Buying a 460 - Need some help with assumptions (1 Viewer)

[klimraamkosie]

I'm looking at an early 460 as a "second" car. I need help in adjusting my assumptions.

Second car:

• Wife will take main car for commuting.
• I work from home.
• 3 smalls kids + dog.

Looking for:

• 2010-2015 with low miles (sub 140k).

Used for:

• Light offroad, think big bend but not black gap.
• Hike/bike with kids.
• Likely pulling a small camping trailer with fridge/extra battery system.

I'll be using this car with kids (biking/hiking/commuting to whatever) in the afternoons (after 3), I work from home and finish work around 2:30p. I also will be doing regular trips off road, but I'm never going to crawl or need serious changes to the car. Rack, wheels and tires, maybe 2nd battery/lights (or whatever y'all convince me needs changing). I'll likely also pull a small trailer for camping that can handle offroad.

Questions:

• Should I pay extra for a 2014-2015? Or is it pure facelift.
• What options should I avoid or not pay for or are not worth paying for?
• How about a non-nav version? I don't care about the nav so is this a good place to negotiate?

I'd like a low miles (less the 130k) version, but I really don't know if that's "low" for a 460. Is 160 also considered low? I know that's low for an 100 series LX. So not sure if 130k or less is a good place to look.

Budget is low 20s. But I'm fine buying a low mileage 2010 for cheaper vs. a low mileage 2013. Also fine buying a 2014 if worth it.

Aside, would TCO for a 2002LX be worse or better? I'm leaning 80% towards a GX.

 

[Seanzky]

If you don't want to make huge changes, you should definitely consider the pre-facelift 2010-2013 as the approach angle can be of huge benefit. That way, you'll be off to a head start, needing only a lift and 32-33s. I would start by looking for the lowest mileage of those model years for the allotted budget and obviously with a hitch receiver.

You can do this just to get an idea:
Go to truecar.com
Look for 2010-2013
0-100,000 miles
0-25,000 $
Nationwide (or if you wish to narrow down your search)
No accidents
Clean title
One owner
Non-fleet, non-rental, etc.

 

[Bang Bang]

I'm looking at an early 460 as a "second" car. I need help in adjusting my assumptions.

Second car:

• Wife will take main car for commuting.
• I work from home.
• 3 smalls kids + dog.

Looking for:

• 2010-2015 with low miles (sub 140k).

Used for:

• Light offroad, think big bend but not black gap.
• Hike/bike with kids.
• Likely pulling a small camping trailer with fridge/extra battery system.

I'll be using this car with kids (biking/hiking/commuting to whatever) in the afternoons (after 3), I work from home and finish work around 2:30p. I also will be doing regular trips off road, but I'm never going to crawl or need serious changes to the car. Rack, wheels and tires, maybe 2nd battery/lights (or whatever y'all convince me needs changing). I'll likely also pull a small trailer for camping that can handle offroad.

Questions:

• Should I pay extra for a 2014-2015? Or is it pure facelift.
• What options should I avoid or not pay for or are not worth paying for?
• How about a non-nav version? I don't care about the nav so is this a good place to negotiate?

I'd like a low miles (less the 130k) version, but I really don't know if that's "low" for a 460. Is 160 also considered low? I know that's low for an 100 series LX. So not sure if 130k or less is a good place to look.

Budget is low 20s. But I'm fine buying a low mileage 2010 for cheaper vs. a low mileage 2013. Also fine buying a 2014 if worth it.

Aside, would TCO for a 2002LX be worse or better? I'm leaning 80% towards a GX.

My 2013 is a weekend warrior for me. The intended use is for offroad trips out west so that we can get there in comfort. For your intended uses you will be fine. I bought an Intech Flyer Chase trailer not long after getting the GX and pulled it from NOLA to Gilmer, Tx (about 6.5 hours) for the Lonestar Toyota Jamboree. It did fine as I expected.

To answer your specific questions:

• There may be a few other slight differences but it's mostly the facelift.
• Don't know if options (Luxury vs Premium vs Base) should really be the swaying factor. As an example, If it doesn't have electric 3rd row seats, will that stop you from buying?
• In this market, I don't know how you would negotiate the nav piece of it. The only way to get a non-nav is if you get a base model (I think) and there don't seem to be many of those around.

I bought my 13 with 132k miles and I certainly don't consider that high mileage but I did get it from a friend who bought it as a lease turn in a few years ago. At least I have a little bit of background on it and some maintenance records. That's the key, understanding it's maintenance history. The only other things I would want to check are has the valley plate leak been addressed (if it's an issue). Easiest way to see if it is an issue is to look uner the rig to the rear of the bellhousing to see if there is any pick fluid / residue. Or is the water pump is leaking. If either are leaking then you have some room to negotiate but you are looking at about $1500 for the valley plate fix. I don't remember on the wp but I want to say $750-$1000. Of course it will be a hell of lot cheaper if you do the fix yourself.

 

[klimraamkosie]

If you don't want to make huge changes, you should definitely consider the pre-facelift 2010-2013 as the approach angle can be of huge benefit. That way, you'll be off to a head start, needing only a lift and 32-33s. I would start by looking for the lowest mileage of those model years for the allotted budget and obviously with a hitch receiver.

You can do this just to get an idea:
Go to truecar.com
Look for 2010-2013
0-100,000 miles
0-25,000 $
Nationwide (or if you wish to narrow down your search)
No accidents
Clean title
One owner
Non-fleet, non-rental, etc.

That really helps re: approach. I like the low profile front protection of the 2014+ a lot more (with winch) but I doubt I'll go that way. And I'm happy with 10-13.

All years 10-13 fine? Or some to avoid.

For instance, one of the options I have close by is a 2010 with 116k.

 

[klimraamkosie]

My 2013 is a weekend warrior for me. The intended use is for offroad trips out west so that we can get there in comfort. For your intended uses you will be fine. I bought an Intech Flyer Chase trailer not long after getting the GX and pulled it from NOLA to Gilmer, Tx (about 6.5 hours) for the Lonestar Toyota Jamboree. It did fine as I expected.

To answer your specific questions:

• There may be a few other slight differences but it's mostly the facelift.
• Don't know if options (Luxury vs Premium vs Base) should really be the swaying factor. As an example, If it doesn't have electric 3rd row seats, will that stop you from buying?
• In this market, I don't know how you would negotiate the nav piece of it. The only way to get a non-nav is if you get a base model (I think) and there don't seem to be many of those around.

I bought my 13 with 132k miles and I certainly don't consider that high mileage but I did get it from a friend who bought it as a lease turn in a few years ago. At least I have a little bit of background on it and some maintenance records. That's the key, understanding it's maintenance history. The only other things I would want to check are has the valley plate leak been addressed (if it's an issue). Easiest way to see if it is an issue is to look uner the rig to the rear of the bellhousing to see if there is any pick fluid / residue. Or is the water pump is leaking. If either are leaking then you have some room to negotiate but you are looking at about $1500 for the valley plate fix. I don't remember on the wp but I want to say $750-$1000. Of course it will be a hell of lot cheaper if you do the fix yourself.

I have two non-nav units close by for sale with miles I'm okay with, that's really why I'm asking.

As far as powered 3rd row. I've never used the non-powered 3rd row so now idea if it's a big hassle. I guess if I test drive a GX without it I'll just have to try to see if it's a deal breaker.

Maintenance history: Best way to get as much history as possible? I've seen that you can do it to a degree on the Lexus website?

Thanks for the info, I'll add some of that to my notes for the search.

 

[Bang Bang]

I have two non-nav units close by for sale with miles I'm okay with, that's really why I'm asking.

As far as powered 3rd row. I've never used the non-powered 3rd row so now idea if it's a big hassle. I guess if I test drive a GX without it I'll just have to try to see if it's a deal breaker.

Maintenance history: Best way to get as much history as possible? I've seen that you can do it to a degree on the Lexus website?

Thanks for the info, I'll add some of that to my notes for the search.

Wow. I have never seen a non-nav 460. Are they both base models? And I was just using the 3rd row thing as an example. I don't know what all you get with a Luxury vs Premium vs Base models because the options just weren't a purchase consideration for me. Maybe someone else can chime in on the differences. Hell, I don't even know which one I have and I have tried to find out on the Lexus owners site. As for maintenance history, the Lexus website is the only way I know other than CarFax and asking the current owner if they have any records.

 

[klimraamkosie]

Wow. I have never seen a non-nav 460. Are they both base models? And I was just using the 3rd row thing as an example. I don't know what all you get with a Luxury vs Premium vs Base models because the options just weren't a purchase consideration for me. Maybe someone else can chime in on the differences. Hell, I don't even know which one I have and I have tried to find out on the Lexus owners site. As for maintenance history, the Lexus website is the only way I know other than CarFax and asking the current owner if they have any records.

Here's an example: Used 2011 Lexus GX 460 Sport Utility for Sale in Calera AL 35040 Calera Auto Sales - https://caleraautosales.com/vdp/18380616/Used-2011-Lexus-GX-460-Sport-Utility-for-sale-in-Calera-AL-35040

And no, they don't have to be base models.

 

[Seanzky]

Look for the usual signs... rust/corrosions, CV axle boots, coolant valley leaks (or other leaks), VINs matching, glass all original all around, brakes, KDSS (any leaning?), engine bay (visual anomalies, sound, etc.), transmission/shifting, overall exterior and interior condition, etc. If all of the normal wear and tear matches the mileage, then the chances of any surprises decreases.

There are a lot more to check for, of course. One thing you can do is if you browse through the topics/posts on here or on Club Lexus, you'll see the things other owners discuss. Make a list of those and turn it into a checklist. You can use that checklist to filter and narrow down your GX candidates. Then you can take it to a Toyota/Lexus specialist mechanic once you're confident you've found a good copy.

 

[GrizzlyClint]

That really helps re: approach. I like the low profile front protection of the 2014+ a lot more (with winch) but I doubt I'll go that way. And I'm happy with 10-13.

All years 10-13 fine? Or some to avoid.

For instance, one of the options I have close by is a 2010 with 116k.

A 2010 is going to have more standard features like a powered 3rd row standard. Even if you don’t need the 3rd row that power source can be tapped into for some considerable power. My 2010 base is pretty kittted out with 3 zone climate and factory tow pkg.

 

[klimraamkosie]

A 2010 is going to have more standard features like a powered 3rd row standard. Even if you don’t need the 3rd row that power source can be tapped into for some considerable power. My 2010 base is pretty kittted out with 3 zone climate and factory tow pkg.

Great idea, I'd like some power in the back for a fridge when 3rd row isn't being used as well as charging jackery.

How do I know if the towing receiver is factory?

 

[Jacket]

The Base package is coil springs in the rear. I believe that the premium an luxury have the adjustable air suspension (not sure if its 100%). For everything but towing I'd prefer the base/coils to keep it simple, especially if you plan to lift it. But if you are towing anything above 1500# you are likely to see some sag in the rear. So I added inner-spring air bags in the rear that I pump up when I'm towing.

Like was said previously, I'd focus as much on maintenance history as overall mileage. Lots of things to do around 100k - 120k, and so I'd want to know someone took care of it.

 

[GrizzlyClint]

The Base package is coil springs in the rear. I believe that the premium an luxury have the adjustable air suspension (not sure if its 100%).

You are correct. Base trim does not have air bags. And I’m glad. LOL

 

[suitcase]

Great idea, I'd like some power in the back for a fridge when 3rd row isn't being used as well as charging jackery.

How do I know if the towing receiver is factory?

I have a '17 Premium w/o the power 3rd row. There's an outlet in the cargo area that I use to charge a Goal Zero battery which then powers the fridge. The outlet frequently cuts out in hot summer months with the AC running and whatever else is pulling electrical. It's left me arriving at camp with a depleted battery. That outlet is my one major complaint. From what I understand though the harness to that power 3rd row can handle a lot more draw.

 

[GrizzlyClint]

I have a '17 Premium w/o the power 3rd row. There's an outlet in the cargo area that I use to charge a Goal Zero battery which then powers the fridge. The outlet frequently cuts out in hot summer months with the AC running and whatever else is pulling electrical. It's left me arriving at camp with a depleted battery. That outlet is my one major complaint. From what I understand though the harness to that power 3rd row can handle a lot more draw.

Indeed it can and if you tie in both sides it is a very healthy amount of stabile power. @THEOZMAN is the dude to reach out to! I highly recommend his harnesses if he still makes them.

 

[Bang Bang]

Indeed it can and if you tie in both sides it is a very healthy amount of stabile power. @THEOZMAN is the dude to reach out to! I highly recommend his harnesses if he still makes them.

He does. I just got 2 of them from him for this. Ordered on Thur, shipped on Fri, delivered on Monday.

 

[r2m]

If you look here > GX 460 Manuals
There will be sales brochures and owner's manuals starting at Post #14. All the years of brochures are posted there. That should give you an idea of what was available on which year.
It'll give you color and trim options available during each year.
The big change was with 2014 and newer. They went to three trim levels. Pre-2014 only had two trim levels. You should be able to see them all there.
Enjoy!

 

[Bang Bang]

If you look here > GX 460 Manuals

Thanks for that. I think I've figured out I have the Standard (or base) model with the optional Comfort Plus Package and the Nav System. In 13 it looks like only the standard and Premium were offered.

 

[klimraamkosie]

A 2010 is going to have more standard features like a powered 3rd row standard. Even if you don’t need the 3rd row that power source can be tapped into for some considerable power. My 2010 base is pretty kittted out with 3 zone climate and factory tow pkg.

If it doesn't have a receiver, can I just add one like this? Everything else there correct?

Amazon product ASIN B003ZS32CW

 

[GrizzlyClint]

If it doesn't have a receiver, can I just add one like this? Everything else there correct?

Amazon product ASIN B003ZS32CW

I’m not going to be an expert here on towing equipment. I’ll defer to another member who can answer those questions. I have zero experience with towing or it’s equipment sadly.

 

[Acrad]

I put together a model year thread here with other relevant info

follow thread completely through for info

In US market only two trims for 10-13 (Base & Premium) but there are few option packages too.

Non-nav are quite rare... a 10-13 premium non-nav even rarer.

A 10-13 base with Comfort Plus package and Convenience Package is essentially a '14+ equivalent Premium trim

What to look for if buying a used GX 460​