Builds Build: Rusty Pumpkin Project 74' FJ40

[bdawg23]

There's usually more to it than just replacing the bearings. Search knuckle rebuild. There is shimming for bearing pre loads, and centering the knuckles. Do you have a factory service manual(FSM)?

@pb4ugo there certainly is and I understand I can take my level of mechanical involvement deeper on every aspect of this truck. I have a digital FSM and a Haynes manual.

I did not chase down the process of centering the knuckles. Are their visual signs or clues that indicate when this process should be completed from your experience?

 

[bdawg23]

Looking good, remember to pack the burf's full of grease as well before you install them. OTRAMM recommended one tub of grease per side. it gets you to about 3/4 full.

I got my gray moly grease from the local autoparts store.

Remember if you have you hubs unlocked, there is actually nothing turning in there, other than you wheel bearings, which use a different type of grease.

Cheers

@South Texas 97 thanks! Good feedback! Thank you!

 

[pb4ugo]

Centering the knuckle aligns the inner axle to the inner axle seal. The inner end of the inner axle is supported by the the diffs side gears and bearings. The spindle and the brass bushing supports the birf and centers the outer end of the axle which is adjusted by aligning the knuckle/spindle. The goal is to have the axle centered in the seal. If the inner seal is leaking gear lube could be an indication the knuckle could be misaligned. Instead of using the stock inner axle seal you can purchase a pr of Marlin double lipped inner axle seals which are more robust and can handle a little misalignment. The upper and lower trunnion bearings require a preload per the FSM which is adjusted by removing or adding shims at the top and bottom bearing caps per the FSM, while keeping the knuckle centered. You are dealing with a 50yr old frt end and there's no telling what folks have done to it in the past, or if it has ever been serviced. You can find videos and search here for how to's. I seem to recall that
Georg did a video with Ben on a Wrong way video.

 

[bdawg23]

This appears to be a FJ40LV~C. Doubt it's a FJ40LV~AC. Believe the A in this model appears to be North America model, most likely because of safety (padded dash) and emissions.

The C is for ambulance doors. Which I've never seen the 2/72-1/75 models with ambulance doors on a north America markets Amayama has a listed for them. Canada models had the door card in 74 they also had a heater standard. I would be curious if the roll bar has the bracket in the underside of the wheel wells. Shows this model as possible to have a roll bar but most imports do not have a stock roll bar.

@Living in the Past thanks for checking out my truck and helping me learn more about it.

Here is a picture of the passenger side rear fender well, I'm not seeing any support brackets here.

This is the heater that is installed. I don't think it's OEM but I haven't really looked into this yet. Not sure if this image helps?

 

[bdawg23]

Centering the knuckle aligns the inner axle to the inner axle seal. The inner end of the inner axle is supported by the the diffs side gears and bearings. The spindle and the brass bushing supports the birf and centers the outer end of the axle which is adjusted by aligning the knuckle/spindle. The goal is to have the axle centered in the seal. If the inner seal is leaking gear lube could be an indication the knuckle could be misaligned. Instead of using the stock inner axle seal you can purchase a pr of Marlin double lipped inner axle seals which are more robust and can handle a little misalignment. The upper and lower trunnion bearings require a preload per the FSM which is adjusted by removing or adding shims at the top and bottom bearing caps per the FSM, while keeping the knuckle centered. You are dealing with a 50yr old frt end and there's no telling what folks have done to it in the past, or if it has ever been serviced. You can find videos and search here for how to's. I seem to recall that
Georg did a video with Ben on a Wrong way video.

Thanks for the context. No signs of inner axle seal leaking which doesn't necessarily mean the axle doesn't need aligned but at least things appear to be in descent working order. I've read some posts and watched a few videos on the shims. I re-assembled with the same shim stacks that were there. Always something to learn and always an opportunity to do things better the second time around.

 

[Living in the Past]

@Living in the Past thanks for checking out my truck and helping me learn more about it.

Here is a picture of the passenger side rear fender well, I'm not seeing any support brackets here.
View attachment 3625243

This is the heater that is installed. I don't think it's OEM but I haven't really looked into this yet. Not sure if this image helps?

View attachment 3625244

The roll was added later. Same with the heater. Some time in 1964 Toyota started adding a factory installed heater. While the heater changed some over the years it was always in the center above the transmission hump with a duct running to the passenger side and a blower unit in the engine bay. Wasn't until 1/75 actually started putting complete model information on the plaque under the hood. Prior to that time were lucky if the V for van(hard top) was stamp into the plaque. Would be curious if your shows the C after FJ40LV?

 

[bdawg23]

The roll was added later. Same with the heater. Some time in 1964 Toyota started adding a factory installed heater. While the heater changed some over the years it was always in the center above the transmission hump with a duct running to the passenger side and a blower unit in the engine bay. Wasn't until 1/75 actually started putting complete model information on the plaque under the hood. Prior to that time were lucky if the V for van(hard top) was stamp into the plaque. Would be curious if your shows the C after FJ40LV?

Awesome info thank you!

Where should I look for the “C” is that part of the vin stamped on the frame?

 

[bdawg23]

Made some headway over the weekend so here is a progress report:

- both knuckles rebuilt with rebuild kits from cruiser teq.
- since this has the Monte Carlo brake adapter kit (TJO) I needed to source new calipers as the ones on there were not moving.
- turns out 1994 Monte Carlo calipers fit at least they did at the store.
- the calibers required some grinding to allow the brake line to enter from a different angle and there was a casting nub that needed flattened out.
- bleed the brakes, I have pedal feel again!
- mechanical fuel pump rebuilt and fixed line run from output to just pass the valve cover where it connects to 5/16 rubber gas line to the carb
- battery tray removed, frozen bolts grinder down, new holes drilled for a universal battery tray install
- new battery
- installed new Speedo cable installed
- ruined the ammeter trying to loosen one of the bolts that connects the wire to the back, taped up both wires and put dash back together (a mistake here I’ll catch later)
- installed inline fuel filter before the pump
- installed new battery and hooked it up but nothing happened. Turn the key and it’s dead.
- turns out I need to CONNECT the ammeter wires to complete the circuit oops! Didn’t think that through when I removed the inop ammeter.

 

[Living in the Past]

Awesome info thank you!

Where should I look for the “C” is that part of the vin stamped on the frame?

Your VIN is stamped on the frame not the model number. Under the hood you should a silver tag. Either on a fender or firewall. That's is on the only place the model number would be. The C at the end at the model means the ambulance doors were factory installed. Toyota was never very good about putting a complete model number prior to 1/75.

 

[bdawg23]

Your VIN is stamped on the frame not the model number. Under the hood you should a silver tag. Either on a fender or firewall. That's is on the only place the model number would be. The C at the end at the model means the ambulance doors were factory installed. Toyota was never very good about putting a complete model number prior to 1/75.

FJ40L is what I see stamped on the plate.

 

[Living in the Past]

FJ40L is what I see stamped on the plate.

View attachment 3626053

Very common that it wouldn't even have the V for hard top. The L for left hand drive is all most early FJ40s in the US had .

 

[bdawg23]

Very common that it wouldn't even have the V for hard top. The L for left hand drive is all most early FJ40s in the US had .

One thing I can't explain is this bit of blue on the hardtop. It's the only blue I've seen on the whole truck. Maybe this was a stoft top and someone bought a hardtop for it?

 

[pb4ugo]

Made some headway over the weekend so here is a progress report:

- both knuckles rebuilt with rebuild kits from cruiser teq.
- since this has the Monte Carlo brake adapter kit (TJO) I needed to source new calipers as the ones on there were not moving.
- turns out 1994 Monte Carlo calipers fit at least they did at the store.
- the calibers required some grinding to allow the brake line to enter from a different angle and there was a casting nub that needed flattened out.
- bleed the brakes, I have pedal feel again!
- mechanical fuel pump rebuilt and fixed line run from output to just pass the valve cover where it connects to 5/16 rubber gas line to the carb
- battery tray removed, frozen bolts grinder down, new holes drilled for a universal battery tray install
- new battery
- installed new Speedo cable installed
- ruined the ammeter trying to loosen one of the bolts that connects the wire to the back, taped up both wires and put dash back together (a mistake here I’ll catch later)
- installed inline fuel filter before the pump
- installed new battery and hooked it up but nothing happened. Turn the key and it’s dead.
- turns out I need to CONNECT the ammeter wires to complete the circuit oops! Didn’t think that through when I removed the inop ammeter.


View attachment 3626050View attachment 3626051View attachment 3626052

Looks like you're making great progress. The nub and brake line connections are relatively common alterations. I ended up notching the mounting brackets for the calipers nub, so replacement calipers would bolt on without grinding on them. I would also recommend disconnecting the batt anytime you're removing the gauge cluster. If the ammeter connections ground out you have a possibility of a major wiring catastrophe.

 

[bdawg23]

Looks like you're making great progress. The nub and brake line connections are relatively common alterations. I ended up notching the mounting brackets for the calipers nub, so replacement calipers would bolt on without grinding on them. I would also recommend disconnecting the batt anytime you're removing the gauge cluster. If the ammeter connections ground out you have a possibility of a major wiring catastrophe.

Thanks!

I had the battery out when I started the work so I got lucky there but going forward I'll remember to disconnect it.

Good to know about the alternations. I looked at the calibers that came off but they were so rusty it was hard to tell what had been altered.

I was also starting to fear that the angle grinder was becoming way too useful of a tool on this project I put a wire wheel on it and used it to clean a lot of the hub assembly. The caked on mud/grease was my biggest challenge to progress half the time so prepping all the surfaces so they were clean was time consuming. I did find the wire brush for welding to be stiff enough to remove gunk.

 

[Living in the Past]

One thing I can't explain is this bit of blue on the hardtop. It's the only blue I've seen on the whole truck. Maybe this was a stoft top and someone bought a hardtop for it?

View attachment 3626071

If you have the correct striker on the rear sill for ambulance doors it was always a hard top. Close up of the would help. Do not read the missing V as it wasn't a hard top. Different types of soft tops and should have a letter for the type of soft top. My 73 FST does not have any letter. Just the L was common on all left hand models.

 

[bdawg23]

If you have the correct striker on the rear sill for ambulance doors it was always a hard top. Close up of the would help. Do not read the missing V as it wasn't a hard top. Different types of soft tops and should have a letter for the type of soft top. My 73 FST does not have any letter. Just the L was common on all left hand models.

Is this what you are looking for on the rear door sill?

 

[Living in the Past]

Is this what you are looking for on the rear door sill?

View attachment 3626266

View attachment 3626267

The catch for the ambulance doors on the top and floor of the tub. It's hidden with the left door shut. You show it in this picture you posted.

Your tub is notched to have ambulance doors fit flush. US only got barn doors on hard top and tailgates on soft tops thru the 74 models. Those both those styles fit against tub not flush with it.

 

[bdawg23]

Got the truck fired up yesterday!

- since I took out the non-working ammeter I popped behind the instrument cluster and put these two wires together to complete the circuit.
- truck still wouldn't crank but I had lights now...read some posts about non-cranking issues, found the wire from the starter that goes to instrument cluster and discovered I never reattached a 4 pin connector (oops!)
- as soon as I reconnected this it now cranked!

However there was no fuel visible in the fuel filter after cranking a few times and I didn't want to keep cranking to see what would happen for fear of draining the batter or ruining the starter. I read some where on the formum about priming the pump after work on the fuel system using a shop-vac to pressurize the tank to force fuel through the lines. This is exactly what I did and after a short crank it fired right up and idled.

I hoped out and started looking for fuel leaks and other items just as double check and all seemed well so I went for a drive around the block and then eventually went down and got some gas.

After returning home I checked again and now I had some visible leaking around the npt connection I used to create my new gas line. So today I went in search of thread sealant that could hold up to gasoline and found this stuff: Gasoila

took apart the connection and reassembled with thread sealant.

and now just letting it set for a bit before maybe taking it for a spin later tonight!

 

[bdawg23]

I think a slow leak turned into something more on my last drive. Drove the truck to a work party at the trials club property about 40 miles away. Came home and parked it and saw some drips.

Then after about 50-20 mins it turned into this

I also had some a damp/wet area on the drivers side block that seems to be coming from what looks like the head gasket?

Otherwise truck ran good. Mechanical fuel pump seems to be working fine with the Webber carb. Here is the truck at the trials club property

 

[bdawg23]

I think the oil leak was related to the valve cover not sealing properly. I took off the valve cover, cleaned the cork gasket up along with the valve cover, ran a bead of gasket sealant and reassembled. After the truck sat for a bit I could run my finger around the valve cover gasket and it was wet with oil. Hopefully this will resolve this particular oil leak.

Since this truck had been de-smogged by cutting the hoses and plugging them with random hardware I wanted to go back and clean this up.

the manifold plug was easy to remove and I replaced it with this brass fitting

This fitting however became an issue. When I took out the fitting that was in there half of the threads around it turned to cookie crumbs. I ended up with about 3 threads nearest the valve cover and basically no threads on the exhaust side.

I outlined where all the material came off. Once running coolant came out of the broken side (I was expecting it to leak) but I had the truck in the driveway when working on it (just nice to workout side sometimes).

I would like some thoughts and suggestions on what to do here to fix this but I have a few things to share first.
- can this be permanently sealed off?

With the plug out it was clear how much crap was in the cooling system and with coolant already making it way out of the engine I figured might as well pull some coolant lines and pull the radiator to see what was going inside. This is what the inlet looks like.

Radiator

I'd love some feedback on what to do next on two topics:

Brass cap fix - any thoughts on what do here? Is this something I could weld closed (not me per say but someone with experience welding) and move on or is there more to this? Other fixes/ideas?

Cooling system - would you attempt to flush this out or would the better recommendation be to continue the tear down and replace the water pump/inlets and radiator?