walked up to my new-to-me 2018 LC today in a parking lot, from the front (for probably the first time), and I could swear I'm at significant positive camber in the front - at least +1, maybe +2 or +3 or more. I know it's not a GT3 Supercup or M2 or M3 Competition, but it looks WAY wrong, especially for such a tall vehicle.
I have stock wheels with Michelins of unknown vintage (spare is a Dunlop)...supposedly wheels/tires were rotated and 4 wheel alignment performed by the selling dealer in early April (just prior to my purchase). Given everything else that went wrong with this dealership and this purchase, I'm worried that I'm starting to chase my own shadow.
Yoikes - thanks for that info.
Mine is a suburb / around town / mall cruiser, daily driver, with some moderate highway trips (<350 miles) thrown in, a little very light towing (aluminum enclosed 5x10 motorcycle trailer) and 5-10 trips aired down oversand each year, but otherwise very little off road, at least for the near term. May run a separate set of rims with winter tires for 4 or so months a year, but will not be stepping up to AT tires.
I'm thinking that any positive camber in the front is probably undesirable from a stability perspective, but I'm likely ignorant of the tradeoffs embedded in Toyota's spec. I didn't see a mega thread on this, but maybe I missed it, so happy to be redirected elsewhere if this has already been addressed in depth.
Mine is a suburb / around town / mall cruiser, daily driver, with some moderate highway trips (<350 miles) thrown in, a little very light towing (aluminum enclosed 5x10 motorcycle trailer) and 5-10 trips aired down oversand each year, but otherwise very little off road, at least for the near term. May run a separate set of rims with winter tires for 4 or so months a year, but will not be stepping up to AT tires.
I'm thinking that any positive camber in the front is probably undesirable from a stability perspective, but I'm likely ignorant of the tradeoffs embedded in Toyota's spec. I didn't see a mega thread on this, but maybe I missed it, so happy to be redirected elsewhere if this has already been addressed in depth.
