Broke the Bleeder Plug on AHC Accumulator

[fumetsu]

Hey fellas.

While doing the AHC fluid flush today, I broke off the bleeder plug on the accumulator. I didn't realize how rusty the whole bolt was. I used penetrating oil on the actuators, so they were all flushed, but I couldn't work on the accumulator. Because the half of the nut broke off, I now have nothing to turn the plug with. Any suggestions on how to rectify this?

Do I need a new accumulator?

Thank you.

 

[inkpot]

You might be able to insert a small Easy Out into the center hole, but it will be very small. You could get a set of Reverse (left hand rotation) drill bits and drill it out just like any other broken bolt. John

 

[sonk76]

Hey fellas.

While doing the AHC fluid flush today, I broke off the bleeder plug on the accumulator. I didn't realize how rusty the whole bolt was. I used penetrating oil on the actuators, so they were all flushed, but I couldn't work on the accumulator. Because the half of the nut broke off, I now have nothing to turn the plug with. Any suggestions on how to rectify this?

Do I need a new accumulator?

Thank you.

I've done the same thing. I just left it. By flushing all the globes you get most of the old fluid out. You can always flush them twice (the globes that is) if not comfortable with getting enough fluid the first time.

I did that and had good results with the flush.

EDIT: I had previously done a "full" flush of the system with the bleeder plug on the accumulator working (I've flushed the system twice in the time I've had the truck--once with the accumulator bleeder working, and once with it broken as described above.) I could not tell any difference in the system performance between when I flushed the accumulator and the globes vs. when I just flushed the globes. In both cases I replaced the fluid with brand-new AHC fluid. In both cases the result was a material increase in the system performance (i.e., smoother ride, and much bigger difference between the 4 selectable modes.)

I seem to be one of the very few people who is actually a very big fan of the AHC system. I will definitely keep it around as long as it survives, and will even consider replacing with OEM components before getting rid of the system.

 

[sonk76]

I've done the same thing. I just left it. By flushing all the globes you get most of the old fluid out. You can always flush them twice (the globes that is) if not comfortable with getting enough fluid the first time.

I did that and had good results with the flush.

EDIT: I had previously done a "full" flush of the system with the bleeder plug on the accumulator working (I've flushed the system twice in the time I've had the truck--once with the accumulator bleeder working, and once with it broken as described above.) I could not tell any difference in the system performance between when I flushed the accumulator and the globes vs. when I just flushed the globes. In both cases I replaced the fluid with brand-new AHC fluid. In both cases the result was a material increase in the system performance (i.e., smoother ride, and much bigger difference between the 4 selectable modes.)

I seem to be one of the very few people who is actually a very big fan of the AHC system. I will definitely keep it around as long as it survives, and will even consider replacing with OEM components before getting rid of the system.

...to elaborate a bit on my excitement over the AHC system

I love being able to drive around in normal conditions without raising the truck too much (even with a diff drop, I don't wan to put too much unnecessary angle on the CV joints), and then raise it to a "reasonable" lift when needed.

I am running a "sensor lift" ~1" front, 1.5-2" back.

Sorry for the potentially off-topic post, but wanted to throw the perspective in there (in my opinion, people are a bit trigger happy in getting rid of the AHC system... I'm sure there are good reasons to do it for some, but not sure it's the right answer for all...)

 

[fumetsu]

I also have a problem with the rear right being about 2" higher than the rear left. Is there a way to correct this? It doesn't seem to be the rear AHC sensor as there is only one for the rear.

 

[3D FJ]

(in my opinion, people are a bit trigger happy in getting rid of the AHC system... I'm sure there are good reasons to do it for some, but not sure it's the right answer for all...)

i think i may have been.

 

[PADDO]

So you're not cross level? A 2 inch variance is pretty significant. I'd find a flat level spot and take accurate height measurements at all four corners, this will tell you if you need to level the front by adjusting the TBs, consider trim packers for the rear coils if rear remains out of level spec (about 10mm) tolerance. There are several good threads here on AHC neutral pressure and vehicle height/ leveling adjustments. Ultimately you want about 25mm rake, cross level within 10mm and neutral pressures in spec. I don't see any urgency in attacking the busted bleed nipple on your AHC accumulator, the thread body ain't going anywhere! Ezy outs could do the job, but don't rush in and do more harm by damaging the valve seat or threading with a butchered attempt at removing the bleed nipple stub.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[uHu]

I also have a problem with the rear right being about 2" higher than the rear left. Is there a way to correct this? It doesn't seem to be the rear AHC sensor as there is only one for the rear.

Adjust that out with the front TBs. Make sure your steering wheel is straight when doing it - only then the left-right valve i open and lets the truck "lean freely". You need TechStream or similar tho'.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

Does anyone in Calgary, AB, Canada have TechStream that I can borrow? I can't seem to get it working on my PC...

 

[2001LC]

I've gone and busted the bleeder on the accumulator. I could just leave it and bleed around it as was done above I suppose. But I've ordered 5 new bleeders form my Toyota Parts source. He had to use parts number off the 06 LC for my 2000. We're assuming all years of bleeder plugs are the same. Can anyone confirm this?

Additional; I'd like to replace all the bleeders. I've not yet tried loosening any others, but have sprayed each with penetrating oil. I'd like to heat and cool three times with torch, the broken accumulator and possible will need too heat actuators bleeders plugs. My concern is possible damage to internals of accumulator and/or actuators internals. I've no idea of what affect heat may have. Can anyone shed some light on this?

 

[PabloCruise]

I would be leary of heating a system that contains pressurized hydraulic fluid with a torch!

On the other hand, I have often wondered how good the speedi-freeze cans are that you see at the parts store for loosening stuck/broken bleeder nipples.

Let us know what happens!

 

[2001LC]

speedi-freeze, Hummmm

 

[2001LC]

I'm still considering using heat from a bottle NAPP gas with small tip (plumbers torch).

I'm not overly concerned with heating hydraulic fluid, as I've seen done on calipers. Keeping heat directed on bleeders should keep area and fluid heating to a minimum. I'll also cover with wet rag (plumbers trick), too help divert heat from globes & accumulator.

Why are you leery of heating pressurized hydraulic fluid with torch?

Any expansions of fluid should be taken up with system (lifting), wouldn't it?

My biggest concern is with any internal rubber or plastic seal(s) or parts that may be in close proximity to bleeders in accumulator & actuators. Are there any?

Would heat damage gas or internals of globes?

 

[2001LC]

My soaking the bleeders of actuators repeatedly over the week, paid off, no heat was needed. They all had rubber caps on, so I was probably overly concerned.

As for the broken accumulator bleeder (without rubber cap), I bleed around it. I was prepared to use heat and speedi-freeze, but was stop short of that. In the end I had too agree, the work to remove & risk of damage it just didn't make sense to attempt.

I've now gone back and checked for any missing bleeder cap on all my rigs. Ended up ordered 8 new rubber caps for brakes and 1 for an accumulator.