rockwells would be cool, then you could run some 49's. I swapped in the poly rear axles and rear discs. The shafts should be stronger to prevent the axle shaft from going on vacation, and if it does brake then the caliper should help keep it around. i think this would be the easiest way for you to dodge this weak link. but if you manage to build a eliminator kit, let us know what you find and how it goes. i see moser engineering doesnt make this for toyotas.
C-clip eliminator (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter motoman426
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- Thread starter
- #22
Well there is a couple of people in my group that is running the 49's on rockwells and they do all right but in some close spots I am actually doing as good as they are but we are getting ready to build one with narrowed up rockwells and I am going to see how it does. I do know that the 49's will break the shaft bc there is several been broken. Yeah I will prob buy the shafts for now just to get me by one more year I just wished longfield had some.
Is there such a thing as a full floater kit other than buying a used Austrailian housing?
C-clips are bad. Think about this: Australia has banned them hence why GM has moved to IRS in it's productions line-ups (thanks to Holden).
please back up your claim as to why "c-clips are bad"
Well for starters as I have stated before Australia has banned them for safety reasons. NHRA requires all vehicles running a spool or faster than 10.99 1/4 mile and aftermarket axles require proof of "axles with positive retention." Yes that's for racing, but where do you think all of the automotive technology is coming from? I also would rather be able to remove the broken shaft half and bolt my rig back up and make it home instead of sourcing a new axle on the trail. I know c-clips have been out there forever, heck my 2000 Camaro SS has a 10 bolt c-clip, but there are better options in this day and age. While most are just fine with c-clips I like the piece of mind knowing that in case i snap an axle I can still make it home by simply removing the inner half that's broken off of the hub. Just my opinion and that's all.
yes there are better options out there... but 99% of the people reading this don't need it. cruiser axles are just fine. gear it down, run heavy tires, beat the snot out of it on the trail and then I'll believe you need an upgrade. In my small block powered FJ40 I can pull the front left tire off the ground when I get on it and i have never broken a shaft. I have broken pinions and t-case's(500lbs lighter then my FJ60).
so with a pressed on shaft your saying you could drive home with a broken shaft? I do think a pressed on bearing could get you off the trail but all the way home?
what would keep the end of axle from beating the living crap out of the inside of the axle tube? would the pressed on single roller bearing support the side load?
NHRA and cruisers have what in commin?
What axle that would bolt up to a cruiser would you consider an upgrade?
so with a pressed on shaft your saying you could drive home with a broken shaft? I do think a pressed on bearing could get you off the trail but all the way home?
what would keep the end of axle from beating the living crap out of the inside of the axle tube? would the pressed on single roller bearing support the side load?
NHRA and cruisers have what in commin?
What axle that would bolt up to a cruiser would you consider an upgrade?
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
nop .. it can't .. so it's the same situation that you have with the C-Clip system ..
I agree that most people won't ever need something that strong, but like I said it's just my opinion on why c-clips are bad. Another thing is with the newer motors that people are putting in their rigs that spin in excess of 4500 RPM's to make peak torque do take a beating on a system designed to spin a lot slower.
I also apologize that I said make it home. You can limp it off the trail. I have had quite a few friends at the track limp them back to their homes after snapping an axle at the track.
I brought up the NHRA for the simple fact that almost everything we see in vehicles was developed on the track. Almost all of the technology for safety in vehicles has been developed by some form of racing.
I would prefer any full floating axle, but it is always up to the user on what they plan to do and how they plan to do it.
I also apologize that I said make it home. You can limp it off the trail. I have had quite a few friends at the track limp them back to their homes after snapping an axle at the track.
I brought up the NHRA for the simple fact that almost everything we see in vehicles was developed on the track. Almost all of the technology for safety in vehicles has been developed by some form of racing.
I would prefer any full floating axle, but it is always up to the user on what they plan to do and how they plan to do it.
- Thread starter
- #30
Well I would have prob went another way but I already had this stuff and a couple of spares laying around so when I tore the axle down the axle had exploded in the carrier and messed it up. The reason the c-clip is junk and I can personally vouch for it is when anything breaks the whole wheel and all falls out there is not really driving much of anywhere I was just lucky enough to be able to get a trailer to it and hold it in place long enough to get it on the trailer. Now granted the pressed on bearing may not make a cross country trip to get you back home but you could limp back to camp instead of having to get a trailer to the vehicle.
maybe the full float coversion would be a better substitute to the c-clip elimination.
also when you swap in poly perf rear axles, you can do the RDB's while your at it, and youve got the stock shafts for trail spares should you bust them.
IMHO i think the issue isnt the c-clip, so much as it is the axle shaft breaking at the splines. So then if you use a STOCK axle shaft, held in at the ends (c-clip eliminator), and it broke at the splines the only thing you are avoiding is having the axleshaft and tire depart, and possibly could still drive it out if it didnt make too much shrapnel in the diff.
In comparison, with a stronger shaft and RDB's i dont see how you are any worse off?
Mind you i havent wheeled mine hard enough to brake a shaft, i did however shear all the lug nuts on the back passenger side.
also when you swap in poly perf rear axles, you can do the RDB's while your at it, and youve got the stock shafts for trail spares should you bust them.
IMHO i think the issue isnt the c-clip, so much as it is the axle shaft breaking at the splines. So then if you use a STOCK axle shaft, held in at the ends (c-clip eliminator), and it broke at the splines the only thing you are avoiding is having the axleshaft and tire depart, and possibly could still drive it out if it didnt make too much shrapnel in the diff.
In comparison, with a stronger shaft and RDB's i dont see how you are any worse off?
Mind you i havent wheeled mine hard enough to brake a shaft, i did however shear all the lug nuts on the back passenger side.
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I noticed an add for Warn full float conversions for FJ40 axles in an old Toyota Trails Mag. I searched google and it looks like Warn and some other company made a full float conversion kit for FJ40's and FJ60's but no longer do. Here's one website that mentions it: Toyota 80 Series Electric Locking Differentials Retrofit for an FJ60
We were wheeling with a blazer on 10-bolt axles (c-clips) and in the worst part of the obstacle he snapped a rear shaft. He tried to back out and move forward so we could fix it but all that did was make the tire/wheel/brake/broken shaft assembly pull out of the housing. That put us in a dangerous situation because now we had to do the trail fix while he was on the obstacle. Hooked to a winch, left in gear, parking break on, we had to high-lift him to unbind the wheel so we could replace the shaft. BAD situation. If he had a full floating axle we could have at least winched him to a safe spot to do the repair. Depending on the damage you could drive home with a broken shaft on a full floater. You can't say the same for a c-clip. A worst case scenario you could pull the broken shaft and whatever shrapnel was left and still make it home to find parts later. With c-clips, no spare, no go home (without a trailer that is)!
We were wheeling with a blazer on 10-bolt axles (c-clips) and in the worst part of the obstacle he snapped a rear shaft. He tried to back out and move forward so we could fix it but all that did was make the tire/wheel/brake/broken shaft assembly pull out of the housing. That put us in a dangerous situation because now we had to do the trail fix while he was on the obstacle. Hooked to a winch, left in gear, parking break on, we had to high-lift him to unbind the wheel so we could replace the shaft. BAD situation. If he had a full floating axle we could have at least winched him to a safe spot to do the repair. Depending on the damage you could drive home with a broken shaft on a full floater. You can't say the same for a c-clip. A worst case scenario you could pull the broken shaft and whatever shrapnel was left and still make it home to find parts later. With c-clips, no spare, no go home (without a trailer that is)!
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
All off us already know the advantages of any FF axle .. but the point is which is better, SF with C-clips or not ?
Actually I saw no diference between SF axles .. c-clip or not at least without rear Disk brake conversion your tire ( entire axle asembli ) wil go out .. no matter what.
Actually I saw no diference between SF axles .. c-clip or not at least without rear Disk brake conversion your tire ( entire axle asembli ) wil go out .. no matter what.
