Brake job, large hub nut, how to remove (1 Viewer)

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At the 12:18 mark of the video at the top of this post, there's a really large socket required to get two hub nuts off to keep the entire brake upgrade I'm doing moving forward. I don't have this tool and haven't been able to find any other creative means to get said nuts off. Any ideas?

I'm out of town working on my truck, all local auto stores don't have anything that fits/helps. If anyone's got any sage advice/tricks up their sleeves, please chime in. Would love to get this done tonight....

thx!
 
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54mm hub socket... a worthwhile investment, though as you've found, tough to find on short notice. If you're in a pinch, you may be able to find someone in a local clubhouse willing to lend you one.

I've also seen a 2 1/8" socket used.
 

NLXTACY

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54mm Socket. Very common on Amazon ;)

You're in AZ, should be plenty of folks that will loan it to you.

EDIT: I'm too slow evidently :p
 
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Thx guys, I'll keep at it tonight with a regular screw driver/hammer (no chisel handy but going for the same idea, already been at it a while).

Worst case I pick back up next weekend after getting the right tool.....grrrr

Have a good night!
 
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hot damn i got it loose! the power of Mud folks sending positive vibes on a saturday night......i worked that thing for 25 minutes before posting.....immediately came loose after getting some feedback. back at it!
 
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I couldn't get the rear seal off (to get to the rear wheel bearing). In trying to pry it out (similar to what's in that video), a metallic o-ring slipped out and I can't seem to comfortably get it back in place totally.

So I haven't removed the rear wheel bearing/seal but have a mystery o-ring that i'm trying to get back in place. Since I'm replacing rotors, do I even need to take the rear wheel bearing out? Can't I just re-grease as it still sits inside the hub?

Did I damage the seal? WTF is that mystery o-ring that doesn't show up on the exploded diagram in my FSM? Pic below shows what I'm talking about - the dimpled areas of the outer seal are pinching down and not allowing me to get that ring back in.
 
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pic attached

IMG_0102.JPG
 
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No need to pull that seal for rotor work, but I would replace that seal now. I usually use a pry bar to remove the seal. Checker and Autozone have those seal, and some of them will pull the seal for you too.
 
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Documenting where I'm at, personal sanity check, stopping for the night, thx for the feedback thus far:
  1. Passenger front is where I started. Brakes never "squealed", heard a grinding noise last time I had a chance to be in the 80 so decided to tear apart and do the "big brake upgrade". Tonight's disassembly revealed:
    • I obviously need to pick up a 54mm....
    • With rotor/hub removed, inner pad completely down to the metal and that side of the rotor is shot and noticeably worn down - badly. Terrible grooves everywhere, probably borderline dangerous. Very glad I'm doing this upgrade but also shocked I had no indication before hearing some grinding (my fault for never having looked at the pads previously).
    • Tabs weren't bent over to hold the inner/outer lock nuts for the hub - it was just positioned between the two.
    • No anti-squeal shims are present and the clip wasn't there.
    • Hub/rotor mated surface was rusted - a bear to separate the two but got it.
  2. I have the new rotor mounted to the hub, have to hit AutoZone or other to pick up new seals (might as well get two before I move to the drivers side). Damn nice to see that larger rotor....looking forward to getting this done.
Q - since I don't have any of the anti-squeal shims, can I just put the new reman caliper together with my new 100-series pads sans shims?
 

NLXTACY

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Also, take a look at how the pads sit in the caliper then on the rotor. If the pads extend past the inner ring of the rotor material then I would recommend chamfering the pad to keep that material from hanging over. It will cause squeaking until that little sliver finaly breaks off. This does not effect all 100 series pads.
 

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