Builds Brady Bunch FZJ 80 New Project Build

[BradyBunchFJ80]

I've just purchased my very first 1994 FZJ 80 Toyota Land Cruiser and I'm super stoked to get started on this new project to turn this thing into a solid driver and overland rig. NOTE: I'm a rookie LC owner and learning its nuances as I go. I love the FZJ 80's stout looks and solid reputation. Looking forward to learning from everyone here, documenting the good and the bad and getting this thing looking like the rigs I had overseas. Speaking of the bad:

I Picked up my "new" Cruiser for $4600 with 159K on the odometer. Interior is cloth but overall I grade the interior a 9/10 for condition. The rig has been sitting for over a year not driven and came with a decent maintenance history. The drive home via one of our ferries here in WA state was hilarious.

Problem #1 - Front steering knuckles blew their load all over the axles and inner side of the brakes. Definitely need a rebuild (moving forward here I just received a quote from Toyota to rebuild the front knuckles all with seals, bearings and new rotors since they will be off, for $1940 (1200 labor, rest in parts)). I think I am going to do a little searching on alternatives.

Problem #2 - On start with the A/C off the belts squeal like a stuck Alabama pig. Once I dropped in D squeal stopped.... Made a stop one mile after the buy to get gas and after a fill, restarted the rig, popped in Drive and the thing begins to crawl forward like it was starting in 2nd gear despite flooring the SOB. Moved at 5 mph and couldn't climb a damn speed bump to save my life. I look at the speedo and sure as anything the trip meter and speedo are inop, RPM gauge working fine however. I had to drop the thing in L and then move back up to Drive and now it cycles through the gears and go's fine. Cruise control is also inop.

Lucky me - Stopped by a pick and pull yard on the way to pick up gray leather jump seats off a wrecked 95 LC. They're a bit dry but a good restore candidate. Cant beat 50 dollars for the pair.

Problem #3 - Get the LC home, power off and I've got a steady radiator fluid leak flowing down the back/middle of the block and also down the underside of the drivers side area along the frame rail. Suspect the PHH but not sure.

Problem #4 - Many of the vacuum hoses look shot along with some select others. I learned all about the PHH here (quoted $300 for replace at a local LC specialty shop)

Fluids looked low so as a safety measure I went ahead and replaced all fluids at Jiffy lube until I can iron out the real issues.

Flush and fill Oil
Flush and fill radiator (previous fluid was cloudy so didn't want to have it sit any longer than need be)
Flush and fill tranny
Drain/Fill diff and XFer case
New wipers Front/back
New radiator cap

$800 dollars but after military discount ended up $600. (Learned I should have used Toyota Red Antifreeze. Shame on me).

Took the LC to Toyota for a diagnosis and they didn't get far. (See quote on knuckle rebuild up front and Rotor replace).

- Toyota identified a radiator fluid leak at the #1 bypass valve. Said it would need to be replaced. Because they have to remove the manifold to get to it and the PHH they will have to remove most all other hoses in the area so low and behold they said they will have to remove/replace all hoses (although I disagree not all hoses are in crap shape, mostly the upper vac hoses. For bypass hoses, evap hoses, intake hose and radiator hose purchase in parts and in labor I got a quote for 599.99 total! Holy SH&%

- Toyota also says there is a slight leak in the radiator so that too should be replaced. Parts and labor = 1133.99. OMFG.

- They identified a very slight tranny, diff and oil pan leak but no quote on a reseal.

- Toyota identified an open circuit in the speedometer circuit causing the speedo and odometer to stop working. Guessing this could be the cruise control issue as well.

Toyota suggested I not spend the money and encouraged me to dump the 6 and do a V8 engine swap. Taken aback by that but Im determined to bring this thing back to its glory.

Parts ordered so far:

- Used but operable instrument cluster with 155K on it. Im wondering now whether that will fix the Cruise Control issue. Shot in the dark but will see.
- LED gauge cluster lights
- 10 Feet of blue silicon vacuum tubing, 3.5 mm ID with 60 psi pressure rating.
- Left rear (used) fender flare to replace damaged one I have. Going to Plasti Dip all fender flares black anyway.
- Hood lift supports, $25 dollars. Worth not getting my head smacked again.

SO.... long post but I wanted to kick off the fun, the screw ups and the lessons off the bat. Any opinions on the swap? The engine runs smoothly and is solid so im scratching my head on that. Hoping the transmission crawl issue may be a vacuum leak or a solenoid? Going to work on the vacuum hoses tomorrow and find a shop to do the knuckle rebuild. Never done it before and think it may be out of my wheel house. Found a kit for $219 with made in japan bearings and power stop rotors for $183. Was told I have to remove the manifold to get to the #1 bypass hose that has a leak in the metal portion. Complete hose replace doable or worth having a shop do it? Im going to go ahead and throw new belts on hoping that will get rid of the squeal.

Any advice or I told you so's are always appreciated. I'll post pics tomorrow of where I am starting. Cant I just get through this in a day and go straight to ARB front bumper, OME lift, new wheels, tires.... blah blah. I'll get it done!

 

[Tedward]

You might want to tackle much of that work on your own.
You can leave the intake manifold on and just remove the throttle body.
I say this would allow you to do the phh (#2 bypass hose) and the pipe with one new piece of hose. You don't need the pipe, it's easier to just use one length of hose there. As well as replace the other heater hose under hiding nearby. The other one is the #1 bypass and goes from block to bottom of the throttle body. As you put the throttle body back on replace all of the vacuum hoses/evap hoses.

Do the drive belts and radiator hoses yourself with OEM when you flush the system with water and replace the radiator and thermostat. Also, replace the heater control valve on the firewall and maybe bypass the rear heat at that time.
Dont bother with the Toyota red coolant, Prestone or whatever is fine.

Maybe pay to have the knuckle worked on if you dont want to do that. Though you may want to do it on your own as well. Not rocket science there but first go will take some time.

What ever your gonna do has been done and thoroughly documented on this site. Spend a lot of time searching here and and making plans on what to do.
Of course you'll need a working trans.
Wow, you need a plan of attack. Others will likely help you determine where to start.
A factory service manual very helpful too.
Good luck

 

[IronCladLou]

Step back, take a deep breath and start searching/reading threads relative to your maintenance needs. You can pretty much do everything quoted above for less than $1k in parts and a couple weekends of work. MUD has you covered.

 

[LS1FJ40]

If you’re going to pay the dealership or anyone else to change hoses and such you better have deep pockets.

My two cents: if you are going to go “overlanding” you better know how to change a belt, hose, do minor work or you are never going to feel comfortable or confident in a 25+ year old rig far from where AAA can come give you a tow.

As was mentioned, take a deep breath and relax. I just did my front axle rebuild and replaced the rotors and calipers while I was in there. Total cost was about $400 and my weekend. I consider myself a 1.5-2 mechanic (mainly because of all of the help and expertise I get from Mud).

These are tractors man. Simple. They are great “overland” vehicles because they are so simple and reliable.

So, busy open the savings or learn to turn a wrench. Your choice.

 

[lumbee1]

Before you buy anything else, park the Cruiser and start researching. Make a list of problems for example the PHH. Find all the possible solutions for fixing it and create a list of parts. This method has two benefits: A) you will fix a huge problem for significantly less than what you would pay someone and 2) you will learn a tremendous amount about the vehicle. In the future you might find another Cruiser stranded with an issue (not likely) and you can quickly diagnose the problem.

We were all newbies at one time to Land Cruisers. I've had mine coming up on 5 years and LOVE the vehicle. I just completed a regear to 4.88's and a full axle service. The regear of the 3rds is complex so I left that to experts but I did the front and rear axles myself. Parts for the axles were $200. Labor and knowledge were free. BTW, there is a PDF copy of the Full Service Manual for 1996 Land Cruiser floating around on the internet.

 

[BradyBunchFJ80]

Thanks Lumbee! I've been doing a boat load of research essentially saving threads on here to a favorites folder. This forum has been extremely invaluable and for the most part spells everything out in the how to's and what issues are common, etc. I just ordered the front end rebuild kit with Japanese bearings and OEM seals for $219. I added extended brake lines and new spindle wheel bearing nut kit. Im going to definitely try tackling this rebuild myself... never done it but like most here say its my chance to learn. Im sure a whole day job for most will be a weekend job for me the first time but that's part of it. Thanks for the tip on the service manual. I'll give a search and post the link for it if I find it.

 

[LS1FJ40]

Thanks Lumbee! I've been doing a boat load of research essentially saving threads on here to a favorites folder. This forum has been extremely invaluable and for the most part spells everything out in the how to's and what issues are common, etc. I just ordered the front end rebuild kit with Japanese bearings and OEM seals for $219. I added extended brake lines and new spindle wheel bearing nut kit. Im going to definitely try tackling this rebuild myself... never done it but like most here say its my chance to learn. Im sure a whole day job for most will be a weekend job for me the first time but that's part of it. Thanks for the tip on the service manual. I'll give a search and post the link for it if I find it.

Did you order the kit from @cruiseroutfit ? If you did there are pretty good directions with it.

I just tackled this this past weekend. It took me about 18-20 hrs. I also did the rotors and calipers at the same time.

It’s messy AF. But it’s not overly difficult. If you run in to a snag, message me and you can call me.

 

[BradyBunchFJ80]

Thanks to everyone for the info (LS1, Lumbee, Tedward and IronClad)! I have absolutely no intention on having the dealer do any work unless it is way above my capability. If found some really great resources on hose changes on you tube so I am going to start there. I used the dealer as a method to just do a diagnosis so I had a place to start Finding MUD was one of the reasons I decided to pick this rig up based on the sheer volume of info and amount of help offered here. While I wait on the arrival of the front end rebuild kit I started tackling removal of some surface rust under the carpet in the back before I mount the jump seats. Wire brush and some rust kill did the job. Used some dynamat a friend gave me to line the back and inner fender walls. I just received some ugly blue vacuum hose as well so im going to knock that out today. Then on to researching those recommended hoses (part #'s) and hopefully a video tutorial on the PHH (im going to use a silicon version with constant tension brackets (just ordered). Quick note: I just took the LC out for a short jaunt and with the AC off the truck was running low on RPM's and finally died at one stop light after braking. Truck started right back up again. Perhaps an adjustment needed on the throttle cable? I haven't tuned her up yet so that is on the list too.

 

[BradyBunchFJ80]

LS1 ~ Actually Ordered the kit from low range offroad Toyota FJ80 Land Cruiser Knuckle Rebuild Service Kit with Japanese Wheel Bearings I didn't order the rotors and calipers yet. Calipers were replaced (according to records I got when I bought the LC) about 30K miles ago in 2005 by les schwab. I can definitely feel a pulse in the rotor under braking so think the rotors are warped anyway. Front pads are new with 10 miles on them. Do you recommend a caliper replace as well or only if needed? I'll check cruiser outfit for parts. I've seen a lot of chatter here about OEM rotors versus drilled & slotted versions. Thoughts before I order rotors?

 

[FJP971]

Welcome to the hurt. Like was said, do as much as you can yourself. I would research the silicon hoses before installing, especially the PHH as it's a pain to go back in there. I've read they weep a lot. Gates or OEM is what most use.

 

[Kaninja]

Welcome to the hurt. Like was said, do as much as you can yourself. I would research the silicon hoses before installing, especially the PHH as it's a pain to go back in there. I've read they weep a lot. Gates or OEM is what most use.

X2 on the Gates. Good stuff.

 

[Tedward]

You get a check engine light with the stall?
If so, find out what code/codes the cel is on for.

 

[LS1FJ40]

Stall is likely the TPS

 

[ccslider]

Congrats on the truck. That's low miles, that being said it sounds like it may need some freshing up.

The low range kit is good. I would recommend valveoline pallidium grease from napa, about 8 tubes. You don't want to run out mid rebuild.
There is a great thread about how to do the rebuild.
**One important thing is to torque the wheel bearings correctly, the fsm has the wrong value.

@cruiseroutfitters has everything you need.

I would fix the immediate issues; radiator, hoses etc. Don't stress out about it just start picking away at it. A list usually is a good idea.

You can search for the fsm and find it online, that will answer alot of your questions.

People have switched to green antifreeze but they usually do a flush with water. So if you want go ahead, perfect time if you change hoses. The fuel filter is right by the phh too. They should call it the pff because it's a pain in the ass.

As far as the running poorly, alot of that is probably the rotting vacuum lines. Check the air inlet tube from the throttle body to intake manifold make sure there are no cracks or leaks. Any un metered air will cause it to run poor. This is also a good time to clean the air flow meter with the proper mass air flow spray cleaner.

Just a big warning for you, be prepared to be addicted to land cruisers.

 

[LS1FJ40]

LS1 ~ Actually Ordered the kit from low range offroad Toyota FJ80 Land Cruiser Knuckle Rebuild Service Kit with Japanese Wheel Bearings I didn't order the rotors and calipers yet. Calipers were replaced (according to records I got when I bought the LC) about 30K miles ago in 2005 by les schwab. I can definitely feel a pulse in the rotor under braking so think the rotors are warped anyway. Front pads are new with 10 miles on them. Do you recommend a caliper replace as well or only if needed? I'll check cruiser outfit for parts. I've seen a lot of chatter here about OEM rotors versus drilled & slotted versions. Thoughts before I order rotors?

I replaced my calipers and rotors at the same time. Both were 26+ years old. The rotors were warped or grooved. Figured I didn’t want to do it again. The NAPA Eclipse rotors and calipers are good and reasonably priced.

 

[JCruse]

I would like to add that I had a local, no specialty at all shop, do the phh and egr vsv with out removing the manifold.

 

[RFB]

I've just purchased my very first 1994 FZJ 80 Toyota Land Cruiser and I'm super stoked to get started on this new project to turn this thing into a solid driver and overland rig. NOTE: I'm a rookie LC owner and learning its nuances as I go. I love the FZJ 80's stout looks and solid reputation. Looking forward to learning from everyone here, documenting the good and the bad and getting this thing looking like the rigs I had overseas. Speaking of the bad:

I Picked up my "new" Cruiser for $4600 with 159K on the odometer. Interior is cloth but overall I grade the interior a 9/10 for condition. The rig has been sitting for over a year not driven and came with a decent maintenance history. The drive home via one of our ferries here in WA state was hilarious.

Problem #1 - Front steering knuckles blew their load all over the axles and inner side of the brakes. Definitely need a rebuild (moving forward here I just received a quote from Toyota to rebuild the front knuckles all with seals, bearings and new rotors since they will be off, for $1940 (1200 labor, rest in parts)). I think I am going to do a little searching on alternatives.

Problem #2 - On start with the A/C off the belts squeal like a stuck Alabama pig. Once I dropped in D squeal stopped.... Made a stop one mile after the buy to get gas and after a fill, restarted the rig, popped in Drive and the thing begins to crawl forward like it was starting in 2nd gear despite flooring the SOB. Moved at 5 mph and couldn't climb a damn speed bump to save my life. I look at the speedo and sure as anything the trip meter and speedo are inop, RPM gauge working fine however. I had to drop the thing in L and then move back up to Drive and now it cycles through the gears and go's fine. Cruise control is also inop.

Lucky me - Stopped by a pick and pull yard on the way to pick up gray leather jump seats off a wrecked 95 LC. They're a bit dry but a good restore candidate. Cant beat 50 dollars for the pair.

Problem #3 - Get the LC home, power off and I've got a steady radiator fluid leak flowing down the back/middle of the block and also down the underside of the drivers side area along the frame rail. Suspect the PHH but not sure.

Problem #4 - Many of the vacuum hoses look shot along with some select others. I learned all about the PHH here (quoted $300 for replace at a local LC specialty shop)

Fluids looked low so as a safety measure I went ahead and replaced all fluids at Jiffy lube until I can iron out the real issues.

Flush and fill Oil
Flush and fill radiator (previous fluid was cloudy so didn't want to have it sit any longer than need be)
Flush and fill tranny
Drain/Fill diff and XFer case
New wipers Front/back
New radiator cap

$800 dollars but after military discount ended up $600. (Learned I should have used Toyota Red Antifreeze. Shame on me).

Took the LC to Toyota for a diagnosis and they didn't get far. (See quote on knuckle rebuild up front and Rotor replace).

- Toyota identified a radiator fluid leak at the #1 bypass valve. Said it would need to be replaced. Because they have to remove the manifold to get to it and the PHH they will have to remove most all other hoses in the area so low and behold they said they will have to remove/replace all hoses (although I disagree not all hoses are in crap shape, mostly the upper vac hoses. For bypass hoses, evap hoses, intake hose and radiator hose purchase in parts and in labor I got a quote for 599.99 total! Holy SH&%

- Toyota also says there is a slight leak in the radiator so that too should be replaced. Parts and labor = 1133.99. OMFG.

- They identified a very slight tranny, diff and oil pan leak but no quote on a reseal.

- Toyota identified an open circuit in the speedometer circuit causing the speedo and odometer to stop working. Guessing this could be the cruise control issue as well.

Toyota suggested I not spend the money and encouraged me to dump the 6 and do a V8 engine swap. Taken aback by that but Im determined to bring this thing back to its glory.

Parts ordered so far:

- Used but operable instrument cluster with 155K on it. Im wondering now whether that will fix the Cruise Control issue. Shot in the dark but will see.
- LED gauge cluster lights
- 10 Feet of blue silicon vacuum tubing, 3.5 mm ID with 60 psi pressure rating.
- Left rear (used) fender flare to replace damaged one I have. Going to Plasti Dip all fender flares black anyway.
- Hood lift supports, $25 dollars. Worth not getting my head smacked again.

SO.... long post but I wanted to kick off the fun, the screw ups and the lessons off the bat. Any opinions on the swap? The engine runs smoothly and is solid so im scratching my head on that. Hoping the transmission crawl issue may be a vacuum leak or a solenoid? Going to work on the vacuum hoses tomorrow and find a shop to do the knuckle rebuild. Never done it before and think it may be out of my wheel house. Found a kit for $219 with made in japan bearings and power stop rotors for $183. Was told I have to remove the manifold to get to the #1 bypass hose that has a leak in the metal portion. Complete hose replace doable or worth having a shop do it? Im going to go ahead and throw new belts on hoping that will get rid of the squeal.

Any advice or I told you so's are always appreciated. I'll post pics tomorrow of where I am starting. Cant I just get through this in a day and go straight to ARB front bumper, OME lift, new wheels, tires.... blah blah. I'll get it done!

Heres the deal had jeeps my whole life mostly, got a land cruiser a year and ahalf ago, NEVER owned or knew anyone that owned and NEVER worked on them. Ive done a lot I mean a lot of shiite myslelf because again if your going to get lost offgrid you must know how to fix it, MUD has you covered (mostly) and get a FSM and metric tools

 

[on3i11s]

Everyone else has pretty much got ya covered but I would also recommend changing out the PHH neighbor (FHH??) since it is apparently a little more complicated m than the PHH. I overlooked the hose when replacing the PHH and regret it all the time time...thank god mine seems to be hanging in there so far. Might as well knock them both out at the same time. Also change out your thermostat/gaskets

Pesky Heater Hose Neighbor