Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter chukiechz
- Start date
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So here is my question, he reassembled it and now it doesn't lock in any mode, key or not??
I believe the guy messed up. He should take it apart again and do it correctly. Did he just change the rod, or the whole housing? If installed 180 degrees wrong, then I believe you can't get the rod out without removing the whole housing. I don't think you can't get a tool in there to push aside the dead bolt when the rod is not broken. Maybe locksmiths have special tools for this.
Just replaced the rod/cam. Already had it in 180 and it locked with the key on, flipped it 180 and no lock at all. He can pull the entire bracket as he didn't break of the anti theft heads yet.
How did he flip the rod with the column locked? I don't think there is a way to get the rod out (or turned) without taking the housing out. I did mine last fall without removing the housing and it was hard enough to get the half-rod out, but at least I could get a screwdriver in there to push the locking cylinder aside. With the complete rod intact, I couldn't see a way to get it out and turn it without removing the housing.
I'm assuming he just pulled the whole assembly out?
This just happened to me, too. Luckily the part was available locally ($200). Toyota has redesigned the part, as it is now much beefier in the area that breaks on the original part. Thanks to parnoren for the tutorial.
Anybody know if that cam assembly is the same for LC's of similar vintage? I'd prefer not to spend the 500 dollars at my local Lexus stealership to get a whole set of new locks. I only need the cam section, as my cylinder and immobilizer still work perfectly fine.
Has anyone tried something like this:
Advanced Keys - AK-103B Smart Key with Push Start System
I wish I had found it before I purchased new keys. I will definitely do something like this before any more new keys and hopefully before this lock cylinder falls apart.
Advanced Keys - AK-103B Smart Key with Push Start System
I wish I had found it before I purchased new keys. I will definitely do something like this before any more new keys and hopefully before this lock cylinder falls apart.
Subscribing. I also would like to her if anyone has done the start button or something similar. Also thanks for all the great info in this thread as i am in the same boat and have been using a screw driver to start my 2000 lx. Stealership quoted 1200-1500 if keyed to match my doors, 850-1000 if repaired with a non-matching key. Wtf!?!?
Just had mine fixed by my independent mechanic but now when I turn steering wheel on 90 degree turns I get a metal clicking/clanking noise (more so on right turns than left). Taking it back on Friday, but wondered if anyone has experience this and what the source of the noise is?
Clock Spring??
OK, so last night the key wouldn't turn. It's taken a little coaxing about once a week as long as I have owned it (15 mos./ 25k mi). I was prepared to go to the dealer for the parts today, thought a little dry-wax lubricant was worth a shot. It started immediately. Did I fix a problem or just put off a new ignition for a few days?
Was planning on taking the family out for a drive in the woods tomorrow, not so sure now. I would appreciate any feedback.
Was planning on taking the family out for a drive in the woods tomorrow, not so sure now. I would appreciate any feedback.
Boy did this forum save our butts today. After this exact thing happened yesterday to my '01 LX 470, the dealer told us we needed a complete ignition cylinder for $641 which he had to order. After reading here, I called them back, and the parts guy had to go talk to a tech who confirmed that the cam and rod were in stock for $194. It's still not fixed yet, the car broke at my wife's office and working on it at home is not an option. Will keep you posted, but thanks to everyone here for the sage advice.
Anyone post the part number of this little gem? The shaft, not the whole assy.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Post 38.
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Part #45280-60510. They sold it to us with two bolts which we also had to pay for, but use your own bolts if you are going to take the old ones out. The dealer does not call this part a cam and rod. He said those terms are used for American cars. They call this part a bracket and sheath. This didn't make any sense to me, but we'll let semantics be what they may.
The rod is made of pot metal. Can't believe it lasted 10 years on the LX. Hopefully I can get this installed today and my wife can drive her car home from the office.
The rod is made of pot metal. Can't believe it lasted 10 years on the LX. Hopefully I can get this installed today and my wife can drive her car home from the office.
Thank you for posting that.
TPZ calls it a "OEM Toyota BRACKET ASSY, STEERI"
This is for the power tilt
This is for the manual tilt (like mine)
TPZ calls it a "OEM Toyota BRACKET ASSY, STEERI"
This is for the power tilt
This is for the manual tilt (like mine)
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Do not use the factory bolts. At $3+ a piece, it is the same taper head bolt. Buy hardened metric head bolts of the same length at Ace Hardware. Use lock tight red to put them in, and the proper size of Allen head driver. Don't over torque them. If they ever need to come out again, you can get a tool on them and they will back out with just a little heat applied.
