Buy this early model J100? [update: bought it]

[Super77]

The “rear end tap” that the owner mentioned turned out to be a more serious story: he was rear ended hard enough to push him into the car in front, both ends of this rig needed body work. I’m waiting for him to find that paperwork, and I’ll crawl under to look for damage. The hit shows up on CarFax.

Couple of quick observations:
- power antenna motor activates with the radio, but gets stuck 3” up.
- rear windows are super sluggish, one won’t close at all without hand assist
- ABS idiot light comes on in 4lo with rear locker engaged. Not in 4hi, though. No other warning lights present. I’ll check for stored codes.
- Turning a tight circle on wet pavement in 4WD WITHOUT the rear locker produces a popping noise. Is this an automatic center locker? Sorry, my reference is my 62 with an open diff and no lockers. I know you’re not supposed to do this on pavement but I just wanted to quickly test the 4WD function on the street.

I’m gonna prepare a checklist off that awesome video that @Coin posted up the thread. I still don’t think it’s a $16k rig, but I think I have a fair shot if this looks like a keeper and a good platform for a reliable light overlanding truck.

 

[kbfj621989]

When the radiator starts to turn brown, it needs to be replaced. Budget for that.

 

[Super77]

When the radiator starts to turn brown, it needs to be replaced. Budget for that.

How much DIY work beside just the cost of the rad itself?

 

[kbfj621989]

How much DIY work beside just the cost of the rad itself?

It not too difficult but as with any project, you will probably end up doing other preventative things ‘while you’re in there’ with the coolant out (heater t’s).

Looks like my river rock green mica paint code.

 

[nissanh]

Just from the condition of the seats.. it is not 142k miles. Mine was 100% in west texas and even at 250K miles, the seats are far superior from what you have there. Either they swapped seats to another or something.

If you find any cracks on the fan blade, replace it with AISIN (rockauto). to baseline a landcruiser you are look at top $. I did mine and is happy that I got a reliable LC but it is expensive...

 

[Super77]

Look like my river rock green mica paint code.

Yeah, I’d call it “gray.”

Re the collision damage: the only evidence I see is this

That’s the rear-most ladder frame cross-bracing that runs between the spare the bumper.

These don’t look like Toyota quality welds. My guess is that the hit was hard enough to bend the crossbeam and it had to be cut out and welded back in. My naked eye can see any frame damage, and I’d have to drop the hitch receiver and spare to assess the sheet metal, but I have no reason to believe it was not repaired as well as it could have been.

The bar code on the bumper cover has a 2004 mfg date, so that may put the collision early in the rig’s timeline. Carfax will confirm. If so, it’s been on the road like this for 20+ years. No visible damage at the front. I assume the front bumper cover and crossbeam were replaced there too, but those are all bolt on parts.

 

[Super77]

Underside looks pretty clean. There are a few greasy areas, I haven’t pulled the engine tray and skid plates yet. CV boots are whole but seeping a little through the narrow ends. The muffler looks the rattiest of all. No loose bits but lots of rust scaling. That’s the worst I can see underneath in a 15 minute peek.

PNW cars tend to look like this. I know all you from the Midwest and east coast dream about it, but here we are lucky to find these all day long. It’s like California but less bureaucracy, more moss, and the same amount of weed

 

[Bisho]

I agree, it looks like the lower front fenders are out of whack, but it could be reflections throwing off the pictures. The interior has more wear than I’d expect. Maybe it’s been parked out in the sun? If so, the clearcoat may not be far from failing, so beware. In my mind the only thing that could have made this a $16k truck was the condition of the interior and paint/body, and it falls short. I’d say $12k tops.

The 98-99 did have auto locking center diff in low. There is a depin mod to disable that. I can’t speak to the ABS, but it’s probably normal if it happens coincident with the rear locker.

 

[nissanh]

Did the PO disclose of the accident? If it happened during his ownership and didn't disclose, then don't believe what he says.. do your 100% inspection. I went to buy a brand new Armada 2024 2 weeks ago. Didn't pay a cent until I inspect though it is brand new. To my surprise, I found a hole they drilled in the back behind the rear hatch quarter panel possibly to fix hail damage. I noted corrosion like color and started inspecting. They were shocked on my degree of inspection. Ended up acquiring another armada in their lot for the same price.. it was in excellent shape after my 2 hour inspection! Do your own inspection. It is well worth it.

 

[Super77]

Did the PO disclose of the accident? If it happened during his ownership and didn't disclose, then don't believe what he says.. do your 100% inspection. I went to buy a brand new Armada 2024 2 weeks ago. Didn't pay a cent until I inspect though it is brand new. To my surprise, I found a hole they drilled in the back behind the rear hatch quarter panel possibly to fix hail damage. I noted corrosion like color and started inspecting. They were shocked on my degree of inspection. Ended up acquiring another armada in their lot for the same price.. it was in excellent shape after my 2 hour inspection! Do your own inspection. It is well worth it.

As I said, the owner is a neighbor who disclosed the collision to me first thing. I’m not worried about getting ripped off here, it’s more that he drives the truck so little that he can’t recall details, so I’m doing my own inspection to fill in the gaps.

 

[Super77]

Windshield has been replaced with non OE glass, I believe. There are ripples in the A-pillar gaskets and either the VIN plate is missing or the viewing window in the glass frit does not align with it. I don’t see evidence of leaks as a result, but I’m not sure where to look for them.

 

[rbrave]

I was going to say I’d offer $12k, until the glass photos. That looks suspect and I would need to dig in pretty significantly to make sure there isn’t something bad underneath.

I bought my ‘98 two years ago, just as the market was cooling down. $16k, 178k miles. Could have gone on bring a trailer, only reason it didn’t was because the seller didn’t want to pay the fees. Interior is still in better shape than this one as I hit 200k.

I have put almost $6k into mine in that period. Not because of lack of maintenance, just because things get old. Ball joints, timing belt, CV boots, tires, etc. A new radiator (and misc other things “while I was in there”) was my most recent $700+ DIY.

Also, that brake booster looks either really well maintained or replaced.

 

[nissanh]

That's a made in the USA glass! I would not worry about it. The VIN is visible!
The ripples are possibly due to debris going between the glass and the rubber trim. I think that is not the OEM trim. The trim looks nice but it traps moisture and potentially leads to corrosion especially with soaked dead organic matter. Mine came without and I am happy that I do not have that trim.. It is purely cosmetics.

 

[Super77]

That's a made in the USA glass! I would not worry about it. The VIN is visible!

Well, it is marked made in USA. And the VIN is not visible.

 

[dbfw]

Brown radiator was already mentioned, I’d do that sooner than later and heater Ts at the same time.

100s are full time 4WD, the chirping may be because you had the center diff lock engaged?

On the antenna, try the dash switch to raise and lower, you can set the height and if it’s set to lowest it does just stop at about 3” up.

Have you tried the sunroof yet?

You can peel back that wavy glass trim, its just cosmetic and you can see if there are rivets or screws behind it.

I see some moisture on the steering rack boot, so might be worth checking the fluid level and make sure it isn’t leaking bad. Mine was seeping when I got the truck 5 years ago, I flushed it a bunch and it stopped so I guess I got lucky.

Have fun!

 

[Super77]

Brown radiator was already mentioned, I’d do that sooner than later and heater Ts at the same time.

100s are full time 4WD, the chirping may be because you had the center diff lock engaged?

On the antenna, try the dash switch to raise and lower, you can set the height and if it’s set to lowest it does just stop at about 3” up.

Have you tried the sunroof yet?

You can peel back that wavy glass trim, its just cosmetic and you can see if there are rivets or screws behind it.

I see some moisture on the steering rack boot, so might be worth checking the fluid level and make sure it isn’t leaking bad. Mine was seeping when I got the truck 5 years ago, I flushed it a bunch and it stopped so I guess I got lucky.

Have fun!

Definitely had the center locker engaged. On a 60, 4WD is engaged with a dash switch, I thought that’s what I was doing. Didn’t realize 100 is AWD, so I inadvertently activated the center locker. It was just for a u-turn, no big deal.

Yep, sunroof works fine. The drains were actually backed up, water got in the truck, and a bit of mold on the upholstery. They had it detailed, but a few spots got missed. I’ll pull up a carpet corner. I think it was a recent one-time thing.

I’m gonna get under it with a high power light, shields removed. However, neighbor keeps it parked in the same spot on fresh concrete for months at a time, and there’s no spotting there.

 

[Kabanstva]

Wow yeah run from that. Radiator looks like a ticking time bomb and interior looks more like 640k miles than the claimed 140k. Gotta be the most trashed and worn interior I’ve ever seen posted here ever.

 

[89BIGBLUE]

This story sounds very familiar, but with a much lower price for my 99.
Love my 62. So does my family.

100 opened the gates for sooo much more family adventure and comfort. Built a small military style trailer to pull with 100. It does great. It’s taken us wherever our heart has desired.

The mileage on the 100 in 2018 when I bought it was like 142,000. Now sitting at just under 200,000.
In the last 7 years I’ve done
Tires.
Full brake pads and rotors.
Plugs.
1 coil pack
Tbelt and clutch and stat and coolant change.
Trans and xfer case fluid
Marathon seat covers (sorry they’re not around anymore) my front seats looked worse than your candidate.
Hexomats
Oil and filter changes
Fuel filter.
A new battery
Basic OME lift (helped with loaded for camping gear).
Belt trim
Tightened rear window hinges
LED bulbs interior.
Steering rack
Front axles
Front ball joints.
Front ARB locker
And I’m sure some more small stuff.

It had a collision on Carafax history as well, but looked ok and drove well at test drive. Paint on mine is shot. I got very lucky and only paid 5k for it, so the money I’ve spent in the last 7 years doesn’t make me feel too bad, so far.

I love it. Wanna keep it as long as I can.
Haven’t found anything as comfy or pleasant to eat up the miles in. Thirsty for sure, but fits the family like a snazzy pair of well broken in work boots, to put it mildly.

Inspect it well, and drive it a bit before deciding.

 

[Super77]

Everyone here is so great to contribute. I’ve been part of a handful of DIY car communities, and the quality of a forum definitely factors into my decision to buy a used vehicle.

 

[Kabanstva]

Everyone here is so great to contribute. I’ve been part of a handful of DIY car communities, and the quality of a forum definitely factors into my decision to buy a used vehicle.

If the seller can come down to a price you feel good about , anything is worth buying. Also look at the these two pics, what I circled in yellow. Looks like a possible steering rack leak. Would be a great bargaining point to lower the price because that’s not a cheap fix.

Edit: gotta be something going on with Mud today, not letting me upload these pics.