My order arrived in a couple shipments over the weekend. I'm excited to no longer fear for my gas tank.
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Those things don't do anything, you need to open the valves and jack the truck on the side that is lower and then reclose the valves. Might take a couple tries of jacking each side up and reclosing the valves. Few youtube videos on this. Those spacers are just a bandaid not a solution.Well after 4 months and 18 days, my front skid has finally arrived! Will try installing it tonight, not sure if it will clear the front KDSS spacer I recently added, so may have to take that off, since it hasn't really done much to my slight lean to the passenger side.
I've tried all the tricks, including driving around neighbourhood with valves open, but still end up with a slight lean. Adding the spacers to the rear only helped a bit, plus gives me a little more room to fit a bigger spare tire.Those things don't do anything, you need to open the valves and jack the truck on the side that is lower and then reclose the valves. Might take a couple tries of jacking each side up and reclosing the valves. Few youtube videos on this. Those spacers are just a bandaid not a solution.
All done. As others have noted, this skid is solid and well made. The included hardware lined up to the factory holes perfectly. It also plays nice with the factory skid behind it.Well after 4 months and 18 days, my front skid has finally arrived! Will try installing it tonight, not sure if it will clear the front KDSS spacer I recently added, so may have to take that off, since it hasn't really done much to my slight lean to the passenger side.
Congrats! NOW go and skid it up!!!All done. As others have noted, this skid is solid and well made. The included hardware lined up to the factory holes perfectly. It also plays nice with the factory skid behind it.
Had to end up taking off the front KDSS spacer in order to install it. Public service announcement: This skid does not fit with a Treaty Oaks KDSS spacer in place.
Speaking of spacer, check out photo below of the old skid and the highlighted area which is the contact it had with the front KDSS spacer (after about 2 weeks following install). So anyone planning to install this spacer after a lift, note that there may be some contact and you may have to do some trimming to your skid in order to fit.
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If you're offering, that would be awesome. I put together a spreadsheet comparing RCI's aluminum and steel skids. I didn't see a weight for RCI's x-fer skid, but estimating 30 lbs for steel, that'd put their front, trans, x-fer, fuel weight at 159 lbs for steel. Shipping weight seems like it's usually more than actual weight, but I also don't know if RCI includes brackets and hardware in their spec'd weight. It'd be good to know the total weight of bolt-ons.Mine are showing up tomorrow.
The 5 boxes weigh 216lbs according to UPS.
If anyone cares I can weigh the skid plates themselves as well as the OEM skid plates and post the weights?
If you're offering, that would be awesome. I put together a spreadsheet comparing RCI's aluminum and steel skids. I didn't see a weight for RCI's x-fer skid, but estimating 30 lbs for steel, that'd put their front, trans, x-fer, fuel weight at 159 lbs for steel. Shipping weight seems like it's usually more than actual weight, but I also don't know if RCI includes brackets and hardware. It'd be good to know the total weight of bolt-ons.
My UPS tracking said 160lbs for the full set so your math checks out.If you're offering, that would be awesome. I put together a spreadsheet comparing RCI's aluminum and steel skids. I didn't see a weight for RCI's x-fer skid, but estimating 30 lbs for steel, that'd put their front, trans, x-fer, fuel weight at 159 lbs for steel. Shipping weight seems like it's usually more than actual weight, but I also don't know if RCI includes brackets and hardware. It'd be good to know the total weight of bolt-ons.
Not sure if you need torque settings. Generally I'll just snug the nut down and then give it one last little twist, but not gorilla tight.I’ll weigh them up and let you know. I’m going to try to install them this weekend.
Does anyone know if they come with instructions and/or torque specs?
The only instructions that came with mine was to use antiseizeI’ll weigh them up and let you know. I’m going to try to install them this weekend.
Does anyone know if they come with instructions and/or torque specs?
The only instructions that came with mine was to use antiseize
Torque specs:
Cylinder block drain **** plug - 108 lb-in (13 Nm)
Radiator drain **** - hand tight
Rear engine under cover assembly - 21 lb-ft (12mm deepwell)
No. 1 engine under cover sub-assembly - 21 lb-ft (12mm deepwell)
Front lower bumper cover - 71 lb-in (10mm)
RCI transfer case skid is 42lbs. Total for front (42lbs), trans (32lbs), transfer and filler(5lbs) for 10-13 was 121lbs for steel powdercoated skids. I didn't get the gas tank one yet as the OEM one isn't completely rusted through on mine, was going to pop it off and coat/repaint it.If you're offering, that would be awesome. I put together a spreadsheet comparing RCI's aluminum and steel skids. I didn't see a weight for RCI's x-fer skid, but estimating 30 lbs for steel, that'd put their front, trans, x-fer, fuel weight at 159 lbs for steel. Shipping weight seems like it's usually more than actual weight, but I also don't know if RCI includes brackets and hardware in their spec'd weight. It'd be good to know the total weight of bolt-ons.
I'm with r2m on this. Bolting skid plates to your frame is not exactly precision work with fragile components. You don't want to deal with stuck bolts later, but you're not gonna break something because the OEM spec says 15 lb/ft and you hand tightened to 20-something.I think I found some of the torque specs just now even though my Google Fu failed last night:
DIY maintenance quick reference - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion - https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-2nd-gen-2010-present/958564-diy-maintenance-quick-reference.html
I'm still looking for the fuel tank skid torque specs though.....
Would "No. 1 fuel tank protector sub-assembly x Body" be what I'm looking for?
It shows 15 lb-ft for the torque spec.
I'm with r2m on this. Bolting skid plates to your frame is not exactly precision work with fragile components. You don't want to deal with stuck bolts later, but you're not gonna break something because the OEM spec says 15 lb/ft and you hand tightened to 20-something.
My dad was a nuclear engineer and my primary wrenching buddies are mechanical engineers, I get it lol.Yeah, I'm probably over thinking it. I just like to know I'm installing them correctly so I like torque values.
I always hated the term "farmer tight" growing up![]()