Broken rear axle

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Apr 10, 2021
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Layton, UT
I broke my driver side rear axle about 8 inches in, the rest is stuck in the carrier. I cant get to it as you can imagine its a tight squeeze. I'm thinking JB weld a piece on and pull. I cant pull the 3rd member without getting out. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance
 

Road Apple

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Beware….the Nitro axles have a history of breaking. 2 of my friends had the Nitros break. They have both replaced the front and rear with RCV’s and have had no problems. They both wheel the most difficult trails in the west.

Recommend the more durable RCV 4340 CrMo is you’re driving to the trail. The stronger RCV 300M if you trailer. Cruiser Outfitters sells them.
 
Joined
Apr 10, 2021
Messages
67
Location
Layton, UT
Beware….the Nitro axles have a history of breaking. 2 of my friends had the Nitros break. They have both replaced the front and rear with RCV’s and have had no problems. They both wheel the most difficult trails in the west.

Recommend the more durable RCV 4340 CrMo is you’re driving to the trail. The stronger RCV 300M if you trailer. Cruiser Outfitters sells them.
I understand like I said the chromoly should be tougher than factory, I broke my factory doing dumb things. If I baby it hope for the best. I'll run them till they break wish me luck
 

Road Apple

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I understand like I said the chromoly should be tougher than factory, I broke my factory doing dumb things. If I baby it hope for the best. I'll run them till they break wish me luck
For the rear axle, the 4340 isn’t an upgrade in strength from stock according to Cruiser Outfitters. This is the reason RCV didn’t offer a rear 4340 axle for the 80 series. The 300M is stronger than stock and is available on the RCV website. I’m told the RCV 4340 rear axle is now available on request.
 
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Dec 10, 2007
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Was just curious if there were any dings, damage, cracks at the edge of the break ie: wondering if it might give a clue as to why it snapped ie: stress crack, etc,etc.

@Blewseal ; could you post up a photo of each end (face) of the broken shaft??

You (we) could get the answer if the broken shaft was sent out to high tech lab for failure analysis, but that is not practical and would be expensive.


 
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May 26, 2005
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Encinitas, CA
We used an old beer can and some quikset jb weld to repair a busted case on my friends xr250 years ago.
I did something very similar to this with JB Weld on my tiny XR-75 case when I was a teen back in the late 70s. The XR I have now is 8.6x bigger...
 
Joined
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Layton, UT
Was just curious if there were any dings, damage, cracks at the edge of the break ie: wondering if it might give a clue as to why it snapped ie: stress crack, etc,etc.

@Blewseal ; could you post up a photo of each end (face) of the broken shaft??

You (we) could get the answer if the broken shaft was sent out to high tech lab for failure analysis, but that is not practical and would be expensive.


I didnt see any I can look up close and take some pictures. It really is an amazing clean break if you put the pieces together it looks new
 
Joined
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Layton, UT
May I ask how you broke the axel? I'm guessing on the trail. How did you drive out with the broken axel?
I Basically broke my own rules. The way I like to wheel up obstacles is slow and steady pick the best lines with the most traction and if I cant make it then so be it. I don't like to bounce this is how you break everything. Driver rear tire was in a crack between a tree and sharp rock, the front passenger was up against a steep rock step. I tried to bump up the front tire over by giving it throttle and momentum it bounced off and the back started to bounced under throttle. As the rear tires came down I am assuming at different times one tire hit and grabbed and the other hit and grabbed with my locker engaged and sent stress from right to left. Where it broke was all the way driver rear 8 inches away from the hub. Long story short don't bounce and spin, when it catches its a ton of stress. I don't know if that makes any sense its hard to get it in text. It basically drives in 3 wheel drive with 1 axle down just went straight home. Even freeway. I did have to be pulled up the mountain with 3 wheel drive it goes nowhere. Here's a pic of the monster my friend owns to get me out thank god.

Screenshot_2022-08-25-13-30-39-02_1c337646f29875672b5a61192b9010f9.jpg
 
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I Basically broke my own rules. The way I like to wheel up obstacles is slow and steady pick the best lines with the most traction and if I cant make it then so be it. I don't like to bounce this is how you break everything. Driver rear tire was in a crack between a tree and sharp rock, the front passenger was up against a steep rock step. I tried to bump up the front tire over by giving it throttle and momentum it bounced off and the back started to bounced under throttle. As the rear tires came down I am assuming at different times one tire hit and grabbed and the other hit and grabbed with my locker engaged and sent stress from right to left. Where it broke was all the way driver rear 8 inches away from the hub. Long story short don't bounce and spin, when it catches its a ton of stress. I don't know if that makes any sense its hard to get it in text. It basically drives in 3 wheel drive with 1 axle down just went straight home. Even freeway. I did have to be pulled up the mountain with 3 wheel drive it goes nowhere. Here's a pic of the monster my friend owns to get me out thank god.

View attachment 3096776
I see what you mean. It is like jumping your car and keeping your foot on the gas while you land. Speed of the wheel is greater than the travel speed of the vehicle. Do you have front locking differential? Doesn't look like a good place to get stuck...
 
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Layton, UT
I see what you mean. It is like jumping your car and keeping your foot on the gas while you land. Speed of the wheel is greater than the travel speed of the vehicle. Do you have front locking differential? Doesn't look like a good place to get stuck...
Yeah just like that tire rotation different speeds traction at different times causes like a whip effect .No front locker yet I have been upgrading all year so winch and front locker is next. I tried and failed on that obstacle it was a steep mountain plus obstacle I should have got winched. Yes there was only one way up or down, Down didn't seem to be a good option.
 
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Yeah just like that tire rotation different speeds traction at different times causes like a whip effect .No front locker yet I have been upgrading all year so winch and front locker is next. I tried and failed on that obstacle it was a steep mountain plus obstacle I should have got winched. Yes there was only one way up or down, Down didn't seem to be a good option.
Did you at least lock your center differential so you had one axle pulling the whole time? otherwise you're heating up the viscous coupler.

Place the Tcase in Low, make sure the CDL locks, then place in park, shut it off, then pull the CDL fuse.
 
Joined
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Layton, UT
Did you at least lock your center differential so you had one axle pulling the whole time? otherwise you're heating up the viscous coupler.

Place the Tcase in Low, make sure the CDL locks, then place in park, shut it off, then pull the CDL fuse.
It's locked in low low what's your point?
 
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It's locked in low low what's your point?
Your comment was it goes nowhere in 3 wheel drive.

I took that as if the CDL may have been unlocked and you had nothing.

I guess you had front and rear locked as well as the CDL then?
 
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Your comment was it goes nowhere in 3 wheel drive.

I took that as if the CDL may have been unlocked and you had nothing.

I guess you had front and rear locked as well as the CDL then?
Oh I just meant as far as off-road. Up any type of hill it spun. On the flat or down I could drive it home. CDL was locked no front or rear locker engaged
 

ceylonfj40nut

Waiting for Barn Time
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Can you remove PS axle and use a pipe to tap out the shaft piece in the carrier
 
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Even if it is twisted at will probably still come out. The issue he’s talking about is inherent with the OEM elockers.

Was this a Nitro brand shaft?
My son recently installed Nitro rear axles on his 80. They worked fine until he wheeled it and then broke an axle on the first trail. The splines only had ~1/8" engagement when we pulled the axle, enough for highway driving but not enough for off road use. Upon measuring the shaft, we found that it was almost 1" shorter than the OEM axle, hence the minimal engagement.
 

thatcabledude

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My son recently installed Nitro rear axles on his 80. They worked fine until he wheeled it and then broke an axle on the first trail. The splines only had ~1/8" engagement when we pulled the axle, enough for highway driving but not enough for off road use. Upon measuring the shaft, we found that it was almost 1" shorter than the OEM axle, hence the minimal engagement.
I saw one break on the tamest of trails. The 80 wasn’t bound up or doing anything hard at all. Not a heavy truck and only on 315s. It’s finished the trail pretty easily in FWD if that says anything about the tameness.
 

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