You need 8 washers, four on each side: six are flat and two are flanged to register into the frame mount.
The top nut comes with the new shock. The bottom bolt is reused.
Buying OEM shocks, parts list (1 Viewer)
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You need 8 washers, four on each side: six are flat and two are flanged to register into the frame mount.
The top nut comes with the new shock. The bottom bolt is reused.
By the way, the washers I'm talking about are for the rear shocks only, probably should have specified that from the beginning. I'm not sure what exactly the front needs.
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Good to know. I am looking at doing the front shocks first, then the rears. I have a 22 mm ratcheting wrench so hopefully I won't have to drill holes. Do you know if the nut is included on the front shocks? I would assume, but that usually gets me in trouble.
Almost certain the nut comes with the shock. Rubber bushings too, but never the washers (Toyota calls them "retainers").
Details & pics here: YotaMD.com - Toyota - UZJ100 Land Cruiser - Front Shocks
It is an oem shock. My new pair does not have the spacer on the top either. I wonder why it's not on the newer ones. Anyone know?
OEM shocks do not have a built-in spacer where the upper shock body meets the shaft. The metal washer rests directly against the top of the upper shock body.
OEM shocks have a ledge at the bottom of the nut threading. This is to prevent over-compression of the rubber bushings during assembly. As a result their shafts are larger.
The OEM metal washers (and bushings) have larger holes to fit over the larger shafts. Some aftermarket shocks have no ledge, thinner shafts, and smaller holes on the washers.
OEM washers are not included with new shocks, and often need to be re-purchased when going back to OEM shocks since the aftermarket washers in the mechanic’s hand won’t fit anymore. Bummer, because the OEM washers are expensive and you need 16 of them.
OEM shocks have a ledge at the bottom of the nut threading. This is to prevent over-compression of the rubber bushings during assembly. As a result their shafts are larger.
The OEM metal washers (and bushings) have larger holes to fit over the larger shafts. Some aftermarket shocks have no ledge, thinner shafts, and smaller holes on the washers.
OEM washers are not included with new shocks, and often need to be re-purchased when going back to OEM shocks since the aftermarket washers in the mechanic’s hand won’t fit anymore. Bummer, because the OEM washers are expensive and you need 16 of them.
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This helps, thanks!
Was holding the old shock and the new one like a caveman as I compared and pondered missing hardware and washers.
Was able to buy the hardware from the stealership. Even with a discount I spent $235.
Conclusion, if you remove oem shocks save the hardware, it’s worth its weight in gold apparently.
Unless there's bad rust you reuse the old. Even on an LX there's some of the old washers that can be reused. Btw, Partsouq prices are well less than half of even a discounted U.S. dealer, and might be faster too. Stock up on $5 heater Ts and alternator brushes the savings there will cover the freight.
I ended up replacing non oem shocks, unfortunately none of the hardware was workable.
My rig (1999 100 series) has approximately 15mm difference in height between the rear passenger and driver fender wells.
I measured both eibach springs with a level on a level surface with no difference found in height (prior to install). I was not totally surprised at the variance post install.
My solution will be to add a 15mm spacer on the offending lower side.
That was the bad, for the good…
I love the ride:
-new oem shocks from Toyota
-freedom off-road UCA’s
-shock extensions from David Stedman @ Japan4x4 (stedman@japan4x4.com)
-Eibach springs in the rear
-Stock T bars cranked 85%
-Front height from center cap 22-3/4” approx
-Rear height from center cap 23-1/4” low side (high side 23-3/4” approx.)
Ride is flat, predictable and oem-plush with minimal body roll.
I’m in Florida so it will be a minute before she gets any trail time.
Will try to share some thoughts down the road.
Zero regrets….
I measured both eibach springs with a level on a level surface with no difference found in height (prior to install). I was not totally surprised at the variance post install.
My solution will be to add a 15mm spacer on the offending lower side.
That was the bad, for the good…
I love the ride:
-new oem shocks from Toyota
-freedom off-road UCA’s
-shock extensions from David Stedman @ Japan4x4 (stedman@japan4x4.com)
-Eibach springs in the rear
-Stock T bars cranked 85%
-Front height from center cap 22-3/4” approx
-Rear height from center cap 23-1/4” low side (high side 23-3/4” approx.)
Ride is flat, predictable and oem-plush with minimal body roll.
I’m in Florida so it will be a minute before she gets any trail time.
Will try to share some thoughts down the road.
Zero regrets….
Did all of this hardware work? I am doing the same thing, but am getting a lot of part numbers that vary from this list when looking on dealer websites.
Yes all the parts worked well. IMHO if you can extend with shock extensions and use the oem shocks like I did, go for it. I got a decent lift with plush ride.
