Try advancing timing a small amount.You might want to talk to Browns Diesel in Riverdale.Any diesel that is not timed right runs like a dog.
Builds Building a Tow Rig (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter D'Animal
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- #382
I may have the timing off. I set it by the timing mark that I put on it before disassmbly.
I called the diesel shop and asked them how to adjust the timing to fine tune it. They said on this motor to put my finger between the pump and the head and adjust it so it touches on both sides. I have never heard of using my finger as a feeler gauge but I did it and the big white cloud of smoke/vapor went away. Mileage has sucked since.
I called the diesel shop and asked them how to adjust the timing to fine tune it. They said on this motor to put my finger between the pump and the head and adjust it so it touches on both sides. I have never heard of using my finger as a feeler gauge but I did it and the big white cloud of smoke/vapor went away. Mileage has sucked since.
Your timing sounds way off, There is a timing pin above the power steering pump, follow the directions in the manual setting the timing isn't that bad, then advance it, there are alot of stuff you can do to the pump to make it run better without hurting reliability or your mileage.. but you need a good baseline to work from..
BTW did you reshim the bearings in the Getrag before you installed it?? they are great transmisions but the main and countershaft bearings need the proper preload to live and 5w30 synthetic motor oil overfilled one quart..
Love the swap, I have a 92 dodge with a similar drive train that has been real good to me for over 300k... you got rid of the thing I hate about mine, the dodge cab and wiring...
BTW did you reshim the bearings in the Getrag before you installed it?? they are great transmisions but the main and countershaft bearings need the proper preload to live and 5w30 synthetic motor oil overfilled one quart..
Love the swap, I have a 92 dodge with a similar drive train that has been real good to me for over 300k... you got rid of the thing I hate about mine, the dodge cab and wiring...
- Thread starter
- #384
I set the timing back the a "factory" marks that were on the front cover and the pump itself. Advanceing it would be rotating to top of the pump towards the head or away from the head?
On the Getrag, it had 60,00 miles on it. I did not have it reshimmed, but wish I did. I have been running an extra quart of synthetic 90w in it but recently found out about the 5w30 synthetic being the correct lube. I will be changing it out shortly.
The dodge wiring is a nightmare. I stayed with the 1972 GMC wiring for simplicity.
On the Getrag, it had 60,00 miles on it. I did not have it reshimmed, but wish I did. I have been running an extra quart of synthetic 90w in it but recently found out about the 5w30 synthetic being the correct lube. I will be changing it out shortly.
The dodge wiring is a nightmare. I stayed with the 1972 GMC wiring for simplicity.
On a trip (1300 miles) after I advanced my timing to 15.3* I consumed more oil than I had before; close to 3 qts. Because I have a set of rings on cylinder 3 that are wearing out the extra pressure in the cylinder (due to advanced timing) pushed more oil out the crank case breather. I've reduced the timing to 14.4* and am not consuming as much oil. I'm trying to push out a rebuild in a year or two. If you are pushing it out the breather than you might have some rings giving up or/and the timing is too advanced.
To advance the IP will rotate closer to the head, to retard the IP will rotate further away from the head.
You could also have some dirty injectors so running some cleaner through a couple tanks will help too.
Plus we're still probably on winter blend and mileage is usually worse with that, but to go from 19 to 7 I'd say there would be a couple of things going on.
To advance the IP will rotate closer to the head, to retard the IP will rotate further away from the head.
You could also have some dirty injectors so running some cleaner through a couple tanks will help too.
Plus we're still probably on winter blend and mileage is usually worse with that, but to go from 19 to 7 I'd say there would be a couple of things going on.
- Thread starter
- #386
Is there a degree mark on the rig somewhere that I could check to see where I am at?
The best way to time is to use a dial to measure like this tool on ebay. It measures the travel on the plunger.
I found another good overall description of the VE pumps here that talks a little about timing using the manual. The manual can be downloaded off of 4btswaps somewhere (4bt and 6bt in the same manual); however, a quick look didn't turn up a 1.25mm travel = 13.5* (just an example, not actual) chart. The stock setting should be on the ID tag on your engine. More than your tag number will be advanced and less will be retarded.
I found another good overall description of the VE pumps here that talks a little about timing using the manual. The manual can be downloaded off of 4btswaps somewhere (4bt and 6bt in the same manual); however, a quick look didn't turn up a 1.25mm travel = 13.5* (just an example, not actual) chart. The stock setting should be on the ID tag on your engine. More than your tag number will be advanced and less will be retarded.
- Thread starter
- #388
So I have put around 15k miles in my rig with a Land Cruiser of some sort behind it.
I notice the Class 5 "V" hitch was bent. When I got back from wheeling my rig in Calico and then made a dash to Eureka, I noticed it was bowed.
New Class 5 "V" hitch is being installed. If you tug a Cruiser a lot, check your reciever assy.
I notice the Class 5 "V" hitch was bent. When I got back from wheeling my rig in Calico and then made a dash to Eureka, I noticed it was bowed.
New Class 5 "V" hitch is being installed. If you tug a Cruiser a lot, check your reciever assy.
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- #389
New one.
I lsot 3" of ground clearance but that is better than loosing a cruiser on a trailer.
I lsot 3" of ground clearance but that is better than loosing a cruiser on a trailer.
Did you get the fuel mileage issue solved?
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- #391
Not yet.
I drained my batteries while winching some FJ40's and now the dual red optimas will not longer start the rig. I just installed new Yellow tops with the gray body and hoping for the best. They are on the chager now.
Hoping to get to the pump timing this sat.
I drained my batteries while winching some FJ40's and now the dual red optimas will not longer start the rig. I just installed new Yellow tops with the gray body and hoping for the best. They are on the chager now.
Hoping to get to the pump timing this sat.
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Dan,
I have seen your tow rig in other posts.
I just now sat down for the last hour and read the 14,000,000 posts on this build. You have done an awesome job in a short amount of time for what you have had to do.
I have concluded 2 things from this
1) You must never sleep....you must work 24/7.....
2) You do some awesome work..and fast at that.
to an awesome build.
Hope you have your fuel issues figured out soon.
I have a 1991 Dodge W350. Stock Cummins. I love it.
I do not know enough about the 5.9's yet to tell you anything.
Sorry 'bout that.
I just bought it back in Aug. 2008 Still on the tearning curve too.
I have seen your tow rig in other posts.
I just now sat down for the last hour and read the 14,000,000 posts on this build. You have done an awesome job in a short amount of time for what you have had to do.
I have concluded 2 things from this
1) You must never sleep....you must work 24/7.....
2) You do some awesome work..and fast at that.
to an awesome build.Hope you have your fuel issues figured out soon.
I have a 1991 Dodge W350. Stock Cummins. I love it.
I do not know enough about the 5.9's yet to tell you anything.
Sorry 'bout that.
I just bought it back in Aug. 2008 Still on the tearning curve too.
- Thread starter
- #393
Thanks for the kind words.
Since you read this build thread, I have several others as well, you will notice I post my mistakes as well as "Lessons Learned" situations.
Hopefully if someone else does something like this, they will read about my opportunites of improvement and do things right the first time.
I'm fabbing brackets for the Roof Top Tent and mounting the tent now. This in preperation for Cruise Moab.
Since you read this build thread, I have several others as well, you will notice I post my mistakes as well as "Lessons Learned" situations.
Hopefully if someone else does something like this, they will read about my opportunites of improvement and do things right the first time.
I'm fabbing brackets for the Roof Top Tent and mounting the tent now. This in preperation for Cruise Moab.
I just noticed the weight rating on the first hitch, 5000lbs with 500lbs tongue weight , uummm I always wondered what happend if you over did one of those... I've never seen one bend,
I wonder what your cruiser and trailer weight???
Looking at the new one it looks like its rated for 10k on the trailer...
I wonder what your cruiser and trailer weight???
Looking at the new one it looks like its rated for 10k on the trailer...
- Thread starter
- #395
They are both Class 5 "V".
The new one is suppose to be rated to 14,000lb towing and 1,500lbs tongue weight.
They tried to talk me into a solid reciever. I passed for now.
The new one is suppose to be rated to 14,000lb towing and 1,500lbs tongue weight.
They tried to talk me into a solid reciever. I passed for now.
I am still amazed you bent the first one with your trailer and just a cruiser on it... is the 14k with a weight distributing hitch??? or just straight...
You only need a solid if you are over 6k if I remember correctly...and some solids are good up to 15k but you can only bumper tow 10k legally in Kalifornia..
I have a 12k on my Dodge and the one on the GMC with the hauler bed I built, If you want I can take some pix of what I did.. you may want to do something similar if the ground clearance is an issue.
BTW I run a solid ball mount but my trailer and bobcat weight about 10k.
You only need a solid if you are over 6k if I remember correctly...and some solids are good up to 15k but you can only bumper tow 10k legally in Kalifornia..
I have a 12k on my Dodge and the one on the GMC with the hauler bed I built, If you want I can take some pix of what I did.. you may want to do something similar if the ground clearance is an issue.
BTW I run a solid ball mount but my trailer and bobcat weight about 10k.
- Thread starter
- #397
I'm going to roll the tow rig and the FJ40.5 on the trailer across some scales in the next day or to to find out how much this setup weighs.
I'm guessing the entire assy is around 12,000lbs.
I'm guessing the entire assy is around 12,000lbs.
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- #398
The dual optima Yellow tops are installed in the Ruff Stuff dual side by side battery tray.
This thing fires right up.
This thing fires right up.
- Thread starter
- #399
RTT is mounted using the Yakama Top clamps and cross bars.
There is still enough room for my camping box. There is nothing under the RTT so the bed is basically empty.
There is still enough room for my camping box. There is nothing under the RTT so the bed is basically empty.
g'day everyone, im only new to this site but asolutley love it, im im australia and not long ago scored to 6bt 5.9 cummins engines for free, they were in bits so i had to reassemble, so i did them up ive just started on my conversion of a 6bt to a landcruiser 45, only problem is there isnt alot of info in aust on doing this so its involving me making my own bits and pieces to fit, no one can seem to tell me what flywheel housing is on my engines however if any one can identify it would be great as at the moment im after a 2wd transmission to suit it
thanks chris
thanks chris
