Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement (3 Viewers)

[KraziAzn]

I was able to get a long air gun down into the barrel and blew the broken tip out, I tried to catch it with the shopvac but it ended up in the footwell. Anyway, got the replacement shaft in and she's running per normal. I want a better long term fix, it seems these shafts break in like 4 or 5 different spots, so there is no obvious weakspot to fatten up, they are just crap metal. I'm going to mess around with replicating the OEM shaft with something else, maybe like @scottm. Now that it's fixed, it will be a bit, in the middle of a remodel at the house.

I also wanted to add a note since I read through the entire thread and still installed the shaft 180 out.

Once apart and ready to insert new shaft:

• Set the white ignition switch to horizontal with a screwdriver, this will you to know the seat location for the shaft after it is inserted and re-clocked later.
• Loosen the white ignition switch at the back of the barrel, this will allow you to re-clock the shaft one you get the key past the key way at the bottom. Will need to be backed almost all the way off.
• Start shaft with key at 12 o'clock and slide down until it stops (hitting the steering wheel lock)
• Rotate the shaft counter-clockwise where the key is @ 9 o'clock while pressing in, it should then drop down past the keyed hole ( you can test by rotating off of 9 and try to pull it out, the key should keep it in the barrel
• Now rotate the shaft to set the key at the 3 o'clock position it should set the tip/blade end of the shaft horizontal and allow you to seat the white ignition switch.
• Tighten the white ignition switch
• Clock the front blase to the 11/5 o'clock position, set the key tumbler to match this allows the locking tab to be depressed.
• Slide the key tumbler over the shaft and it should seat all the way and set the locking tab at the bottom.
• Re-install the ring and test start the truck, make sure the steering wheel lock is un-locked when started, if it locks you have the blade 180 out.

Hope this helps someone. Keep a steel sleeve, like I posted above, in your tool kit and a long flat-blade screwdriver for the trails.

Does anyone know what size of sleeve I would need in a trail fix?

 

[kingdom77]

Does anyone know what size of sleeve I would need in a trail fix?

So I cut a 10mm deep socket and keep a extra long extension on hand along with a wire coat hanger piece about a foot long. The coat hanger can fish out the broken piece and then the socket will grab the half that’s still in there so you can start it. Just make sure the key is close to the ignition so the anti theft doesn’t keep it from starting.
After mine broke I keep this kit on hand. I drove with the socket set up for over a week while I waited on parts.

 

[kingdom77]

I didn't see any replies. Are all 100s susceptible to this?

YEP

 

[nissanh]

YEP

I'd say any vehicle with a steering lock. There is a post at the first or 2nd page stating the cause of this issue: If the steering is locked, and the key is hard to turn to ACC, just move the steering wheel in the direction is it moving BUT not to the other extreme end. The steering will move about 1 or 2 degrees at most, so just a tad of movement is all it needs, and then turn the ignition key: There should not be any resistance.

 

[Jczajka]

I joined the club the other week with a busted ignition. I knew exactly what it was from reading this thread a few times. Love this forum! Luckily I had all my tools in my truck, including the 12" hemostats from Harbor Freight that were recommended in this thread.

I was able to disassemble everything in the above ground parking lot I was in and twist the broken half with the hemostats to get it started. Left the broken end in to keep the steering lock pin engaged. Just passed the 30 minute window of parking for free and had to pay $3 to get out of the lot.

I ordered the replacement part from my local dealer Friday night and said it would be in Monday I didn't hear from them for 6 days, so I ordered the $20 ebay lock cylinder as a backup, thinking it may be out of stock with Toyota. Turns out it was there the next day and nobody in the parts department called me or changed the order from pending to delivered on my account. The ebay part (minus the hollow in the square part on the end) looked just like the original broken part and the new Toyota part I extracted from the large bracket. Pulled the brass looking plate and spring from my original and installed in the ebay part. So the ebay part went in and truck is working just fine. I ordered a second ebay part to keep in the glove box and my dealer took back the $200 ignition "bracket" without a problem.

 

[kingdom77]

I joined the club the other week with a busted ignition. I knew exactly what it was from reading this thread a few times. Love this forum! Luckily I had all my tools in my truck, including the 12" hemostats from Harbor Freight that were recommended in this thread.

I was able to disassemble everything in the above ground parking lot I was in and twist the broken half with the hemostats to get it started. Left the broken end in to keep the steering lock pin engaged. Just passed the 30 minute window of parking for free and had to pay $3 to get out of the lot.

I ordered the replacement part from my local dealer Friday night and said it would be in Monday I didn't hear from them for 6 days, so I ordered the $20 ebay lock cylinder as a backup, thinking it may be out of stock with Toyota. Turns out it was there the next day and nobody in the parts department called me or changed the order from pending to delivered on my account. The ebay part (minus the hollow in the square part on the end) looked just like the original broken part and the new Toyota part I extracted from the large bracket. Pulled the brass looking plate and spring from my original and installed in the ebay part. So the ebay part went in and truck is working just fine. I ordered a second ebay part to keep in the glove box and my dealer took back the $200 ignition "bracket" without a problem.

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Well done. Welcome to the club.

 

[cwmoser]

Nice ... I worry that this will happen to me.
I better read up on this thread and be prepared.

 

[OOCustoms]

I joined the club the other week with a busted ignition. I knew exactly what it was from reading this thread a few times. Love this forum! Luckily I had all my tools in my truck, including the 12" hemostats from Harbor Freight that were recommended in this thread.

I was able to disassemble everything in the above ground parking lot I was in and twist the broken half with the hemostats to get it started. Left the broken end in to keep the steering lock pin engaged. Just passed the 30 minute window of parking for free and had to pay $3 to get out of the lot.

I ordered the replacement part from my local dealer Friday night and said it would be in Monday I didn't hear from them for 6 days, so I ordered the $20 ebay lock cylinder as a backup, thinking it may be out of stock with Toyota. Turns out it was there the next day and nobody in the parts department called me or changed the order from pending to delivered on my account. The ebay part (minus the hollow in the square part on the end) looked just like the original broken part and the new Toyota part I extracted from the large bracket. Pulled the brass looking plate and spring from my original and installed in the ebay part. So the ebay part went in and truck is working just fine. I ordered a second ebay part to keep in the glove box and my dealer took back the $200 ignition "bracket" without a problem.

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Two things- did you install the Ebay part or the factory Toyota part? If you used the Toyota part you returned the bracket without the internal "key" part that needed replacing?

 

[kingdom77]

Nice ... I worry that this will happen to me.
I better read up on this thread and be prepared.

It’s easy to get the truck going as long as you have the tools and then do the replacement once your home. I would definitely at least order up the eBay part and keep the tools in the truck now. It’s not if but when unfortunately.

 

[Jczajka]

Two things- did you install the Ebay part or the factory Toyota part? If you used the Toyota part you returned the bracket without the internal "key" part that needed replacing?

I used the eBay rod.

I swapped the metal blade, plunger lock thing, and the teeny springs from my broken OE rod. Circled in blue.

I only pulled the new rod out of the "bracket" to see if the ebay casting looked the same. It pretty much does. The new Toyota part was reassembled like stock and put back in the packaging; never needed to use it.

 

[Mike NXP]

Damn these forums, everytime my wheel locks I get paranoid but I am pretty gentle when unlocking wheel / turning key and can't imagine breaking something .On the flipside i camp far from civilization and it seems like more and more prople are posting about failures.

Lol I posted something similar a few months back , ok time to just do something.

I can't justify replacing it with OEM ( $200) but maybe just keeping the ebay part on hand and a tool to fish out the broken piece is a decent compromise.

Is there a OEM replacement for just the rod thing or do you have to buy the full assembly (45280-60460)


Dang , no stock with previous ebay part link . It seems like there are many variations , this B type claims it fits the 98-02
>>Ignition Lock Cylinder Barrel Rod 7850B for Toyota Cruiser 1998-2002 Camry Lexus | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Lock-Cylinder-Barrel-Rod-7850B-for-Toyota-Cruiser-1998-2002-Camry-Lexus/373248917919?hash=item56e75e819f:g:b6AAAOSwm1Jjqtq3&_trksid=p5731.m3795&pageci=1de5d936-dff6-45cc-a8fa-a40dc755ec3e&epid=13005961982&redirect=mobile

 

[flintknapper]

Damn these forums, everytime my wheel locks I get paranoid but I am pretty gentle when unlocking wheel / turning key and can't imagine breaking something .On the flipside i camp far from civilization and it seems like more and more prople are posting about failures.

Lol I posted something similar a few months back , ok time to just do something.

I can't justify replacing it with OEM ( $200) but maybe just keeping the ebay part on hand and a tool to fish out the broken piece is a decent compromise.

Is there a OEM replacement for just the rod thing or do you have to buy the full assembly (45280-60460)


Dang , no stock with previous ebay part link . It seems like there are many variations , this B type claims it fits the 98-02
>>Ignition Lock Cylinder Barrel Rod 7850B for Toyota Cruiser 1998-2002 Camry Lexus | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Lock-Cylinder-Barrel-Rod-7850B-for-Toyota-Cruiser-1998-2002-Camry-Lexus/373248917919?hash=item56e75e819f:g:b6AAAOSwm1Jjqtq3&_trksid=p5731.m3795&pageci=1de5d936-dff6-45cc-a8fa-a40dc755ec3e&epid=13005961982&redirect=mobile

No OEM replacement for just the rod. Hence.... the availability from the aftermarket.

Be sure you get the correct one. They are different for Manual Tilt steering wheels and Automatic Tilt/Telescopic.

Manual is 7850B

 

[nissanh]

No OEM replacement for just the rod. Hence.... the availability from the aftermarket.

Be sure you get the correct one. They are different for Manual Tilt steering wheels and Automatic Tilt/Telescopic.

Manual is 7850B

The same seller had the 7853B for 98-02
Steering Wheel Ignition Tumbler Lock Barrel Cylinder Shaft Rod 7853B 4528060510 For Toyota Land Cruiser 1998-2002 Lexus LX4701998–2002.
The post 23 shows this 7853B for an 01 but the post does not state it as LC or LX.

 

[flintknapper]

The same seller had the 7853B for 98-02
Steering Wheel Ignition Tumbler Lock Barrel Cylinder Shaft Rod 7853B 4528060510 For Toyota Land Cruiser 1998-2002 Lexus LX4701998–2002.
The post 23 shows this 7853B for an 01 but the post does not state it as LC or LX.

I don't know what option possibilities were available for each model in that slot of years.

I've not personally seen an LX without auto tilt/telescopic (but perhaps it could ordered that way). And I don't know if U.S. Market Land Cruisers could be had with auto tilt/telescopic as an option to the standard manual tilt.

I suspect the ad was written to cover those possibilities.....or maybe they just don't know what they are talking about. But my understanding (if not wrong) is that the 7850 is for manual and the 7853 versions for the auto tilt, without regard to the vehicle (LX/LC).

 

[Jczajka]

I don't know what option possibilities were available for each model in that slot of years.

The one I bought for my LX, with power tilt of course is ebay item: 373230117230

Seems to be available

 

[cwmoser]

It’s easy to get the truck going as long as you have the tools and then do the replacement once your home. I would definitely at least order up the eBay part and keep the tools in the truck now. It’s not if but when unfortunately.

I'm just getting into this and do worry if it does break, what to do.
What process and tools do you need?
Still disassemble dash as in the video?
Do you insert a long screwdriver down in the Ignition barrel to start the vehicle?

I've ordered the 7853B rod for my 2002 LX470, just to be prepared.

 

[flintknapper]

The one I bought for my LX, with power tilt of course is ebay item: 373230117230

Seems to be available

That should be correct for your vehicle (with auto tilt/telescopic).

 

[ait109]

I'm just getting into this and do worry if it does break, what to do.
What process and tools do you need?
Still disassemble dash as in the video?
Do you insert a long screwdriver down in the Ignition barrel to start the vehicle?

I've ordered the 7853B rod for my 2002 LX470, just to be prepared.

I've replaced it twice now; once every 10 years. Once it broke in my driveway, the other when my son had the rig about 10 miles away. If someone else drives the rig, proactively changing a 10+ year old rod, in the comfort of your garage/driveway, on your own schedule, is worth considering.

 

[Jczajka]

I'm just getting into this and do worry if it does break, what to do.
What process and tools do you need?
Still disassemble dash as in the video?
Do you insert a long screwdriver down in the Ignition barrel to start the vehicle?

I've ordered the 7853B rod for my 2002 LX470, just to be prepared.

Taking the dash apart is just a couple of Phillips head screws and 10mm bolts. Someone posted a walk through earlier. Take the cover off around the steering column, turn the wheel to the side and get the screws from behind the wheel on the same cover. Pop the black panel off by the gauges, the remove the dash trim under the wheel. Metal plate under all that gets removed next. Turn the key to the middle position and depress the button halfway down the ignition bracket with a pen or something to remove the lock tumbler. Pull out broken part. You can pop the black plastic HVAC duct off, one screw in the front holding it in and then pop it out. You will have full access to the back of the ignition bracket where the electronic part engages with the ignition rod end.

Need to keep the broken half of the rod in the bottom of the ignition and turn it to start the truck AND keep the steering lock disengaged. Otherwise, if you remove it completely, the steering lock will engage. You won't be able to turn the wheel. This is only if you want to drive it.

If you got far enough to start removing everything, you might as well just replace the rod with a new one that you carry with you. Better yet to it it before it breaks

 

[nissanh]

I've replaced it twice now; once every 10 years. Once it broke in my driveway, the other when my son had the rig about 10 miles away. If someone else drives the rig, proactively changing a 10+ year old rod, in the comfort of your garage/driveway, on your own schedule, is worth considering.

This is not a wear item. One of the initial posts (first or 2nd page) discusses this and how it happens.

Basically, if you take the key out of ignition while wheels are turned, the steering may lock: Very normal. When you try to start and if the key feels tight to turn: STOP! turn the steering wheel little to the left or rigth and then carefully try to turn the ignition key.
Issue is the twisting nature of wheel tire/rubber put pressure on the latch that makes the wheel to lock. Releiving this pressure makes the ignition to turn normally.

Once a friend of mine got panicked and called me... I ask them to turn the steering ro left or rigth and turn the ignition and it worked:

When parking your truck, try to keep the wheels straight or steering wheel in straight orientation.

Mine is manual tilt so 7850B is what I need to buy.