BP-51 Post-Install Question/Concern...

[Markuson]

Need yall's input/Experience...

Just had my BP-51's installed and picked them up this evening.

Ride is SUPER HARSH on road... Way more so than stock. Firm is good. But this is harsh.

I already cranked down the compression... No help.

The problem:
-They seem to have added WAY too much preload.
-Fit guide says 0mm preload if like mine...(no bumper or winch).

What I got? 20mm of preload...which is only recommended with heavier diesel engine AND bumper AND winch.

So...
I'm 20mm preload too much putting me more than 3.5" lift in front.
I'm at 23" hub to fender in front...up from just barely over 19...and harsh as can be on-road. Haven't tried off-road yet as I just got it tonight.

**Question is...

**How involved is it if I ask them to crank that preload back to where it should be??
**-Do they have to disassemble the front end all over again?

I ask because I think they need to fix this...
I even circled in the guide before hand, showing where it says 0mm preload...
-But before I talk to them... I'd like to know how much I'm asking of them.
**They are good guys...and I know they did their best... Just think they screwed up, and I need to fix this.

This non-mechanic's mind wants to know... Thanks for any help!

 

[codyaustin5]

Sorry to hear that considering how smooth mine are. I actually adjusted mine last night up front to firm it up a little bit. Couldn't get to the rears though. I got 3" lift up front but not sure how Slee set it up. They would be the ones to call though for advice.

Front settings:
Comp- 5
Rebound - 8

From Slee was 4 and 7. I have the bar up front as well and 2722 springs.

I will be adjusting the rears as well similar to the front by one notch.

 

[Willy beamin]

Sorry to hear that. I'm sure you'll get it sorted out. With that said post up a pic dude.

 

[Markuson]

Sorry to hear that. I'm sure you'll get it sorted out. With that said post up a pic dude.

So does the front have to be disassembled again to adjust preload?

 

[sleeoffroad]

Markus is talking about the preload on the front spring, not shock adjustment. Take it back to the shop and have them fix it. They might be able to adjust on the truck. Otherwise they have to remove them to compress then adjust and put back. It would also need to be realigned.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Ps, might as well check your shock settings as well. If they just installed them as they come then it would not be right for a stock truck.

 

[Markuson]

Markus is talking about the preload on the front spring, not shock adjustment. Take it back to the shop and have them fix it. They might be able to adjust on the truck. Otherwise they have to remove them to compress then adjust and put back. It would also need to be realigned.

Ps, might as well check your shock settings as well. If they just installed them as they come then it would not be right for a stock truck.

Thanks for responding, Christo.
Ya, I did adjust the compression down to just 1 trying to compensate.

So with NO extra weight in front, would preload be 0mm like the fit kit suggests? or 5mm?
Kit guide says if Petrol and no accessories...0mm. But maybe that's a lighter V6?

Thanks for your help in acquiring the setup, by the way! Guess I should have driven to Colorado after all...

 

[sleeoffroad]

0mm or 5mm is just going to be different heights. I would start with 0mm as suggested. Doubt ARB thought about the V6 tryck

 

[Markuson]

0mm or 5mm is just going to be different heights. I would start with 0mm as suggested. Doubt ARB thought about the V6 tryck

OK. Pls disregard voicemail then.

Option 2... Quickly order a bumper/winch from you too...with 2nd battery in your sweet tray and maybe it would be close!

Can't afford those quite yet...but soon.

Thanks again, Christo!

 

[Markuson]

PS... I thought maybe I could adjust it myself, but unfortunately, the lock nut was left on the inner side...so it can't be accessed to allow turning for preload without removing the whole unit.

When it's fixed, I'll make sure to request that they leave the locknut accessible.

 

[arich]

You need to find a new shop!
If you want to attempt to take them out yourself jack up the truck and drop the two large bolts at the bottom of the spindle. Then unbolt the bottom of the shock and the 4 bolt at the top. Loosen the reservoir mounts and it should be able to slip out from below.
Take them too anyone with a good strut conpressor. It must have upper and lower forks to compress the spring. Once you take the tension off you can adjust the preload. I set my preload to 5mm. It is set at 20mm from the factory.
I bought this spanner wrench to make the job easier.
CBM-10922 Billet Shock Spanner Wrench/Adjuster-King Coil 2.5" X 2.5" FOX
I haven't tried it but I doubt there is enough room to adjust them after installed. I did make sure to leave the collar bolt accessible.

 

[Markuson]

OK. Down to 5mm and ride is great...

BUT!!! The stupid shop must have tried to force the preload ring to turn with a freaking HAMMER ...without releasing the load...because they COMPLETELY THRASHED the holes in the ring!! AAAAAAARGH!!

Check this out:
Here is a mostly normal adjustment hole on the right-front:

OK. Now HERE...... is what they left of the "round" hole on the left-front:

What.....

The.....

BLEEEEEEEP????

Kinda ticked off.

OK so then I see the wrench I had to buy brand new that they used...that was BRAND NEW before this.

When he handed it back to me, he said, "The end started come out...so we lock-toted it back in. So let it dry for 24 hours..."

Now I know why. They must have beat the living heck out of it with a hammer...and jacked up the hole...AND the wrench.

Apparently they did not use the curved end of the wrench at all... because that end has no scuffs or marks at all:

Now look at the end they used...and slammed with a hammer or something...

This was brand new before this job.

Notice how at the base of the peg...the red starts to slightly bulge upward...and the edge of the curved portion is bent down?

WHAT THE HECK???

They said NOTHING about the damage to the hole on the coil-over...

UPDATE: Thought the ride was OK until I drove next day. Still waaaay too stiff.

Also... Who knows what the other holes look like on the other side of the ring that I can't see???

NOT HAPPY.

 

[Desert Nomad]

I'd ask them to buy me a new set... Good chaps or not, I would be worried about them being damaged and leading to premature failure.

 

[9780LC]

Yeah, you have to find a new shop. I'd be really pissed off.

 

[arich]

I would guess they did not remove and adjust as you asked them to
Did they charge you for the adjustment?

 

[bjowett]

Welcome to wonderful world of aluminum bodied shocks w/ threaded preload and coil springs. FWIW, I've found even the most carefully adjusted units eventually receive damage in this area, unless they are removed from the vehicle and placed in a spring compressor.

 

[NLScooby]

A-holes! I'm sure they couldn't use the curved side of the wrench while the shocks were installed on the truck. This is being lazy - and now it should cost them! Minimally new rings and re-installation - or an entire new set!

 

[codyaustin5]

Holy crap! You are having some bad luck with this. If you need any pictures of mine let me know. The spanner wrench that comes with it is pretty darn easy to use. The rear you have to hold the shaft while you turn the adjustment.

 

[TexAZ]

In the future if you need to adjust the spring, you can take the tension off without taking the coilover off the truck. the tundra guys do it all the time. leave the top 4 bolts tight, remove the sway bar links, (after opening KDSS valves) mark the position of the adjusting cams on the lower control arm, then loosen the LCA bolts. do no remove, just loosen enough that the LCA can drop freely, taking the preload off the spring.
With the preload off, and a little liquid wrench, it shouldn't be difficult to turn the adjusting ring. for minor height adjustments, if you get the marks lined up right and torque everything down, you can get by without getting the alignment checked. given the price of tires, I chose to get it checked after making adjustments, just so that I know I won't be trashing new tires.

hope this helps in the future. i would definately be speaking with the manager/owner of the shop. they butchered the adjusting ring and wrench.
Rarely is there a need for hammering like that.

 

[Romer]

Glad I live near Christo