"bum bum bum POP" - Introduction to Tanimal & a rookie's cry for help.

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Well I'd be be doing at least a dry/wet compression test with all the plugs out just using the starter. Got a bore scope so you can at least look at the wall and perhaps the valves if your compression test are on the weak side. Do you have a direct read oil pressure gauge.

I think that rocker is twisting sideways on the shaft. I had that happen once due to wear (on both the shaft and the rocker bushing) on a used engine I got. I bought a whole new used assembly of ebay cheap. Slow shipper but it got here and was in better shape.
 
Okay I've been reviewing the manual, it appears that my broken piece from the photo is the lifter rod. I'm thinking this means cyl 2 can't open for exhaust, so the popping is the compression shooting up the intake when it's the intake valve's turn to open.

I feel slightly better because this would mean that the valves & cylinders have stayed somewhat protected (and that it can hold compression for at least 0.1 seconds!.

It looks like the lifter could have slipped lower, is that possible? I know it's damaged, but this lifter rod is noticeable lower than the rest. I'm going to look into the available access points for these lifters, I'm guessing there are few.

(also, anyone have oil type/formulation recommendations? I've seen Rotella 15w-40 mentioned with a little zinc?)
 
Mechranic said:
Okay I've been reviewing the manual, it appears that my broken piece from the photo is the lifter rod. I'm thinking this means cyl 2 can't open for exhaust, so the popping is the compression shooting up the intake when it's the intake valve's turn to open.

I feel slightly better because this would mean that the valves & cylinders have stayed somewhat protected (and that it can hold compression for at least 0.1 seconds!.

It looks like the lifter could have slipped lower, is that possible? I know it's damaged, but this lifter rod is noticeable lower than the rest. I'm going to look into the available access points for these lifters, I'm guessing there are few.

(also, anyone have oil type/formulation recommendations? I've seen Rotella 15w-40 mentioned with a little zinc?)
Click to expand...
It looks like the rocker is/ was seized solid on the shaft and the push rod has hammered itself against it causing it to peen over into this shape.
Is that valve actually free to move (can you open it at all manually by pushing down against the spring?
You need at least a new push rod, and to figure out how to free up that rocker (assuming that is still stuck). Might need a new rocker shaft and rocker.
You need to pull the rocker assembly off; strip & inspect.
Then figure out why it had no oil
 
45Dougal said:
It looks like the rocker is/ was seized solid on the shaft and the push rod has hammered itself against it causing it to peen over into this shape.
Is that valve actually free to move (can you open it at all manually by pushing down against the spring?
You need at least a new push rod, and to figure out how to free up that rocker (assuming that is still stuck). Might need a new rocker shaft and rocker.
You need to pull the rocker assembly off; strip & inspect.
Then figure out why it had no oil
Click to expand...
The rocker is okay, I can compress the spring a little, same as there rest. (I'm not very strong) I still don't know for sure how the push rod died, thinking a combo of running rich causing backfires, and poor oil flow.
 
Mechranic said:
The rocker is okay, I can compress the spring a little, same as there rest. (I'm not very strong) I still don't know for sure how the push rod died, thinking a combo of running rich causing backfires, and poor oil flow.
Click to expand...
Could have been a mild heat seizure which freed up when it cooled.
Any idea where the oil went?
 
Updates:

I drained the oil, there was probably about 6 liters in there. It occurs to me that since the car had sat still for 3 weeks, with only a few instances where I had it idling for <2 minutes, is it normal for the valve area to dry out?

The pinging is fixed!: I decided to repair the busted push rod. (Some used ones are in the mail as well). I installed that just now and the car idles!!! (very slow, but steady). It seems the broken push rod was the source of the pop/pinging. If that's the case, that means I drove/limped about 3 hrs with the broken rod & rich fuel mixture. (Oh the damage I've done). I still can't figure how it broke in the first place, but there was some significant backfiring which maybe dislodge the union which lead to a quickly deteriorating situation.

More issues: I still don't feel comfortable letting it idle for more than a few moments, but I'd like to know if the fuel pump needs help or not. That and I noticed some vapors coming from the hole in the valve cover where the oil line runs up into the rocker assembly. This has me quite worried so that's item #1 to look into. Some people say it's normal, but I worry my head gasket or even the block could have been damaged.

If by some stroke of luck, the engine & oil seem to be doing okay, I may try revving and working on the fuel mixture ahead of the sniper install. Right now it's running quite rich as I can smell some gasoline out the tailpipe. (which makes sense for a sea level carb running at altitude, right?)

I can't imagine getting out of this without needing nearly a full engine rebuild, but for the next year or so I just need the car to drive 2 miles per day, under 40mph. Should this change the calculus of the fixes at all? I certainly wouldn't want to do anything to further compromise the engine, but maybe good enough can cut it for a short while until I have the means to pull the engine.

Anyway, I'll appreciate any and all advice on my situation! I'm quite sure I'm in over my head now, but I'm going to keep plugging away! The more I learn the more that's wrong, but dang if this isn't fun. What a cool & straightforward design these old beauties had.

Thanks again for all the assistance, both in this thread and throughout the forum.
 
charliemeyer007 said:
Well I'd be be doing at least a dry/wet compression test with all the plugs out just using the starter. Got a bore scope so you can at least look at the wall and perhaps the valves if your compression test are on the weak side. Do you have a direct read oil pressure gauge.

I think that rocker is twisting sideways on the shaft. I had that happen once due to wear (on both the shaft and the rocker bushing) on a used engine I got. I bought a whole new used assembly of ebay cheap. Slow shipper but it got here and was in better shape.
Click to expand...
A compression test sound wise, I've been shy of buying new tools, but maybe these can be rented.

The bend could be a trick of hte camera, in person the rockers are certainly at an angle but nothing looks to be warped.
 
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