Brake fluid flush? (1 Viewer)

[Docboy]

2009 LX570 has 91k miles. Not sure when last brake fluid had a flush, bought it at a Lexus dealership at 85k. No complaints with brake performance, though I did notice at time of purchase last year the dealership did recommended a brake fluid flush.

I took pics today of the brake fluid container after coming back from a weekend trip.

How does the brake fluid look? Would you recommend a flush? And what kind of costs am I looking at, $100 give or take?

 

[John E Davies]

That's pretty gross, it should have been flushed three times in that time period, and yours looks as if it is the original fill. I would flush it sooner than later. I have no idea of cost, but it is easy to do. I use a pressure pot with a Toyota master cylinder adapter cap.

John Davies
Spokane WA

 

[SWUtah]

Should flush every 2-3 years or 30k miles. Lexus would cost you $100.

 

[John E Davies]

I wonder why the dealer did not do the flush as a pre-sale maintenance item? I also wonder what else they did not do. You need to get your 200 thoroughly checked out by an unbiased shop. It probably needs cooling system, transmission, power steering, transfer case and axle service too, unless you have proof those were done. And check your filters. The cabin one is a 60 second job.

Which Lexus dealer in WA did you buy from? There are some good Land Cruiser shops in Puget Sound, Torfab in downtown Everett topping the list.

John Davies
Spokane WA

 

[Docboy]

I wonder why the dealer did not do the flush as a pre-sale maintenance item? I also wonder what else they did not do. You need to get your 200 thoroughly checked out by an unbiased shop. It probably needs cooling system, transmission, power steering, transfer case and axle service too, unless you have proof those were done. And check your filters. The cabin one is a 60 second job.

Which Lexus dealer in WA did you buy from? There are some good Land Cruiser shops in Puget Sound, Torfab in downtown Everett topping the list.

John Davies
Spokane WA

Not sure why flush was not done. I was just browsing through the inspection the dealership did last year prior to the sale last night, and saw that the brake fluid flush (along with wiper blade replacement) were recommended; everything else passed their "inspection." Dealership replaced a drive belt, fixed a bad connection to the fogs/parking sensors; no other maintenance items documented on the sale papers or carfax. In hindsight I should have negotiated the flush in the purchase.

I bought it a Lexus of Seattle. Can you recommend a shop on the Eastside? I live near Bellevue. There's a NAPA center nearby I'm getting an estimate from, and can have them take a look at the items you mentioned.

What other maintenance items are recommended?

 

[Docboy]

Should flush every 2-3 years or 30k miles. Lexus would cost you $100.

I called the local Lexus dealership. They wanted $185!

 

[SWUtah]

I called the local Lexus dealership. They wanted $185!

But they'll give you a loaner car and cookies

 

[Docboy]

But they'll give you a loaner car and cookies

True. Totally forgot about the cookies.

 

[SWUtah]

The only reason I always have Lexus maintain my Lexus is if anything was done improperly or there's any kind of problem under warranty or not under warranty they can't say they didn't do it. Plus I found if things are done correctly there is not much of a difference in price in Austin Texas the Toyota dealership cost just as much but you didn't get a loaner car and you didn't get a cookie

 

[John E Davies]

I bought it a Lexus of Seattle. Can you recommend a shop on the Eastside? I live near Bellevue. There's a NAPA center nearby I'm getting an estimate from, and can have them take a look at the items you mentioned.

What other maintenance items are recommended?

I don't know any East Side Cruiser specialists, though any of the non-dealer Toyota shops should be able to do routine servicing. Just don't expect them to know your 200 inside and out.

Other than the items I mentioned, a good engine, chassis and drivetrain look over, not a complete pre-purchase inspection, would be a great idea. Have them look for fluid leaks and signs of a previous collision.

For me, a dealer visit is an absolute last resort, I neither trust them nor believe they know what they are doing....

John Davies
Spkane WA

 

[Cruisin911]

Get yourself one of these. Shouldn't take more than an hour to do it. Hardest part will be to jack up the wheel and remove each one.

https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Produ...05659192&sr=8-2&keywords=motive+brake+bleeder

 

[John E Davies]

Get yourself one of these. Shouldn't take more than an hour to do it. Hardest part will be to jack up the wheel and remove each one.

https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Produ...05659192&sr=8-2&keywords=motive+brake+bleeder

That is a good bleeder, I use one, but there is no need to jack up our remove wheels, as long as you are OK with lying on the ground under your truck, on a big piece of cardboard.

The MF bleeder requires a Toyota adapter for the master cylinder. You can use the supplied universal one but it clamps down using chains and j hooks and is a pure PITA to use.

John Davies
Spokane WA

 

[Cruisin911]

There are so many times I wish I had a lift in my garage. With how much I work on my cars, you'd think I'd be able to justify it by now...

 

[sdnative]

Get yourself one of these. Shouldn't take more than an hour to do it. Hardest part will be to jack up the wheel and remove each one.

Amazon product ASIN B0002KM5L0

That is a good bleeder, I use one, but there is no need to jack up our remove wheels, as long as you are OK with lying on the ground under your truck, on a big piece of cardboard.

The MF bleeder requires a Toyota adapter for the master cylinder. You can use the supplied universal one but it clamps down using chains and j hooks and is a pure PITA to use.

John Davies
Spokane WA

The Motive Products applications guide lists the 0101 bleeder for Toyota, but I did not see it on Amazon. Am I understanding you correctly that you use the model 0100 linked? Or is there another one you recommend?

What Toyota adapter do you recommend?

I have let a shop do the brake system flush in the past, but I would like to do it myself this time. Pretty easy to do? Just pressurize the MC and open the bleed valve at the calipers one at a time until the fluid runs clear? Is order important (I imagine not since they should be independent circuits)?

Thanks!

 

[KLF]

What Toyota adapter do you recommend?

This is the one I have: Power Probe I bought it several years ago, but I have to admit I haven't actually used it yet. I assure you I didn't pay $80 for it, the price must have jumped up for some reason. I originally bought it for my '11 that had a lot of miles, but then traded for a '15 with much fewer miles, the fluid still looks good but I will probably do a flush this spring. I have a home-built pressure bleeder, I need to find the adapter for that quick-connect fitting. Here it is installed:

I have let a shop do the brake system flush in the past, but I would like to do it myself this time. Pretty easy to do? Just pressurize the MC and open the bleed valve at the calipers one at a time until the fluid runs clear? Is order important (I imagine not since they should be independent circuits)?

I seem to remember that there is a step that is recommended that requires connecting Techstream and forcing a pump to run, I need to do the research on this. Hopefully somebody will chime in that knows.

There are so many times I wish I had a lift in my garage. With how much I work on my cars, you'd think I'd be able to justify it by now...

Love my Quickjack! (yes, I know this post is over 2 years ago)

 

[LBridges]

This is the one I have: Power Probe I bought it several years ago, but I have to admit I haven't actually used it yet. I assure you I didn't pay $80 for it, the price must have jumped up for some reason. I originally bought it for my '11 that had a lot of miles, but then traded for a '15 with much fewer miles, the fluid still looks good but I will probably do a flush this spring. I have a home-built pressure bleeder, I need to find the adapter for that quick-connect fitting. Here it is installed:


I seem to remember that there is a step that is recommended that requires connecting Techstream and forcing a pump to run, I need to do the research on this. Hopefully somebody will chime in that knows.

Love my Quickjack! (yes, I know this post is over 2 years ago)

Not using Techstream flushes the lines only. Techstream allows one to energize the ABS block and flush any fluid in it (happens down in the lower part of the text below beginning with line "m".

Unless you make fluid move through the ABS (alternate - maybe panic stopping on wet grass?) you can't get a 100% flush. Here's what the manual says on the subject:

1. BLEED BRAKE LINE

(a) Turn the engine switch on (IG).

(b) Remove the brake master cylinder reservoir filler cap assembly.

(c) Add brake fluid until the fluid level is between the MIN and MAX lines of the reservoir.

(d) Repeatedly depress the brake pedal and bleed air from the bleeder plug of the front disc brake cylinder RH.

(e) Repeat the step above until the air is completely bled, and then tighten the bleeder plug while depressing the brake pedal.

Torque:

11 N·m {110 kgf·cm, 8 ft·lbf}

(f) Bleed the air from the bleeder plug of the front disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.

(g) With the brake pedal depressed, loosen the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder RH, continue to hold the brake pedal and allow brake fluid to be drained from the bleeder plug while the pump motor operates.

HINT:

• Air is bled as the pump motor operates while the brake pedal is being depressed.
• Be sure to release the brake pedal to stop the motor after approximately 100 seconds of continuous operation.
• As brake fluid is continuously drained while the pump operates, it is not necessary to repeatedly depress the brake pedal.

(h) When there is no more air in the brake fluid, tighten the bleeder plug, and then release the brake pedal.

Torque:

11 N·m {110 kgf·cm, 8 ft·lbf}

(i) Bleed the air from the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.

(j) Turn the engine switch off (IG).

(k) Inspect for brake fluid leaks.

(l) Check and adjust the brake fluid level.

2. BLEED BRAKE SYSTEM

CAUTION:

If air is bled without using the Techstream, damage or accidents may result. Therefore, always use the Techstream when bleeding air.

(a) Turn the engine switch on (IG).

(b) Remove the brake master cylinder reservoir filler cap assembly.

(c) Add brake fluid until the fluid level is between the MIN and MAX lines of the reservoir.

(d) Repeatedly depress the brake pedal and bleed air from the bleeder plug of the front disc brake cylinder RH.

(e) Repeat the step above until the air is completely bled, and then tighten the bleeder plug while depressing the brake pedal.

Torque:

11 N·m {110 kgf·cm, 8 ft·lbf}

(f) Bleed the air from the bleeder plug of the front disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.

(g) With the brake pedal depressed, loosen the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder RH, continue to hold the brake pedal and allow brake fluid to be drained from the bleeder plug while the pump motor operates.

HINT:

• Air is bled as the pump motor operates while the brake pedal is being depressed.
• Be sure to release the brake pedal to stop the motor after approximately 100 seconds of continuous operation.
• As brake fluid is continuously drained while the pump operates, it is not necessary to repeatedly depress the brake pedal.

(h) When there is no more air in the brake fluid, tighten the bleeder plug, and then release the brake pedal.

Torque:

11 N·m {110 kgf·cm, 8 ft·lbf}

(i) Bleed the air from the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.

(j) Turn the engine switch off and connect the Techstream to the DLC3.

(k) Turn the engine switch on (IG).

(l) Turn the Techstream on.

(m) Enter the following menus: Chassis / ABS/VSC/TRAC / Utility / Air Bleeding.

NOTICE:

To protect the solenoid from overheating, the solenoid operation stops automatically in 4 seconds, and then the solenoid will not respond to commands for an additional 20 seconds.

(n) Repeatedly depress the brake pedal several times, and then, with the brake pedal depressed, turn FR Line on and bleed air.

HINT:

Air returns to the brake master cylinder reservoir together with the brake fluid and is bled from the brake system.

NOTICE:

• As it is not possible to visually confirm that air is being bled, repeat this step 10 times.
• Do not loosen the bleeder plug.

(o) Turn FL Line on and bleed air using the same procedures as for FR Line.

(p) Turn RR Line on, loosen the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder RH and drain brake fluid.

HINT:

• Do not depress the brake pedal.
• As brake fluid is automatically drained while the pump and solenoid operate, it is not necessary to operate the brake pedal.

(q) Repeat the step above until the air is completely bled, and then tighten the bleeder plug.

Torque:

11 N·m {110 kgf·cm, 8 ft·lbf}

(r) Turn RL Line on and bleed air from the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.

(s) Turn the Techstream off and turn the engine switch off.

(t) Inspect for brake fluid leaks.

(u) Check and adjust the brake fluid level.

(v) Clear the DTCs.

 

[SWUtah]

I’ve always felt the time and climate were more important than mileage if you live in Nevada and it’s really dry you’re not gonna get much moisture but if you live in Florida and it’s very humid and only drive 8000 miles a year probably need to do it every two years

 

[Trukk]

On my other cars, I like to swap between ATE Super Blue and ATE Type 200. It is DOT4, and has good specs, the best being that it retains a high boiling point even when old with water absorbed. If it works well on the racetrack, I think it will be fine on a truck.

Because SuperBlue is BLUE, it is very easy to bleed the system, and see when "fresh" fluid has made it to the caliper. Next flush, you switch back to Type 200, which is amber. Note: I think they stopped selling SuperBlue in the US a while back as it was not longer DOT approved, because it was BLUE. It is Type200 with just some dye in it (which apparently is the cause of the DOT issues). It can still be ordered online no issues.

Please note that my truck is brand new, so it will be a while before I do this. Unsure the specifics on the brake fluid used in the 200, so do your research first.

 

[04UZJ100]

Is there a filter/plug preventing you from sticking a fluid removal plunger in there - sucking most of it out, and bleeding the brakes to get the rest?

 

[BigMF]

Hello, does anyone know off the top of their head what size tubing to attach to the bleeder plugs?

Also, approximately how much new fluid should I have on hand for doing the flush of just the lines and not full-on flush with Techstream? Is there a recommended brand of fluid other than OEM?