Busted front diff!! 98 Landcruiser _words of wisdom... (1 Viewer)
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Trunk Monkey
Moderator
There are plenty of people who wheel the pee out of the 98/99 100's and have no problems. It's the circumstance at the time it breaks, if it does. It's definitely a weak link, but it's by no means a guaranteed break.
And all 2000's transmissions fail... dont forget.
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- #24
I really thought an ARB was the best route but then I STILL had to replace my Ring and Pinion. That was $1100 for parts at Dealer or about $750 fr Justdifferentials.. Then another 900 for ARB, plus compressor, then labor. Labor was quoted at 7-8 hours minimum. Figure $100 an hour at most shops. shipping also from JT another 30$ if I just bought the Ring and Pinion. 430 ratio. Roughly $2500. But there is some maintenance that you have to pay attention to with Lockers also and I don't wheel enough to have to worry about the lockers maintenance on top of that extra $500. I was CLOSE to pulling the trigger though, but had to figure in both axle boots as well and so overall the 4 pin was the way for me to go. Carl was AWESOME at JD! very knowledgable. and helpful.
I was going to re-gear but would have had to regear front and back and teh over all costs vs the benefit did not justify. I run 33 inch tires (Yoko geolanders) and that is apparently the grey area of regearing. My truck runs quiet and smooth on all the road trips we take so I felt the 430 was good for us. 488 would have been to high revving for long trips. and a 410 I assume would be no good for 33 inch tires and highway driving either as It'd have a loss of power it would seem.
Honestly locking up the front and back with ARB would be ideal though! But you'd probably want to modify the suspension too since its IFS.
Sadly I do think my 96 was more rugged off road ...
I was going to re-gear but would have had to regear front and back and teh over all costs vs the benefit did not justify. I run 33 inch tires (Yoko geolanders) and that is apparently the grey area of regearing. My truck runs quiet and smooth on all the road trips we take so I felt the 430 was good for us. 488 would have been to high revving for long trips. and a 410 I assume would be no good for 33 inch tires and highway driving either as It'd have a loss of power it would seem.
Honestly locking up the front and back with ARB would be ideal though! But you'd probably want to modify the suspension too since its IFS.
Sadly I do think my 96 was more rugged off road ...
Amen my brutha!
Ripping the front diff is typically the result of shock loading the drive system further exacerbated in reverse; plenty of 2 and 4 pinion front 100-Series diffs as proof.
And although there is positive proof an ARB carrier is more rigid than the OEM carrier resulting in better durability...anything can be broken...especially with enough skinny pedal applied at just the wrong moment.
The OP admits to rocking the rig back and forth...and then mostly likely blowing the diff while doing same in reverse.
Although I personally would opt for the ARB upgrade route, especially given my application of the vehicle, with an altered driving style the 4-pinion with good tread tires might be enough to prevent the same thing from happening again. Or not
And although there is positive proof an ARB carrier is more rigid than the OEM carrier resulting in better durability...anything can be broken...especially with enough skinny pedal applied at just the wrong moment.
The OP admits to rocking the rig back and forth...and then mostly likely blowing the diff while doing same in reverse.
Although I personally would opt for the ARB upgrade route, especially given my application of the vehicle, with an altered driving style the 4-pinion with good tread tires might be enough to prevent the same thing from happening again. Or not
bluecruiser
SILVER Star
Mine grenaded but I was definitely pushing it hard. That was a few years ago, though. I went with a brand new front diff from Toyota and the ARB. Now, I feel totally good about the diff, next weakest link would be the CV's. I have not seen that many other 100's in action to know how hard people are wheeling with 2 and 4 pinion diffs.
I have feared the skinny pedal on the trails since finding the info here on 'mud. I've decided not to wait for a failure, my front diff sits on the floor and will be headed to JT's tomorrow for an ARB, Master Kit and Solid Pinion spacer. This should save me from ending up in a situation where I need to do both diffs (re-gear to avoid the 4.30 prices) or have to get a complete front housing, etc...
That said the LC has about 190k on it and it looks like the diff has never been out so the two pinion made it this far and I have wheeled it fairly hard (owned since 165k)... soon I can wheel it like I want to.
That said the LC has about 190k on it and it looks like the diff has never been out so the two pinion made it this far and I have wheeled it fairly hard (owned since 165k)... soon I can wheel it like I want to.
I paid 975$ for a complete new differential, ring, pinion, spider carrier, diff housing. One complete unit filled with oil. AND that is 975$ Canadien. So probably less in US dollars....sorry it is cheaper then ARB option, well at least here in Canada when i bought mine. Now even if it is cheaper i fully understand that a 4 pinion diff is probably less stronger then a ARB (open).
I'm saying it again in case i wasn't understood properly, i did not change Ring and pinion, that's way more expensive, i did not replace the complete diff carrier or complet diff with a 2 pinion one (those that break when going from ice to tarmac). But a 4 pinion, the stronger one, the one i've yet to read someone breaking them.
And i have a complete spare from housing here in case i ever decide to go ARB way!!
hoser
SILVER Star
Converting to part-time 4wd will also reduce the chances of blowing the front diff.
You wouldn't have had a 2 pinion design in your 2001. The 2 pinion diff was only in the 98-99's. If I'm understanding what you are saying you purchased a used entire 3rd member and just swapped it in without changing your gear ratio correct? So did you destroy a 4 pinion diff possibly?
EDIT: I haven't full read your story from post # 3. Sorry I see you are in Canada and I'm also not as familiar with your setup / options as the 100's we have in the states.
My truck is a HDJ100 swap; thread ( https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/372709-hdj100-swap.html ) and result (Landcruiser HDJ100 engine sound test - YouTube)
So yes i had the 2 pinion from a 1999 HDJ100. Thats what i blew. And i replaced it with a completely new housing from toyota with the correct ratio (diesel ratio) for 975$ + tx, it was new in the box not used.
The UZJ100 receiver of the Diesel engine is a 2001 from the USA, but it is not running any mechanical components from the V8.
So yes i had the 2 pinion from a 1999 HDJ100. Thats what i blew. And i replaced it with a completely new housing from toyota with the correct ratio (diesel ratio) for 975$ + tx, it was new in the box not used.
The UZJ100 receiver of the Diesel engine is a 2001 from the USA, but it is not running any mechanical components from the V8.
lol, like removing that 4x4 button on the center dash.
Converting to part-time 4wd will also reduce the chances of blowing the front diff.
JT differentials is as good as any for pricing and setup...they set up hundreds a year easily so you wont have to worry about someone doing it their first time or that is unfamiliar with Land Cruisers....they have the experience to do it right if you cant do it yourself or have a good trust friend to help with that experience.
bluecruiser said:
I cant remember how you ended up with a new 4 pinion Toyota diff but I double checked my old PM's and I purchased this diff from you 4 years ago. I really appreciate the exceptional deal you gave me back then. It was a good learning experience doing the work myself and good Cruiser karma that I even found the part back then. When I put an ARB up front hopefully I can return the favor to someone in need in the future.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
The break happens way more than what is reflected on the board. Ask me, after every snow storm in Denver we get the calls. Same with the OP. He had it towed to a shop that knows Jeeps and their initial diagnoses was a broken transfer case. Whenever we get that call, we can put money on it that the front diff is broken and the shop does not understand the 100 drive train so the transfer case is blamed.
There are typically two breaks, you shear the teeth of the ring gear, or snap the spider gears. The latter one is the lucky one of you did not drive it much and made a metal food processor of the diff. That way you transfer the ring and pinion to an ARB, if you trashed the ring gear, then you have to find that. Not easy to find it used. New does not make sense since you can get a new diff for not much more. Again depending on the driving post break, you might also trash the bearings etc etc.
Botton line is if it breaks. Stop driving immediately. If you can pull drive flanges and drive shaft, ok. Otherwise get it towed. That way you would save the bearings in the diff.
Was the diff from JT's a new Toyota diff, or a remanufactured diff?
There are typically two breaks, you shear the teeth of the ring gear, or snap the spider gears. The latter one is the lucky one of you did not drive it much and made a metal food processor of the diff. That way you transfer the ring and pinion to an ARB, if you trashed the ring gear, then you have to find that. Not easy to find it used. New does not make sense since you can get a new diff for not much more. Again depending on the driving post break, you might also trash the bearings etc etc.
Botton line is if it breaks. Stop driving immediately. If you can pull drive flanges and drive shaft, ok. Otherwise get it towed. That way you would save the bearings in the diff.
Was the diff from JT's a new Toyota diff, or a remanufactured diff?
bluecruiser
SILVER Star
jgray said:
I forgot about selling it. Glad it worked out for you. 4 years ago, wow!
sleeoffroad said:
Would removing the front drive shaft be sufficient?
^^^No...the CV's will still turn the diff with the hub flanges installed. You need to remove the front drive shaft AND the front hub flanges. Or carry hub flanges that have the splines removed...
front diff explosions is one of those things that worries me about taking a long trek. I'm building my rig to one day take the kids to the southwest and the Rockies on a cross country (from the southeast) trip.
I understand upgrading the diff to ARB would be the obvious preventive installation, but considering money, what would I do if I busted the factory diff half way across the country? As Slee suggests, pull the drive flanges and drive shaft? Would this get the Hundy back home without repair or a tow? If so, I'd like to familiarize myself with the tools and know how necessary to get it done.
I understand upgrading the diff to ARB would be the obvious preventive installation, but considering money, what would I do if I busted the factory diff half way across the country? As Slee suggests, pull the drive flanges and drive shaft? Would this get the Hundy back home without repair or a tow? If so, I'd like to familiarize myself with the tools and know how necessary to get it done.
