Broken axles on trail, what to do? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter concretejungle
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sleeoffroad said:
Heh.
Now THAT'S pretty funny........
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
sleeoffroad said:
Black Hills amnesia.
TJK
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
I'd add a deck of cards, a book, and a bottle of corn squeezin's to that overnight list.
TJK
TJK
As several with much more experience have noted, keeping the cool is key. Also get the truck out of everyone’s way is also important.
Only had one like this happen on the trail (note that I will state the birfield breaking in the backyard was much easier to deal with ). Once it broke, as Christo mentions, the truck pretty much was not going anywhere on it’s own power. In my case we were stalling an M12k winch and had to go to a double line pull. While this happened on a muddy rocky trail in the Catskills, it happened only about ½ mile from our staging field that housed lights (it was late and getting dark), air tools and a lot of cruiserheads. We winched the truck through one section, took a bypass, winched some more (dang 2 wheel drive sucks) and eventually I limped it slowly down to the field. From there I rode shotgun. At the time I was jacked on blood thinners and couldn’t take a chance on cutting myself badly. So my friends, JH, Alejandro and Swiftie took care of me. Pulled the snapped birfield out, made sure we got every bit out. Stuck part of a ripped up tshirt wrapped in duct tape into the housing. Locked the CDL and drove it home 200 miles. Carefully and slowly. This was before I started carrying extra bits.
A few things went right.
We were able to get the truck off the trail and close to lights and the right tools.
While I was in no physical condition to work on the truck I was surrounded by cruiserheads and great guys.
Toyota fixed it under certified warranty 
:majorscoreforme:
I now wheel with spares including everything I would need like new seals, bearings, even 2 knuckles, inner shafts, birfields etc. You just never know.
In my book (which only matters to me), wheeling is one thing. Once you start wheeling with 35+ tires, you have a responsibility to others in your party to have the spare parts you need to fix something. Ok if you blow something big that is one thing, but knowing your birfields are the weak link when running 35+ tires means you are being negligent if you don’t have at least some spares. Coin up if on 35+ tires. You spent the money on the lift and tires so you better have some spares too.
Only had one like this happen on the trail (note that I will state the birfield breaking in the backyard was much easier to deal with
). Once it broke, as Christo mentions, the truck pretty much was not going anywhere on it’s own power. In my case we were stalling an M12k winch and had to go to a double line pull. While this happened on a muddy rocky trail in the Catskills, it happened only about ½ mile from our staging field that housed lights (it was late and getting dark), air tools and a lot of cruiserheads. We winched the truck through one section, took a bypass, winched some more (dang 2 wheel drive sucks) and eventually I limped it slowly down to the field. From there I rode shotgun. At the time I was jacked on blood thinners and couldn’t take a chance on cutting myself badly. So my friends, JH, Alejandro and Swiftie took care of me. Pulled the snapped birfield out, made sure we got every bit out. Stuck part of a ripped up tshirt wrapped in duct tape into the housing. Locked the CDL and drove it home 200 miles. Carefully and slowly. This was before I started carrying extra bits.
A few things went right.
We were able to get the truck off the trail and close to lights and the right tools.
While I was in no physical condition to work on the truck I was surrounded by cruiserheads and great guys.
Toyota fixed it under certified warranty
:majorscoreforme:I now wheel with spares including everything I would need like new seals, bearings, even 2 knuckles, inner shafts, birfields etc. You just never know.
In my book (which only matters to me), wheeling is one thing. Once you start wheeling with 35+ tires, you have a responsibility to others in your party to have the spare parts you need to fix something. Ok if you blow something big that is one thing, but knowing your birfields are the weak link when running 35+ tires means you are being negligent if you don’t have at least some spares. Coin up if on 35+ tires. You spent the money on the lift and tires so you better have some spares too.
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
The trail will do funny things to people, especially late in the day with a cold beer and a hot meal in their sights. No less than 6 Cruisers in a TLCA chapter group drove by me that day, offered no help. Nothing, Luckily I had these two great old friends along for the ride.
TJK
TJK
Last edited:
semlin
curmudgeon
great thread. I had never thought this through beyond pulling the axle shaft and locking the CDL.
A couple of points of clarification
-if you disconnect the front drive shaft and remove the outer hub flange with the teeth that locks the broken axle to the wheel (is this the drive plate??) will that immoblize the axle on say the right side all the way to and including the diff or will the fact the left axle still has a hub flange lead to the possibility that the left wheel will turn the left axle which in turn will turn the diff which in turn will turn the right axle? You can tell I don't know how diff gearing works. If the answer is that removing one hub flange is not enough, will removing both do it?
-if you bust a birf or axle up front, do you really need to tear it down to the knuckle housing and pull the birf and axle, or is it sufficient to remove one (or both) of the outer hub flanges ( I am assuming you also drop the front drive shaft and lock the CDL either way) I would have thought that with no drive shaft and no hub flange the wheels would be turning on the spindles and nothing inside there would be moving or at risk of more damage.
-If I am right about removing the hub flange I know you can buy an AISIn manual unlocking hub set but can you buy a permanently unlocked hub flange (or a pair) somewhere cheap? This would be a fairly light spare to carry.
-if you have a 91-92 with a semi floating rear are you hooped if you break that axle or is there a way to keep rolling?
A couple of points of clarification
-if you disconnect the front drive shaft and remove the outer hub flange with the teeth that locks the broken axle to the wheel (is this the drive plate??) will that immoblize the axle on say the right side all the way to and including the diff or will the fact the left axle still has a hub flange lead to the possibility that the left wheel will turn the left axle which in turn will turn the diff which in turn will turn the right axle? You can tell I don't know how diff gearing works. If the answer is that removing one hub flange is not enough, will removing both do it?
-if you bust a birf or axle up front, do you really need to tear it down to the knuckle housing and pull the birf and axle, or is it sufficient to remove one (or both) of the outer hub flanges ( I am assuming you also drop the front drive shaft and lock the CDL either way) I would have thought that with no drive shaft and no hub flange the wheels would be turning on the spindles and nothing inside there would be moving or at risk of more damage.
-If I am right about removing the hub flange I know you can buy an AISIn manual unlocking hub set but can you buy a permanently unlocked hub flange (or a pair) somewhere cheap? This would be a fairly light spare to carry.
-if you have a 91-92 with a semi floating rear are you hooped if you break that axle or is there a way to keep rolling?
alia176
SILVER Star
A great tool to carry in your tool box is a telescoping magnet. Even if you pull out the broken part of the rear axle, you still to pull out the other half of it from waaay inside the axle tubing. You may still need to extend the telescoping magnet by duct taping it to a longer handle of some sort.
Another nice thing to have is front locking hubs on the 80s. If you do break something up front, you could limp out by removing front driveshaft and unlocking hubs. This is in case you don't have a replacement birfield. Same thing can be accomplished by removing both birfs and stuffing rag in the holes.
Another nice thing to have is front locking hubs on the 80s. If you do break something up front, you could limp out by removing front driveshaft and unlocking hubs. This is in case you don't have a replacement birfield. Same thing can be accomplished by removing both birfs and stuffing rag in the holes.
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Locking hubs would work or a spare set of hub fanges with the splines bored out, but if your pulling them anyway why not just tape them up? Pulling both is best, then nothing turns.
shattered birfields have a funny way of disintegrating into chunks just large enuf to wedge between the axle housing itself and the knuckle....having that occur at trail speeds and doing 10-point turns sucks (unlocked and in 2wd don't matter)....having that occur at 30 in town or at 60 on the road would be a mess....
in the front, teardown/removal is the only option...I woudln't do it any other way.
in the front, teardown/removal is the only option...I woudln't do it any other way.
semlin
curmudgeon
thanks Woody, I will remember that. It always helps to have a tangible reason to do the extra work at 4:30pm with the light fading and the temp dropping.
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
Keep busy, keep warm.
TJK
TJK
woody said:
Experience = Agree 100%
Not worth the risk. I have even removed the broken birf. knowing the trailer was just 5 miles away. (Removed did not replace, just drove out)
Yes it’s tough to justify spending limited cruiser $ on spare parts that just ride around in the truck. Just keep in mind how valuable those parts become when you or a buddy needs them. To help keep spare parts costs down do things like save the old bearing’s when you R&R your front end, give the extra set to a buddy. This works well for all kinds of other things from belts to plug wires too. For the big parts just start collecting the key things, birf., axels, knuckles, drive shafts. This is where a buddy with the same truck comes into play. Great if you can kind of split the spare parts list. Even if he is not on the trail with you, you at least know where that part is sitting or snag it before you hit the trail.
Large events:
As a club the Cascade Cruisers typically will meet before heading to a large event like CM05. The group will compile a list of all the spare parts people will have with them and then fill in the gaps if needed. It’s not uncommon for there to be transmissions and transfer cases to be in camp if needed next to 3-4 built 3rd members. Same goes for knowing who has on board welders and air. In the camp we make sure there are a few floor jacks and jack stands as well. Still for those of us running specialized gear like my 5.29’s I know I am on my own for a 3rd.
Mark
I can't see a downside to that, Semlin. If you pulled both drive plates (which connect the axle splined tip to the rotating hub/wheel on the ground then nothing will wedge, jam or even move in the front axle all the way home. That's a great reason to keep an old set of plates if you ever replaced 'em. Have the splines machined off. Heck, even the grease cap would go back on.
Anyone else see this differently?
DougM
Anyone else see this differently?
DougM
IdahoDoug said:
yes.
picture a shattered birf...shards....chunks...cage and balls in pieces....this is how they break as a rule...
now picture nothing rotating up front, but you are still steering, and the birf/inner are still pivoting...even tho they are busted and not turning...and one of those loose pieces shifts around...and they will...and you can now only steer left cause the piece is jammed in there....
now, try that at 30mph....
- Thread starter
- #36
woody said:yes.
picture a shattered birf...shards....chunks...cage and balls in pieces....this is how they break as a rule...
now picture nothing rotating up front, but you are still steering, and the birf/inner are still pivoting...even tho they are busted and not turning...and one of those loose pieces shifts around...and they will...and you can now only steer left cause the piece is jammed in there....
now, try that at 30mph....
Now the muddy water is clearing up.
ginericfj80 said:
I have seen a 40 limp (And I mean LIMP) to a trailer with the rear disk conversion keeping the axel in place. Was not fast nor pretty. Good reason for a disk brake conversion for the rear.
Mark
helocat said:
Except it doesn't really make sense to do it on an 80, better just to swap in a fullfloater with discs. I've looked at doing it quite a bit. By the time I get all the parts and then consider the time involved it is about as cheap to buy a fullfloater factory rear disc brake rearend used. I've been looking for one that somebody robbed the third out of. I could probably get it cheaper and drop my ARB in.
