Buying first FJ40... what to look for/ask
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rust, rust, rust, ha ha.
it's gonna be there, unless you got a lot of money or get real lucky.
make sure the frame isn't rusted, and typical spots are under the rear doors, at the top of the wheel wells, quarter panels, the rockers under the side doors, maybe the floorboards.
also, if you can get a later model that has a 2F and disc brakes, that's a plus.
hardtops are nice, also.
ask about any modifications done by previous owners, check/drive to make sure the transfer case is kosher, (after you drive it, talk to the guy for 5-10 minutes, then go back and look under it for any leaks), ask for receipts (those are real nice and prove work done).
i know i missed a bunch, but i've only bought one car, soo....
good luck, and hope you get one
malphrus
it's gonna be there, unless you got a lot of money or get real lucky.
make sure the frame isn't rusted, and typical spots are under the rear doors, at the top of the wheel wells, quarter panels, the rockers under the side doors, maybe the floorboards.
also, if you can get a later model that has a 2F and disc brakes, that's a plus.
hardtops are nice, also.
ask about any modifications done by previous owners, check/drive to make sure the transfer case is kosher, (after you drive it, talk to the guy for 5-10 minutes, then go back and look under it for any leaks), ask for receipts (those are real nice and prove work done).
i know i missed a bunch, but i've only bought one car, soo....
good luck, and hope you get one
malphrus
Most everything can be fixed...you just have to know what you want to spend. Sloppy steering can be fixed, might just be TRE's or those plus a sterring box...or those 2 PLUS a center arm. But I totally agree with 72, look it over at teh trouble spots then check the rest out. I bought a cruiser with little to no rust....well till I went over it with a fine toothed comb...found my fair share at the rear spring hangers. UGGGH. oh well. could be worse. Also bought it with no hard top and rear doors thinking I could just pick up a top. WRONG!! They are out there but hard to come by especially if looking locally and not wanting to deal with a basket case needing work. I would have held out for one with a hardtop knowing what I know now. Mine has a Kaline but I want a hard top...anyone wanna trade???
Just bought one and the best advice I would have is to write your questions down on a piece of paper with a box for check marks. Sounds extremely childish but quite frankly you will become like one when you get in, start the engine and start driving. You will start making excuses for this and that and lose focus on purchasing. As a matter of fact, I always recommend getting someone else who is knowledgeable about the certain vehicle to buy it for you. That way you do not become partial. Like I said, human beings loose all focus when they want something and it is placed in front of them. Hell, look at what women have done to us. No really, get the paper/check sheet and do not leave until all questions are answered. AND I would have a reserve of cash for the next year of tinkering. Not because you will want to lift it or anything like that, but they are old vehicles, Toyota or not, and they will tear up. Good luck.
The two big things I looked for was the rust on the body and Frame small enough that I could repair it? That means cutting it out and arc welding in new steele. And second, is the engine/tranny strong. You still will probably put a couple of grand into it fixing the little things that pop up at first. I had to have the front axle rebuilt because the trunion seals where leaking. You can tell if there is a large clumping of grease on the inside of your front axle. Also check to see if the oil pan/tranny and transfer case are leaking. I had to replace the oil pan seal, but that wasn't too bad.
Again, my two items where Rust and the engine. Also, look over the FAQ in the tech links section. It tells you what are diff options on each year. According to others reserach, 78 is the coveted year.
Hope that helps
Ken
Again, my two items where Rust and the engine. Also, look over the FAQ in the tech links section. It tells you what are diff options on each year. According to others reserach, 78 is the coveted year.
Hope that helps
Ken
brian
SILVER Star
this is one of those questions that depends on how deep your pockets are or, how much work you are confident and able do yourself.
what are you looking for? a stocker, some mods, hacked to the max?
few and far between the fj40's are that don't require ANY work.
start at the frame and go from there, is it solid? it's my starting point, if the heaviest metal on the truck is rusted through what else are you going to find?
suspension, stock or lifted? if lifted what kind?
rust is *normally* easy to see.
what condition is the motor in? is it a straight 6? i'd be leary of a v8 in your first cruiser.
hows it drive? hot, straight and normal, or is it all over the road?
motor ever had major work?
just a starting point.
keeping a cool head, is probably the best advice.
what are you looking for? a stocker, some mods, hacked to the max?
few and far between the fj40's are that don't require ANY work.
start at the frame and go from there, is it solid? it's my starting point, if the heaviest metal on the truck is rusted through what else are you going to find?
suspension, stock or lifted? if lifted what kind?
rust is *normally* easy to see.
what condition is the motor in? is it a straight 6? i'd be leary of a v8 in your first cruiser.
hows it drive? hot, straight and normal, or is it all over the road?
motor ever had major work?
just a starting point.
keeping a cool head, is probably the best advice.
what are your plans for it? daily driver, trail rig or ?
and are you planing/able to do you own work in it?
rust is IMOP the single biggest thing to look for......
personaly I would look for a stock rust free(or as close as you can find) 76+ fj40, this will give you a great fj40 to start with.
Watch out for previous owner modifications, like PS and a V8 conversion I have seen some VERY poorly done, nothing worse that fighting the poor mods a PO did(not to say some conversion are not VERY well done, but on the for sale market, most I have seen are not) I like the stock drivetrain, 2F, disc brakes and 4 speed.
One of the 1st things(right after, "does it have any rot") I ask is........."why are you selling it"
Before I even start one up, I spend ALOT of time just looking it over, crawl under and all around it, a flashlight is very helpfull, old fridge magnets are great to check for bondo, a screw driver is good to poke at the frame. and IMOP a digital camera is very helpfull......take LOTS of pics.
the majoritry of 40's on the market are for sale becuase the owner has decided not to throw anymore money at it......so prolly a year before he puts it up for sale he has mentaly and $$$ kinda givin up fixing stuff.........so you will have some work ahead of you. This is not always the case however............
Look at EVERY fj40 for sale near you, the more you look at the more you will learn about them, so when you find a good one you will know it.
Expect any 40 you get will need some work and money, if it needs nothing then you will pay a premium for it(in most cases)
When looking at a 40, look at the parts that have been replaced, if you see the alt or starter are OEM reman parts, or the hoses have the OEM tags on them........this is a GOOD sign, it means the owner was a smart guy and replaced parts with good stuff.......and prolly really cares for it OR he has it worked at by a good mechanic or even the dealer. Both my 82 fj40;s were bought from the original owners, both bone stock, both had any part that was replaced with OEM parts and IMOP this shows that they were loved by the owners so other things(that you can't see) were prolly done right. Heck one of the 82's had a Toyota battery in it.............so you know it was takin to the dealer for even the most minor of problems. I won't say stuff like this is a guarantee............but in general its a VERY good sign.
Oh.......I would prolly never buy a 40 from a kid(16-20) just remember what you were like as a kid and what you did to your cars
John H
[quote author=cessna link=board=1;threadid=13363;start=msg123618#msg123618 date=1079664946]
I have been looking for an fj40 for several years now. What do you guys recommend I look for (warning signs) specifically for FJ40s? What to ask? I have questions that I ask, but advice would be helpful.
Thanks
Cessna
[/quote]
and are you planing/able to do you own work in it?
rust is IMOP the single biggest thing to look for......
personaly I would look for a stock rust free(or as close as you can find) 76+ fj40, this will give you a great fj40 to start with.
Watch out for previous owner modifications, like PS and a V8 conversion I have seen some VERY poorly done, nothing worse that fighting the poor mods a PO did(not to say some conversion are not VERY well done, but on the for sale market, most I have seen are not) I like the stock drivetrain, 2F, disc brakes and 4 speed.
One of the 1st things(right after, "does it have any rot") I ask is........."why are you selling it"
Before I even start one up, I spend ALOT of time just looking it over, crawl under and all around it, a flashlight is very helpfull, old fridge magnets are great to check for bondo, a screw driver is good to poke at the frame. and IMOP a digital camera is very helpfull......take LOTS of pics.
the majoritry of 40's on the market are for sale becuase the owner has decided not to throw anymore money at it......so prolly a year before he puts it up for sale he has mentaly and $$$ kinda givin up fixing stuff.........so you will have some work ahead of you. This is not always the case however............
Look at EVERY fj40 for sale near you, the more you look at the more you will learn about them, so when you find a good one you will know it.
Expect any 40 you get will need some work and money, if it needs nothing then you will pay a premium for it(in most cases)
When looking at a 40, look at the parts that have been replaced, if you see the alt or starter are OEM reman parts, or the hoses have the OEM tags on them........this is a GOOD sign, it means the owner was a smart guy and replaced parts with good stuff.......and prolly really cares for it OR he has it worked at by a good mechanic or even the dealer. Both my 82 fj40;s were bought from the original owners, both bone stock, both had any part that was replaced with OEM parts and IMOP this shows that they were loved by the owners so other things(that you can't see) were prolly done right. Heck one of the 82's had a Toyota battery in it.............so you know it was takin to the dealer for even the most minor of problems. I won't say stuff like this is a guarantee............but in general its a VERY good sign.
Oh.......I would prolly never buy a 40 from a kid(16-20) just remember what you were like as a kid and what you did to your cars
John H
[quote author=cessna link=board=1;threadid=13363;start=msg123618#msg123618 date=1079664946]
I have been looking for an fj40 for several years now. What do you guys recommend I look for (warning signs) specifically for FJ40s? What to ask? I have questions that I ask, but advice would be helpful.
Thanks
Cessna
[/quote]
I bought my first 40 about a year and a half ago, and I wish I knew then what I know now. If you are planning a restoration, or even a modified rig, I would suggest starting with one that is pretty much stock.. I have been fighing previous owner mods for my entire restoration. I bought mine after it had been sitting n someones garage untouched for 15 years, I thought this was a good thing, but every single seal in the damn truck needed to be replaced. Also avoid carb mods and emissions equiptment removal in the 40's. Everyone has a different way of getting rid of the smog equipment, and if your in an area where you have to deal with the smog Nazis you could be in trouble. I also recommend getting a 77-78, they still had 4.11s and the addition of the rear pop-outs in the hardtop panels were sweet. They also were some of the firsts with the rear tube-style Tire carrier that works much better than the earlier flat panel rattlers. Try to find a lower mileage engine as well.. I find that Landcruisers are indestructable and can run forever with the worst problems that would normally kill other cars.. my engine sounded great and ran strong when I first got it running. When I tore it down for the rebuild, I was amazed at how far out of spec rod bearings and mains were for the way it was running.. Its a challenge to fing a good used one that hasnt been abused, that what they were designed for! Good luck.
Mike
Mike
TJDIV
UP of MI.
I'd ask somebody for a gun.
I agree with Offcamber on the smog stuff. If you are in CA, it can become a nightmare. Don't buy it until: 1. The seller has the smog test performed and passed and 2. you do a good visual and make sure everything is there. I was assured by my PO that all the smog was OK, then I bought it & tried to get it smogged and found I had the wrong manifolds, no EGR cooler, and no EGR plumbing. I got it passed finally, but it was a major headache.
If you aren't a major gearhead (like most of the guys on this forum), $100 spent at a reputable mechanic for a once over (compression checks, inspection on a lift, etc.) might save you $$.
Rocky
Good Luck
If you aren't a major gearhead (like most of the guys on this forum), $100 spent at a reputable mechanic for a once over (compression checks, inspection on a lift, etc.) might save you $$.
Rocky
Good Luck
wow, yeah, i totally forgot about the mechanic thing.
that is a big one, esp. if you're unsure abt anything.
one of my buds at school loved my cruiser so much that he decided to buy one over the summer and looked all around and constantly called me askin abt different stuff. he finally found one near him and went and looked at it. he said everything looked ok and i told him stuff to check (pretty much the same as everyone has listed) and i told him to take it to a mechanic to get him to give it a once over.
he said he would, but never did and bought the cruiser for too much (i think) and it ran like crap once it got to 45 mph. he's spent a lot more money since then diagnosing the problem and now he thinks he may have finally gotten it pinned down, but still not sure.
just a bit of a warnin on that end,
malphrus
that is a big one, esp. if you're unsure abt anything.
one of my buds at school loved my cruiser so much that he decided to buy one over the summer and looked all around and constantly called me askin abt different stuff. he finally found one near him and went and looked at it. he said everything looked ok and i told him stuff to check (pretty much the same as everyone has listed) and i told him to take it to a mechanic to get him to give it a once over.
he said he would, but never did and bought the cruiser for too much (i think) and it ran like crap once it got to 45 mph. he's spent a lot more money since then diagnosing the problem and now he thinks he may have finally gotten it pinned down, but still not sure.
just a bit of a warnin on that end,
malphrus
