CA Smog Check time for my FJ40- any suggestions? (1 Viewer)

[kupa]

I need to smog test my stock 2F 49-state, non catalytic 130,000 mile 78 FJ40 this week, and am looking for any suggestions to help pass. I'm in Santa Cruz which doesn't have as stringent a test as other areas in the state: i.e. no rolling dyno, just an idle sniff and a 2500 rpm sniff, plus a visual inspection.

I'll be doing the obvious stuff- carb tune-up according the factory emission book, a general tune-up and oil change so that's it's in top running state, but what else can I do to get through the test without any issues?

Any additives to the fuel that will help? Any other tricks?

Thanks in advance...

Cheers!

 

[swank60]

There's stuff you're supposed to be able to get from Pep Boys or Walmart or where ever that says you're guaranteed to pass. I can't think of the name of the stuff, but it's supposed to work.

 

[kupa]

any other feedback?

 

[Rocky_LC]

Most of the Smog Check stations will let you come in and get a "pre-test" or something for about $20, and if the guy is helpful, they usually will tweak it in if you aren't too far out of range.

It might be worth your while, or it might be a waste of $20 if it passes the first time. You might want to call around and see.

Try and make it look like everything is hooked up and there (even if it isn't all working).

Good Luck

Rocky

 

[Cruiserdrew]

This is one of those bend over moments. First, get the truck really warm. I usually drive 20-30 minutes on the freeway. Then, pay for the pretest. That way if you fail, you can adjust timing, replace plugs etc. If you don't do the pretest and fail, you will be labled as a "gross polluter" which means a YEARLY test from now until the end of time. I would consider retarding the timing 1 or 2 degrees (lowered the NOX on mine), fresh tank of Chevron gas, and go for it. One other thing-make sure all the smog equiptment is present, like EGR valve, vsv,vacuum lines, air pump, stock air cleaner with warm air induction hooked up. State law does not mandate that it works, but it must be there. If you have headers, make sure they are the smog complient ones(yellow sticker) otherwise you will fail instantly on the visual. Smog testing is making me consider relocating to Nevada, but I hear they have instituted smog testing there. Another California export!

 

[kupa]

I went in for a pre-test yesterday and failed

Here are my CA pre-test emission results-

Idle = 486 rpm (my tach gauge is way off i guess, I set-it up for 650-680)

HC = 1392 ppm :: 250 ppm legal limit
NO = 43 ppm :: not a test requirement in our area
CO = 4.35% :: 2.5% legal limit
CO2 = 8.5% :: not a test requirement in our area
02 = 6.2% :: not a test requirement in our area

Soooo, with a high HC level and high CO % I must have a good amount of unburnt fuel. I have a hunch that my exhaust valves may not be in the best shape; that would certainly create high CO and HC numbers. I'll do a leakdown and compression test to see if there are issues with the exahaust valves.

I just did new plugs, cap and rotor, and adjusted the carb according to the factory emission and engine manuals. I timed it at idle, but as you can see by my idle number of 486, I had set timing at an idle lower than factory spec of 650 rpm.

Any other diagnostic tips for pin pointing why the HC and CO would be so high?

Cheers,

Cooper

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Bummer-The HC and CO are likely related and due to incomplete combustion. If I had to bet, I would say carberator. Someone mentioned running the tank dry and pouring in a gallon or 2 of coleman fuel. I have no idea if that helps or not. Good luck. Your only real hope is the 30 year sunset of the smog requirement. Go through the factory proceedure to do the "lean drop" idle adjustment. You will need the factory manual. Since the idle circuit is always on, if it is too rich it will affect all aspects of the smog test.

 

[kupa]

I didn't realize that the idle mixture system affected the full operational range. Good info- thanks!

I've got the full factory service manuals, including engine and emissions for 1978. I sprayed some carb cleaner at the base of the carb and it almost stalled at idle. There's some vaccum leak in the system and the idle mixture screw doesn't have as much effect as the manual implies it should when doing the lean drop adjustments.

I'll do a leakdown test today, check the vaccum and see if I can isolate the leak in the carb area. The coleman fuel tip sounds like a good way to clean up the fuel system. Isn't it Xylene?

 

[IDave]

With that vacuum leak, you'll have almost NO affect on idle mixture with the idle screw, since that is merely a controlled vacuum leak. I think you have good news here. Fix the vacuum leak, and you can actually tune your buggy. I'll bet you'll pass without the coleman fuel.

 

[kupa]

[quote author=IDave link=board=1;threadid=13952;start=msg130500#msg130500 date=1080774024]
With that vacuum leak, you'll have almost NO affect on idle mixture with the idle screw, since that is merely a controlled vacuum leak. I think you have good news here. Fix the vacuum leak, and you can actually tune your buggy. I'll bet you'll pass without the coleman fuel.
[/quote]

That is good news. With a carb related leak, you think a new base gasket or a rebuild kit would be in order? I like your hunches.

 

[djanis99]

Just some advice, I have no clue if it will work or not. I just finished emmisions class at my automotive school. Here it goes:

Add "Heat" to the gas two or three bottle to about a quarter tank of gas. Why you ask. Heat is pure alcohol, it keeps fuel from freezing but alcohol also burns super clean. No HCs or COs. After you pass your test fill up your tank the rest of the way to dilute the heat in your gas tank. Too much alcohol in your gas will cause the car to run rough.

I would also advance the timing slightly 2-3 degrees to give the fuel more time to burn before the exhaust valves open. the truck will run great with advanced timing but this isn't good for the engine. If you advance it too much your NOx will go up but the CO and HC will stay low.

Also make sure car is at operating temp and all before you go for the test

 

[IDave]

[quote author=kupa link=board=1;threadid=13952;start=msg130529#msg130529 date=1080776782]
That is good news. With a carb related leak, you think a new base gasket or a rebuild kit would be in order? I like your hunches.
[/quote]
You did the spray bit. You KNOW there is a leak at the base of the carb, or possibly the manifold in that region. You could just try torquing the nuts on the carb base and manifold studs and recheck with the carb spray. Or, you could replace the gasket(s). I would spray and watch closely to see where it is getting sucked in. You might also get a diagnostic vacuum guage: they are cheap and extremely handy. Only worry about a carb rebuild if you need to, after you have fixed and done all of this stuff. I doubt you'll have to get into that.

 

[kupa]

[quote author=IDave link=board=1;threadid=13952;start=msg130729#msg130729 date=1080800217]
You did the spray bit. You KNOW there is a leak at the base of the carb, or possibly the manifold in that region. You could just try torquing the nuts on the carb base and manifold studs and recheck with the carb spray. Or, you could replace the gasket(s). I would spray and watch closely to see where it is getting sucked in. You might also get a diagnostic vacuum guage: they are cheap and extremely handy. Only worry about a carb rebuild if you need to, after you have fixed and done all of this stuff. I doubt you'll have to get into that.
[/quote]

I spent some more time last night isolating the leak. It looks like it's between the intake manifold and the base of EGR inuslator plate, There's also a slight leak where the EGR pipe feeds into the insulator plate. Are the insulator plates prone to leak at that metal tube to "plastic" base fitting? The rubber EGR connector hoses could stand to be replaced.

Also, I checked vaccum at the insulator plate under the carb and got about 19 inches at idle.

Thanks for the continued input. You guys are a solid resource.

 

[IDave]

Don't know much about EGR stuff, but sounds like you have your culprit. 19 inches of mercury is a good number. Is the needle steady?

 

[kupa]

[quote author=IDave link=board=1;threadid=13952;start=msg130912#msg130912 date=1080839931]
Don't know much about EGR stuff, but sounds like you have your culprit. 19 inches of mercury is a good number. Is the needle steady?
[/quote]

Reasonably steady at 19, there's a slight stumble/surge at idle and the needle floated between 18.5 to 19.5 corresponding to the surges.

 

[IDave]

Sounds like you have some missing. I'd be looking at electrical/timing.