Build Thread for FJ80 Trailer. (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter racevws
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Great progress!
That's going to be tall when you get the new axle and matching wheels/tires as the tow rig. And interesting idea stacking frames. Are you thinking of using that area between frames for storage?
That's going to be tall when you get the new axle and matching wheels/tires as the tow rig. And interesting idea stacking frames. Are you thinking of using that area between frames for storage?
I think your asking a lot of that little Trailer. I don't think the frame looks up to the task. JMHO
- Thread starter
- #44
I probably will end up reinforcing the frame. Of course, I need to think it through a bit.
mingles
GOLD Star
As I stated earlier, I applaud your ingenuity and out of the box thinking. I also agree with @brosky that, as is, that trailer frame was never designed to take even 1/2 the weight of an 80. That being said, take things one step at a time (as you are) and you will end up fine with a VERY unique 80 trailer.
Nice job so far
.
The way It sets 850LB.
900 lbs as it sits
- Thread starter
- #51
Ok, I think I may go back to the factory axle, and not worry so much about trailer brakes right now. I can always go electric over hydro later. What do you mean by "plate the rear bearings"?
Where the axle flange normally bolts to the outside of the hub, you can make a plate that bolts over that and seals the end of the hub. This will keep debris from getting into the bearing from outside and will keep the grease from leaking out. You could even use the cut off flange portion of a broken axle to install there. Fill the spindle with silicone caulk to seal it from the back side or (see below)
That said, I would also install an oil-resistant rubber plug into the end of the spindle (inside the flange just mentioned) in order to keep the grease from running into the housing and out of the hub. Also, if the rear differential is pulled and cover the opening with a blank plate (weight reduction) the diff housing will go through a condensation phase 2x/day and this will keep the moisture out of the bearings.
The parking brake on the existing housing can be kept intact and place the handle on the hitch so it can be activated when parked so the trailer doesn't roll.
The existing hydraulic calipers can be utilized with a master cylinder that is hitch-actuated and activates the brakes in a deceleration condition. Many trailers use this configuration and there are places it is less than desirable, IDK how to feel about this one. Maybe with a deactivation pin that disables the master cylinder compression during rough off-road towing.
Lots of possibilities there.
Some added benefits:
Trailer uses the same wheels and tires as the tow vehicle for emergency.
The trailer can carry a spare.
The trailer already has a spare gas tank built in to use as extra storage (25 gal). Install an electric transfer switch (you already have power why not a switch to the fuel pump relay?)
Spare light bulbs
Place to attach a roof top tent
Uses the same suspension pieces in event of an emergency. You could even leave the differential in it to be a "spare" but it might get some serious rock rash.
Install LCP's side window access ports and you have easy side access.
Leave power hooked up to it and you can power the windows up or down as needed.
Dissent
Questioning my life choices...
- Thread starter
- #54
This form is absolutely amazing. Those are all awesome ideas. I'm going to see how much I can get done on it and post some more updates
Yes, I've put a LOT of thought into this. I just have not had the space or time to build it.
Instead of the hood on the front, I would have grafted on another back half of a cab so I would then have a front and rear hatch access. I could make it so I could lay a 15 ft 2x4 front to back through there.
Sorry to throw a huge wrench into your plans........
Dissent
Questioning my life choices...
So you're saying I need 2X EXTRA 80s....
If it's a full float rear, could one just use the drive flange from the front axle to seal of the hub ? They look to be the same size / bolt pattern
I think so, but I'm not positive because I've never tried the fit.
For the trailer brakes talked about above, you'll need to see what applies best. Disc brakes, reverse lock-out, trailer weight, ball size.
The master cylinder is called a Surge Brake Master Cylinder with reverse lock-out.
eTrailer Surge Brakes MC
- Thread starter
- #60
Well, it's been a bit since I updated this. Didn't realize it had been so long. And since I actually slept in it hunting this weekend, I suppose that an update is in order. So since my last update, I got rid of the lame trailer frame and put all the axle and stuff back on. I also towed it about 300 miles at 70 plus MPH behind my Tundra (I needed a pickup so I can throw some dead elk in the bed.) Anyway. I got it painted up with rustoleum as well. The hitch and stuff is much better as well.
Here is some paint prep.
Here is some paint prep.
