Pesky Heater Hose Neighbor

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Oct 4, 2013
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Long time lurker but this is my first post. I have a white 1996 fzj80 with about 235k on the clock. its been great so far. i got it a few years ago and it is my daily. I do plan to wheel it a some point but right now i just need it to not break as I recently went back to school and funds are less than usual. I do love this truck.
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I have removed the fenders flares running boards and roof rack and did the monster liner with color matched white tint over the areas. I have done the PHH and recharged the air myself along with a lot of other little stuff. I try to do what i can myself but I am learning how to work on cars as i go. I have a new leak that appears to be coming from the heater hose to the left of the PHH. You can see my repair in this picture and the other leaking hose to the left on the other side of the 2 bolts.

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The problem is that the top of this hose seems to run up to the top below either the throttle body or the intake manifold. Has anyone replaced this one before? I have searched but can't find anything other than the PHH repair stuff. If I do need to remove the throttle body i think I saw a thread on that but i want to make sure i am barking up the right tree. Here is another picture taken from the top. You can see the blue tape i put on the hose between the intake manifold pipes to the right of the center bolt there. Anyone have experience with this one? Can I just remove the throttle cable pulleys? What else should I replace while I am pulling stuff off in this area? I assume i at least need a gasket if i pull off the TB. I do not have the FSM but it is on order.

Thanks all.

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I believe that is the FHH. Recall some saying it is worse than replacement of the PHH. (I have not done that job, just going off memory)
 
People go on and on about the PHH, but that bypass hose is more fun! IIRC, we use 5/16" heater hose, takes some wriggling, but have done it with the throttle body on, easier with it off.
 
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Thanks. i am going to try it without removing the TB but i ordered a gasket for the TB just in case. So if i do the PHH and FHH and the rear heater bypass I keep seeing on here have i shored up my cooling system pretty well?
 
I replaced that little hose a few weeks ago due a crack just behind the throttle body, spraying coolant around back there.

It supplies hot water to heat up the throttle body. It goes into a nipple on the back side of the throttle body, passes through and comes out another nipple on the front, to a short (about 4") straight hose, same size, and onto that long thin metal tube that wraps around the front of the head and into the water pump housing.

3/8" like Kevin said.

Recommend adding some extra slack length to it.

Also, the short straight front side hose is actually what makes pulling the throttle body a pain. Otherwise, it only takes about 10 minutes. I made that into a full 360 degree loop so the throttle body could be unbolted and pulled aside without the hassle of not enough room, stiff hose over the nipple ridge, hose clamps, dripping coolant, etc. BTW, the 360 loop would be much better as a 270 loop, if the metal tube was bent straight upward instead of pointing directly back at the throttle body nipple and only a couple of inches of straight tube. There is nowhere to pull. With a loop you can grab a handful of hose and tug.

Done it all a bunch of times and have not yet replaced the throttle body gasket, assuming it didn't get kinked. It's metal and hangs on a couple of guide pins on the manifold inlet, to hold it in place while you get the throttle body back on.

Throttle body dismount steps:
1) Pop open 3 air cleaner latches.
2) Unscrew air cleaner wingnut.
3) Pop throttle cable out of retainer on rubber air intake hose.
4) Loosen hose clamps at both ends of rubber air intake hose.
5) Lift air cleaner lid a bit to give slack room and pull rubber air cleaner hose out.
6) Pull off the 2 throttle position sensor electrical connectors
7) (Optional) Remove throttle/cruise/transmission cables, which is a hassle. Skip it if you can leave attached.
8) Fight with front side throttle body coolant hose, or maybe you need to do step 9) to get some hose slack?
If you have a loop of hose, no fighting. Leave it attached and you can pull it aside after step 10).
Anyway, pulling the loop off is easy.
9) Using long socket extension and 12mm (I think?) socket, remove 4 long (hard to see) throttle body to manifold bolts.
Access is straight in from passenger side, right over the valve cover. Easy if you can find the bolt heads with your socket.
10) Pull the throttle body / manifold gasket out to keep it safe. Do not fold, spindle, or mutilate, as the saying goes.
11) Throttle body will still be attached to the backside coolant hose and throttle/cruise/transmission cables, but you can just pull it aside do a lot of tasks. Use your own judgement as to whether full removal is needed.

There, that wasn't so hard was it? That's the easy part if you are going deeper in, like fuel injectors, fuel filter, emissions valves, etc.

p.s. I got rid of the metal PHH pipe entirely, and ran a few feet of heater hose from the heater valve, all the way around the brake booster and into the PHH block nipple. FAR easier to work on. Again, now you can grab a handful of (not so Pesky) heater hose and pull it off or push it on. Might have been Kevin's idea, IIRC.
 
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Would you mind posting a photo or 3 of your monster liner job?
Did you apply by hand or spray? Primer 1st or bare?
Happy with the way it came out?
Been considering doing it.
 
I just replaced the bypass hose, its a lot of steps to pull the throttle body but none are difficult. Only issue I had was getting pliers on the original clap to reinstall it where the bypass hose connects to the block next to the PHH, a worm gear clamp would have made it much easier.
 
I got the TB off and the replacement hose on today. I am going to replace a smaller 1/4 inch piece that looked bad and I had already ordered a new gasket so once I pick those 2 up tomorrow I will get it back together hopefully. Thanks all for the help

Bam, I took some pics today of the bed liner. I'll get th posted up tomorrow with my thoughts. I am just on my phone now.
 
I used the monster liner DIY roll on kit. They send an abrasive pad that you use to scuff up the paint and then roll on the liner. The biggest thing is to buy some of that thin width painters tape that paint shops use to get the curved edges looking smooth. I also got the tintable kit and went to the local auto paint supply to get the correct factory match tint color. You can call monster liner and they can point you to a shop in your area. I also used the aluminum tape over the holes as mentioned in several threads on here. I got some clumps in places but overall i am very happy.
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I used the monster liner DIY roll on kit. They send an abrasive pad that you use to scuff up the paint and then roll on the liner. The biggest thing is to buy some of that thin width painters tape that paint shops use to get the curved edges looking smooth. I also got the tintable kit and went to the local auto paint supply to get the correct factory match tint color. You can call monster liner and they can point you to a shop in your area. I also used the aluminum tape over the holes as mentioned in several threads on here. I got some clumps in places but overall i am very happy. View attachment 1283454View attachment 1283455View attachment 1283456
I'm about to do the same color. How many ounces of toner did you add to the gallon of Monstaliner?
 
Nice job on your deflare and Monstaliner!
 
I think it's 8 Oz per gallon but check with monster liner. It says on the website I believe.
I am aware of Monstaliner says. I was asking exactly how much you used. Actually, they say 8-10 ounces of toner other than theirs.
 
BTW, this is the short throttle body front side hose that I called "straight" above. It's actually normally a bit "S" shaped from left to right, now that I look again.
Here is a couple of photos of my lengthened mod with a 360 deg. loop, which has to snake through the connectors and such. Marked in green tape.

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And my proposed 270 deg. loop, if the #2 bypass tube was bent straight up next to the engine hoist point. I'm holding it vertically, but it might be hard to see that.

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This would make it much easier to pull the throttle body aside without bothering to take the coolant hoses off, and easier to take the hoses off too, if needed. Doesn't interfere with anything, as far as I can tell.
 
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Kinda wonder why everyone thinks they need to replace that throttle body gasket all the time. It is a metal gasket with NO sealer on it. It does not seal any fluids, just prevents air leaking into the intake. We have reused them repeatedly with NO failures. John
 

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