Figure new brake pads are just under 12mm thickness new. Depends on driving style, but conservatively, that's good for say 50k miles. 2mm will easily go a few thousand miles, and if mostly freeway, lots more.
Brakes
- Thread starter ATwoZ
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Figure new brake pads are just under 12mm thickness new. Depends on driving style, but conservatively, that's good for say 50k miles. 2mm will easily go a few thousand miles, and if mostly freeway, lots more.
ATwoZ
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #23
Is th
Is this the conversion you're referring to? DIY Tundra Brakes (BBK) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/diy-tundra-brakes-bbk.1222890/
Thats the one. Best safety related upgrade I have made to the 200. Even the brake pedal feel is better. Easier to modulate the pressure.
bloc
SILVER Star
Read all the way to the last pages. Someone recently discovered 16+ calipers make fitting the lines much easier, and the only mod needed is to enlarge the mounting ear holes in the knuckle. Also the calipers can be had brand new pretty cheap.
ATwoZ
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #27
Well I'm a few more steps forward, I have parts ordered with the upgraded 2016+ calipers and associated hardware, plus a 9/16" reamer per the Tundra BBK thread to enlarge the holes of the new calipers. I've got a Stoptech Stage 3 Truck Kit of Rotors and Pads on order as well. Since this is all new for me, I will not be going the pure DIY route, and instead will make sure I've got some experienced help with the replacement. Since I'm doing all 4, is there anything I should be looking at with the ebrake or replacing any of the lines, or not needed?
Thanks @bloc @TeCKis300 @CharlieS @linuxgod and @Cruisin911
Thanks @bloc @TeCKis300 @CharlieS @linuxgod and @Cruisin911
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I picked up the SDHQ upgraded brake lines recommended by other 'mud users. Probably not necessary, but worth it for me.
There is a spring loaded fastener in the emergency brake that is easy to dislodge when removing rear rotors. It is a sub-dime sized disc with a slot that engages with a post tab to retain a spring:
If the disk pops off, it is very helpful to have the special tool to reinstall it. It isn't a toyota special tool, and should be available at large auto parts chains. Mine has a screwdriver type handle with a funky end. Something similar to this:
Also, if you grab some long-ish (50mm?) M6 fully threaded bolts, they can be useful for removing rotors that get stuck to the hub. You'll see two threaded holes in the face of the rotor that you can screw them into and it pushes the rotor off the hub without drama.
I believe Toyota recommends new caliper bolts (although many people reuse them).
Grab new brake hardware kits, front and rear, unless they came with your replacement calipers. The Toyota full replacement calipers come with this hardware installed. Refreshing the pad sliding surfaces will be worthwhile. On that note, be sure to remove any corrosion under the stainless slider parts (a stiff wire brush should be sufficient) before reassembly.
Have a container of high temp brake grease so you can clean and relubricate the rear caliper slider pins in the boots. A container will last years and many brake jobs.
There is a spring loaded fastener in the emergency brake that is easy to dislodge when removing rear rotors. It is a sub-dime sized disc with a slot that engages with a post tab to retain a spring:
If the disk pops off, it is very helpful to have the special tool to reinstall it. It isn't a toyota special tool, and should be available at large auto parts chains. Mine has a screwdriver type handle with a funky end. Something similar to this:
Also, if you grab some long-ish (50mm?) M6 fully threaded bolts, they can be useful for removing rotors that get stuck to the hub. You'll see two threaded holes in the face of the rotor that you can screw them into and it pushes the rotor off the hub without drama.
I believe Toyota recommends new caliper bolts (although many people reuse them).
Grab new brake hardware kits, front and rear, unless they came with your replacement calipers. The Toyota full replacement calipers come with this hardware installed. Refreshing the pad sliding surfaces will be worthwhile. On that note, be sure to remove any corrosion under the stainless slider parts (a stiff wire brush should be sufficient) before reassembly.
Have a container of high temp brake grease so you can clean and relubricate the rear caliper slider pins in the boots. A container will last years and many brake jobs.
Last edited:
bloc
SILVER Star
I agree with all of the above.
Be sure to read the FSM for the parking brake setup. You’ll need a fish scale capable of measuring 45# of force, to adjust the handle to 5-7 clicks at that weight. To get it right I usually have to set things up with a very small amount of drag, but this wears itself in very quickly.
Backing off the adjusting wheels before removing the rear rotor will help keep everything in place, but finding the correct position and flat blade screwdriver motion can be.. frustrating. Videos and pictures will help a lot for this part.
Be sure to read the FSM for the parking brake setup. You’ll need a fish scale capable of measuring 45# of force, to adjust the handle to 5-7 clicks at that weight. To get it right I usually have to set things up with a very small amount of drag, but this wears itself in very quickly.
Backing off the adjusting wheels before removing the rear rotor will help keep everything in place, but finding the correct position and flat blade screwdriver motion can be.. frustrating. Videos and pictures will help a lot for this part.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
YES!!!! ^What @bloc said - the adjusting wheels for the ebrake are a bit mysterious until you see how they work. Lining the hole up with the star wheel, rotating them in the correct direction (mostly blindly) before rotor removal is important (less likely to dislodge ebrake parts, the ebrake shoes can catch on a lip that wears into the inside of the rotor center "drum"). Then getting them readjusted correctly is a bit of an art.
I must admit that I can never remember if flipping the star wheel up is loosening or tightening and if they are different directions on each side. You'll figure it out - going in one direction expands the position of the ebrake shoes and prevents the rotor from moving, the other makes the rotor easier to turn.
Also, (and maybe this is obvious) don't set your ebrake when you park the car to do this job. It will make it virtually impossible to remove the rear rotors.
I must admit that I can never remember if flipping the star wheel up is loosening or tightening and if they are different directions on each side. You'll figure it out - going in one direction expands the position of the ebrake shoes and prevents the rotor from moving, the other makes the rotor easier to turn.
Also, (and maybe this is obvious) don't set your ebrake when you park the car to do this job. It will make it virtually impossible to remove the rear rotors.
bloc
SILVER Star
I struggled to remember every time so I put notes in the how-to page of my maintenance spreadsheet.
Handle down/out tightens, on both sides. Obviously it’s opposite for loosening. A note for @ATwoZ and anyone else, keep track of the number of star-wheel “teeth” you loosen and tighten. It is very much a “getting the feel of it” maneuver, and if you go set numbers of teeth it helps make it a little less of an art and more of a procedure. But it’s still an art.
Also, on the driver side the hole should be at 5 o’clock, passenger is mirror image so 7 o’clock.
