Ugly Dwarf
SILVER Star
I've been reading a bunch of posts lately about what other people have done for homebrew roof racks. I'd love to put a classic Con-Ferr style rack from DiamondRax up top, but I just don't have that kind of money sitting idle.
I've read about J Rack / Moose Rack (ATV Ramp style), bending / welding steel tube (round / square), using conduit (though it sounds like welding galvanized puts off hazardous fumes?) and so many other ideas my head is still spinning. For mounting, it looks like most folks use Yakima racks (which I own and have used in a pinch, but don't like), some variation of the old Con-Ferr style mounts (which seem to range from $30-$70 each and I would probably want six), and some others have fab'd their own.
I've been considering going with an aluminum ATV Ramp style rack like THIS 77' x 54" ramp. While it sounds like most people cut / grind them off, I was thinking I'd use the angled pieces on the front (the part you rest on your tailgate to drive an ATV into the bed) to mount a piece of plexiglass as a faring to reduce wind noise. My plan is to combine this with a Werner Steel Ladder / Van Rack LINK . The way I see it, this would give me a flat 3/4 size "Moose" style roof rack with a 600 pound capacity for under $300 delivered.
It's not really "low profile" as the ladder rack sides stand about 11" above the roof. The cross bar sits ~5" above the roof (the bottom of the rack is ~3" above the roofline). The high sides on the ladder rack will certainly have a benefit when hauling a canoe or kayaks.
On the plus side, this setup (in my mind) should be significantly stronger than most of the "Moose Racks", since the ramps would be supported all the way across, vs. just on the outside edges, with grade 8 hardware holding the middle.
The downside I've always seen with the "Moose Rack" style is no rail higher up to help secure things up top. I understand that stuff should be lashed to the rack and that if it's moving around, I've got bigger problems than if the rail will hold it through my first turn / stop. However, I'm wondering how many people with "flat racks" wish they had rails?
Has anyone else gone down this road before with a ladder rack and ATV ramps? Anyone looking at this set up and thinking "Don't do it, it will fail because of ...."? Any suggestions before I pull the trigger and pay shipping on the ramps?
Thanks for your input.
Dwarf
PS. I should note that I came across Mainlanders build LINK and was impressed. I am considering going that direction, but I expect the materials will still put me back $150-$200, it will take a LOT more time to build (granted, I will enjoy the work, but "spare time" is a rare commodity in my life these days), it will probably be a fair bit heavier (the rack above should weigh in under 80 pounds total), and will take up a lot more space when I take it off the truck (the ladder racks break down quickly and easily, and the ramps fold into thirds).
I've read about J Rack / Moose Rack (ATV Ramp style), bending / welding steel tube (round / square), using conduit (though it sounds like welding galvanized puts off hazardous fumes?) and so many other ideas my head is still spinning. For mounting, it looks like most folks use Yakima racks (which I own and have used in a pinch, but don't like), some variation of the old Con-Ferr style mounts (which seem to range from $30-$70 each and I would probably want six), and some others have fab'd their own.
I've been considering going with an aluminum ATV Ramp style rack like THIS 77' x 54" ramp. While it sounds like most people cut / grind them off, I was thinking I'd use the angled pieces on the front (the part you rest on your tailgate to drive an ATV into the bed) to mount a piece of plexiglass as a faring to reduce wind noise. My plan is to combine this with a Werner Steel Ladder / Van Rack LINK . The way I see it, this would give me a flat 3/4 size "Moose" style roof rack with a 600 pound capacity for under $300 delivered.
It's not really "low profile" as the ladder rack sides stand about 11" above the roof. The cross bar sits ~5" above the roof (the bottom of the rack is ~3" above the roofline). The high sides on the ladder rack will certainly have a benefit when hauling a canoe or kayaks.
On the plus side, this setup (in my mind) should be significantly stronger than most of the "Moose Racks", since the ramps would be supported all the way across, vs. just on the outside edges, with grade 8 hardware holding the middle.
The downside I've always seen with the "Moose Rack" style is no rail higher up to help secure things up top. I understand that stuff should be lashed to the rack and that if it's moving around, I've got bigger problems than if the rail will hold it through my first turn / stop. However, I'm wondering how many people with "flat racks" wish they had rails?
Has anyone else gone down this road before with a ladder rack and ATV ramps? Anyone looking at this set up and thinking "Don't do it, it will fail because of ...."? Any suggestions before I pull the trigger and pay shipping on the ramps?
Thanks for your input.
Dwarf
PS. I should note that I came across Mainlanders build LINK and was impressed. I am considering going that direction, but I expect the materials will still put me back $150-$200, it will take a LOT more time to build (granted, I will enjoy the work, but "spare time" is a rare commodity in my life these days), it will probably be a fair bit heavier (the rack above should weigh in under 80 pounds total), and will take up a lot more space when I take it off the truck (the ladder racks break down quickly and easily, and the ramps fold into thirds).
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It's not exactly what I wanted, but it's a really good starting point at a good price, and I expect I can make it 'just right' in very short order.
So it looks like I'll be selling a moose rack myself once it's been delivered.
yeah found my next purchase to save for.
