Building cargo box for back

[Russ in California]

The unit is strong. Supports my weight with no problem. It is not mounted to the floor yet. I'll wip something up soon. I think that would be best.
It IS the same heighth as the wheel well. I also built a seperate section to go forward when the back seat is down. Then I can sleep there if needed.
Cargo barrier on track.
Russ

 

[Cookiemonster]

Noah, I would definitely go with what "Russ in California" has done.

A few reasons.
1) Your selling your truck.
2) That configuration doesn't require alot of fancy power tools.
3) You can add slides and boxes anytime & still have it removable.
4) You could build it all (assuming you already have the tools) for under $100.00

Good luck.

 

[123c]

How well would MDF work? I can get a 3/4"x4'x6' sheet at work for $1. My only concern would be moister, but I am sure I can put primer on to prevent major problems...

 

[Liam]

Noah, I would definitely go with what "Russ in California" has done.

A few reasons.
1) Your selling your truck.
2) That configuration doesn't require alot of fancy power tools.
3) You can add slides and boxes anytime & still have it removable.
4) You could build it all (assuming you already have the tools) for under $100.00

Good luck.

yeah i agree, something easy and removalbe would be the best and if i decide to keep the truck it would be an added bonus. I have all the tools to build a nice box. I was thinking of even making the frame out of AL that I have laying around and then boxing it in. Thanks for everyones input...
cheers

 

[Mike S]

How well would MDF work? I can get a 3/4"x4'x6' sheet at work for $1. My only concern would be moister, but I am sure I can put primer on to prevent major problems...

MDF is not as strong as plywood, but in 3/4" thickness, and across the short span with a center support, it will Be more than adequate. MDF does not hold fastners as well as plywood or regular lumber, so screw it together and use a strong waterproof glue.

If you mount the box tightly to the floor and wheel hard, you might break a seam open. I would not use MDF for the drawer sides or bottoms - too heavy. Use 1/2" exterior play sides and at least 3/8" for the bottom.

M

 

[surfpig]

Hi, I mocked mine up today, basically like Russ's, but using 2x8 redwood I had laying around for the supports-- I used 3/8inch plywood, too thin I'm thinking, 1/2inch would be better, just lettin' you know... I'm using plastic totes for now, will probably go with drawers later... too many harvy wallbangers, gotta sleep, bye.

nial

 

[Liam]

Hi, I mocked mine up today, basically like Russ's, but using 2x8 redwood I had laying around for the supports-- I used 3/8inch plywood, too thin I'm thinking, 1/2inch would be better, just lettin' you know... I'm using plastic totes for now, will probably go with drawers later... too many harvy wallbangers, gotta sleep, bye.

nial

pics when you wake up?

 

[Cookiemonster]

I would advise steering clear of MDF for a couple of reasons.

1) MDF weighs a ton more than any plywood of the same thickness.

2) When screwing MDF together it is notorious for blowing out, because its grabbing strength is no were near as superior as plywoods.

3) If you were to build it out of MDF and attempt to remove it from the back of the truck chances are it would eventually began to twist and break at the joints because of the above two reasons.

MDF is good stuff for certain applications but I wouldn't recommend it for this one.

Last reason I wouldn't is that MDF if exsposed to moisture will crumple. Plywood will expand and contract. If you decided to paint MDF beware it loves to soak it up, so be prepared to hit it a couple of times to really get it sealed up good.
Good luck and have fun.

 

[Cookiemonster]

MDF is not as strong as plywood, but in 3/4" thickness, and across the short span with a center support, it will Be more than adequate. MDF does not hold fastners as well as plywood or regular lumber, so screw it together and use a strong waterproof glue.

If you mount the box tightly to the floor and wheel hard, you might break a seam open. I would not use MDF for the drawer sides or bottoms - too heavy. Use 1/2" exterior play sides and at least 3/8" for the bottom.

M

Exactly.........Two of the best exterior glues.
Titebond II and Titebond III
The only difference is the the Titebond III you can use at lower temperatures. Stay away from the polyurethanes, because they will expand and make a serious mess. The poly glues are by far the best for exterior exposure but this will be in the back of your truck so the Titebond's will work great.

 

[123c]

I still think I can't beat a buck for the MDF, but I will save it for another project. I am going to keep my eye out for damged CDX plywood at work, I can get it very cheap.

 

[123c]

How about Berber carpeting to cover the box? I just bought a 10x15 scrap of Berber for $1. Carpet stores always have remenents and scraps laying around that they will sell cheap. I just wish Particle Board would hold up, because I can get enough sheets of the differnt sizes for the whole project for about $5, I just need to wait for the warmer month and I will be able to get the same deal on damaged CDX and ACX plywood

 

[Liam]

I am thinking about bedliner material...i know it cost more, a lot more, but I like the way it looks.

 

[123c]

Would Melomine work good for a box? I can get a sheet for less than a dollar. I just picked up half a sheet of 3/4 plywood for a $1...

 

[surfpig]

Holy dormant post, Batman!!

Just figured out how to post pics... took long enough! OK, so here's mine. I would use thicker plywood next time, but 4 months or so of abuse and it's holding up OK. I put hinged panels on the sides so it slides out easily, and when you flip them up, the space fits stuff like grocery bags, or a 5-gal. jerry can of water, or whatnot. I topped it off with some cheapo marine carpeting from Home Despot. Underneath is a plastic box with some spare parts and recovery equipment, my Hi-Lift, tools, a couple of chairs, whatever I can fit. It's really helped with packing for trips and such, since most of this stuff just stays in the truck, out of sight.

 

[polarweasel]

Holy missing pics, surfpig!

Here's mine, that I finally made a couple weeks ago.

3/4" plywood all around. The drawer part is made according to Jim Brantley's plans, but using $10 worth of UHMW strips instead of $150 Accuride slides. The front part is something I cooked up far too quickly, but it served the purpose pretty well.

Out back, there are hinged wings for the side areas. Those are freaking awesome to have.

Up front, the deck is actually two pieces of plywood, hinged in the middle so you can get at stuff from the rear doors.

If I were to do this again, I'd do two drawers in the back and make the front section smaller so it's easier to take out.

 

[123c]

The drawer part is made according to Jim Brantley's plans, but using $10 worth of UHMW strips instead of $150 Accuride slides.

What are the UHMW strips and how did you use them for the drawer slides?

 

[Mace]

Webster! Please don't tell me that you are hauling 10 gallons of gas INSIDE your passenger compartment. That is a BAD thing - fumes, danger in a collision, just bad joss.

M

Mike, you do know that almost all FJ40's had the fuel tank under the passengers seat right??

 

[polarweasel]

What are the UHMW strips and how did you use them for the drawer slides?

I knew somebody would ask...

Instead of ball-bearing drawer slides on the sides of the drawer, these are runners on the bottom. I used two three-foot pieces of 3/8"x3/4" UHMW polyethylene (part #8702K72 at McMaster-Carr, catalog page 3333) as slides fastened to the bottom of the case. There is a dado cut in the bottom of the drawer for each of the two slides. The slide and dado locates the drawer side-to-side, raises it up off the floor of the case a little, and allows it to slide quite easily.

There. Clear as mud?

 

[surfpig]

Holy missing pics, surfpig!

Yeah, well, they got deleted !

Another try...

 

[123c]

I knew somebody would ask...

Instead of ball-bearing drawer slides on the sides of the drawer, these are runners on the bottom. I used two three-foot pieces of 3/8"x3/4" UHMW polyethylene (part #8702K72 at McMaster-Carr, catalog page 3333) as slides fastened to the bottom of the case. There is a dado cut in the bottom of the drawer for each of the two slides. The slide and dado locates the drawer side-to-side, raises it up off the floor of the case a little, and allows it to slide quite easily.

There. Clear as mud?

Now it's clear as mud, now I just need to get me a set of dado blades