I did but it’s not easily reversible. Honestly, probably cheaper to buy a new master cylinder/booster if you wanted to do it. That said, I think most people will kill someone if they try it. It requires opening up a certain hole an incredibly small amount and very few here are skilled enough to do modification, much less are a certified mechanic who knows their way around those critical components. Plus there’s the need to truly know how to remove and disassemble the unit itself. I mentioned it, then got a lot of PMs about it, and after talking to some people about it. Realized that I would cause a terrible problem if I did a how to, when someone get tired from the long process and tries to just “get it done” with common tools.
I did do a 60-0 test between old pads and disks on my ‘11, new OE pads and frozen disks, new Hawk LTS, and new pads and disks on a ‘18 (all the same ‘18s newer OE tires.)
They all stopped under 5’ of each other. I did my modification to my MC and stopped the shortest but it was negligible.
I think there is only so hard you can slow a tire on a big lumbering 200 before it wants to loose grip. And at that point the ABS will take over. Also, a lot of people switch to a different pad/disk and say how much better it is. Of course, but I bet it’s that it’s new, not different. It’s a enthusiast forum, so we like to tinker, but I don’t see how anyone here can qualifiable say that a different brake combo actually stops you shorter.
So I’ve come to the conclusion that the factory booster setup will stop you as fast as possible. They just don’t grab hard under normal driving to save brake life. The newest cruisers also have spongy brakes. I’ve gotten in a 2014 I did cryo disks and new OE pads for a test drive, and then did it in a 2020 and they both suck when going down the hill from the shop. Stop and go, the 2016+ “feels better” but it doesn’t stop shorter. It is sacrificing brake life for driver happiness.
People who have had both, have probably had more worn brakes on their 2008-2015 then get a 2016+ with newer brakes.
@TeCKis300. So you know, a 8 speed won’t stop a 200 faster than a 6 speed. The trans doesn’t drop down to any lower gear, even though 1st gear would be the only one to make a difference, under any type of braking situation. Even if it did, the ration is so small that it wouldn’t matter.
Also, I haven't seen a 2016+ stop shorter that a 2008-2015. It just feels like it grabs harder, sooner at really low speeds. Where I see the 2008-2015 brakes grabbing just as hard, but slightly more pedal travel is needed to tap into that. But then again, I hear a lot of people say their 2016+ brakes cause vibration very early as 2008-2015 don’t as much. The ‘18 I have daily access to vibrated with 20k on the clock and a quick spin on my balancer showed it had a ton of runout. But my ‘11 got to 110k before it they were shot. And that was 68k of city driving by the hard on cars previous owner.
