The original broken shaft is on the left, the new and improved part is on the right. Note how much thicker the new one is in the area where the old one broke and how they removed the sharp corner and added taper and radius to the area.
Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement
- Thread starter chukiechz
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The original broken shaft is on the left, the new and improved part is on the right. Note how much thicker the new one is in the area where the old one broke and how they removed the sharp corner and added taper and radius to the area.
Did you get this done? Keyless, push button is my next mod. My wife's car has this feature and it's great.
I've had quite a few other projects in play so I havent got to it yet.
Well this happened to me tonight. Slight difference though; the car is on. The motor isn't running, but everything else is... At least its in the driveway. Earlier today I was busy telling someone that my Land Cruiser is the most reliable truck on earth. awesome.
informationjunky said:
That pict says a thousand words, wow its beefed up considerable, thanks for posting that pict, people getting that part should take note and make sure you get this one and not some old stock variation.
Parked alongside the 4th of July Parade route, and enjoyed the Parade. The wifey wanted to lower one of the windows, and came back saying the key was turning weird. I checked and the key turns with no resistance and the steering column does not unlock. Looks like I've found my problem.
my part arrived today./. thanks to informationjunky for his write up...
took about 30mins to replace the part... and an hour to get the bottom broken part out of the cylinder grrrrrrrrrrrrr hahahaha
took about 30mins to replace the part... and an hour to get the bottom broken part out of the cylinder grrrrrrrrrrrrr hahahaha
Hello all,
This thread has completely saved my bank account. I got the parts as mentioned, by their part number. Here's the thing though:
After installing the new rod, it start perfectly. Everything was functional as it should. The thing is... my steering wheel locked up when I went to turn. So in my mind, I knew I had put in the rod 180 deg backward. I opened up everything again and and switched it around, inserting the rod 180 around. It won't start up now! What's going on?
I've made sure all of the plugs were hooked up. It cranks but doesn't fire. The steering wheel column locks without the key, and doesn't with the key in. This is what it should be like but the engine isn't firing up.
Any help would be great. I'm losing it with trying to insert this rod in ways that are or are not triggering the mechanisms for ignition.
This thread has completely saved my bank account. I got the parts as mentioned, by their part number. Here's the thing though:
After installing the new rod, it start perfectly. Everything was functional as it should. The thing is... my steering wheel locked up when I went to turn. So in my mind, I knew I had put in the rod 180 deg backward. I opened up everything again and and switched it around, inserting the rod 180 around. It won't start up now! What's going on?
I've made sure all of the plugs were hooked up. It cranks but doesn't fire. The steering wheel column locks without the key, and doesn't with the key in. This is what it should be like but the engine isn't firing up.
Any help would be great. I'm losing it with trying to insert this rod in ways that are or are not triggering the mechanisms for ignition.
PHD, did you get this re-installed and working?? I have this problem this evening, and can see myself ending up like you. Mostly done, but still with a broken truck...
Just an update. I ended up taking mine to the local guy who takes care of my vehicles. After a lot of foul language, they finally fixed this problem, and sounds like busted a few other parts along the way. Something to do with the airbag system. No extra cost to me, but a few days in the shop + close to $700 for this repair. Toyota should not be proud of this part's design and implementation...
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Another one bites the dust.
My considered opinion is that the best way to affect this repair is to pull the whole steering column and do the replacement on the work bench.
Pulling the steering column took about 45 minutes, replacing it took slightly longer.
Hints;
Pull the AC duct that runs under the column early in the process, it makes things much easier.
Mark the steering shaft where it enters the rag joint to aid in re-installing, a light colored metal ink marker would be ideal.
I ended up with an extra screw, and most likely a new dash board rattle. I should have used my cupcake tin to hold the parts. Just put the screws in a new pocket at each stage of dis-asembly, I go top to bottom left to right. This really helps when you do a project like this.
Don't buy the security screws, if a thief gets that far into your truck those screws aren't going to help. Get some 8X1.25X25mm hex socket screws instead. Hex Cap screws won't work due to clearance issues.
To Remove the old security screws cut a slot with a dremel tool or, do what Spresso did, use a flat screw driver and a hammer and cut a slot. Do both sides before you totally remove either screw, we did one side and it allowed a lot of play which made cutting the second slot harder.
My considered opinion is that the best way to affect this repair is to pull the whole steering column and do the replacement on the work bench.
Pulling the steering column took about 45 minutes, replacing it took slightly longer.
Hints;
Pull the AC duct that runs under the column early in the process, it makes things much easier.
Mark the steering shaft where it enters the rag joint to aid in re-installing, a light colored metal ink marker would be ideal.
I ended up with an extra screw, and most likely a new dash board rattle. I should have used my cupcake tin to hold the parts. Just put the screws in a new pocket at each stage of dis-asembly, I go top to bottom left to right. This really helps when you do a project like this.
Don't buy the security screws, if a thief gets that far into your truck those screws aren't going to help. Get some 8X1.25X25mm hex socket screws instead. Hex Cap screws won't work due to clearance issues.
To Remove the old security screws cut a slot with a dremel tool or, do what Spresso did, use a flat screw driver and a hammer and cut a slot. Do both sides before you totally remove either screw, we did one side and it allowed a lot of play which made cutting the second slot harder.
informationjunky said:
I needed that last piece of advice about using a hanger to fish the broken piece out. I'm also going to unplug the wires so I can get to the screws on the white plate better. So far I haven't been able to get them loose.
This reminds me I need to do this as a PM. Would absolutely stink to have this happen on the trail...
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Just happened to my wife. Bummer. I had this happen to my Avalon a few months ago. Just glad it wasn't out in the boondocks. Anyone know what year the improved design started as OEM? This is every bit the killer defect as the tranny - at least in terms of leaving you stranded...
PM is a great idea and it motivated me to order the part this week along with the plastic heater hose T's.
Sent from an outhouse
Add starter contacts and you'll have a trifecta!
Did that three weeks ago, or at least paid someone to do it as the starter died out of town!
Sent from an outhouse
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Fixed, thanks to murf at Camelback Toyota in Phoenix! As always, great service, great price and the DD is back on the road.
Common trouble spots
Glad I found you guys!
'01 LX470 just joined the ignition club. Wife ran battery down yesterday running heater without engine on! Battery jump worked. Today she's stranded because key just freewheels in ignition and accessories dash lights are on.
I removed plastic dash covers and looked around. After reading this thread, I'm sure it's a broken cam rod. (Maybe weakened from forcing key around during yesterday's misadventure? I'll keep that to myself!) Disconnected battery in parking lot. Wrote down your part #. Now I'll at least be prepared for getting it towed/fixed tomorrow. Thanks for the info and especially pictures in thread!
Also at end of thread, talking PM, I've had busted heating hose T connectors in SUV, and bad starter contact points on my '98 LS400 !!! Any other trouble spots I should learn about?
Glad I found you guys!
'01 LX470 just joined the ignition club. Wife ran battery down yesterday running heater without engine on! Battery jump worked. Today she's stranded because key just freewheels in ignition and accessories dash lights are on.
I removed plastic dash covers and looked around. After reading this thread, I'm sure it's a broken cam rod. (Maybe weakened from forcing key around during yesterday's misadventure? I'll keep that to myself!) Disconnected battery in parking lot. Wrote down your part #. Now I'll at least be prepared for getting it towed/fixed tomorrow. Thanks for the info and especially pictures in thread!
Also at end of thread, talking PM, I've had busted heating hose T connectors in SUV, and bad starter contact points on my '98 LS400 !!! Any other trouble spots I should learn about?
I hope others jump here but if you have the luxury of replacing the cam as PM I would guess the clocking 180 degrees in the wrong direction would be a lot easier to avoid, right? I ask as that's my plan (knock wood).
For those of you who have done this please let me know your thoughts. Anything you would do differently as PM instead of replacement related to a cam failure?
Also, as PM I hope to avoid the hassle of fishing the broken end out.
I want to be proactive on this as my starter dying out of town wasn't much fun.
For those of you who have done this please let me know your thoughts. Anything you would do differently as PM instead of replacement related to a cam failure?
Also, as PM I hope to avoid the hassle of fishing the broken end out.
I want to be proactive on this as my starter dying out of town wasn't much fun.
