Brake fluid flush? (1 Viewer)

[KLF]

Hello, does anyone know off the top of their head what size tubing to attach to the bleeder plugs?

Also, approximately how much new fluid should I have on hand for doing the flush of just the lines and not full-on flush with Techstream? Is there a recommended brand of fluid other than OEM?

If you mean tubing for the bleeding container, I would think 1/4" or 3/16" ID would work. If you're making a bleeding jug, just get a few feet of each, it's pretty cheap if you can find a place that sells it by the foot.

A quart is probably plenty, if you are not having to refill the calipers. I talked with Ken at KNS Brakes (KNS Brakes) about this just the other day when I was ordering rotors and pads for my Miata, and although he sells fluid, he highly recommended Pentosin "Super DOT 4" fluid, which a lot of local auto parts stores sell. I was just in Advance Auto about an hour ago, just for this reason, and they only had one quart left, and it was behind the counter, I had to ask for it. Nothing like being in the store with a mask on, asking for the secret sauce... Not cheap ($16 a quart).

 

[TLC2013]

Excellent info here. Planning on tackling a brake and power steering fluid exchange this weekend, this thread has been super helpful.

 

[BigMF]

Excellent info here. Planning on tackling a brake and power steering fluid exchange this weekend, this thread has been super helpful.

Here's one for PS flush as well. The biggest challenge for me was getting the return line off the reservoir. The nipple is like 1.5" long. Takes a good bit of wiggling to get the hose detached. Also, something that I didn't see in the thread was the fact that you need to plug the nipple when you fill the res back up with fluid for the flush. Fortunately, I thought it through before pouring a lot of fluid in only to have it pour right back out, down the engine bay, and onto the driveway.

 

[TLC2013]

Here's one for PS flush as well. The biggest challenge for me was getting the return line off the reservoir. The nipple is like 1.5" long. Takes a good bit of wiggling to get the hose detached. Also, something that I didn't see in the thread was the fact that you need to plug the nipple when you fill the res back up with fluid for the flush. Fortunately, I thought it through before pouring a lot of fluid in only to have it pour right back out, down the engine bay, and onto the driveway.

Very cool thanks BigMF. Appreciate the tips!

 

[BigMF]

Not using Techstream flushes the lines only. Techstream allows one to energize the ABS block and flush any fluid in it (happens down in the lower part of the text below beginning with line "m".

Unless you make fluid move through the ABS (alternate - maybe panic stopping on wet grass?) you can't get a 100% flush. Here's what the manual says on the subject:
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.
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(l) Turn the Techstream on.

(m) Enter the following menus: Chassis / ABS/VSC/TRAC / Utility / Air Bleeding.
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.
.
(v) Clear the DTCs.
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.
.

I believe I follow all of this but the only parts that still sorta confuse me are the Techstream part and the DTCs.

1. I understand why you want to use Techstream to flush the ABS system but the FSM is not entirely clear (see lines L and M above). It says to turn Teachstream on and then enter a menu. I have not had the chance to connect and look at that menu yet so maybe I'm asking a stupid question. However, is there something you need to do once you enter that menu? Any selection to make or button to push? Perhaps it's obvious once you are in there but I don't want to get partway through the process and then not know what I'm supposed to do in Techstream.
2. Also, when I look in the FSM at the link provided for "Clear the DTCs", it's a little confusing as well. The first part talks about connecting a special Toyota tool (Diagnosis Check Wire) to a couple of terminals and of the DLC3 (which I assume is the same port where you connect an OBDII reader) and "read the DTCs":
   

It then goes on to say "DTC Check/Clear (Techstream)" Am I correct in my assumption that this means you can check/clear the DTCs via the tool OR via Techstream but not necessarily both?

I've seen other threads on here referring to stopping suddenly on a gravel road to activate the ABS and then going through the flush procedure again. Is that just a low-tech alternative to using Techstream and if so, how good is that option versus Techstream?

Just FYI, my fear/caution is with Techstream and not the mechanical aspects of the flush/bleed process. I've only connected to Techstream once to see if I could do it and therefore am completely new to it. I'm not afraid of tech and am very tech-savvy in general. However, that just means that I know that it takes a computer to REALLY screw things up. Am I overthinking it?

 

[LBridges]

I "think" you are over thinking it. I haven't done the ABS bleed on a 200 yet, but using Techstream on my 100, it leads you through the process (not with a lot of detail, but enough). You will have to make a selection once inside the submenu. You can use Techstream to clear any DTCs. I've never tried the SST to read or clear DTCs, but you are right in that it is the same OBDII connector under the dash. You are correct, the gravel road method is a low-tech method to get the ABS to function and move fluid through it's block.

 

[BigMF]

Soooo.....started but unable to finish. Before I started, I made sure I could connect Techstream and get to the menu mentioned above. Took a couple of tries but got there eventually.

Was able to flush the front two but ran into problems with the right rear plug. Needed a breaker bar to loosen it. Once it was loose, nothing would come out of the plug. Several full turns of the plug and nothing coming out whereas the front ones were maybe 1/4 turn before fluid started coming out. I was worried about unscrewing the plug entirely and air getting into the system so I tightened it back up before the plug came completely off.

I'm assuming that the bleeder plug is clogged/blocked in some way but perhaps it is supposed to loosen significantly more than the front ones. I did not attempt the other rear one because I figured it would be better to stop while I was ahead, so to speak and seek advice from the forum:

1. Am I correct in the assumption that the plug should have let fluid flow much sooner?
2. Should I replace with a new plug entirely and if so, should I get the "speed bleeders" I've seen mentioned?
   1. Assuming I need to replace the plug with an OEM or speed bleeder, what is the procedure there? I'm worried about taking the plug out and fluid just pouring out and a ton of air getting into the system. Also, not excited about the prospect of brake fluid going everywhere as I do a frantic swap of plugs and get the new one threaded in.

Last question: How do you know that the fresh fluid has made it through the lines? I couldn't tell for sure that the front ones had fresh fluid.

 

[TLC2013]

On my 2013 land cruiser I flushed my system this weekend. Planned on installing speed bleeders on the front but ( SB7100 ) they were too small, ordered the wrong ones I guess.
With the bleeder screw completely removed fluid trickled out and I had a rag handy to limit the fluid getting every where. Reinstalled the stock bleeders and bled the line, was surprised by how little air was in there even after having the bleeder screw completely removed. I hosed down the area and cleaned it up. As usual I seem to always make a big mess no matter how hard I try. Cardboard boxes under the work area are key.

 

[CharlieS]

Motive makes a good bottle setup that makes mess free brake bleeding easier. You can easily rig something up at home (I did for many decades) but these are made for the job. They work great in combination with a power bleeder.

Catch Bottle Instructions

Brake Bleeding Catch Bottle Kit (part 1820 and 1810) Thank you for purchasing the Motive Products Brake Bleeding Catch Bottle Kit. To use with the Power Bleeder™, connect the flexible tubing attached to the Catch Bottle Kit to the desired bleed nipple at the caliper. Check the vehicle...

www.motiveproducts.com

Depends how old and nasty the fluid is, but new stuff should be clear to slightly golden. You should be able to see the new stuff. The key is to get the air out.

Back when I had a race car, I alternated between ATE super blue and the gold stuff, so you could clearly see when you had flushed everything. I can't even find the superblue anymore...

You shouldn't have to turn the bleeders terribly far to get fluid moving.

You may be able to salvage the caliper. My standard practice in rust country is to replace calipers if bleeders are buggered (except for very costly calipers like on the Porsche).

I've used speed bleeders before (race car) and they have their place, but for a daily driver that you flush infrequently, I don't know if they're necessary. Power bleeding is so easy with a motive that I don't think they save much.

Also, maybe just habit, but I like to bleed diagonally opposite (furthest from) the master cylinder and work my way from furthest to nearest while flushing or bleeding.

 

[BigMF]

Motive makes a good bottle setup that makes mess free brake bleeding easier. You can easily rig something up at home (I did for many decades) but these are made for the job. They work great in combination with a power bleeder.

Catch Bottle Instructions

Brake Bleeding Catch Bottle Kit (part 1820 and 1810) Thank you for purchasing the Motive Products Brake Bleeding Catch Bottle Kit. To use with the Power Bleeder™, connect the flexible tubing attached to the Catch Bottle Kit to the desired bleed nipple at the caliper. Check the vehicle...

www.motiveproducts.com

Depends how old and nasty the fluid is, but new stuff should be clear to slightly golden. You should be able to see the new stuff. The key is to get the air out.

Back when I had a race car, I alternated between ATE super blue and the gold stuff, so you could clearly see when you had flushed everything. I can't even find the superblue anymore...

You shouldn't have to turn the bleeders terribly far to get fluid moving.

You may be able to salvage the caliper. My standard practice in rust country is to replace calipers if bleeders are buggered (except for very costly calipers like on the Porsche).

I've used speed bleeders before (race car) and they have their place, but for a daily driver that you flush infrequently, I don't know if they're necessary. Power bleeding is so easy with a motive that I don't think they save much.

Also, maybe just habit, but I like to bleed diagonally opposite (furthest from) the master cylinder and work my way from furthest to nearest while flushing or bleeding.

Thanks guys.

I looked for the Super Blue @CharlieS but could not find it either. I'll just flush enough to make sure that it gets the good stuff through the system.

Also, seeing how this is a daily driver and don't anticipate doing this all that often, I'll probably skip the speed bleeders unless they are the same price as an OEM one.

Lastly, I couldn't really justify the cost of the Motive + adaptor. I assume I'll only be doing this every couple of years (from what I read) and therefore don't really want to spend the money on a tool that I'll only use very infrequently. However, if the adaptor worked on both my LX and my wife's Highlander then it might be worth it but I believe they use different adaptors.

Thanks again guys!

 

[marques]

I think ATE Super blue was pulled off the market as the government finally realized (after many many years) that it was blue and not light amber... It will be very hard to find now.

I just did a complete brake fluid flush/bleed this weekend. You don't really need any kind of special tools for a typical flush - Techstream is only needed to bleed the air out of the ABS solenoids in the master cylinder. So, if you are OK with only flushing 98% of the fluid and otherwise don't have any air in the lines, all you need is a 10mm box wrench (preferably 6-point), some small clear tubing (~2 ft.), and an old 1-gal. empty milk jug to catch all the old fluid.

Start in the back. Don't put new fluid in the reservoir just yet. Put the 10mm wrench in place on the bleed nipple in such a way that you can open it about 1/4 of a turn. Put one end of the clear tubing on the bleed nipple and the other in the empty milk jug. Turn on the ignition. Open the bleed nipple 1/4 turn. Press the brake pedal down only a little bit. Fluid will be pumped thru and start to come out the caliper. Keep doing it until the brake fluid level in the reservoir is almost all the way down to the bottom (~1/2") and stop/close the bleed nipple. Now fill the reservoir with new fluid all the way up to the max. mark. You will need about a quart of fluid for this.

Go back to the same rear corner you were just flushing and flush some more until nice, bubble free, almost clear new fluid is visible coming out of the caliper on the clear tubing. Try to not run the pump continuously for over a minute. Close the bleed nipple, remove the clear tubing, replace the rubber cap on the nipple, and clean any brake fluid that may have dripped on the side of the caliper with some shop towels and/or a little brake cleaner spray. Don't worry about air getting back in between letting go off the brake pedal and closing the nipple a few seconds later; whatever minute amount of air that may come in thru the treads will go up and towards the milk jug, not pack in to the caliper.

Now do the other rear corner, except that you don't have to drain the entire reservoir this time; you already have fresh fluid in there. Flush enough until you see nice and very light color brake fluid come out with no bubbles. It should take a lot less fluid that the first corner. Check the fluid in the reservoir and keep adding to keep the level between the min and max lines. There is no need what so ever to pump the brake pedal when flushing the rear brakes; it's all done by the pump. Trying to pump the brakes while flushing the rear calipers can interfere with the process with less than satisfactory results.

The front brakes should be done last. This time you will need to pump the brake pedal to push the fluid thru. Keep the ignition on so you have the brake booster helping you. Again, you only need to open the bleed nipple about 1/4" turn. Manually press the brake pedal all the way down, let if come back up (you can help it up if you want), push it all the way down again, let is come up... and repeat about 10 times total. Keep an aye on the brake fluid reservoir and make sure it doesn't run out of fluid. There is no need to close the bleed nipple as you let the brake pedal come back up unless you have A LOT of air i the lines. Hardly any fluid will be sucked back into the caliper when the brake pedal comes up with the open bleed nipple. And what little may be sucked back in is the same fluid in the tubing - not air. You should have nice new clear bubble free fluid coming out of the front caliper at this point. Close the nipple, remove the tubing, put the cap back on the nipple, and clean up whatever fluid may have leaked on the side of the caliper.

If you do have a ton of air in the lines, you may need to close the nipples before letting the brake pedal come back up 2-3 times to make sure you get most of the air out of the lines, then you can just keep pumping without pausing to close the nipples in between pumps.

Now repeat for the last front corner and top off the fluid in the reservoir. That's it. You may go thru a quart and a half of fluid, so make sure you have two before you start.