Calling all 03-07 LX470 owners, VGRS survey, please read! (1 Viewer)

[shimian]

The question is “is VSC/ATRAC really disabled, every time those lights are lit?”.



It would depend on how you mean to disable it. I’ve seen posts about disconnecting the VGRS computer, that put the actuator in “fail safe”, and reportedly “everything was peachy”. I’ve seen other posts about disconnecting the VGRS computer “that didn’t fix a darn thing”. I’ve seen posts of people just driving it with VGRS “lit” in “fail safe”. If I ever reached the point that I wasn’t going to repair a faulty VGRS system, I’d be looking for a non-VGRS steering column.

VSC isn’t going to do much for you offroad, unless your idea of off-road is high speed dirt/gravel. ATRAC is useful a lower speed offroad.



If one were motivated enough, one could probably swap in a non-VGRS steering column. I’ve seen posts of “I’m going to do this”, but don’t recall anyone post that they had in fact done it.

Appreciate the reply. I guess the question then is “does the light on mean the feature is disabled”

Just trying to weigh the pros/cons of the LX over the LC and what eventually happens when these parts fail and don’t exist and does it truly disable other useful features such as VSC and ATRAC. I don’t want to get into a 100 this late in the game and come across an issue in a few years that severely limits some core functionality of it.

I wonder if anyone’s actually tested whether ATRAC works when the VGRS computer is unplugged.

 

[jLB]

Appreciate the reply. I guess the question then is “does the light on mean the feature is disabled”

Just trying to weigh the pros/cons of the LX over the LC and what eventually happens when these parts fail and don’t exist and does it truly disable other useful features such as VSC and ATRAC. I don’t want to get into a 100 this late in the game and come across an issue in a few years that severely limits some core functionality of it.

I wonder if anyone’s actually tested whether ATRAC works when the VGRS computer is unplugged.

I have not, but with ~17 years behind the wheel of an 06 LX, it really hasn’t been an issue. I probably wouldn’t buy a VGRS LX that had an issue (without a substantial discount), but I don’t think I’d necessarily avoid one just because it had VGRS either. One could also argue for/against AHC, or the electronic brake booster, as expensive repairs with limited parts. I have 3 of these vehicles, (2 w/o VGRS, and 1 with) and have no fear about driving any of them cross country, but I have maintained them properly.

My 06 LX, has had the timing belt replaced at ~53k mi (age/weeping water pump) , again at ~100k mi (age), and yet again at <115k miles, but is branded by my Lexus dealer as “a****** owner refuses to replace the timing belt again at the dealer”. While Lexus/Toyota service history is helpful, from my experience, I don’t know that I’d consider it gospel either.

Then again, my off-road toy is a 99 LX, with a 2-pinion front diff, no VSC, no ATRAC, and an aftermarket rear locker, and my DD is an 06 LX…

Maybe I have cognitive issues?

 

[2001LC]

Failure of VGRS actuator (#1 intermediate shaft), is extremely rare.

In looking into VGRS, speaking with Lexus parts departments and shop-foreman (reports). The only ones they're replacing, are on accident vehicles.

Note: VGRS is used in more models than just the LX.

Also worth a note:
TBS snap recall repair procedure, warns against blows towards steering wheel. It is referring to striking joints to release them, and when installing the snap ring. Which frontal accident may produce same results. It also a common "bad" practice. To use air hammer to release rack from intermediate shaft.

 

[slvrblt]

RE question #2:

My 2005 LX470 got a replacement cardone reman rack. They spec'd this rack for my VIN, but also for a 2005 LC, so I assume its a non-VGRS rack ($500ish price vs Lexus VGRS rack around $1400).

After about 100 miles, the trifecta of VSC and VGRS lights came on. Then after maybe 50-100 more, they went off. Intermittently over the next 50 miles, VGRS light came on. Then off for a couple hundred miles. VGRS came back on and after making a slow sweeping right hand turn, the steering wheel was off by about 45 degrees and VGRS light on solid. Drive fine, but was annoying.

I couldn't get the codes to clear with TechStream (C1528 Actuator and C1561 Lock Mechanism); actually C1528 would clear but not C1561. You can only calibrate steering angle when either none or a certain handful of codes are present (C1515, C1516, C1532, C1568).

I took it back to the shop and after several attempts, their Autel device cleared the codes and calibrated steering angle/VGRS. However, after about 250 more miles driving around town, and taking a left turn in my neighborhood, the steering wheel is off by about 90 degrees.

Tonight I read about Zero Point Calibration under ABS/VSC being potentially helpful, so I did that and then VGRS calibration. A 2 mile test drive was successful, but it's too soon to call that conclusive.


And, the number of full turns of the steering wheel with the engine on in park is inconsistent... Tonight sitting in my garage: 1.25 to the right and 1.125 to the left (so about 45 degrees difference)... and then checked a couple more times and now its 1.4 to the right and 1.2 to the left.


So, I wonder:

1. If the shop got the tie rods right.
2. How bad the upper and lower ball joints are; I know they're leaking a bit.


Overall, now I wonder if a lot of steering problems stem from a combination of other aging components that aren't replaced with the rack triggering the VGRS and/or VSC issues-- and computers just getting confused by the front end being out of spec.

 

[cxk675123491]

I want to share my experience, 06 lx470 262600 miles, original rack, no recall performed from dealer history.
My experience with VGRS is as follows:
There were some period of time my alignment was off to the left like 10-15 degrees, just city drive is ok, but whenever go to highway speed, then drove off the offramp, the steering becomes very very heavy to turn like no assists (I feel it is the VGRS motor is counter steering for me). The solution to this is do an alignment, then recalibrate the VGRS sensor, so far no more this issue.

 

[2001LC]

VSC & TRAC, is controlled ABS. The VSC & TRAC OFF with activation of ABS (braking the faster turning wheels). Can be activate by loose component's. Such as:
Sloppy Rack & Pinion bushing,
Loose/bad TREs
Bad ball joint(s)
Busted/bad sock(s)
AHC set to soft (low pressure)
Loose wheel bearing (commonly set off ABS)
Bad alignment.

The ABS system may activate, jerking steering. This can be due to a fault. Wherein, it may happens so fast, we don't see dash lights. This condition, doesn't happen much in a pure stock 03-07LX w/VGRS. It has been report a few times in modified (delete) AHC 03-07LX. I've not yet had the opportunity, to track down and correct the cause.

What I "now" (subject to change) believe. The the VGRS Rack & Pinion. Has a slightly different gears ratio, that's all. That using a non VGRS rack, will not damaging actuator. It "may" add a little strain resulting in heat, so "may" oversized tries. The Actuator "should" be able to handle, some extra strain that "may" be added. A very active actuator, where it changing gearing often rapidly, will also create heat. As I recall, without review: Speed, declaration, steering angle, braking, ABS, ect. all have effects on actuator, via CPU. Any of which having, may results a more active actuator (heat).

VGRA actuator is very robust and rarely fail. I've spoken with a few Lexus parts department, and learned: VGRS actuators are rarely ordered.

What will damage actuator, is impact to intermediate shaft(s in direction of actuator. This can be from an accident, with front end impact. By pounding on intermediate shaft(s) in direction of actuator. Very often a shop, while replacing R&P. Use an air hammer, pounding intermediate shaft in direction of actuator, to separate from R&P input shaft. A damaged actuator, may not engage or may just run hot. If heat exceeds limit. It goes into failsafe and locks, become like non VRGS gearing/steering. We do not get any dash lights when this happens. The actuator, during normal operation, may go in and out of failsafe to cool. We don't usually even notice.

VGRS not properly calibrated, may also create more heat. Over time, may also add to damage or damage actuator.

1. Align vehicle, is a good first step. May be a must if alignment is off.
2. Zero point calibration.
3. In tech stream, ACH date. Clear any DTC & Rec. You need DTC 0 and all Unrec (REC, is the one missed by most).
4. After driving "Straight Angle Valid flag" ahead & turns flag Inval, should be Valid.
5. Center street wheel, by following steps in tech stream. (This may also give Straight Angle Valid flag, so try before step 4, to save time)
6. Turn engine on, turn steering wheel LH to stop, than count rotations while turning to RH stop. We get ~2.4 turns, which indicates actuator engaged. Return the center, then turn engine off.
7. Start engine, turn steering wheel 90 degrees to LH, return to center. Then 90 degrees to RH and back to center. Keep steering wheel centered 3 sec or more, then turn engine off.
8. Start engine. While turning slowly to the LH from steering wheel center position, stop engine (IG to ACC) and keep turning for 3 second after engine off. Repeat 15 times.

I like to then drive, see all date is good (No DTC, invalid flags or Rec). The redo zero point again, when all done. We need wheels straight ahead, steering wheel centered and on level ground. While zero point calibrating.

See: 1 Invalid, 1 Rec & 1 DTC each displayed. All need correcting before calibration.