Bumpstop Options (1 Viewer)

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93jspec

Cruising Central Texas
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May 7, 2011
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Got a deal on some 14inch 5125's for my FJ40:

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Obviously the 14's are a little long, and logic says..it would be cheaper to buy shorter ones than fancy pants bump stops, but I believe I can make them work. Plan is to move the Ford shock towers to the top of the frame then gusset and brace it. Also going to move the lower shock mounting location to the side/bottom back side of the axle. That should give me about another 5 inches.

I am currently looking at:

Daystar Stingers: $209 a pair http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dys-ku71090bk/media/images

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FOA 2.0: $300 a pair: http://f-o-a.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_44&products_id=25

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Sway-A-Way : $253.00 each so $506 a pair..:censor:

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Sway-A-Way-2.0-Air-Bump-Stops-p-17676.html

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Fox 2.0: $201.00 each $402 a pair: http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Fox-2.0-Air-Bump-Stops-p-63.html

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Any other options? Suggestions regarding the bump stops? Or should I just extend the brackets for regular bump stops? Pro's cons of each?
 
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It looks like a wicked frame off build and I hate to discourage a guy from spending money, but i need to ask why?

It doesn't look like you are going to be jumping the truck or risk bending axles with the SUA set up so why waste the money on a set of air bumps? Buy a set of 10" billies and leave it the way you have it. Your SUA isn't going to use all the shock anyway?

No mounting cans, fabbing pads ect. And truth be told you should always run a set of rubber bumps with the air bumps anyway. KEEP IT SIMPLE> buy new shocks.
 
It looks like a wicked frame off build and I hate to discourage a guy from spending money, but i need to ask why?

It doesn't look like you are going to be jumping the truck or risk bending axles with the SUA set up so why waste the money on a set of air bumps? Buy a set of 10" billies and leave it the way you have it. Your SUA isn't going to use all the shock anyway?

No mounting cans, fabbing pads ect. And truth be told you should always run a set of rubber bumps with the air bumps anyway. KEEP IT SIMPLE> buy new shocks.

Valid points all of them. It is kind of along the same line of thinking I originally had, just buy new shocks...but I was going to have to do bump stops anyways. My original thought was to basically extend the bump stop mount and then add a quality bump stop in hopes it helps to force the opposite side droop a bit more. The intent of the build is more over landing with mild crawling. Thank you for the response. :cheers:
 
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I like the functionality of those Daystars .. you can make 'em harder or softer within small range, no need to charge or worry about seals or anything on them .. just fix your can and wheel it ..
 
I like the functionality of those Daystars .. you can make 'em harder or softer within small range, no need to charge or worry about seals or anything on them .. just fix your can and wheel it ..

I agree, although 90% of the people on Pirate 4x4 disagree. I like the idea I can replace the innards and wont have to worry about a bump stop loosing air/fluid of any type. I am also partial to these out of the ones here due to cost. If I was to do what I listed above it would all still come out close to the same cost overall. The extensions from Marks are $44 for a pair, not including the bump stop's themselves at $56 each. I am not even sure that the extensions are long enough. Making my own would be a little more time consuming and not as clean...ah decisions decisions.. :D
 
IMHO, seems like a lot of extra work for unusable shock travel. SOA?

Good looking project though... do you have a build thread?
 
IMHO, seems like a lot of extra work for unusable shock travel. SOA?

Good looking project though... do you have a build thread?

SOA, no want to stay SUA. The idea was to improve up travel on for the front shock by moving the upper shock mount o the top of the frame gaining a couple inches that way, and moving the lower shock mount gaining a couple more inches. The extended/can bumpstops I figured would force droop on the opposite side. The more I sat and looked at it I figured that the springs would settle and I would be right back where I am now so I went ahead and ordered 12 inch shocks, will still move the lower shock mounts and just extend my bumpstops. My signature has a link to my build, thanks for looking and having input, I appreciate all thoughts and recommendations.
 
The bushings in the daystars doesn't hold up well.....foa's leak notoriously.....watch pirate for a whole and you can find some used fox, king, swayaway, bilstein, racerunner, or radflo's for around $200 and they are all good quality
 
The bushings in the daystars doesn't hold up well.....foa's leak notoriously.....watch pirate for a whole and you can find some used fox, king, swayaway, bilstein, racerunner, or radflo's for around $200 and they are all good quality

:clap: Thanks, been awhile since I checked out Pirate classifieds.
 
I just put a set of these in the back of my 80 and they made a world of a difference. Just a big soft rubber bump basically but I never felt the bottom of it during some spirited driving in Moab two weeks ago.

http://www.justdifferentials.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4135

Not on your list but maybe a simple option.

Not actually a bump stop, but a helper spring and old, amongst other places found originally on Volvo TGB from 1975.
A lot have thought that their leafs have sagged, when discovering that the distance between the axles and these are just over an inch, but its supposed to be that way.
 
Not actually a bump stop, but a helper spring and old, amongst other places found originally on Volvo TGB from 1975.
A lot have thought that their leafs have sagged, when discovering that the distance between the axles and these are just over an inch, but its supposed to be that way.

Correct but I positioned mine well over the axle 3-4" rather than the 3/4" that you would want for it to act as a helper spring. Plus these springs/bumpers are much softer than the units provided to work as helper springs. So they do basically the same thing as the high tech gas charged units. I'm sure not as well, but at a lower price, bolt in, and no maintenance.

Sorry for the crappy camera phone pics. 1st one shows it in place. 2nd compared to OEM bumpstop. 3rd, is the original mounting bracket supplied for the helper spring application verse a shorter unit. I have since swapped out for a little higher mounting bracket. Timbren seems happy to send you all the different combos on their dime after your initial purchase. That part was frustrating at first as I knew I did not want a helper spring. But in the end I've been very happy with the results and will probably do the same up front.

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I apologize ahead of time for these comments, but I suck at typing and it took me a while to write this and I don't have the energy to soften the wording. If you are offended then, for that I apologize.
(D!ck mode on)
So, I kinda feel like I'm throwing a turd in the pool, but I'm having trouble with your logic... In one breath, you state you got too good a deal on the shocks to pass them up, yet you are now looking at losing all that saved cash by buying expensive and (IMHO) unnecessary bump stops.
I get the cool factor and all, but the amount of effort you will expend to make this square peg fit the round hole seems pointless.
I mean no disrespect, but, to be blunt, your idea is Rube Goldberg silly.

The open secret is we do alot of the work on our trucks not only for function and our personal idea of what "cool" is, but also for show and for positive comments/approval from those whose opinions we value.

I may not be one of those people, but I'm pretty sure someone who is well schooled in suspension fabrication and whose approval you would appreciate, would scoff at the use of such an enourmous shock, let alone the crazy fabrication that went into it, for such a moderate SUA build.

My advice: sell the shock for a small profit, buy the correct ones, add the bling of the cool bumpstops (which ARE sweet) and spare yourself the ridicule of having a picture of your rig posted on a virtual wall of shame for using a 10lb hammer to drive a tack.

(D!ck mode off)
 

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