Broken Door Hinge Carnage (1 Viewer)

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The wife told me something seemed wrong with the right rear door on her 100. So I took a look and sure enough, the linkage that hinges was all messed up and actually had torn the sheet metal that attaches to the door, which contributed to why the door was not opening smoothly and properly.

So, my plan is to source another one of the hinges, and then figure out some way to weld in some sheet metal on the door when it was damaged so that I can re-attach the hinge. Does that seem like the best fix? Also, any idea of what this hinge is called, and it's purpose?

Pics:
1. Hinge
2. Mangled hinge attachment point
3. What it should look like (on the drivers side)
image-1579868102.jpg
image-937621441.jpg
image-339448001.jpg
 
It's called a door limiter. It limit the distance the door can open and locks it into place when parked on a hill. I'm guessing that the was opened to far being caught by wind or the like. It damaged the internal latch/components and locked it open or put massive resistance to its working and flexed the metal to the point it ripped out.

I think all 4 door limiters are the same, Cruiserparts.net has them.

Now having that door fixed, ya I'm not no sure about that. I'm sure it can be done, but thinking that replacing the door and painting will be cheaper and the right way.

Shane
 
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My 1998 RHRD has been fixed buy the previouse owner. The fix works like a champ....but not very nice looking.

Now I see the LHRD is starting to rip a little.

I will post pic's soon of the fix and the other door that will need fixing when the rain stops.

I might try industeral two part epoxy to fix it or do a weld along the cracks on the LHRD.
 
Toyota call it a CHECK ASSY, REAR DOOR, RH (or LH), $83 online, Beno may be cheaper.
To fix it you may be able to screw a plate on the inside of the door to spread out the load, this would be an easy fix for the LHRD as well I expect.
 
The door is repairable by a decent body guy who will weld in a backing plate to spread the load of the new door check. Happens to earlier Porsche 911s too. Stress of having the door snap against the check eventually results in stress cracking and tear out just like your pic above.
 
Pic's

I wish I saw this before I bought, never thought to look at the door hinges unless the doors are having a problem of opening and closing smoothly etc but it is what it is.

Here are picks.

The first pic is of the fix, Jerry riged fix on the RHRD. The door opens really smooth. I might find a cover of some sort to put over this for each door hinge fix.
IMG_0152.jpg

This pic is of the LHRD, its going to need a fix here soon.

IMG_0153.jpg
IMG_0152.jpg
IMG_0153.jpg
 
Two weeks ago I applied heavy duty (Gray in color) metal epoxy on the inside and the out side of the LHRD door hinge mount, and remounted the door limiter.

The door has been opened and closed around 50 plus time with no braking yet, so far so good.
 
I think all 4 door limiters are the same, Cruiserparts.net has them.

I believe the new and better site for Cruiser Parts is: http://shop.cruiserparts.net/

I just purchased a f/r rotatory diff lock (fj80) for my 100 for when I put my front locker in from these guys and they told me to go to the new site.
The new site has pic's of all the parts.;)
 
The door is repairable by a decent body guy who will weld in a backing plate to spread the load of the new door check. Happens to earlier Porsche 911s too. Stress of having the door snap against the check eventually results in stress cracking and tear out just like your pic above.

I like this idea; placing a backing plate inside the door. Makes for a much cleaner repair.
 
Nice.

Does that come as a package of 2 plates?

Does it mount to the inside or outside of door?
2-pack, yes.

These mount behind the 10mm nuts against the door frame (outside).

I’ve determined that closing the door puts more strain on the mount so adding these will prevent fatigue. The reason this is an issue is the door limiter itself. If it is not replaced or refurbished/greased, it will continue to make noise.



This won’t fix a door that’s already FUBAR, though. Some fabrication/body work required.
 

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