Buy this early model J100? [update: bought it]

[Super77]

I’ll start by saying I’m a 100-series noob but spent a lot of time here when I had my 62, and I owned a 40 before that, so not new to Land Cruisers or all of you fellow addicts

Neighbor is selling his 99. Gunmetal, 141k miles, second owner, fully original, dealer serviced and suburban driven, local (WA) truck with no rust that I can see. Years of service records, supposedly (haven’t seen yet). Says it got rear-end tapped once, I see no immediate concern.

He’s letting me hang on to it for the weekend so I’ve got a good slow inspection to look forward to. It’s mine to lose, but he wants $16k unless I convince him otherwise. It’s in decent but not show-ready condition. Straight body, good gaps, worn leather. Handful of minor dents and scratches, nothing worth fixing at this point.

I’ve been over the FAQ and I know how to inspect cars in general, but anything SPECIFICALLY on the early J100’s that I should look for in my driveway? Known vulnerabilities? And how do we feel about the early -100s? Sometimes, vehicles get better as a model progresses, sometimes the simpler earlier ones are easier to deal with. For example, my GX-owning overlanding buddy suggests avoiding the integrated HVAC/nav and air suspension in the later GX’s, when I was considering one.

I loved the simplicity and reliability of my 40 and 62, but hated that they rode like a stagecoach. Looking for that sweet spot in the middle of modern feeling and easy to wrench on, and fun to trail.

Much obliged.

 

[Kabanstva]

Biggest difference will be 98-02 had a 4spd trans. And a 99 is open diffs, no ATRAC.

For $16k and prior collision damage I think that’s way too high. Post pics if possible but initial thought is its priced too high.

Isn’t your buddy neighbor supposed to hook you up with a good deal? Doesn’t sound like he’s doing that.

And your friends are incorrect. These never had air suspension.

 

[Bisho]

The 98-99 is the least capable offroad, lacking ATRAC, but you can add lockers if it doesn’t have one (optional on 98-99). The 5 speed came in 2003, but there’s nothing wrong with the 4 speed.

It’s priced at the top of the market for a 99, for sure.

 

[Coin]

Might be worth a bit more since it’s local, rust free, and you can take your time doing a thorough inspection.

 

[excessive]

the price seems a bit high , but then again 141 k miles is extremely low. Most of the early 100's i see have 300+k miles on them

 

[FxFormat]

16K for a 99 is crazy, do yourself a favor and drive an 06-07 first then go back to that 99 and see if you still want to pay that price for it. Because you can get an 06-07 with around 200K miles for that price.

 

[Super77]

This is why I love this forum. Been gone a while and I miss it .

Heard, on all points above. And I agree $16k is high. I was thinking more in the $9-12K range for this MY. That is consistent with KBB and Edmunds. The rust-free and reliable ownership history might be worth a little bump.

I think the owner looked at a couple of outlier BaT auctions and figured he had a classic. Not sure the 100s are quite there yet, but there’s probably a handful of buyers who can be convinced so.

I’ll update with pics if the inspection maintains my interest.

 

[Exiled]

I happen to be a fan of the earlier 100s, and that's a low-mileage truck. If it's really well maintained and no rust, it's a good buy, but not at $16K. The market for 100s is pretty soft right now, has been for a couple of years (after descending from peak pandemic madness). I'd say that's a good buy at $11-12K but I'd still be in the game at $13K depending on the overall condition.

 

[dbfw]

Fellow Western Washington resident with a 99 LX here. Mine has been great, a few things that are actually plusses for the early trucks:

- Double DIN stereo with separate HVAC controls make upgrading to modern Apple Car play, etc. much easier than the later integrated units
- Glass headlights don't get cloudy or foggy
- While you might occasionally wish for one more gear on the freeway, the 4 speed trans is absolutely bulletproof and shifts silky smooth

Major repairs I've had to do on my 99 LX (now at 245k miles) that you might want to take a close look at:

- Replaced brake master cylinder assembly due to worn seals allowing internal fluid bypass (dying seagull sound)
- Left rear axle seal leak. Did axle seal and bearings, requires lots of press work so had a shop tackle this one. Make sure breather is clear to help prevent this
- Replaced sunroof drive cables, old ones were seized up - a common problem. Make sure the sunroof works and if it doesn't, discount accordingly

Good things to check on any 100 series:

- Assume original windshield has been replaced? Maybe not with the low miles, but if so, check the installation of the glass side trim to make sure correct rivets were used instead of big self tapping screws

- Plan to replace heater T's as your first maintenance item if you buy the truck. Not particularly difficult or expensive

 

[Kabanstva]

test drive an 80 series too and see how you like it for comparison. If you like the more old school stuff that might be the ticket

 

[Super77]

test drive an 80 series too and see how you like it for comparison. If you like the more old school stuff that might be the ticket

I’ve driven a few 80s, love the look but felt very close to my 62. I’m looking for an upgrade from the 3FE, better seats, better highway behavior, a few modern conveniences. Plus, with 80s now firmly in the “classic” category, finding a good one for less than this will be challenging.

 

[Super77]

This was my previous rig btw. Got it looking like that 90% in my garage over 10 years, in addition to wheeling it in some of the most beautiful parts of the PNW.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

I’ve driven a few 80s, love the look but felt very close to my 62. I’m looking for an upgrade from the 3FE, better seats, better highway behavior, a few modern conveniences. Plus, with 80s now firmly in the “classic” category, finding a good one for less than this will be challenging.

100 series is usually a better value than an 80 as a used Land Cruiser, for sure. However, I agree with others that $16K sounds too high. A '99 might not be considered the best year but could certainly go anywhere your old 62 did. Have you driven it yet?

Back when I still had my 62, I drove a co worker's 100 with 260K miles and was impressed with the performance and comfort. One negative was that it seemed less spacious with the leg and head room. But then, I had seat extensions on my 62. Pretty much all Cruisers are deficient with legroom for taller people.

 

[Super77]

100 series is usually a better value than an 80 as a used Land Cruiser, for sure. However, I agree with others that $16K sounds too high. A '99 might not be considered the best year but could certainly go anywhere your old 62 did. Have you driven it yet?

Back when I still had my 62, I drove a co worker's 100 with 260K miles and was impressed with the performance and comfort. One negative was that it seemed less spacious with the leg and head room. But then, I had seat extensions on my 62. Pretty much all Cruisers are deficient with legroom for taller people.

I’ve yet to own a vehicle with a better greenhouse than my 62 had. Those thin pillars, low belt line - it was actually easier to maneuver in downtown Seattle traffic than my brand new Outback, which I can’t back up without using the camera.

You’re right that if I was happy with my 62’s off-road performance, an early 99 won’t be a downgrade. The 62 was a reliable, no-drama performer on rutted forest service roads, all day long. I’m not wheeling in Moab.

I’ll have this prospective rig to drive and inspect all this weekend. I’m 50/50 on it. I’ve known these neighbors for a while, they’re good people so I doubt there’s anything seriously wrong with the rig, but I’ll need to reset their expectations if I end up wanting to buy it.

 

[97 AZ LC]

sometimes the simpler earlier ones are easier to deal with.

This. 1999 is the last year of the 100 series that I will consider. But it's a bit overpriced, especially with the accident history.

 

[DFXR]

I’ve yet to own a vehicle with a better greenhouse than my 62 had. Those thin pillars, low belt line - it was actually easier to maneuver in downtown Seattle traffic than my brand new Outback, which I can’t back up without using the camera.

You’re right that if I was happy with my 62’s off-road performance, an early 99 won’t be a downgrade. The 62 was a reliable, no-drama performer on rutted forest service roads, all day long. I’m not wheeling in Moab.

I’ll have this prospective rig to drive and inspect all this weekend. I’m 50/50 on it. I’ve known these neighbors for a while, they’re good people so

I have an ‘85 60 and a 2000 100 series.

The early 100s are huge upgrades in comfort and performance… relative to a 60 series. That’s a pretty low bar. And “performance” is of course a weird term for any LC.

That being said, I love my 100 as much now as I did 13 years ago. It’s not too difficult to maintain and I appreciate the simple non-nav throwback dash. I don’t really need to be any more comfortable than this. For mild wheeling it does great.

The mpg’s still suck, though. But you know that.

If you can get your neighbor to come down a little without conflict (because good neighbors are priceless), I’d go for it.

 

[Kabanstva]

I’ve yet to own a vehicle with a better greenhouse than my 62 had. Those thin pillars, low belt line - it was actually easier to maneuver in downtown Seattle traffic than my brand new Outback, which I can’t back up without using the camera.

You’re right that if I was happy with my 62’s off-road performance, an early 99 won’t be a downgrade. The 62 was a reliable, no-drama performer on rutted forest service roads, all day long. I’m not wheeling in Moab.

I’ll have this prospective rig to drive and inspect all this weekend. I’m 50/50 on it. I’ve known these neighbors for a while, they’re good people so I doubt there’s anything seriously wrong with the rig, but I’ll need to reset their expectations if I end up wanting to buy it.

Offer him between $8k-10k depending on how clean it is once you see it in person.

 

[Super77]

So… lotsa pics for the ‘Mud hive mind to feast upon. I’ve only had a half hour with it but here are first impressions:

Body looks straight, there are a handful of bruises and scrapes.

On both sides, the sheet metal between the door and front wheel well looks dented, or is that just a really convoluted stamping?

 

[Super77]

Engine bay does not appear to be a horror show. Gotta get under of course, plus determine if there have been critters nesting in all those pine needles.

TB and WP were done 15 years / 50k miles ago at the local Toyota dealership, it comes with the accompanying invoices for that and much more. 80-90% of the care was at the dealership since the current owner bought it there in 2003.

 

[Super77]

Interior has the expected wear areas, I’m showing the worst of it. The rear is much more lightly worn. It was primarily used as an adult driven, single driver vehicle. No evidence of kid or cargo hauling.