Thanks for the write up. Helped me map out my install today. These things are solid. Totally recommend them to anyone contemplating it.
BudBuilt Skid Install
- Thread starter afgman786
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Installed majority of Budbuilt slider plates. Fuel tank protection coming in a few weeks.
Took longer than expected but by myself. Ramps and floor jack huge help. Rob at BB super responsive to questions.
Couple things to note. Make sure you dont crank down on transfer counter/vibration weights...forget actual name. They are cast aluminum and only need about 6 to 9 foot lbs of tourque. If you go more they will break and are expensive to replace. Thanks Rob for heads up. I have included a pic of them.
Second install bolts loose before you tighten up everything and when you install the BB crossbar make the required cut on the heat shield, and install before installing armor. Obviously i progressed and found out the hard way that's a no no.
These things are no joke so floor jack is a must to help maneuver into place and help with supporting weight while you install hardware. One man can do it but 2 is better plus need a beer gofer.
Took longer than expected but by myself. Ramps and floor jack huge help. Rob at BB super responsive to questions.
Couple things to note. Make sure you dont crank down on transfer counter/vibration weights...forget actual name. They are cast aluminum and only need about 6 to 9 foot lbs of tourque. If you go more they will break and are expensive to replace. Thanks Rob for heads up. I have included a pic of them.
Second install bolts loose before you tighten up everything and when you install the BB crossbar make the required cut on the heat shield, and install before installing armor. Obviously i progressed and found out the hard way that's a no no.
These things are no joke so floor jack is a must to help maneuver into place and help with supporting weight while you install hardware. One man can do it but 2 is better plus need a beer gofer.
Not sure if they did but I'm in a 2018 LC and in order to attach the BB cross bar i had to cut that chunk from the heat shield. Just to clarify, its the heat shield on drivers side frame rail i am referring to.
Julian73
SILVER Star
Do the counterweights need to be removed to position criss bar into place?
No but you do have to remove them to get that contraption off the trans case, then reinstall in the original bolt holes on t case. Finger tight then just a little torque. You will notice how little torque there is on the bolts when you remove them.
afgman786
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #28
Yea, I'm referring to that as well. I took it off, but didn't put it back until after all my skids were installed since I had to find a friend with an angle grinder to cut the section. I took your post about it, as if you had trouble putting it back after installing the skids. I was curious if there is something that blocks that area now to make it a bit tougher if you put it on after the transfer skid plate..
Oh ok...misunderstood. Nothing there to prevent install after. I just found it easier to install it prior to the armor. My big mitts cant fit in some of those places. Lol
better picture of the transfer case skid and bracing on this thread than on the BB website. This skid is one of the key reasons IMO to go with the budbuilt system; most manufacturers are ignoring the transfer case or have a solution which actually might be worse than factory.
It's a shame BB doesn't market the transfer skid as a separate piece like the fuel skid.
It's a shame BB doesn't market the transfer skid as a separate piece like the fuel skid.
Maybe!Should've just gone with a full BB system so you could've had that protection.
I just installed my Bud Built fuel tank skid recently by my self with a small floor jack supporting the load and just rolled it or slid it left or right and every thing lined up perfectly. I used the token OEM skid plate as a visual for the brackets. Installed all of the hardware loose then secured when all squared up. Very well made and designed skids. I hope my cruiser never falls on them but I sure fell better knowing those structural skids are there.
Ah why not. While I had the left front tire off the ground for working clearance I pulled the transmission skid plate and greased the front drive shaft.
TIP: Make sure you clean each skid plate contact surface before putting the plates back together. I thought I had removed all of the gravel and bits but not good enough.
Ah why not. While I had the left front tire off the ground for working clearance I pulled the transmission skid plate and greased the front drive shaft.
TIP: Make sure you clean each skid plate contact surface before putting the plates back together. I thought I had removed all of the gravel and bits but not good enough.
Quick question for those that put these skids on...Do you need to support the tranny/transfer case with a floor jack when you remove those two long bolts and replace with the BB provided bolts to put up the cross member? Chomping at the bit for instructions but this thread has been incredibly useful. Thank you to OP and appreciate responses.
RET2
SILVER Star
@Taco2Cruiser would be one of if not the best person to answer your question.
I didn’t support anything. Did one bolt at a time and nothing shifted. Surprisingly easy. I installed the set of skids by myself in my driveway. I drove each front wheel onto a bag of mulch to lift it a little off the ground. It was just enough clearance to place the skids on my chest and lift them into position to get the bolts secured. My floor jack and jack stands were in my warehouse and I didn’t feel like going to get them. Definitely one of my more creative install techniques.
I supported cross member under the bolt end with a jack and removed/replaced one bolt at a time. There was slight shifting with out the jack.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Replace one at a time.
So you’ll probably still need a floor jack, but that is to get one of the bolts out.
How I do it (and the instructions will say) is you will loosen both passenger side factory transmission crossmember bolts and set the factory nuts aside.
Then side out one of the factory long bolts. One will easily slide out by hand, that is the one to remove first.
Find the hardware bag labeled "crossmember." Take long replacement bolt and put one washer on it. Fit the new long bolt into the factory crossmember.
Now a flood jack will most likely be needed to give very slight upward pressure to let the other factory bolt slide out by hand. Once factory bolt is out, replace with supplied longer bolt with one washer. Remove and jack under the factory crossmember.
Now that the supplied longer bolts are fitted, double stack two washer on each bolt. All six supplied washer are now fitted.
Temporarily remove head shield on driver side frame rail.
Hang the BudBuilt crossmember on the longer bolts and thread on the factory nuts (no washer is used, just like factory). Keep it loose so only three revolutions of threads are needed to be safe.
Loosely fit the faster to the driver side frame rail. Fit and trim the factory heat shield. There is already a hole in the bottom of the heat shield, you will only need to remove a small amount below it. Best is to fit, trim, and repeat, until you are happy.
Then with the heat shield in, and the BB crossmember loose, but all fasteners in. Tighten the passenger side first, then the driver side.
Passenger side is torqued to 72 lbf ft. Driver side is to 21 lbf ft.
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A couple of adds from my experience just completing full skids install today.
put the gas tank skid heat shield on the outside of the skid with slanted side facing the rear. Those square headed bolts will rip right thru the heat shield thin metsl with light torque but not the metal 3/8” plate side (learned the hard way). Also, unlike me, install the gas tank skid after all the other skids.My t-case skid is right against the front bolt on the gas tank skid and that bolt ain’t moving. One final point, on the engine skid, you can only access one of the two half moon holes once you put on the front most skid making it very hard to tighten once all skids are in. You can remove the oil change cover to get the other one. So, may want to tighten that one before installing the front most skid.
As others have said, not a tough one man job with a floor jack and mulch bag ramps (genius).
these skids are amazing. Well done Bud Built.
put the gas tank skid heat shield on the outside of the skid with slanted side facing the rear. Those square headed bolts will rip right thru the heat shield thin metsl with light torque but not the metal 3/8” plate side (learned the hard way). Also, unlike me, install the gas tank skid after all the other skids.My t-case skid is right against the front bolt on the gas tank skid and that bolt ain’t moving. One final point, on the engine skid, you can only access one of the two half moon holes once you put on the front most skid making it very hard to tighten once all skids are in. You can remove the oil change cover to get the other one. So, may want to tighten that one before installing the front most skid.
As others have said, not a tough one man job with a floor jack and mulch bag ramps (genius).
these skids are amazing. Well done Bud Built.
