BRS 77'

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They also decked the block to account for the change from domed pistons to flat.

Really?

The blocks are essentially identical between the domes and flat top pistons. It's the heads (open vs closed chambers) that vary between the piston designs.. I have seen people take material off of a open chamber head to make it work with the flat top pistons, but never that much material off of the block..
 
Really?

The blocks are essentially identical between the domes and flat top pistons. It's the heads (open vs closed chambers) that vary between the piston designs.. I have seen people take material off of a open chamber head to make it work with the flat top pistons, but never that much material off of the block..
I'm pretty motor ignorant... I paged my buddy at Douglas Auto Machine to chime in.
 
Quick update for today... mated the transmission up to the transfer case... the input gear was CRAZY tight. I had to use a mallet to get it to slide on.

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Replaced the entire batch of dished washers and castle nuts on all the shocks and replaced with new cotter pins.

In order to install the new OME steering stabilizer, i figured now was a good time to rebuild the center arm. Can anyone advise as to why the seal is pushing out? Original seal looks reusable, right?

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The most exciting news around here is the new shoes that showed up from BFG. I scored a great deal on them through the BFG racer discount, so that helped the budget a very tiny amount.

here's a before and after the 2.5"OME and 33x10.5x15's installed. It sure looks tight in the rear, anyone experience rub with this setup?

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This is where the cut off wheel will do its work.
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Not really sure where to start with this whole project.

So far I've bolted the tube provided by Ken to the steering unit and tacked it to the lower support bracket. To get the EPS to fit, I cut off the mounts that were used on the vue.

Once i got it tacked in place I pulled the measurement from the spline adapter to the rag joint.

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Looks a little goofy mounted the way it is but it had to be clocked this way to clear all everything.

Hopefully by relocating the control module it won't looks as obnoxious.
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The most exciting news around here is the new shoes that showed up from BFG. I scored a great deal on them through the BFG racer discount, so that helped the budget a very tiny amount.

here's a before and after the 2.5"OME and 33x10.5x15's installed. It sure looks tight in the rear, anyone experience rub with this setup?

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I think it's a popular setup that doesn't rub.
 
Kudos to you Dad! (Next to last pic in post 31) It often takes more time to show the kids how to do something, but the rewards are far greater than the time used.

Don
 
Took the original bumper that was pretty mangled and used the hydraulic press straighten it out. Once it was straight i used the torchamate to build an internal frame for the 8274 that I could weld my laser cut 8274 plate to. Had it powder coated a nice silver. Turned out nice! Now if I could only get this damn 8274 to freespool!

Of course I had some help as well!

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Been working on getting the passenger side wired up with the help of @Coolerman . He's a ton of help on the wiring! I was really struggling trying to figure out how to wire up the fj60 distributor but Coolerman clarified the details for me.

Wired up the alternator with Coolerman's alternator kit. I made sure to have him send me a boot to cover the +post. He's sure got a good collection of electrical supply items!

Here's how i wired the fj60 distributor to my 77' FJ40:

  • Two wires (Red & White) from the distributor (removed the funky connector with the two tails) hook to the Red & White wires from the igniter.
  • The original Red wire that was hooked to my 77' FJ40 distributor was capped off
  • On the fender by the battery, i hooked the Black/Yellow wire to the male connector coming off the igniter with a staked on female spade connector.
  • I capped off the red wire (show with a blue female spade)
  • I left the black/white unhooked and ended up wrapping it into the harness with harness tape provided by Coolerman.
  • Ran the white/black ground wire to the bolt mounting the coil/igniter combo.

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Today's challenge is the turn signal switch. The one that came with the rig originally has the turn arm broken off so I ended up purchasing a new one over 6 months ago. oops... looks like i bought the wrong one.

Would it be reasonable to be able to convert the new switch to work with my different style harness? The number of wires doesn't match so I'm doubtful.

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