Brake Lines: Complete Braided SS (1 Viewer)

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SouthMS40

SouthMS40

Joined
Feb 4, 2013
Threads
24
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166
Location
Gulfport, Mississippi
So I'm still working on my 40 and considering brake lines. Is it practical or recommend to use all braided stainless steel lines?

They would be all custom made. The plan is to run a dedicated line for each axle and only tee each line once for each wheel.

I have a 4-runner master cylinder, rear disc conversion, and factory discs up front so buying off the shelf may not work very well. I have two companies lined up to request quotes from. One site mentioned lines can be done for around $200. That's still TBD.
 
Eliminating hard lines altogether? If that is what you mean I'd recommend against it. Braided lines are more flexible than hard and will produce a softer pedal.
 
Keep your hard lines.. Everybody carries hard lines. It's very difficult to replace stainless braided if you have a failure. It's also hard to pinch a soft line shut to get out of a bad situation.
 
Mace, that's the issue. I don't have any lines now. I'm trying to decide how to move forward.

I can buy a complete set from SOR but will trash half of them because of existing mods they won't work. Their online catalog does not offer individual lines. Making my own lines is just not something I want to tackle or have time to fool with honestly. I want to buy and bolt on. I guess another option would be to call around and see who offers prefit hardlines.
 
I thought about doing complete stainless as well, but a reputable hose/fitting store here told me not to. They said it makes the system mushy, as the soft lines will expand slightly. I believe them, as it would have been in their best interest to make me long soft lines.
 
Thank you for your suggestions. I guess I need to either find someone that is experienced at making hard lines that don't leak or buy some preformed.
 
Rainman one here makes brake lines. Search the 40/55 section and you should be able to find his store. I believe you can buy the individual lines too.
 
A roll of line and a double flare tool. 20 minutes of practice and you'll be making leak free lines.
This is my direction at least.
 
I made break lines for my 40 when I was 16 with a five min lesson from the store I bought my hard lines from. 18 years later no problems.

Buy the tool for 50 bucks and have a go. You can find the ends in the classified section on mud, or put up a wtb ad. Someone will get you what you need
 
hard lines are better because they are easier to install/fasten to the frame. all-stainless flex lines are a very expensive option, but my experience is they don't add mush to the system... with that said, I've never had two systems side-by-side where it would be an honest comparison.

I do know that you will have a hard time getting DOT approved all-stainless-flex lines... as was said above, 10 minutes of practice and you'll have leak-free joints. On top of this, there are AN-fitting systems that make crafting brake-line systems a lot easier.

And finally, run away from stainless-steel hard lines. Making them and keeping them leak-free is not easy, and will cause a novice to burn their '40 to the ground. I'll even give you the how-it happens. They make a joint that looks good but the joint wasn't perfectly (and I do mean perfect) deburred. They put it together and it seems to tighten well. They know they cannot overtighten because it will strip the fitting. So they put the system together and it leaks. If they're lucky, it's at an end where they can simply shorten the line and re-flare. Here's where they make the mistake. They don't get a new fitting for the soft side of the joint. Stainless is hard enough that it will cut into the other metal and thus, once it's back together, it will leak.... and that goes on until sanity leaves. I've actually rebuilt someone's stainless system where everything leaked and every fitting and hose had to be replaced because of it.

The other issue with hard-stainless-line is they are nearly impossible to flare on the vehicle because of the force needed to flare the fitting.

On the other hand, as long as you are careful, buy a good cutting tool, and take your time - the steel/stainless flex line system won't leak and will work as advertised.

If you are building a custom system - do spend some time learning about brake line sizing.... wilwood has a great how-to section for this.
 
Happen to me once that I smash ( against my winch cable o cable against the SS brake line don't ask me how this happen ) an SS line.. after the " incident " the line steel looks perfect ( upon closer inspection ) but the plastic inside " tube " was deadly damaged .. wasn't up to the point I press the brake pedal you realize that was useless ..

So another vote to run as much hard line as you could ..
 
I know you are reluctant to do the work yourself. I am too. So many pieces are required and there are so many posts of guys having a hard time getting the right combo. I bought a flare tool and had mixed luck with new lines at the master cylinder. Stay away from cheap tools like Harbor Freight. They don't make repeatable flares. I re-used my 40 year old lines when I rebuilt my truck and regret it now. Look at the amount of work to make lines compared to the rest of what it takes to put a 40 together. It's a drop in the bucket. I read lots of good reviews of the ni-copp tubing in a bulk roll. It seems to be easier to bend and flare than regular steel.
 
I seriously think (and this is by bitter experience) that most are afraid to call the big-boys for help (e.g. Wilwood). I had a terrible time getting the rear brakes to work on a disk-brake conversion and finally, after spending twice as much as it would have cost to simply buy the kit, I called them. I can't express how grateful I am to them - whenever I set up brakes now (and I actually am starting to get the basics on this) I call them and ask their thoughts.

As for flaring.... it's an art to get them to not leak the first time. I hate Art.
 
For a brake flaring tool do not buy cheap.

The hydraulic flare tool is worth it's weight in gold. Even with stainless brake lines. Consistent and leak free.
 
Redgrrr said:
You can find the ends in the classified section on mud, or put up a wtb ad.
Click to expand...

As my SOA evolves, now with a FF80 rear, I have been cutting out the old ends and reusing then when I make new lines. My rig is however a dedicated Wheeler and hasn't seen pavement in years.
 
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